Panoramic Gear suggestions
Shane422
Registered Users Posts: 460 Major grins
After seeing a gorgeous pano by Andy from Yosemite, I've got the bug to get the gear to do something similar on my trip to Yosemite in May. Andy suggested the great gear at Really Right Stuff, but since this isn't something I plan on doing a lot, I don't quite have a budget that can handle the RRS equipment.
So does anyone have experience using these panoramic tripod heads, or any other that are priced in this range?
Panosaurus ($75)
Nodal Ninja ($149)
So does anyone have experience using these panoramic tripod heads, or any other that are priced in this range?
Panosaurus ($75)
Nodal Ninja ($149)
0
Comments
For an image example see:
http://dbdimages.smugmug.com/photos/235938389-O.jpg
Some of the very closest foreground rocks are not in focus, but most are and they show no artifacts. This image was stitched from 26 images shot on a tripod w/o special panoramic mounts.
Dale B. Dalrymple
...with apology to Archimedies
I looked at several of your Panos and they are very nice. So is your technique just to level the tripod, then pan with the tripod head and overlap?
Vertical works too:
http://dbdimages.smugmug.com/photos/122778000_dUbmy-X3-1.jpg
What I really want to suggest is that you start with minimal equipment and determine how well shooting panoramas is working for you and your subjects. Then decide how much you want or need to invest for what you wish to achieve. Don't wait until you buy a lot of equipment or go on an expensive trip to experiment. Start with your least distorting lenses. Avoid the widest angle lens settings and close objects at first.
Dale B. Dalrymple
http://dbdimages.com
...with apology to Archimedies
I also don't believe that it is necessary for single string panoramas in which the subject isn't up close to the camera. Where the Panosaurus and other Pano aids come in handy is when your subject or subjects are close to the camera (like indoor shooting) or when you desire to shoot multi-string panos.
I can hold a camera level enough and swivel around my hips smoothly enough to be able to shoot a short single-string pano hand-held. However, this is only in a dire emergency. I prefer to use a tripod or monopod whenever possible. I find that the stitching capability of Photoshop CS3 is just fine for my stitching needs.
One really good way to shoot a pano is to shoot it with the camera in the portrait position. That way you can use a longer focal length lens and have the same top to bottom angle of view as you would have with a much wider lens. However the longer focal length lens gives a nicer effect. As an example, a 24mm lens in portrait mode will give you roughly the same top to bottom angle of view as a 16mm lens in landscape configuration. Of course, the coverage right to left is limited only by the number of images you stitch together. It is also easier to stitch a pano using a longer focal length lens than it is to stitch one using a very wide angle lens because of less distortion.
It is, of course, easier to use any camera in the portrait position on a tripod (at any time - not just when shooting panos) if you use an "L" bracket. Many of the major tripod head manufacturers have L brackets in their inventory, including Manfrotto, Kirk, RRS, Arca and Giottos. The brackets and heads are not all interchangeable. As an example, I had to modify a RRS L bracket to use it on my supposedly Arca compatible Giottos head.
Great comparison between pano and wide angle shot:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1018&message=17572474
Multi string pano examples:
http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/index.html
A final comment, IMO; esthetically it is nice when you can "anchor" each end of your pano with a distinctive object, like mountains, buildings, etc.
So dbd, if you want to sell off either of your heads, let me know. Otherwise I may start talking to a buddy who has a machine shop about building me something.
Here was a pano I took from turn 1 at the Indy 500 last year. It was about 10 pics stitched in Photoshop. So I do have a bit of experience to lean on.
I really like your racing image. Here are some links to nodal point information that might interest you:
http://www.path.unimelb.edu.au/~bernardk/tutorials/360/index.html
http://doug.kerr.home.att.net/pumpkin/Pivot_Point.pdf
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=16638706
http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/techtutorials/technotes/nodalptalign-tn.html
Best of luck on your future panos. IMO panos are a really exciting way to photograph!
http://www.chrislaudermilkphoto.com/
You can trade off time and money. RRS BH-40 at $300 and up and $75 for the leveling mount can be replaced by a 3-way panoramoic head for $125 and a $15 level. The downside, you need to level the tripod and then level the camera and more bulk from the handles on the head. The upside, $235, a larger level that is easier to read accurately and in low light and long convenient handles on the head to position the camera with. When I shoot 20 or more images for one panorama and perhaps more than one panorama from a single tripod setup, the accuracy gained and pointing convenience means more to me than the setup time. And I often shoot where there is nobody to show expensive gear off to. YMMV!
Dale B. Dalrymple
http://dbdimages.com
...with apology to Archimedies
A lot of us are RRS customers and I'll say this, their gear is top notch and works
very well together. For example; the L brackets are marked with a center line. Same
with the ball head and the pano gear. Makes setup a piece of cake. You still need to
get the nodal point set but that's really about it.
Hope that helps.
I'm planning on building myself a pano head in a month or two.
awesome.
add anything to the OP's original request.
Apologies for taking the thread off topic.
This is a 360 degree pano inside a 2metre wide chamber...
http://www.hyperchamber.com/virtual_chamber_tour/
..using a cheap tripod and a film camera.
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Ian: I'll definitely post a minireview of the Panosaurus after I spend a bit of time with it.
Thank you!
Ian