I hate my flash!

sanford tullissanford tullis Registered Users Posts: 63 Big grins
edited May 4, 2008 in Sports
I try to blur the tires on my racing pictures, but when I have to shoot my flash, I can't blur them. I was experimenting here and shot this one @1/30th of a second (on a race car running around 90 or so!) can anyone give me any ideas on how to blur the tire w/flash.

285882559_peaEv-M.jpg

Thanks
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Comments

  • donekdonek Registered Users Posts: 655 Major grins
    edited April 28, 2008
    I try to blur the tires on my racing pictures, but when I have to shoot my flash, I can't blur them. I was experimenting here and shot this one @1/30th of a second (on a race car running around 90 or so!) can anyone give me any ideas on how to blur the tire w/flash.

    285882559_peaEv-M.jpg

    Thanks

    Depending on your flash, you may be able to set it up to function like a strobe. I believe on the Nikon SB-800 it's called repeat mode. Basically the flash fires multiple times, instead of just once. This generates a blurred effect as a result of multiple fires. You're unlikely to get the exact result you'd get in daylight, but you'll come as close as possible with the flash.
    Sean Martin
    www.seanmartinphoto.com

    __________________________________________________
    it's not the size of the lens that matters... It's how you focus it.

    aaaaa.... who am I kidding!

    whoever dies with the biggest coolest piece of glass, wins!
  • SloYerRollSloYerRoll Registered Users Posts: 2,788 Major grins
    edited April 28, 2008
    any ideas on how to blur the tire w/flash.
    When you use your flash, your effectively creating a shutter speed for however long the strobes pulse is. A strobe pulse can be faster than 1/10,000 at lower powers. So even if you have a shutter speed of 5 seconds, the strobe will still freeze the action no matter how slow the shutter speed.

    The only way you can work around this is to increase your strobe power output. When a strobe fires, it puts out a pulse of electricity for a certain duration of time. When you increase the power on the strobe, the same amount of electricity is used, but the pulse when the circuit is closed is longer.

    So you could max out your strobe power and increase your aperture and you should see some burring. I don't think you'll get the blurring your trying to get though.

    Clear as mud?
  • PineapplePhotoPineapplePhoto Registered Users Posts: 474 Major grins
    edited April 28, 2008
    Rear Curtain Sync?
    Body: Canon 1D Mark II N | Canon 30D w/BG-E2 Flash: Canon 580EX II | Quantum T4d | Strobes & Monolights
    Glass: Sigma 70-200 f2.8 | Sigma 20 f1.8 | Canon 28-135 f3.5-5.6 IS USM
  • SloYerRollSloYerRoll Registered Users Posts: 2,788 Major grins
    edited April 28, 2008
    Rear Curtain Sync?
    Still freezes the white in the tires. You'll just see a bit more ghosting.
  • donekdonek Registered Users Posts: 655 Major grins
    edited April 29, 2008
    Took me a few minutes to find it, but I played around with the repeat function on my flash about 2 years ago. The image below is the result of that experiment.
    286834307_pVMNy-L.jpg

    You can easily see a motion blur effect as a result of the flash firing multiple times during one exposure. The SB-800 can be set to fire between 1 and 100 times per second (1 to 100 HZ). I checked my D200 manual as it has a built in flash. It does not indicate a repeat function, but does discuss a slow sync function for preserving backgrounds (that might work). It looks like you're using a Canon Rebel, but I'm not sure if you are using the on camera flash or not. The best thing to do would be to read your flash and camera manual to find out if the two functions I've mentioned are available. Older flash units can typically be found on e-bay for about 100 dollars. Many of them may have these functions although require being used in a manual mode with a DSLR such as your rebel.
    Sean Martin
    www.seanmartinphoto.com

    __________________________________________________
    it's not the size of the lens that matters... It's how you focus it.

    aaaaa.... who am I kidding!

    whoever dies with the biggest coolest piece of glass, wins!
  • i_worship_the_Kingi_worship_the_King Registered Users Posts: 548 Major grins
    edited April 29, 2008
    Via Nikon Website
    For the SB-600 here's the durations:
    • 1/900th sec. at M 1/1 (full) output
    • 1/1600 sec. at M 1/2 output
    • 1/3400 sec. at M 1/4 output
    • 1/6600 sec. at M 1/8 output
    • 1/11100 sec. at M 1/16 output
    • 1/20000 sec. at M 1/32 output
    • 1/25000 sec. at M 1/64 output
    Looks like no prayer of getting blur without multiple flash....
    I make it policy to never let ignorance stand in the way of my opinion. ~Justiceiro

    "Your decisions on whether to buy, when to buy and what to buy should depend on careful consideration of your needs primarily, with a little of your wants thrown in for enjoyment, After all photography is a hobby, even for pros."
    ~Herbert Keppler
  • bobcoolbobcool Registered Users Posts: 271 Major grins
    edited April 29, 2008
    Or you could try another method...
    I know this is tedious if there are many cars in the shot, but you could use the radial blur filter in Photoshop or Elements to simulate tire blur...

