Jessica (co-worker)
I continue to practice my studio lighting with one light source i just aquired, and my co-worker volunteered to let me do some headshots of her.
Nothing special as we were at work (while nothing else to do )
I'm looking to purchase second light next month.
How did i do so far? :scratch
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5
6:rofl
Nothing special as we were at work (while nothing else to do )
I'm looking to purchase second light next month.
How did i do so far? :scratch
1
2
3
4
5
6:rofl
0
Comments
Overall, I think they're a little flat looking. I'm guessing you had the light really close to the camera. Try moving it a bit to one side so you get a little more depth to the face. It also looks like you're mixing in some ambient light as well... fluorescents? They seem to have a little bit of a green tint... If you boost the power on your strobe you can overpower the ambient light, or just turn off any lights in the room that are too bright.
I think number 5 has the most depth to it... the light seems to be on the left side of her face more, and then falls off slightly on the right.
Keep playing with different light positions and exposures and see what works best! To see if the ambient light is interfering or not, you can set your exposure for the flash, and then do a test shot with the flash off - look at the LCD and see if it's totally dark. If it is, then you know your flash is doing all the lighting and you don't have to deal with the ambient.
If you are going to mix the ambient with the flash, mixing with window light can work well - if you're going to mix with tungsten or fluorescent lights, you should probably put a gel on your flash to match the color cast.
Spend some time over at http://strobist.com and you'll learn a ton about off-camera lighting! You're off to a fine start.
Let see, i had an umbrella, using my SB800 to shoot through. It's triggerd by camera, but in order to do so, i have to use my pop-up flash. So i had 2 flashes. Room had about 8 fluerecent light blocks up on the ceiling, quiet bright.
I had umbrellas positioned to the left of me for all the shots.
I'll keep on practicing at home.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
dak.smugmug.com
It might be easier for you to learn if you can first get a handle on just getting the flash exposure you want before you get into balancing the flash with the ambient light.
As far as the triggering goes, I'm not familiar with the Nikon system either... Does the pop-up flash trigger the SB800 with the burst of light? Or is it a wireless system built into the Nikon cameras?
If it's a wireless Nikon system, you can try blocking the built-in flash when you fire so it doesn't contribute to the exposure. If it's a system triggered by the light of the flash, you can try setting your SB800 to manual, and then your on-camera flash exposure compensation (FEC) to -3 so the built-in flash doesn't really do that much... and then clone out the straight-on catchlights in the eyes after the fact.
Well, those are my thoughts. Have fun! I think playing with off-camera flash is really exciting.
I know, it's really annoying, i can't figure out how to do it without pop-up flash firing.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Thanks Greg, yes, it's a wireless Nikon system and it only triggers SB800 when pop-flash is fired.
All of the shots were done at ISO100, i tried blocking pop-up flash w/o any success, so i put difuser on it, really didn't make any difference. My exposure was set anywhere between -1 to -7
I don't know what else to do with it.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
You could try a ir-pass filter on it, I've heard those work in exactly this scenario. Or use any reflecting bit of surface to turn the light from the pop-flash away from your subject - a bouncer.
Nice images, btw. I was gonna say you could deepen the shadows, but a straight firing flash on the camera kind of explains it.
The change from #5 to #6 is funny
http://pyryekholm.kuvat.fi/
Take a piece of Al. foil and make a shield and reflector to shield the light from going to the subjec and reflect it oevr to the SB800 only.....or spend >30.00 for a wireless RF flash trigger from Ebay......Here is a page showing what the seller I purchased from has to offer.....I purchased the 16 channel RF Wireless.....but please read them carefully as some flashes need a shoe with pc connections to work (which this seller does sell)....I purchased mine for use with my sunpak 622 and also my studio lights on location......I did make 1 mistake and did not order an extra reciever and so I will ahve to order an extra reciever shortly to ahve enuff for both sunpak622 and 2 studio strobes on location or at weddings.........so I suggest the 16 channel with at least 2 recievers and if you ask they will sell extra recievers at the same time with no added shipping cost or at least they would have 2 months ago when I got mine..............
BTW with what you have to work with I think you did a fantastic job.
Thanks again!!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Also, Nikon makes a cool little gizmo that comes with the macro flash kit. I think it's an SG-3ir. It's the IR thingy mentioned above. It's just made of ABS plastic, and I doubt it costs much of anything. It will allow the pop-up to fire your remotes, but eliminate the catchlight from the pop-up. Or you can do as Art says and rig an ugly half-assed tin-foil thing .
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Good nite
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8