Options
Outdoor Flash Portrait Photography - too much light!
Hi All:
I have a question about outdoor use of flash for portraits. Here is my dilemma:
I am going to be shooting some portraits for a friend's wedding. The wedding is going to be outdoors, and the portrait session is probably going to be at around noon - 1pm (probably the worst time of day for lighting - harsh light & shadows on the face). Thus, I am planning on using flash to fill in the shadows. However, my camera as far as I know will only let me sync flash with up to 1/250th shutter speed, which I think might be a problem. I'd like to be able to use a wide aperture to get a nice OOF background but then with a 1/250th shutter I think I will have way too much light.
I am thinking my solutions would be possibly as follows:
1. Use a ND filter - I am concerned about how it will affect image quality.
2. Use a longer telephoto lens to account for some of the background issues with having to stop down
3. High-speed sync with flash on-camera with a diffuser (Gary Fong or Sto-fen)?
I have reviewed the manual for my camera (Canon 40D) and I'm not sure I have high-speed sync capability. I will be triggering the flash via a Morris radio trigger but I do have a PC terminal and sync cable that I can use. Either way I don't think I can use high-speed sync unless I put the flash (Canon 430EX) on the hotshoe and set it manually...
I welcome any suggestions that you all might have. Thanks!
I have a question about outdoor use of flash for portraits. Here is my dilemma:
I am going to be shooting some portraits for a friend's wedding. The wedding is going to be outdoors, and the portrait session is probably going to be at around noon - 1pm (probably the worst time of day for lighting - harsh light & shadows on the face). Thus, I am planning on using flash to fill in the shadows. However, my camera as far as I know will only let me sync flash with up to 1/250th shutter speed, which I think might be a problem. I'd like to be able to use a wide aperture to get a nice OOF background but then with a 1/250th shutter I think I will have way too much light.
I am thinking my solutions would be possibly as follows:
1. Use a ND filter - I am concerned about how it will affect image quality.
2. Use a longer telephoto lens to account for some of the background issues with having to stop down
3. High-speed sync with flash on-camera with a diffuser (Gary Fong or Sto-fen)?
I have reviewed the manual for my camera (Canon 40D) and I'm not sure I have high-speed sync capability. I will be triggering the flash via a Morris radio trigger but I do have a PC terminal and sync cable that I can use. Either way I don't think I can use high-speed sync unless I put the flash (Canon 430EX) on the hotshoe and set it manually...
I welcome any suggestions that you all might have. Thanks!
0
Comments
The whole shutter speed thing:
Shutter speed has nothing to do w/ your strobe. Aperture controls your strobe.
Shutter speed = Ambient light control (everything not lit by the strobe) EDIT-Beyond sync speed that is.
Aperture = Strobe light control (Everything lit by the strobe)
You can fine tune your strobe exposure w/ e/v steps. But you need to have a practical (not just head smarts) knowledge of how exposure and your camera work regarding ambient and strobe light before you tackle this IMHO.
I think your best bet in a dynamic situation like this is let the camera do the work for you, leave the strobe on camera and let the ttl do the heavy lifting. When you trigger via radio or PC cord, you loose ttl functionality. And ttl is definitely your friend int his situation.
Go out and shoot some things around 1:00 w/ your camera set up to ttl and see what the results are. I think you'll find that you don't need to agonize over this as much as you are.
I'm a big fan of the Lightsphere. It's a great tool for on camera flash shooting and does a great job eating up enough light to keep the flash looking like a fill light instead of a full blown speed light 10' away. Gary lost my trust on the whale tail though. That thing just looks freaking ridiculous!
To be more specific to your questions:
1. I would NOT use an ND filter to shoot a wedding. Light is your friend.
2. You should have a telephoto if your going to shoot a wedding anyway
3. You don't need to do this. There are thousands of wedding photographers out there that have created nothing short of stunning results and allot of them have never even considered high speed strobe sync.
-Jon
VI
For off camera flash, you can use High Speed Synch with a 40D, with an EOS system speedlite like the 430ex or the 580ex, triggered by an ST-E2 out of doors, if you are careful to make sure the ST-E2 faces the receiving lens on the the speedlites and within 20 feet or so - even out of doors in the shade.
But with studio strobes, you should not have the ability to use High Speed Synch since that capability is built into the speedlites, not the camera.
If you MUST shoot in full sunlight, a scrim of somesort will be a great assett - even a white muslin sheet overhead might help.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Jon: I think you're right - I am probably over-thinking this. I have tried using the 430EX on-camera as fill flash a few times but haven't had enough experience with off-camera flash to have that confidence level yet...it sounds though like I may be OK just leaving the 430EX on-camera.
