Hot Shoe Flash

Fstoplife · December 15, 2010

Another flash question

So I've been using my Sb-600 in my D80 for about a year now, mostly blindly. I get the app I want, I set my manual, I add the flash and if it's too bright I adjust, it seems to me that when I use the hot shoe flash that my in camera meter does not work. I use TTL. Am I better of using manual flash settings? I've read the manual, I've read the Nikon Creative Lighting System, I feel like I've read so much and I just can't get it to click. I can absolutely use the flash, I bounce it mostly, but I feel like I am doing it wrong. Any advice? Any tutors? Anyone help? lol

Thanks in Advanced!

r3t1awr3yd · December 15, 2010

1) http://strobist.blogspot.com/
2)

Fstoplife · December 15, 2010

I've read that site, it just doesn't really click with me. I guess I'll go back and see if it gets stuck.

r3t1awr3yd · December 15, 2010

If you go through all the lighting 101 and 102, trust me, you'll learn more than you can soak in for a while.

dbveto · December 15, 2010

r3t1awr3yd wrote: »

If you go through all the lighting 101 and 102, trust me, you'll learn more than you can soak in for a while.

You are correct I had gone through the Lighting 101 and got some stuff out of it I have just really started going through lighting 102 and things are really clicking. Defiantly a site to recommend.

But I also thing Fstoplife might be wondering if his flash is working correctly?
Just for kicks I would throw the camera into program mode with the flash then try another mode and see if the flash output changes?

Fstoplife · December 15, 2010

I think the strobist is more about OCF. I want to know for the times I have to use it on my camera in the hotshoe. I usually just chimp it, I take a test photo with basic settings, then adjust from there, Usually I'll lower the flash output, or aperture, depending on what I have to do. I know that Flash stop motion, and that the fstop controls the ambient light. I am just not sure I am reading it right, or if there is a better way to do it, or that I am supposed to be doing. I put it on and bounce, which can sometimes be a pain, because I find myself moving the flash around a lot to make sure it's always bouncing and that takes a few seconds.

adbsgicom · December 15, 2010

Examples of what you are doing would be helpful. Some possible issues to consider:

1) The TTL metering is just trying to get the exposure right. Just like your camera meter, it will get confused by things that are very light or dark in terms of determining how much light to add.
2) Flashes have minimum as well as maximum distances for the flash depending on how much flash you need. If you are too close, you can blow out the subject even on the weakest setting.

Fstoplife · December 15, 2010

This is a snapshot from last night, just a test. These are the settings:

Exposure 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture f/1.8
Focal Length 50 mm
ISO Speed 160
Exposure Bias +1/3 EV ( seeing this is prob what contributed to my confusion! Completely forgot to adjust!!!!)
Flash Auto, Fired, Return detected

I had my SB-600 on camera, it was set to TTL and I am almost positive it was on 0, if not less than that. It still looks like my daughter has pinlights, not sure how the flash made that happen. I was sitting in front of her, but kinda to the left. The flash was pointed behind me on my slanted ceiling, which is a sorta grey color.So i was hoping to make it bounce and give good light. How does the lighting look? It looks sorta flat to me...I really want to see if there's a better way. Like at events. I am going to be shooting this Xmas, what's the best way to deal with the On camera flash?

I also want to add, this was taken at like 930 at night, and I only had a soft living room light on.

adbsgicom · December 15, 2010

Thanks for posting. Cute expression

Couple of possible thoughts.

1) Did you have a dome diffuser (the one that comes w/ the Nikon or a stoffen diffuser)? If so, that would definitely create the pin lights.
2) Think about where the light will be coming from in the image. Shooting to the ceiling behind you will soften the light, but not make it directional. If you shoot the light off to one side or another, then you get more direction in the bounced light.

Good read on bouncing and controlling an on-camera flash is a book by Neil Van Niekerk called "On-Camera Flash: Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photographers" Can be found on Amazon easily.

In this image the light is shot off to the left (wall isn't that far away -- this is a stairwell that is open behind her), but the light is also flagged so it doesn't spill forward on her (so all the light is from the side plus a small amount of ambient from the lights above).

Fstoplife · December 15, 2010

Thanks, lol I asked her for a serious face, at two, I don't think she quite got what I meant

Actually the little diffuser was on, the one that comes with the flash. I am going to try again without it. I also shot pointing at the wall, but then I felt the light was too harsh, maybe I should've dialed down? I am going to try again tonight, but I think I am going to put the flash on manual and see if that helps.

