C&C please...

topcat374 · February 12, 2010

This is my first C&C request (deep breath!). I don't think this is a particularly stunning shot but would like some constructive critisism about any aspect of it:)

Taken with a Nikon D50, 55-200mm lens at 95mm, f/22, 0.5 sec SS. I have increased the saturation in the sky and water in PS and darkened the highlights a little. Any thoughts much appreciated:) Thanks.

Fenland_sunset.jpg

andersmi24 · February 12, 2010

Focus seems a bit soft...hard to tell what that is in the water: car? mini-car? Paddle-boat?

The colors are beautiful!

topcat374 · February 12, 2010

andersmi24 wrote:

Focus seems a bit soft...hard to tell what that is in the water: car? mini-car? Paddle-boat?

The colors are beautiful!

Thanks for quick response. Soft focus...what do I do about that?! I used a tripod and shot at f/22 which I was hopoing would render everything quite sharply. I also shot in RAW so I could check the WB and exposure afterwards. This is about the limit of my understanding! Picture looks sharper on the original rather than this reduced image so could just be that I guess...

andersmi24 · February 12, 2010

Do you have Photoshop? If so, check out this tutorial that I think really helps in sharpening images.

There are other ways of sharpening photos, and I'd love to hear from others in the forum, but this one has worked nicely for me recently.

topcat374 · February 16, 2010

andersmi24 wrote:

Do you have Photoshop? If so, check out this tutorial that I think really helps in sharpening images.

There are other ways of sharpening photos, and I'd love to hear from others in the forum, but this one has worked nicely for me recently.

Many thanks for this - I'll store it for future images:) I'm guessing 122 views and only 2 posts gives me a certain amount of feedback too:) Thanks again

hawkeye978 · February 16, 2010

Don't know what the image quality is on the Nikon lens, but at f/22 you are probably going to be soft. You should probably check on your specific lens, but usually f/11 to f/13 will give you the depth of field you are looking for in a landscape but keep the lens inherent sharpness. You should do some output sharpening if you haven't already. I assume you were on a tripod. You can also get softness depending on how you are triggering the camera. Pushing the trigger with your finger can introduce shake into the camera while a remote shutter release won't.

Is the lens stabilized? If stabilization was on and you were on a tripod that can actually introduce vibration into the picture as the camera tried to remove jitter that isn't there.

Just some thoughts.

The colors are good and you may get a little more detail in the sky by using an exposure gradient there.

topcat374 · February 16, 2010

hawkeye978 wrote:

Don't know what the image quality is on the Nikon lens, but at f/22 you are probably going to be soft. You should probably check on your specific lens, but usually f/11 to f/13 will give you the depth of field you are looking for in a landscape but keep the lens inherent sharpness. You should do some output sharpening if you haven't already. I assume you were on a tripod. You can also get softness depending on how you are triggering the camera. Pushing the trigger with your finger can introduce shake into the camera while a remote shutter release won't.

Is the lens stabilized? If stabilization was on and you were on a tripod that can actually introduce vibration into the picture as the camera tried to remove jitter that isn't there.

Just some thoughts.

The colors are good and you may get a little more detail in the sky by using an exposure gradient there.

Thanks for this info - think it may explain a few things! I'm not sure how to find out what the minimum recommended aperture is for the 18-55mm kit lens (I'll look into it) but have been cranking up to f/20+ on landscape shots in the hope of rendering everything in fine detail (currently trying to get a handle on DoF!!). Will try some more at f/13. I was mounted on a tripod but with no shutter release was holding down the button for 3 shots and then using the middle one in the hope of reducing instability (no built in stabilisation). More practice needed but learning all the time!

stirinthesauce · February 17, 2010

topcat374 wrote:

...... I was mounted on a tripod but with no shutter release was holding down the button for 3 shots and then using the middle one in the hope of reducing instability (no built in stabilisation). More practice needed but learning all the time!

