DIY Flash Diffusion Panel

TravisTravis Registered Users Posts: 1,472 Major grins
edited April 6, 2008 in Technique
Seeing that most of the time I'm shooting without assistance, I built a couple of couple of standalone diffussion panels. Granted, I probably could have purchased a light stand, panel holder, and panels but where's the fun in that?

So here is what I decided that I needed in a setup...
1. Versatile - I must be able to change panel size, type (diffusion or bounce), and height.
2. Stable - Since these are meant to be used outside, I need to be able to anchor them so the wind won't blow them over
3. Storable - Must be able to break them down for transport/storage while also being easy to quickly setup
4. Cost effective - Most be significantly cheaper than purchasing stands, etc.

After playing around with a few ideas, I finally settled on a plan. Here's the shopping list for 1 stand/panel combo.

Hardware Store
(2) 3 inch 5/8 carraige bolts
(2) 5/8" wingnuts
(2) 5/8" washers
(8) 5/8" nuts
(3) 10 foot 1-1/4" pvc pipes
(1) 10 foot 3/4" pvc pipe
(6) 1-1/4" pvc T-connecters
(4) 3/4" 90 degree elbows
(4) Screw-in eye hooks

Fabric Store
(1) yard of rip-stop nylon
(1) yard of heavy 1-1/2" elastic

Tools
Drill with 5/8" bit
Hacksaw
Sewing machine and hopefully someone that knows how to use it.:thumb

So here is the basic diagram. Please excuse the scribbling but I'm tablet writing challenged.

275574509_7zudc-XL.jpg

To make the stand:
1. Cut (2) 1-1/4" pvc pipes into 1', 2', and 6' sections (these will be the vertical sections)
2. Cut (1) 1-1/4" pvc pipe into 2', 2', 1',1',1', and 1' sections (these will be the crossbars and feet)
3. On the 6' and 2' vertical pipes, drill 5/8" holes through the pipes every 12 inches. It helps to tape the pipes together to keep them from twisting and maintain alignment between the pipes.
4. Assemble connecting the pipes using the T-connectors. The 2' sections are the crossbars. The 1' sections will make the feet.
5. On the bottom crossbar, screw in 4 eye-hooks. These will be used to tie to sandbags (or detergent bottles filled with sand) to stabilize the stand on windy days.

To make the panel frame:
1. Cut the 3/4" pvc into 3', 3', 2' and 2' sections.
2. On the 3' sections, drill a 5/8" hole at the midpoint.
3. Connect the frame with the 90 degree elbows
4. Inset the carraige bolts from the inside out. Place 3 - 4 nuts and a washer on each bolt to act as spacers.
5. Determine how high you want the panel and slide the bolts through the holes in the stand securing them with the wing nuts.

To make the panel:
1. Cut the panel 38" by 26".
2. Fold over the sides and sew the hem
3. Cut the elastic into 5' pieces.
4. Sew the elastic diagonally across each corner
5. Slip the elastic corners over the frame to hold in place.

Using the panel:
1. To use it as a shoot thru diffuser, mount you strobe on a light stand behing the panel. Adjust angle of panel and strobe to get right direction.
2. In place of ripstop fabric, you can use white foamcore or a silver fabric or dashboard cover for reflected fill.

I made 2 of these on a Saturday morning before most people in my neighborhood were even awake. Here are a few shots of one (minus the mid section so it fit in my living room).

275546891_X6aFP-L.jpg

275546885_xP5jP-L.jpg

Closeup of elastic corner...
275546902_PWHru-L.jpg

View from the back..
275546907_f7GZj-L.jpg

Closeup of wingnut attachment
275546911_SYPCG-L.jpg

I hope you DIY-types out there find this useful.

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,129 moderator
    edited April 6, 2008
    Very nice Travis. thumb.gif

    The tilt feature is especially useful.

    I do wonder if a slight modification/addition would allow you to mount a slaved speedlight without needing a seperate stand?
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited April 6, 2008
    You could even make a mount that attaches to the tilting framework - and put in two cold shoes so that you could use two flashes instead of just one! Peanut slaves could be used to trigger a pair of 383s or 285HVs.

    If 1.5 or 2 in tubing were used for the tilting frame - you could use a second diffusion panel on the back side for even greater diffusion of the two flashes also. Or a large CTO gel
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • TravisTravis Registered Users Posts: 1,472 Major grins
    edited April 6, 2008
    Great ideas on mounting the flash(s) to the panel. I need to play with it some more. Of course, I need to get my flashes back from repair so I use them! headscratch.gif

    What I like about the setup is that it is flexible. If you need bigger panels, you just need to switch out the cross bar. I've also been thinking about making a back for the panel to turn it in to a softbox.
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