I've read that using on flash, you shouldn't shoot wide open, is that true? I really love the DOF in wide open, and I really want to be able to shoot it. I am going to look into that book, it seems like it's what I am looking for. Thanks again for advising me

))

adbsgicom · December 15, 2010

The main issue is that diffuser. You are turning your flash head in to a bare bulb, so light shoots everywhere (maybe a little more in the direction the flash is pointed, but not tons). Then you point the flash away so that light gets diffused again but the flash decides it can get enough from the forward spill. So ditch the diffuser, and start w/ the flash pointed away. Once you make yourself a little flag out of fun-foam, you can start angling the light in other ways and keep the spill controlled.

Sure, you can shoot wide open, no reason you can't. In Neil's book, he generally has the aperture pretty open because he wants the shutter speed as close to the max as possible. By doing that (which effectively forces the aperture open to counter the fast shutter) you are maximizing the power of the flash (by opening aperture and/or increasing ISO) which means you can bounce of surfaces further away...

The "Black Foamie Thing" for flagging the flash when aimed forward....

Ignore all the velcro, the operating parts are the hairband (stolen from pre-teen) and the fun-foam flag (also stolen from pre-teen). My total cost $0.00 (her total cost about $0.50...)

Happy Bouncing....

dbveto · December 15, 2010

Fstoplife wrote: »

I think the strobist is more about OCF. I want to know for the times I have to use it on my camera in the hotshoe. I usually just chimp it, I take a test photo with basic settings, then adjust from there, Usually I'll lower the flash output, or aperture, depending on what I have to do. I know that Flash stop motion, and that the fstop controls the ambient light. I am just not sure I am reading it right, or if there is a better way to do it, or that I am supposed to be doing. I put it on and bounce, which can sometimes be a pain, because I find myself moving the flash around a lot to make sure it's always bouncing and that takes a few seconds.

Yes it uses OCF more BUT it teaches about light regardless of the source.

Fstoplife · December 15, 2010

adbsgicom wrote: »

The main issue is that diffuser. You are turning your flash head in to a bare bulb, so light shoots everywhere (maybe a little more in the direction the flash is pointed, but not tons). Then you point the flash away so that light gets diffused again but the flash decides it can get enough from the forward spill. So ditch the diffuser, and start w/ the flash pointed away. Once you make yourself a little flag out of fun-foam, you can start angling the light in other ways and keep the spill controlled.

Sure, you can shoot wide open, no reason you can't. In Neil's book, he generally has the aperture pretty open because he wants the shutter speed as close to the max as possible. By doing that (which effectively forces the aperture open to counter the fast shutter) you are maximizing the power of the flash (by opening aperture and/or increasing ISO) which means you can bounce of surfaces further away...

The "Black Foamie Thing" for flagging the flash when aimed forward....

Ignore all the velcro, the operating parts are the hairband (stolen from pre-teen) and the fun-foam flag (also stolen from pre-teen). My total cost $0.00 (her total cost about $0.50...)

Happy Bouncing....

I made one of those!! I was just not sure how to position it on my flash to make it bounce. Where do I want the foam to be when I shoot, under or over the flash? That's to use instead of bouncing the flash, I can shoot straight at it? then it's bouncing off of that, so it should be above the flash. Lets say I am shooting straight forward, I have it on the top of the flash so the light diffuses off of it? I'd draw a diagram, but I can't right now.

adbsgicom · December 15, 2010

This isn't a bounce card (its black), it is a flag. I would only use this to bounce the flash (or if I were using the strobe in some off-camera purpose where I wanted to flag the spill). You put it where you don't want light to go. For example, where it is now is a fine place if I were shooting someone a ways away from me, and I wanted the light to becoming from a high surface off to the right between me and the subject, of if I was trying to get more dramatic lighting on a closer subject. Either way, the flag allows light to spill up and in the direction where I want to bounce, but not forward. Except for some really specific intents, I always let the spill go up and let the flag cover the bottom and one side of the flash. The main benefit of the bottom side (especially in an event) is to blind less people when the head is pointed at various angles.

RacinRandy · December 24, 2010

Fstoplife wrote: »

Lets say I am shooting straight forward, I have it on the top of the flash so the light diffuses off of it? I'd draw a diagram, but I can't right now.

your looking for one of these Items http://lumiquest.com/products.htm .

Most likely, for what your trying to do, one would be http://lumiquest.com/products/pocket-bouncer.htm but to soften things up a bunch get one of these http://lumiquest.com/products/big-bounce.htm.

I have one of these http://lumiquest.com/products/ultrasoft.htm and it works very well for when I go out and shoot people dancing at the bar or the silly candid type sstuff at the bar as well. Also works great for softening the light for a quick of camera snap

divamum · December 24, 2010

adbsgicom wrote: »

Good read on bouncing and controlling an on-camera flash is a book by Neil Van Niekerk called "On-Camera Flash: Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photographers" Can be found on Amazon easily.

And, of course, www.planetneil.com

time2smile · December 27, 2010

Did you try this site
http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/01/nikon-flash-two-separate-metering.html

Hot Shoe Flash

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