Colorado Skiing photographs
boulderNardo
Registered Users Posts: 180 Major grins
Was out skiing today (and every day for the past month ) with some friends and took some pictures with my 20D & 70-200 2.8L... Would appreciate some feedback and comments, I'm really trying to improve the quality of my photographs. I'm still having a little bit of trouble getting a dead-on focus on the skier, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
These have been post-processed & cropped in Lightroom:
These have been post-processed & cropped in Lightroom:
Canon 1D MkII, Canon 17-40 f/4L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8L, Canon 50 f/1.4, Canon 100 f/2
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
0
Comments
Couple things -- are you using AI Servo mode? You should be in those motion shots, especially with the skier coming directly at or away from you.
Also, your EXIF info shows you were shooting wide-open at F2.8. Is that correct? If so, I think you're asking for way too much AF accuracy in those motion shots. Try a wider DOF by stopping down to F8 or so. You'll probably need to boost your ISO to 400 to compensate, but such is life.
Cheers,
-joel
Link to my Smugmug site
joel, pics are actually taken in the Vail back country area today... tons of good snow, steep slopes, and huge cliff drops
That's correct, I'm using AI Servo, I pick the center AF point and keep that one centered on the skiers head/chest. Also correct that I've been shooting wide open at f/2.8 - I really want to get focus on the skier and totally blur the background out, and would rather not do a manual PP blurring of the background. I'm going back out tomorrow and I was even thinking of taking my 50mm f/1.4 and shooting at around f/1.8 to get even more background blur, but then I guess focus is going to be even more of an issue.
My worry and question is mostly, is it normal that my photos are not 100% on focus given the conditions and aperture, or am I just doing something fundamentally wrong? (i.e., I'm shooting off hand, no tripod, but ISO set to 200 I was able to shoot around 1/1000th shutter).
I'll try closing down the aperture to 5.6 tomorrow and bump the ISO to 400 (no problem there, the 20D can handle 400 pretty noise-free).
-bernardo
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
Good luck shooting tomorrow. Expected high temperature is 0F.
Cheers,
-joel
Link to my Smugmug site
Brett needs to smile more.
I've shot a lot of things going fast (and erratic) with a 20D, 30D, 1DMkII, I don't think it's the camera/lens combo unless it does this with stationary subjects too.
I understand these are cropped. What I suspect is the issue, is that your center focus point is not on your subject when you take the shot. That's real easy to do on fast moving targets. One of my pet peeves with Canon is that they won't make the active focus points stay lit while tracking your subject. The 1Dxx series does this and makes it MUCH easier to stay on target.
Others on this board have had similar issues, and swore up and down that their focus was on their subject. I suggested that they pull up their images in Canon's EX Browser software that comes with the cameras. It has a button that will allow the active focus point to be displayed on your image. That way you know for sure if that's an issue or not. If it is, then work on that harder, if it's not, then you've eliminated that from your problem solving process.
I'm guessing that's what's at play here.
I could be wrong...I was once before, but I've learned to live with her for 29 years so far
haha awesome, maggots are everywhere
kdog - I've seen amazingly crisp action shots made with a 20D/30D and similar lens setup. I've been messing around with it inside this evening, and it seems like I can get slightly sharper images with no motion, but the images are still not as razor sharp as some other images I've seen made with a similar setup. Wondering if it's my camera - I already sent the 70-200 lens in to Canon for repair a few months ago, I suspected front focusing issues and they did some fixes.
Anyway, tried again today - it was indeed freezing cold! We went north of Vail today out in the back country again, lots of jumping, here's some pics:
Again, please lots of C&C, feedback, whatever, just help me improve guys Some of the photographs shot at f/5.6 are significantly sharper than the ones shot at 2.8 (albeit still not perfect!).
-bernardo
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
I'm not really seeing any focus problems in these shots that you posted. Maybe you have others that didn't come out so well, and I'd probably blame those on the inconsistent focus of the 20D.
However, and I'm no expert, but I do feel that your shots could benefit from some post-processing. I spent about one minute on one of your images, adjusting levels and midpoint a bit, a touch of local contrast enhancement, and just a bit more sharpening. Let me know what you think.
Edited:
Your original:
Cheers,
-joel
Link to my Smugmug site
What a HUGE improvement, thanks so much! I still have a lot to learn about PP, I'm using Photoshop Lightroom and just got Scott Kelby's book to learn more about post processing ...