    287067375_DonWk-M.jpg

    This is a quick rough job, and you can see I missed selecting the tread on the front tire, but it only took me a couple of minutes. I think it would only be worth it if you have shots like this of one or two cars, though - it would be a pain to blur eight or ten pairs of wheels for every photo.
  • SloYerRollSloYerRoll Registered Users Posts: 2,788 Major grins
    edited April 29, 2008
    bobcool wrote:
    I know this is tedious if there are many cars in the shot, but you could use the radial blur filter in Photoshop or Elements to simulate tire blur...
    Doesn't even need to be tedious. Just make a selection and copy each tire onto a new layer. Then apply radial blur to each tire layer.
    Done. :D
  • JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
    edited May 1, 2008
    donek wrote:
    Took me a few minutes to find it, but I played around with the repeat function on my flash about 2 years ago. The image below is the result of that experiment.


    You can easily see a motion blur effect as a result of the flash firing multiple times during one exposure. The SB-800 can be set to fire between 1 and 100 times per second (1 to 100 HZ). I checked my D200 manual as it has a built in flash. It does not indicate a repeat function, but does discuss a slow sync function for preserving backgrounds (that might work). It looks like you're using a Canon Rebel, but I'm not sure if you are using the on camera flash or not. The best thing to do would be to read your flash and camera manual to find out if the two functions I've mentioned are available. Older flash units can typically be found on e-bay for about 100 dollars. Many of them may have these functions although require being used in a manual mode with a DSLR such as your rebel.

    Basically I need to get my flash to fire multiple times? I have Rebel XT with 430ex and I don't think I have that option. Outside of buying another flash, does anyone have any suggestions?

    I just got the 85mm 1.8 but I'm not sure that's the answer I am looking for. I usually use the heat races to get individual car pictures and in the features I try to get the action shots. With the 85mm and limited areas to shoot from, this lens should suit my style just fine; use it for heats and use 70-200 2.8 for the features. When I need to go to the 70-200 2.8 I am going to have to put the flash on so I would like to show some more action.
    Jamie
    JBHotShots.com
    Facebook
    7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX
  • i_worship_the_Kingi_worship_the_King Registered Users Posts: 548 Major grins
    edited May 2, 2008
    I make it policy to never let ignorance stand in the way of my opinion. ~Justiceiro

    "Your decisions on whether to buy, when to buy and what to buy should depend on careful consideration of your needs primarily, with a little of your wants thrown in for enjoyment, After all photography is a hobby, even for pros."
    ~Herbert Keppler
  • JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
    edited May 2, 2008

    There's always one in the crowd.:D

    I have a track owner that wants to see me succeed but trying to convince him to add and or adjust would be awful tough. The only angle that I have is that I would have better pictures for his advertising. mwink.gif
    Jamie
    JBHotShots.com
    Facebook
    7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX
  • apexonephotoapexonephoto Registered Users Posts: 121 Major grins
    edited May 4, 2008
    I shoot alot of dirt at night, and it may be how well you follow through with panning after you press the shutter. This shot is 1/200s ISO 400 and f2.8 and AI servo. This is from Volunteer Speedway in Tennessee.270474650_iaZGf-M-2.jpg

    This shot below is a few minutes later and if there was anything different about it, it was that I couldn't pan so great with where the fence was. LouDogsRucca, I would consider bumping up you ISO. 400 is kinda low for night time, if your camera has 500 or 640 I would try that before going up to 800.
    270482948_kyYAD-M-2.jpg
    Also Sanfordtullis, if you are trying to sell photos, you may want to turn the largest photo size to large or even medium, as anyone with a basic knowledge of internet browsers can copy all of your original high res photos. Not to mention a watermark would be a good idea.
  • sanford tullissanford tullis Registered Users Posts: 63 Big grins
    edited May 4, 2008
    I shoot alot of dirt at night, and it may be how well you follow through with panning after you press the shutter. This shot is 1/200s ISO 400 and f2.8 and AI servo. This is from Volunteer Speedway in Tennessee.270474650_iaZGf-M-2.jpg

    This shot below is a few minutes later and if there was anything different about it, it was that I couldn't pan so great with where the fence was. LouDogsRucca, I would consider bumping up you ISO. 400 is kinda low for night time, if your camera has 500 or 640 I would try that before going up to 800.
    270482948_kyYAD-M-2.jpg
    Also Sanfordtullis, if you are trying to sell photos, you may want to turn the largest photo size to large or even medium, as anyone with a basic knowledge of internet browsers can copy all of your original high res photos. Not to mention a watermark would be a good idea.

    I have the protection turned on, on my Smugmug page and havn't found anyone who has been able to get by thier security. I have asked people I know to try and get them off of the site to test the security. When I post a picture on a forum, than they have been able to get past the security and that is ok with me, because then they are able to show me what to do to fix a problem I am having. If I am overlooking something on the security than please let me know.
    Capture memories one image at a time
  • apexonephotoapexonephoto Registered Users Posts: 121 Major grins
    edited May 4, 2008
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