I'll comment on that last part. A little tip I use that works great (to cheap and lazy to spring for a shutter release). Use the self timer. Also, use the mirror lockup and timer. Keeps your hands off the camera, the mirror lockup prevents the vibration from the lens slap up an down (just getting the downstroke on mirror lockup).

thapamd · February 17, 2010

Really like the mix of purples and pinks.

topcat374 · February 17, 2010

stirinthesauce wrote:

I'll comment on that last part. A little tip I use that works great (to cheap and lazy to spring for a shutter release). Use the self timer. Also, use the mirror lockup and timer. Keeps your hands off the camera, the mirror lockup prevents the vibration from the lens slap up an down (just getting the downstroke on mirror lockup).

Good idea thank you. Will try that

topcat374 · February 17, 2010

thapamd wrote:

Really like the mix of purples and pinks.

Thank you. That was the bit I had to tweak a little in PS as the sun was just a little too low in the sky (was hoping I hadn't overcooked it!!)

Thwack · February 18, 2010

topcat374 wrote:

Many thanks for this - I'll store it for future images:) I'm guessing 122 views and only 2 posts gives me a certain amount of feedback too:) Thanks again

Most threads seem to get far more views than comments. It's usually difficult to draw any real conclusions based on those stats. I wouldn't take the lack of comments to heart (though I will quickly agree it can be very frustrating!).

Can your D50 use the same infared remote that the D90 uses? If so, they're less than twenty bucks (for the one from Nikon). There's a third-party brand on Amazon that says it works with the D50 and is less than ten dollars.

Cheap investment for taking camera shake out of the equation...

Thwack · February 18, 2010

The horizon line seems very close dead center vertically. Have you explored cropping the shot to shift it up or down so it's at a one-third (-ish) spot?

Also, the curve of the water grabs my eye and shoves it out the left side of the picture. The water appears to go around a turn to the right, but you can't see it from the spot the picture was taken.

As a result, my eye is pulled away from the sunset spot instead of being lead right into it. Can you shoot that spot again from somewhere that will let you see at least part way around the bend to the right? Just enough to push the eye back towards the sunset instead of off the left side of the picture.

My compositions are usually weak so take the above with a grain of salt. I've been trying to study other pictures to see what makes them work (or not work) for me in hopes of improving.

Good luck and keep posting…looks like a pretty area.

topcat374 · February 18, 2010

Thwack wrote:

Most threads seem to get far more views than comments. It's usually difficult to draw any real conclusions based on those stats. I wouldn't take the lack of comments to heart (though I will quickly agree it can be very frustrating!).

Can your D50 use the same infared remote that the D90 uses? If so, they're less than twenty bucks (for the one from Nikon). There's a third-party brand on Amazon that says it works with the D50 and is less than ten dollars.

Cheap investment for taking camera shake out of the equation...

Thanks for the re-assurance - I have been known to get a little paranoid from time to time:D I'm also new to using forums so am learning 'netiquette' as I go too:) Yes, the D50 can use an infra-red remote (although the sensor is annoyingly placed on the front of the camera!) but I think one of my children may have found an alternative use for it

. Will invest in another ASAP. Thanks again

topcat374 · February 18, 2010

Thwack wrote:

The horizon line seems very close dead center vertically. Have you explored cropping the shot to shift it up or down so it's at a one-third (-ish) spot?

Also, the curve of the water grabs my eye and shoves it out the left side of the picture. The water appears to go around a turn to the right, but you can't see it from the spot the picture was taken.

As a result, my eye is pulled away from the sunset spot instead of being lead right into it. Can you shoot that spot again from somewhere that will let you see at least part way around the bend to the right? Just enough to push the eye back towards the sunset instead of off the left side of the picture.

My compositions are usually weak so take the above with a grain of salt. I've been trying to study other pictures to see what makes them work (or not work) for me in hopes of improving.

Good luck and keep posting…looks like a pretty area.

Good point well made Thwack. I could actually feel something wrong with the composition but couldn't pin down what. I'll have a go at the rule of thirds crop you suggested but I actually think you've hit the nail on the head with the direction of the meander. I pass thi spot on my way home from work every day so will wait for a decent sunset and have another go. I don't think I can get the meander in from as high a vantage point as that's on a bridge but I should be able to get a good compromise instead. Thanks for the suggestion (and hopefully watch this space!).

Thwack · February 22, 2010

topcat374 wrote:

Good point well made Thwack. ... <snip> Thanks for the suggestion (and hopefully watch this space!).

I'm looking forward to the re-shoot. Good luck!

C&C please...

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