Need some comments and suggestions from the Pro :D

chuson · May 12, 2010

Hi all,

I've been buying and lurking on this forum for quite some time and this is my first time to post. Recently I got a Nikon 105mm AF-D lens and having fun with it. I'm shooting it with my Nikon D80 and hoping to replace it with a D300 soon.

Anyways, below is some of my shots. I see a lot of insects shot that seems to go beyond 1:1 magnification, such as insects eyes. I was wondering if the Kenko MC4 1.4X teleconvertor will be a good pair with my 105mm f2.8 AF-D lens, I know there's the Pro300 version but trying to keep the cost down. However, if the quality suffer too much I'm willing to go for the Pro version.

Too scare/afraid to get close to a busy bee... hence I need want some distance and more magnification @ the same time :rolleyes

Lord Vetinari · May 12, 2010

Lovely series of shots.
Unless you are finding the focus distances too short, I'd go for a set of kenko extension tubes or similar auto ext tubes. less effect on picture quality and will get you to 2:1 with that lens.
Brian v.

GOLDENORFE · May 12, 2010

a good series, love the spider, good sharpness and lighting [try rotating 90 dgrees portrait format ]
go for extension tubes, much more versatile
phil

chuson · May 12, 2010

Lord Vetinari wrote: »

Lovely series of shots.
Unless you are finding the focus distances too short, I'd go for a set of kenko extension tubes or similar auto ext tubes. less effect on picture quality and will get you to 2:1 with that lens.
Brian v.

Thanks for your advise Brain, I checked out your flickr gallery and I must say with that many lovely shots, you are Lord of the macro expert

. I was wondering how close were you when you took pictures of a spider's head or dragonfly's eyes? Are you using 1 or multiple extension tubes to achieve those results?? Is the Nikon PK-13 any good?? Most of the people suggested Kenko but I don't know if I need all 3 tubes. BTW: your 3D album is crazy

GOLDENORFE wrote: »

a good series, love the spider, good sharpness and lighting [try rotating 90 dgrees portrait format ]
go for extension tubes, much more versatile
phil

Thanks for your advise Phil, I was also using a Nikon SB-800 when taking those shots. It gets very difficult when taking a macro shot out door without a tripod, tiny bit of handshakes will result in blurry photo, and a bit of wind just make it worst. The only way to fire a quick shot is to pair with an external flash, do you have any advise on flash setting? I tried the "FP" function so I can go pass 1/200 shutter speed on my D80 but the result is always bad (too dim), so I have to change it back to 1/200 (or slower) for sufficient lighting. I have tried to change the SB-800 setting to Manual, but it's very hard to control as sometimes 1/2 is too weak or too strong. I'm thinking if I should get a ring-flash for better light distribution. (NOT the serious one, I'm leaning towards RayFlash type.)

** My ISO setting is always below 250 because there's too much noise when it's above that level on my D80

2 More...

Lord Vetinari · May 13, 2010

Last 2 shots are wonderful !

For my high mag shots I use a Canon MPE-65 lens which goes from 1:1 to 5:1 without additions. I used to use a sigma 105 lens though with one set of extension tubes and a reversed 50mm lens to get to 4:1.

I would advise just getting a full set of kenkos, a full set of these will get you to 2:1 magnification with your lens but obviously you don't have to use them all.

For flash use put the camera in manual mode, something like 1/200th, F11, ISO100 and the flash into TTL mode.

Brian V.

chuson · May 13, 2010

Lord Vetinari wrote: »

Last 2 shots are wonderful !

For my high mag shots I use a Canon MPE-65 lens which goes from 1:1 to 5:1 without additions. I used to use a sigma 105 lens though with one set of extension tubes and a reversed 50mm lens to get to 4:1.

I would advise just getting a full set of kenkos, a full set of these will get you to 2:1 magnification with your lens but obviously you don't have to use them all.

For flash use put the camera in manual mode, something like 1/200th, F11, ISO100 and the flash into TTL mode.

Brian V.

Hey Brian,

So ALL 3 Kenko tubes together can only get me to 2:1 mag? What about if I use tubes + teleconvertor together, will I get higher mag with my 105mm AF-D?

On the flash advise, if I set everything to TTL, WB to flash and my flash setting to manual (e.g. 1/200), what's the point of TTL then? I thought TTL is to auto-meter the flash output or something. Do you suggest ring flash adaptor?

Lord Vetinari · May 13, 2010

chuson wrote: »

Hey Brian,

So ALL 3 Kenko tubes together can only get me to 2:1 mag? What about if I use tubes + teleconvertor together, will I get higher mag with my 105mm AF-D?

On the flash advise, if I set everything to TTL, WB to flash and my flash setting to manual (e.g. 1/200), what's the point of TTL then? I thought TTL is to auto-meter the flash output or something. Do you suggest ring flash adaptor?

I'd just try a full set of tubes first and get used to shooting like that (it's quite a challenge getting used to shooting above 1:1)- for higher mags than that you could also use a TC (nearest the camera body) but you may also want to think about reversing a 50mm lens onto the front of your macro lens which will give you 3:1 mag.

I'm not conversant with the Nikon flash systems but with a canon camera putting those settings with the camera in manual and the flash on TTL gives you full TTL flash control.

Brian v.

chuson · May 13, 2010

Lord Vetinari wrote: »

I'd just try a full set of tubes first and get used to shooting like that (it's quite a challenge getting used to shooting above 1:1)- for higher mags than that you could also use a TC (nearest the camera body) but you may also want to think about reversing a 50mm lens onto the front of your macro lens which will give you 3:1 mag.

I'm not conversant with the Nikon flash systems but with a canon camera putting those settings with the camera in manual and the flash on TTL gives you full TTL flash control.

Brian v.

Thanks Brian, I've tried the reverse lens method long long time ago but I think I will re-try it as my skill has improved. I'm wondering, what aperture do you set on the macro lens and the 50mm lens? I found that if I'm trying to do 1:1 shot, my subject (as a whole not just a spot) will not be sharp unless I go all the way up to f16+. Do I set the 50mm to infinity?

Lord Vetinari · May 13, 2010

chuson wrote: »

Thanks Brian, I've tried the reverse lens method long long time ago but I think I will re-try it as my skill has improved. I'm wondering, what aperture do you set on the macro lens and the 50mm lens? I found that if I'm trying to do 1:1 shot, my subject (as a whole not just a spot) will not be sharp unless I go all the way up to f16+. Do I set the 50mm to infinity?

Normally the reversed lens is set wide open and focused on infinity. Shooting at mags above 1:1 tends to be a balancing act between image sharpness and DOF. Using small apertures (eg F16) will give you better DOF but will lose image sharpness due to diffraction. When shooting above around 3:1 magnification I use between F7.1 and F11 (set on the main lens).
Brian v.

chuson · May 13, 2010

Now I'm having trouble to find macro coupling ring for 52-52, don't want to use e-bay and Adorama/B&H charge a $33 shipping on a $10 item.

Maybe I will just get an Tamron SP 1.4X + Nikon PK13, what will be the approximate mag ratio on a 105mm f2.8 with this setup?

HelenOster · May 16, 2010

chuson wrote: »

Now I'm having trouble to find macro coupling ring for 52-52, don't want to use e-bay and Adorama/B&H charge a $33 shipping on a $10 item.

Please email me directly: helen.oster@adoramacamera.com

Need some comments and suggestions from the Pro :D

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