Tools of the trade.
EphTwoEight
Registered Users Posts: 552 Major grins
Was asked to help Photograph a building. Its a 300' long building on only 80 yards or so to the freeways fence, with my 10-20mm it barley covered it all.
So I went home and got my lift. Parked on the freeway and got a better shot.
Then a State guy pulled up and wondered what was going on.
We got the building, but that Sigma lens sucks. :dunno
So I went home and got my lift. Parked on the freeway and got a better shot.
Then a State guy pulled up and wondered what was going on.
We got the building, but that Sigma lens sucks. :dunno
0
Comments
Awwww ya should have done a PANO, you would have fitted it in.
You had a nice sky for your background.
Least ya didn't get arrested for trying .... Skippy
.
Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"
ALBUM http://ozzieskip.smugmug.com/
:skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin
True, I should of tried a pano, but I rarely get them to turn out right.
Any suggestions? Would 35 or 50mm be the way to go? Set the camera to manual or what?
thanks
Manual Aperture, Shutter speed, and white balance
Overlap about 30% from one frame to the next
No circular polorizer
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
Follow me on Instagram! @hankschlessphoto
Nikon D90, 85mm f/1.8, 18-70mm f/3.5, 70-300mm f/4.5, Nikon SB-800, MX-600 tripod
The signs on the very ends are blurred! Thats where I wonder if the spendy Nikkor 12-24 would be worth its money?
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
Tripod - Only if you have stuff in the very near foreground. That's when you need to pivot your camera about the lens nodal point, etc.
For more distant subjects, you can get'er done hand held - though I would use a tripod 'cause I'm that sort of anal engineer
From the center would get you a balanced shot. I would also, time permitting, try it from one end or the other just to see what the change in perspective would offer up - it would be an opportunity for some creative expression.
BTW - I'm not a pano expert. I've done it a couple of times and I've stayed at a H.... (we'll just leave it at that:D)
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
Not sure.
But manual exposure, overlap by around 25% or so depending on the number
of vertical reference points and "confusion". By confusion, I mean things like
trees or clouds that might be hard to stitch back together. In the later, more
toward 30% is better.
The lens you use will depend on how far away you are from the subject and
how much detail you want. I'm guessing around 50mm or maybe something
in the 16-35 ish range would work. I would suggest that your frame include
some sky and maybe 1/2 the amount of road you're showing now just so
you're emphasizing more of the building.
Using the lift is a great way to gain perspective. Nicely done.
Thanks, I have a 50mm 1.8 that takes some sharp images. Also a 17-50 2.8. But the distortion of that 10-20 is frustrating.
Any recommendation on software for the stitch? I have that Canon version, and liked Double Takes. Is there another I should check out? (for Mac)
with similar results. CS3 is better than pano factory which is better than the
Canon stuff.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile