Any guides on how to take photos for stitching correctly?

jasonstone

Hi everyone,

Can anyone tell me or point me to a simple tutorial on how to best take photos to stitch together to make a nice panorama?

I've tried it a bit on the D80 but don't seem to be getting as good results as when i did it in stitching mode (show's the overlap) on my old IXUS700.

Want to get some great panoramas when I'm in the US on holidays.

Thanks for all tips

Cheers, Jase

gus

Jase what programme are you using ? That will help us help you.

jasonstone

gus wrote:

Jase what programme are you using ? That will help us help you.

Err well just Canon Photostitch which I received with the IXUS700.

I've no idea what else I can use - don't want to pay though already spent enough money this month (err year) on photography stuff - wifie will kill me soon

Cheers, Jase

Richard

There are just a few basic things you need to do while shooting:

• Meter for a representative piece of the scene, then set your camera for manual exposure at those settings.
• Use a tripod and remote release or timer. Make sure the camera is level before you start. Make sure you only pan.
• Try to overlap somewhere between 25 to 33 percent.
• Choose a lens and focal length that minimizes barrel distortion.
• Try to work quickly if the light is changing fast.

If you are having specific problems, posting a sample will help sort thing out.

Cheers,

jasonstone

Richard wrote:

There are just a few basic things you need to do while shooting:

• Meter for a representative piece of the scene, then set your camera for manual exposure at those settings.
• Use a tripod and remote release or timer. Make sure the camera is level before you start. Make sure you only pan.
• Try to overlap somewhere between 25 to 33 percent.
• Choose a lens and focal length that minimizes barrel distortion.
• Try to work quickly if the light is changing fast.

If you are having specific problems, posting a sample will help sort thing out.

Cheers,

Thanks Richard - I plan on taking my tripod this trip - hopefully i can carry it around with me too

I'll try to keep those instructions/tips in mind - might try to practise one or two before I go

Cheers, Jase

Antonio Correia

Richard wrote:

There ...

• Try to overlap somewhere between 25 to 33 percent... Cheers,

Hello Richard. Como está ? (Portuguese because Sapnish I am afraid to write mistakes as I often do in English )
I think that if we use a wide angle lens we can increase the number of shots to overlap to avoid barrel distortion. Do you agree with this ?

I mean, instead of 2 shots with an overlap of 30 % I would make 4 shots (counting the 1.st one) with an overlap of 3/4 than 1/2 and 1/4.

Did I explain myself correctly ? Did I make myself understand ?
I hope so.

Richard

Antonio Correia wrote:

[/list]Hello Richard. Como está ? (Portuguese because Sapnish I am afraid to write mistakes as I often do in English )
I think that if we use a wide angle lens we can increase the number of shots to overlap to avoid barrel distortion. Do you agree with this ?

I mean, instead of 2 shots with an overlap of 30 % I would make 4 shots (counting the 1.st one) with an overlap of 3/4 than 1/2 and 1/4.

Did I explain myself correctly ? Did I make myself understand ?
I hope so.

Hola, Toni. Cuánto tiempo sin verte...

I wouldn't go that far, actually. The more you overlap, the more chance there is for misalignment, especially if there are trees moving in the wind. With a 3/4 overlap, the same object might be present in three frames, and this could complicate matters. I suppose some software is better at resolving these problems, . But you are correct that you will reduce distortion problems if you stay away from the wide end of the lens. When possible, I try to shoot panos close to 50mm.

Antonio Correia

Richard wrote:

Hola, Toni. Cuánto tiempo sin verte...

I wouldn't go that far, actually. The more you overlap, the more chance there is for misalignment, especially if there are trees moving in the wind. With a 3/4 overlap, the same object might be present in three frames, and this could complicate matters. I suppose some software is better at resolving these problems, . But you are correct that you will reduce distortion problems if you stay away from the wide end of the lens. When possible, I try to shoot panos close to 50mm.

Well yes, you are right Richard:
"The more you overlap, the more chance there is for misalignment"
50 mm lens on a full frame...
My Mac had some troubles and I have been away for some time now.
But I will be back. Obrigado

Scott_Quier

Richard wrote:

There are just a few basic things you need to do while shooting:

• Meter for a representative piece of the scene, then set your camera for manual exposure at those settings.
• Use a tripod and remote release or timer. Make sure the camera is level before you start. Make sure you only pan.
• Try to overlap somewhere between 25 to 33 percent.
• Choose a lens and focal length that minimizes barrel distortion.
• Try to work quickly if the light is changing fast.

If you are having specific problems, posting a sample will help sort thing out.

Cheers,

In addition to this, take care if you are planning to use a CP filter as they can induce artificial/unnatural darkening of the sky.

As to the number of images to use to create the pano...



EXIF:

• f/6.7
• 1/750
• 55mm (using EF 24-105 f/4L)
• 23 images - in portrait orientation, with something between 30% and 50% overlap

This was stitched using the automated facility in CS3 - works great!

The point is that you can use a lot of images to create a pano - just need to pay some attention to the subject. You are better off with fewer component images if there's a chance that something in the scene will move and, thus, cause registration issues.

jasonstone

Scott_Quier wrote:

In addition to this, take care if you are planning to use a CP filter as they can induce artificial/unnatural darkening of the sky.

