Kamakura's Great Buddha
cmr164
Registered Users Posts: 1,542 Major grins
The first shot is probably a stereotype but the in the others I let my imagination roam.
ISO 320 , f/11 , 1/500 , 23mm , 17-35 f/2.8L
ISO 320 , f/6.3 , 1/800 , 500mm , 500 f/4.0L IS
ISO 320 , f/9.0 , 1/1250 , 500mm
ISO 320 , f/9.0 , 1/1250 , 500mm
ISO 320 , f/11 , 1/500 , 32mm
ISO 640 , f/8.0 , 1/1000 , 500mm , 500 f/4.0L IS
There are more
ISO 320 , f/11 , 1/500 , 23mm , 17-35 f/2.8L
ISO 320 , f/6.3 , 1/800 , 500mm , 500 f/4.0L IS
ISO 320 , f/9.0 , 1/1250 , 500mm
ISO 320 , f/9.0 , 1/1250 , 500mm
ISO 320 , f/11 , 1/500 , 32mm
ISO 640 , f/8.0 , 1/1000 , 500mm , 500 f/4.0L IS
There are more
Charles Richmond IT & Security Consultant
Operating System Design, Drivers, Software
Villa Del Rio II, Talamban, Pit-os, Cebu, Ph
Operating System Design, Drivers, Software
Villa Del Rio II, Talamban, Pit-os, Cebu, Ph
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Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Operating System Design, Drivers, Software
Villa Del Rio II, Talamban, Pit-os, Cebu, Ph
Operating System Design, Drivers, Software
Villa Del Rio II, Talamban, Pit-os, Cebu, Ph
I think the second shot would be better cropped showing only one eye, instead of 1 1/2, again JMO
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Want to take a try at it? Or does this meet your request?
Operating System Design, Drivers, Software
Villa Del Rio II, Talamban, Pit-os, Cebu, Ph
As to post... It's hard to say with these low res versions. The thing that is going to make exquisite large prints here is good detail and just the right sharpening. You have high quality stuff to start with and I know you shoot raw. I also know that you know how to make the L curve steep in the right places and make sure you have good contrast. It looks like you've paid some attention to this, but these are good input and deserve the best from post.
As to sharpening, there is a technique of DM's that I've been liking more and more and which I think will work here. Here is the simplest version:
- LAB mode
- Duplicate layer
- USM, probably too much. You really want to be able to see the white halos.
- Duplicate the sharpened layer. Now you have three layers, original, and two oversharpened ones.
- RGB (or CMYK) mode. Don't flatten.
- Change the blending mode of the middle layer to "darken"
- Change the blending mode of the top layer to "lighten"
- Play independently with the opacity of the top two layers until it looks good at 100%
The beauty of this technique is that it gives you independent control over the light and dark sharpening halos. Usually things look oversharpened because of the light halos, so you'll want lower opacity on the top layer. But the dark halos tend to add drama without losing detail or being distracting.I said this was the simplest form of this technique. You can also independently sharpen each of the channels in seprate layers. You use independent USM parameters for the light and dark layers and for each channel. In short you can go nuts.
In your case, I think the simplest form that I outlined above combined with the right L curve (sharpen last) will give do justice to these images.
Very nice images CMR. Was it really necessary to use the 500mm lens - could you not have gotten these same shots with the 70-200 f2.8 L ? Or was it not possible to get that close with the 70-200 zoom?
Shooting landscapes with the 500mm suggests tripod territory to me - that thing is a lot to hand hold, that's for sure!
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
For the hands, I'd try steepeing the A&B LAB curves to make the flowers more saturated. You might want to set some anchor points in the hands themselves first as I think you have nailed this color and don't want anymore satuartion there.
Adrian
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