Any chance you can share the exif data or any other helpful pointer how to execute shots like these? Thanks!
Sure-
#9
ISO 800
27mm
F/8
30seconds
Manual with Auto WB
#10
ISO 800
17mm
F11
30seconds
Manual with Auto WB
Usually I shoot a much lower ISO and like to shoot around 5-8 minute exposures. This was a very cold night with streaking clouds and snow flurries so I decided to shoot higher ISO rather than mess around with my intervalometer.
I shoot a lot of landscapes at night. They are a challenge but you can get some rewarding shots that are unique. Timing the moon cycle and angle to each location is key. Sometimes a full moon is needed and sometimes a full moon is far to bright.
Focusing wise I use two techniques. One is to light something in the scene with a bright flashlight and then use live view to manually focus. The other is to compose the scene, use auto focus and focus on the moon, then switch back to manual- be sure not to hit either focus ring after switching back to manual.
Processing wise neither required much work, adjust exposure and white point a little bit, a little saturation of red, blue, and yellow, and a little clone stamping to bring down bright spots in the clouds.
Hope that helps.
"The Journey of life is as much in oneself as the roads one travels"
#10
ISO 800
17mm
F11
30seconds
Manual with Auto WB
Usually I shoot a much lower ISO and like to shoot around 5-8 minute exposures. This was a very cold night with streaking clouds and snow flurries so I decided to shoot higher ISO rather than mess around with my intervalometer.
I shoot a lot of landscapes at night. They are a challenge but you can get some rewarding shots that are unique. Timing the moon cycle and angle to each location is key. Sometimes a full moon is needed and sometimes a full moon is far to bright.
Focusing wise I use two techniques. One is to light something in the scene with a bright flashlight and then use live view to manually focus. The other is to compose the scene, use auto focus and focus on the moon, then switch back to manual- be sure not to hit either focus ring after switching back to manual.
Processing wise neither required much work, adjust exposure and white point a little bit, a little saturation of red, blue, and yellow, and a little clone stamping to bring down bright spots in the clouds.
Comments
http://danielplumer.com/
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--- Denise
Musings & ramblings at https://denisegoldberg.blogspot.com
These are my favorites of your set Joel. Nicely done.
Aaron Newman
Website:www.CapturingLightandEmotion.com
Facebook: Capturing Light and Emotion
Sure-
#9
ISO 800
27mm
F/8
30seconds
Manual with Auto WB
#10
ISO 800
17mm
F11
30seconds
Manual with Auto WB
Usually I shoot a much lower ISO and like to shoot around 5-8 minute exposures. This was a very cold night with streaking clouds and snow flurries so I decided to shoot higher ISO rather than mess around with my intervalometer.
I shoot a lot of landscapes at night. They are a challenge but you can get some rewarding shots that are unique. Timing the moon cycle and angle to each location is key. Sometimes a full moon is needed and sometimes a full moon is far to bright.
Focusing wise I use two techniques. One is to light something in the scene with a bright flashlight and then use live view to manually focus. The other is to compose the scene, use auto focus and focus on the moon, then switch back to manual- be sure not to hit either focus ring after switching back to manual.
Processing wise neither required much work, adjust exposure and white point a little bit, a little saturation of red, blue, and yellow, and a little clone stamping to bring down bright spots in the clouds.
Hope that helps.
Aaron Newman
Website:www.CapturingLightandEmotion.com
Facebook: Capturing Light and Emotion
Link to my Smugmug site
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www.mind-driftphoto.com
--- Denise
Musings & ramblings at https://denisegoldberg.blogspot.com
absolute winner
follow me on: flickr - 500px - twitter
I agree
www.mind-driftphoto.com
Thanks Aaron! You rock! Cheers!
Gallery: http://cornflakeaz.smugmug.com/