As to the number of images to use to create the pano...



EXIF:

• f/6.7
• 1/750
• 55mm (using EF 24-105 f/4L)
• 23 images - in portrait orientation, with something between 30% and 50% overlap

This was stitched using the automated facility in CS3 - works great!

The point is that you can use a lot of images to create a pano - just need to pay some attention to the subject. You are better off with fewer component images if there's a chance that something in the scene will move and, thus, cause registration issues.

Nice one!

Question is - was this panning in a circular motion, i.e. moving camera from left to right on a tripod head? or did you move the camera from left to right in a straight line? e.g. physically moving the tripod - or maybe you've got some really long line drawn out?

I've already gleaned that exposure should be the same across the photo - what about focus?

Should I focus on a point (maybe hyperfocal) and then set the focus to manual???

Thanks again everyone - I think I might just be able to get a decent pano now (well maybe )

Cheers, Jase

Scott_Quier

jasonstone wrote:

Nice one!

Thanks!

jasonstone wrote:

Question is - was this panning in a circular motion, i.e. moving camera from left to right on a tripod head? or did you move the camera from left to right in a straight line? e.g. physically moving the tripod - or maybe you've got some really long line drawn out?

Forgot to mention that this was panned in circular motion, hand-held - no tripod. However, I was sitting down, I used the focus points to orient the camera on the water/mountain line to keep the camera level and to keep the elevation of the camera consistent from one exposure to the next. You will read people like Andy referring to things like pivoting about the nodal point of the lens, etc. This stuff is important when your subject includes objects close to the camera. I avoided that worry by NOT including close stuff, thus was able to simply rotate my torso to get the shots of the pano. But, for those shots where there are objects close to the camera, you do need to pay careful attention to things like rotating about the nodal point of the lens.

jasonstone wrote:

I've already gleaned that exposure should be the same across the photo - what about focus?

Once you have set the ISO, aperture, shutter speed, and focus - leave it all alone from one exposure to the next. Something not mentioned above is that you need to set a WB to something other than AWB. If you have AWB set, the WB can/will change from one exposure to the next and then you are sunk!

jasonstone wrote:

Should I focus on a point (maybe hyperfocal) and then set the focus to manual???

Set you focus - use manual or auto but use your brain to decide on what in the scene will the point of critical focus. Select this point based on your understanding of DOF, hyperfocal distances, and the effect you are looking for. Once you have set it, YES turn off the AF on the camera.

Also not noted above but should be obvious - don't change the focal length of the lens while making the pano

jasonstone wrote:

Thanks again everyone - I think I might just be able to get a decent pano now (well maybe )

Cheers, Jase

jasonstone

Thanks Scott - I think that's just about nailed exactly what I had jumbled up in my mind - now I know what I have to do

Just have to do it now

Well we'll see what opportunities pop up...

Cheers, Jase

Antonio Correia

Relax. It is not difficult.
I shot this pano with the canon G9, handheld in manual.
As the picture was not very important I was relaxed and I had no special care...
It turned out to be a good one.

Richard

jasonstone wrote:

Nice one!

Question is - was this panning in a circular motion, i.e. moving camera from left to right on a tripod head? or did you move the camera from left to right in a straight line? e.g. physically moving the tripod - or maybe you've got some really long line drawn out?

Don't move the tripod. If you are a perfectionist, you should be rotating the camera around the nodal point of the lens and focal length. See tute here. Special heads are available but people have also had good results with home brew solutions. If you are relatively far from the subject, you don't have to worry much about this finer point. As you can see, people sometimes manage to shoot very nice panos without a tripod at all.

I've already gleaned that exposure should be the same across the photo - what about focus?

Should I focus on a point (maybe hyperfocal) and then set the focus to manual???

Yes. Just make sure that you have set the aperture correctly to give you the DOF you want.

jasonstone

Richard wrote:

Don't move the tripod. If you are a perfectionist, you should be rotating the camera around the nodal point of the lens and focal length. See tute here.

Much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much much too hard

...for the (to be) random pano shooter like me

But thanks for the tip anyway

Cheers, Jase

cmason

You should check out the open-source (free) pano stich tool 'hugin' as it has far more capabilities that the Canon Photostich

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/

jasonstone

cmason wrote:

You should check out the open-source (free) pano stich tool 'hugin' as it has far more capabilities that the Canon Photostich

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/

Thanks I'm checking it out now... only one thing - is there an "idiot" mode???

I like where possible for it to do a lot of it automatically for me or at least guide me through - the screenshots make it look really powerful but also a bit scary to approach!

So many lines and co-ordinates!!!

cmason

jasonstone wrote:

Thanks I'm checking it out now... only one thing - is there an "idiot" mode???

I like where possible for it to do a lot of it automatically for me or at least guide me through - the screenshots make it look really powerful but also a bit scary to approach!

So many lines and co-ordinates!!!

Well I think that is the point of the Canon tool. It is the 'idiot mode tool". Use it for a few photos. You will learn why all those lines and co-ordinates are in hugin.