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Transparent acrylic against a white background...HELP

liamSliamS Registered Users Posts: 9 Beginner grinner
edited July 8, 2008 in Technique
Was just wondering if I could grab some wisdom from all of you.

I have a task at work to take new images of an acrylic product of ours but Im really struggling with create a single shot that is clear and pristine.

Heres a link to the products in question - http://www.displaysense.co.uk/search-0-1-1-cds1

The main issue is when the image is in thumbnail...against the white backgrounf it is almost invisible...

Any help or advice would be great!

Thanks again

LiamS

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    ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 23,901 moderator
    edited July 4, 2008
    Hi Liam,

    Photographing clear and transparent subjects against white is among the most difficult tasks in photography.

    Part of the solution involves how you think and see the subject, versus how the camera images the subject.

    When we view subjects in scenes with limited contrast our brains do a very remarkable thing, our brain translates the limited tones to deeper tones and seeks out the outlines and the brain exaggerates the differences.

    That's exactly what you need to do photographically, both in lighting and in post.

    Part of the solution is using a type of rim lighting and "flagging" to bring out the edges. Flags are simple devices that have the opposite effect of lights. Flags are typically dark objects and dark strips, outside of the scene, which produce a dark rim or dark "glint" in the object to help define the shape of the object and create separation from the background.

    This is a pretty good resource for photographing glass:

    http://www.tabletopstudio.com/documents/glass_photography.htm

    Underlighting is another good way to help bring out shapes in clear objects. It does work best against a black background but can help with a white background as well. Combined with black flags you can create enough edges to be convincing and definitive.

    The solution to thumbnail images is usually to "clip" the subject from the background so that you can apply either a shadow effect or an outer glow plus shadow. In some cases you may need to use a separate layer with a "Bas Relief" effect to "create" exaggerated detail in the product at thumbnail sizes. You will need to moderate the effects described to get an authentic "look" (it should not be obvious of the effect and should look natural.)

    In extreme cases you may even need to "paint in" detail using artistic technique.

    All of this takes considerable time and starts with a very well lit image.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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    ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 23,901 moderator
    edited July 4, 2008
    Liam,

    Additionally, since most of your images include objects that are opaque examples of use of the acrylic product, you may need 2 exposures: one exposure for the acrylic product and one for the opaque objects. You may even need to vary the lighting to suit the needs of each image.

    Later, in PhotoShop, you would use layers and masking technique to composite the two images.

    In the latest PhotoShop versions, "Shadow/Highlight" adjustments may make your acrylic layer more visible without too much trouble.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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    ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 23,901 moderator
    edited July 4, 2008
    Me again. :D

    I should explain that the reason mixing opaque objects and transparent objects in the same image is so difficult is because, especially with studio lighting and white background, opaque objects are only reflective while transparent objects are both reflective and transmissive to light. The transmissive light adds to the reflective light and creates extra exposure and reduced contrast compared to the opaque objects.

    That's the reason the two may need a different treatment in post.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,698 moderator
    edited July 5, 2008
    Why not use a black background?
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    OneEyedJackOneEyedJack Registered Users Posts: 45 Big grins
    edited July 8, 2008
    you could add a rim light with a blue gel on it to give it that "ice cube" type look and seperate it from the background

    or you can use a chromakey background and digitally remove it and add in a white background. With this youll have to make sure you dont get any green overspill on the subject or youll be removing that also

    http://www.backdropsource.com/Productinfo.asp?id=1312&pname=10ft-x-15ft-chromakey-green-backdrop-with-a-stand
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