I'm currently doing the Strobist lighting 102 exercises to get familiarity with the capabilities of my strobes and how cool they look when moved off camera; those exercises are responsible for my original post -- they got me thinking too much about it I guess. Some of my results are posted here.
If I can't get the shots out in the sun there is a pavilion that I can use, worst case scenario, to shoot under. They may have a tent set up also, but I will look into getting a sheet / scrim that we can set up. Thanks for the great idea.
Anyhow, I will keep practicing. Thanks for all of the input...you guys are awesome!
I'm big on off camera strobes, but not in this environment
DH still has a good blog, but he's now a career blogger. His older stuff was written out of passion, not profit.
Shooting weddings can be stressful. One way to help, is to set up your lights and then appoint the bride's maid or the best man to round folks up and have them herd the family members to you for their photos with the bride and groom. That way you are not having to move your lights and you already know what exposures are working for you. Chasing family members will quickly drive you crazy.
Jon's comment about the ease of a Fong diffuser on a camera mounted bracket speak from lots of experience too. ETTL is very handy in this scenario also.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Well if you shoot enough weddings you'll find out what you want and what you get aren't always going to sync together. Some times it is what it is. I'd suggest really trying to shoot more pics with the aid of a tent or tree for shade other wise your contrast range is gonna be all over the place.
This couple I shot in a back yard wedding wanted to run over the Melbourne causeway for some pics with the water in the background and blah, blah, blah. Sounds great right well that's what I was thinking before I arrived at their house day of wedding. Wonderful colors, blue sky water and the worst contrast range you could ever imagine since they were both in white and very dark skinned and there wasn't a cloud over Florida that was trying to help me out.
Some shots taken in the back yard under the tent were better but even with Fuji NPS shot at 125 I was still at an f8-f11 just to try to balance against the background.
It is what it is sometimes. Or you could also pray your 40D goes down to an iso of 25.
And I get deeper and deeper
The more I see the more I fall no place to hide
You better take the call I get deeper and deeper...The Fixx
unless you're a diehard veteran (which I'm not) it can be really hard to set up all your lights and know where the action is going to be. I shot one wedding with all my pocket wizards set up all over the place with the best views et cetera.
When it came time to take all the shots. The entire bridal party, wanted their pictures taken at different places. Of course, none of those places were where I had pocket wizards set up.
so I just took the shots with my Gary Fong on camera. While I was happy with the results. It just goes to show that you never know what's going to happen during a wedding.
just make sure you plan for the worst, and you'll be in great shape.
Good luck shooting your first wedding.
-- Jon
You're worried about a sync of just 1/250.....I have med. format cams that sync aat 1/30 and 1/60 and I have done tons of outdoor weddings...coming from film ...i suppose makes this a little easier to consider........
Do not try to get fancy....shoot with flash off camera on a bracket.....if using studio strobes make sure the stands are weighted in case of a sudden breeze...don't want strobes and stands to come tumblin' down......
Since we are in a digital age and you can create OOF in PS...suning one of the various BLUR tools.....then do your background that way....concern your self with the focus of your subject and if need be do a gaussian blur to get rid of that crisp background.......
Go out an practice shooting around the wedding time this week and keep practicing upto the wedding.....practice can only help....as Vincent Verace said..."Practice at Practicing".......I would suggest using a light meter (handneld)...but that is me again coming from the film era and having to use one for proper flash exposures....now I would not be with out one, even with histograms and all.........
Pray for clouds..solid overcast day for that nice even lighting from the BIG SOFTBOX IN THE SKY........:D
Sometimes it kinda like trying to herd cats. isn't it, Jon?:D
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
I guess I'm lucky on this shoot as I've spoken with the bride extensively and she has told me that she doesn't expect me to shoot the whole wedding -- she only wants portraits of herself and her husband and also the two of them with their family. Thus I am going to spend all of my effort getting them the best portraits I can get.
After that, being a photographer, of course I'm going to take pictures of every freakin' other thing at the wedding I can, but without the pressure to get every single important shot (I'm still going to try to get them all). I'm not making any money, just doing it for a friend. I am thrilled and honored to do it for her.
I ordered an ST-E2 today which should give me the ability to use the 430 off camera with high-speed sync, which I think will give me the best results. I can't wait to see what those Radiopoppers are going to do...
I will take all that I've learned here and apply it to the best of my ability. Thank you all!
If you can, scout the location before hand and take a few pics so you'll know what your working with and ALSO find out where all of the tables, tents, DJ, cake, present table, sign in table and chairs are going to be so you'll know where you're going to be shooting will be clear and you can set your lights up before the ceremony, test it all with a stand in person then so you can grab the couple and familiy afterwards shoot them and let them get back to having fun quicker.
And I get deeper and deeper
The more I see the more I fall no place to hide
You better take the call I get deeper and deeper...The Fixx