As for the focus problems ... I might be expecting too much from action shots I guess. These shots are, however, the sharpest of the series and like you said I left the less sharp ones out.
thanks for the comments!
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
Japan Maggots in the house :ivar
Those pics are sick!!!You guys are rippin that powder mate. Love it Would like to get a camera bag for my D80, and learn how to take decent shots first, and get some of us gettin resort powder and some slack/backcountry. Keep up the good work!
I have that same lens and f4 seems to work well for me when shooting sports. AI Servo as well always for action shots. Hope to get back up soon for some shots of my own. Thanks for sharing
Shane
Blogs:
www.imagesbyshane.blogspot.com
Canon 20d and 40d
Canon 50mm 1.4
Canon 85mm 1.8
Canon 70-200L IS 2.8
For skiing (& biking, climbing, hiking, etc.) I *highly* recommend a chest pack like the LowePro TopLoader 75AW ... your chest is the absolutely safest spot for the camera IMO - at least in my case, jumping off 50ft cliffs, at times I land too far back and smash my backpack...
Thanks for the good words, Shane!
I'll try shooting at f/4 more - I used to shoot at f/2.8 but just couldn't get a sharp shot, some of these shots were taken at f/5.6 and are much sharper, but I'd really like to have more background blur. Def shooting in AI Servo all the time, however I wonder, do you and other action sports photographer always shoot in "Continous" mode or single frame mode? I wonder (and I'm goin to try on my next shoot) whether I can shoot in single frame, watching the skier more, trying to predict the best timing for the best shot rather than relying on getting one lucky shot out of 20 burst shots.
I did some PP myself in Lightroom, trying to reproduce your PP'ed image. How does this look?
-bernardo
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
Looks better than mine in fact. :uhoh You learn fast, grasshopper. Now get to work on the rest of them. :whip
Next time I'm out that way, I want to go skiing with you guys. I'll get a shot of you jumping off a 50' cliff with your toploader on.
Cheers,
-joel
Link to my Smugmug site
Haha thanks so much!! I was afraid I might have blown the highlights compared to yours... Scott Kelby's Lightroom book is good learning material though
That's a deal! Didn't quite do 50ft, but you get my point
I definitely wouldn't worry about my camera in the toploader jumping that big... In any case, Pm me whenever you head out here, you're most welcome to join us for some back country skiing fun!
... AND you can probably sell the shot to LowePro as advertisement for the Toploader
-bernardo
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
Funny thing is when I lived in SC (single/no kids...makes a difference) I flew all over skiing. Moved to Denver 8 years ago and haven't been skiing once. My son is turning out to be a natural at it. Damn expensive sport...that is for sure.
Shane
Blogs:
www.imagesbyshane.blogspot.com
Canon 20d and 40d
Canon 50mm 1.4
Canon 85mm 1.8
Canon 70-200L IS 2.8
-bernardo
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
www.fitephotography.com
Canon 1D MkIIN, Canon 50D, Canon 300 f/2.8L, Canon 70-200 f/2.8L, Canon 24-70 f/2.8L, Canon 85 f/1.8, Canon 1.4 Extender,
Canon 580 & 420 Flash, Pocket Wizards,
Alien Bee 800, Other misc stuff
hey, thanks for the idea!
question is ... the dioptic adjustment shouldn't affect focus in AF mode. Yes, when shooting in Manual Focus it would make a difference, but the stock viewfinder in a 20D is just not good enough to shoot MF anyway. So I don't see how the dioptic adjustment could affect AF ... if the AF system locks on the subject, the subject should be in focus, even though I might perceive it as slightly OOF in the viewfinder. But that's not been my issue as far as I can tell, the pictures look OOF on my computer!
maybe I'm totally missing something?
thanks for the thought!
-bernardo
Bogen 055XPROB
Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS, FreeLite A, Skyports, 3x Vivitar 285HV
I am still in p&s world with my G7 so I am no help to you, other than to say kepp on shooting and work on it.
On another topic from the focus thing, I prefer images where you see more background than the crops you have. It gives a better perspective of the whole line, you rarely see a tight crop in magazines. The best images show how truely difficult the line is. Also things can be overdone in pshop, beyond what seems natural. Just a few things from a very avid viewer of ski porn