Review: MaxMax IR-Only Conversion of Canon 20D
Scott_Quier
Registered Users Posts: 6,524 Major grins
If this isn't in the right forum, please move it. I thought it would relate best to other IR photogs....
The following is a quick review of the MaxMax (www.maxmax.com) 830nm IR conversion of a Canon 20D camera.
Background: Ever since the Glacier Shootout I've been wanting an IR converted camera. Fellow DGrinner, aktse (April), let me use her converted Canon XT (715nm) for an entire day. I had such a great time with it that I was instantly hooked!
Some short time ago I found myself with three cameras and I only needed two for the work I do. Time to get the third one converted! First I sent the 20D to Canon to get the focus calibrated as I wanted to make sure that all was working to specification before I sent it to MaxMax. When it came back I tested that the focus had, indeed, been corrected. All was good so I shipped it off to MaxMax with the required note outlining that I wanted the 830nm conversion. My decision for this (vs. the 715nm conversion, which is what April had) was based on this statement on the MaxMax website
Emphasis is mine.
What I didn't realize at the time is what, exactly, an evenly exposed RGB channel would mean (and, don't get me wrong, I love the results!).
Anyway, here's the histogram (from ACR 4.3.1) showing the exposure RGB curves before and after only setting a custom white balance.
These are the resulting images (before any PP has been done):
The interesting thing is that, no matter where you click with your ACR White Balance Tool, the above is the result you get (at least within less than 0.1% difference per channel).
Some things I learned as a result of all this:
The following are a just a couple of shots I got yesterday:
1.
2.
3.
4. Some green and yellow plants, up close, just to show that these really are IR photos
As you can see, we had mostly clear skies so no dramatic dark skies with huge white clouds :cry but it was still a lot of fun.
Comments, critic, and corrections are welcomed and encouraged.
The following is a quick review of the MaxMax (www.maxmax.com) 830nm IR conversion of a Canon 20D camera.
Background: Ever since the Glacier Shootout I've been wanting an IR converted camera. Fellow DGrinner, aktse (April), let me use her converted Canon XT (715nm) for an entire day. I had such a great time with it that I was instantly hooked!
Some short time ago I found myself with three cameras and I only needed two for the work I do. Time to get the third one converted! First I sent the 20D to Canon to get the focus calibrated as I wanted to make sure that all was working to specification before I sent it to MaxMax. When it came back I tested that the focus had, indeed, been corrected. All was good so I shipped it off to MaxMax with the required note outlining that I wanted the 830nm conversion. My decision for this (vs. the 715nm conversion, which is what April had) was based on this statement on the MaxMax website
The advantage of a 830nm filter is that the red, green and blue channels are more evenly exposed than at 715nm. ... When you more evenly expose the RGB channels, the camera can resolve better. Also, the infrared effect is more dramatic at 830nm versus 715nm - skies are darker and clouds whiter.
Emphasis is mine.
What I didn't realize at the time is what, exactly, an evenly exposed RGB channel would mean (and, don't get me wrong, I love the results!).
Anyway, here's the histogram (from ACR 4.3.1) showing the exposure RGB curves before and after only setting a custom white balance.
These are the resulting images (before any PP has been done):
The interesting thing is that, no matter where you click with your ACR White Balance Tool, the above is the result you get (at least within less than 0.1% difference per channel).
Some things I learned as a result of all this:
- What you see may not be what your sensor sees. I was shooting in what I thought was pretty dim light, near sunset. But, the IR sensitive sensor saw a lot more light that I would have guessed.
- The 830nm conversion results in almost exactly a 2-stop impact on exposure as compared to a visible light exposure. That value changes a bit, depending on what you are shooting, grass and other green stuff reflects more IR than does, for example, dirt or portions of the sky.
- I found shooting manual was the easiest way to get the right exposure. Initial set up was to set aperture/shutter combination such that you would get about +1 2/3 "over-exposed". Take the shot. Check the histogram and find that the shot was usually somewhere between "good" and 1 stop under-exposed. Adjust exposure and shoot again. Usually, my second shot would be within 1/3 stop of being very good.
- Unless I'm missing something in my conversion process (and the odds are better than even that I am ), if you want any chance at false colors in your IR photos, you want something other than the 830nm conversion.
- When MaxMax does the conversion, they remove the ICF/AA filter(s). The AA filter is something the manufacturer puts in the light path to the sensor to actually blur the photo. Why do camera manufacturers do this? Because, without it, when a photographer shoots something with lots of parallel lines, they will more likely get unsightly moiré patterns in their photos. The AA filter reduces, but does not eliminate, the incidence of these patterns. Net result, when shooting anything not containing a series of parellel lines, the potential for a very sharp photo is greatly enhanced and your need for sharpening during post processing is greatly reduced.
The following are a just a couple of shots I got yesterday:
1.
2.
3.
4. Some green and yellow plants, up close, just to show that these really are IR photos
As you can see, we had mostly clear skies so no dramatic dark skies with huge white clouds :cry but it was still a lot of fun.
Comments, critic, and corrections are welcomed and encouraged.
Scott
My Photos
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:smo
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and wondered who might have the other filter, and you do now
Thanks for the examples and information.
Now there will be no stopping you with IR shots.
Have fun ... Skippy
.
Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"
ALBUM http://ozzieskip.smugmug.com/
:skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin
This looks neat, I will be looking forward to seeing your shots and progression.
I have been thinking about a solid B&W Mod, but hate to give up the
false color.
Thanks for sharing.
Craig
Burleson, Texas
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I'm on it
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
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http://www.maxmax.com/IRCameraConversions.htm Towards the bottom of the page. Agreed, finding info on there takes a little patience.
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Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I looked that page over and over. Terrible design. You'd think they'd want to make a sale!
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Hey Scott - now that you're hooked on daylight, have fun with flashes - it creates a whole new arena for infrared!
I was shooting an event that was taking place in the Batcave (not really, but it was just as dark as the Batcave) and lit by incandescent lights. I knew it was waaay too dark for my ISO800 and F2.8 so I whipped out the F717 and Bazingo - nice shutter speeds and great focus.
- Mike
IR Modified Sony F717
http://2H2OPhoto.smugmug.com
Howdy Scott,
That is totally unacceptable to have a new Modded camera an not use it.
Just go ahead and box it up and send it to Skippy to practice with and she'll bring it with her when she comes to the States in the Fall!!!
Come on Scott get out there and shoot something:D
Craig
Burleson, Texas
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
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Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
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