Why are my pictures blurry?

djspinner2k

Just resently i have been getting alot of blurry pictures.

autofocus on
program mode
focus points on the subject

can't figure it out










thanks for your help

djspinner2k

this is taken with a canon 30d and a 24-70mm F2.8L

then skin looks dull and not krisp

I only use this lens. check out my other gallaries to view the pictures that used to come out with this lens.

beetle8

Why program?
I'll bet it's that, a combination of slow shutter under exposed high ISO
is it happening with one lens or the other or all?

ShepsMom

If you can post EXIF data for each shot, that would help to see why they're like that.

pathfinder

Please post the exif data ( ISO, aperture, shutter speed, lens focal length ) associated with these images to allow us to make some appropriate comments.

jfriend

djspinner2k wrote:

Just resently i have been getting alot of blurry pictures.

autofocus on
program mode
focus points on the subject

can't figure it out

thanks for your help

OK, this one:


is 1/200, f/7.1, 24mm, ISO 100. When I look at the original version of that photo, my only guess is that the camera focused on the building behind you and not on the person. At f/7.1 and 24mm, you would have had plenty of depth of field if you were focused anywhere near the man. There's also motion blur in the man's hand which means he was moving (at least his hand) fairly quickly. It's possible that the rest of his body was moving a bit too fast for 1/200th also so you may have some motion blur in him. Or, it could be that you were moving the camera a bit too much when you punched the shutter. The seat in the golf cart looks OK sharp and we can assume it was not moving, so there is something in the image that appears to be in focus. The top of the roof of the golf cart looks a little odd. Perhaps it's some CA at the edge.

My overall guess is that the camera didn't focus on the man and that the shutter speed was a little to slow for the amount of motion and maybe the camera holding technique wasn't real solid.

And this one:


is 1/320, f/6.3, 70mm and ISO 100. Obviously, the foreground subject is way underexposed because it's so back lit. Nothing in the image seems to be sharp so it's not easy to figure out what happened here. The cup is sharper than anything in the background so I'm guessing that the image is front focused (focused on something in front of the man). I have no idea what situation caused that. The original for that one is here.

Smugmug isn't letting me get to the other two images right now (it appears to be some sort of Smugmug hiccup) so I can't comment on them.

djspinner2k

I do recall this lens getting a little wet last time I was shooting sharp pictures. The rain came down and I tried to cover my camera the best I could and run for cover.

The 24-70mm F2.8L is not water tight so maybe that could be the cause.

djspinner2k

beetle8 wrote:

Why program?
I'll bet it's that, a combination of slow shutter under exposed high ISO
is it happening with one lens or the other or all?

it seems to only happen with one lens. but this is the lens i use most of the time.

Pittspilot

If you are using a tripod, be sure to turn any IS system off.

ivar

Pittspilot wrote:

If you are using a tripod, be sure to turn any IS system off.

I don't think there is an IS on the 24-70...

djspinner2k

no tri-pod and no IS

saurora

I think Jfriend is on the right track. My guess would be that the cup is sharper because it protrudes and is closer to the camera than the man's face and body. Also, it's possible in the poor light your lens was searching for something contrasty to lock onto as the black rim (next to the bright silver) of the cup looks fairly sharp. A lot depends how you use your focal points. Given the poor lighting and the situation of someone lifting something fairly awkward and heavy over their head, there was probably a lot of movement on the subject's part, adding to the problem. The skin is not 'crisp' because the image is underexposed in addition to the subject movement. Kick your ISO up when shooting in the shade. I would have started at 400 ISO myself for the cup shots or use some fill flash.

CookieS

It may be worth sending th elens in for service and calibration.

pathfinder

Do you use one and only one AF point, or are you letting the camera choose the AF points?

The 30D allows you to select which AF point you are desiring to use. If you let the camera choose ( or you do not actively choose just one point you are letting the camera choose by default ), you can expect the camera to prefer to focus on things that are closer, sharper, straighter, and higher in contrast. That is what the 30D AF system does.

If you want really critical focus, YOU must choose which AF point best serves for each image, and actively select it. This is very true of the 30D's AF system in particular, also.

I call it 'riding herd on the AF system'.

I suggest giving this a try, before shipping the lens off to Canon Factory Service. If the lens misfocuses when you KNOW which AF point was selected, then you have a problem with either the lens or the camera body.

Richard

pathfinder wrote:

Do you use one and only one AF point, or are you letting the camera choose the AF points?

The 30D allows you to select which AF point you are desiring to use. If you let the camera choose ( or you do not actively choose just one point you are letting the camera choose by default ), you can expect the camera to prefer to focus on things that are closer, sharper, straighter, and higher in contrast. That is what the 30D AF system does.

If you want really critical focus, YOU must choose which AF point best serves for each image, and actively select it. This is very true of the 30D's AF system in particular, also.

I call it 'riding herd on the AF system'.

I suggest giving this a try, before shipping the lens off to Canon Factory Service. If the lens misfocuses when you KNOW which AF point was selected, then you have a problem with either the lens or the camera body.

One of the Canon utilities--I can't remember whether it is DPP or ZoomBrowser--has a function that displays which focus point was selected. You might want to check some of the pics that came out badly.

ivar

Richard wrote:

One of the Canon utilities--I can't remember whether it is DPP or ZoomBrowser--has a function that displays which focus point was selected. You might want to check some of the pics that came out badly.

You can also see it on the camera display itself when you look at the image (need to select 'info' till you see the small image with all the data and the histogram).

djspinner2k

I am going to have to check out the pictures again.

I did some test shots at home that used to always come out sharp.

I will have to post them.

My kit lens had better pictures then my L lens.

Manfr3d

To me this looks like you focused behind the subject. In the first
image the hand is blurred because it moves so fast. And while
the guy is not sharp the cart and ground behind him is ... same
with the trophy guy in the 3rd picture where he is unsharp and the
construction in the back and some of the people (shirts) look sharp.

Try to check your focus points like a previous poster sugested.
If your camera was on auto afpoint selection chances are high
the lens only focused on the wrong part. If not the lens might
need service because of backfocusing.


just my 2 cents

djspinner2k

I check out my focus points. I think the problem is backfocusing. it looks like my points are on the guy. but the lens focused behind him.

I wonder what might has caused this