Depending on your ambient light you can have some real fun with slow shutters and "camera spins".
1/8 f4.5 ISO 800 rear curtain flash. Camera was rotated from about 10 o'clock to 1 o'clock. You really have to expiriment with this technique, and it isn't right for all types of ambient room light. It was cool however with these LED dance lights the DJ had.
Depending on your ambient light you can have some real fun with slow shutters and "camera spins".
1/8 f4.5 ISO 800 rear curtain flash. Camera was rotated from about 10 o'clock to 1 o'clock. You really have to expiriment with this technique, and it isn't right for all types of ambient room light. It was cool however with these LED dance lights the DJ had.
Nice shot - I'm taking my little sister and her husband out next saturday to practice a little. The wedding I'm shooting is going to be outdoors so I probably won't have much useable light in the middle of a June day unless there are a ton of trees around for shade. I'm a little worried that they're won't be and I don't have a meeting to see the location until mid-May. Any harsh sunlight tips?
Nice shot - I'm taking my little sister and her husband out next saturday to practice a little. The wedding I'm shooting is going to be outdoors so I probably won't have much useable light in the middle of a June day unless there are a ton of trees around for shade. I'm a little worried that they're won't be and I don't have a meeting to see the location until mid-May. Any harsh sunlight tips?
I can give ya tips...but you aint gonna like them :P
You have 3 basic options. Pose in deep shade, pose in fringe, or pose with their back to the sun.
1. Advantages: you control the light completely
Disadvantages: need a lot of flash speed, need to stop down considerably unless using some focal plane shutter voodoo.
2. Advantages: you can get a cool hair light, maybe some extra catchlights.
Disadvantages: you can end up with funky patterns on the face, light can change because of clouds/tree branches.
3. Advantages: you may be able to get away without using flash (for full body groups)
Disadvantages: They will probably be squinty, you might get racoon eyes.
Examples:
Full Shade ISO 100 f5 1/500th HSS (what Canon calls focal plane shutter)
Lighting here is FOC + 430EX on a light stand 6 foot up fired wirelessly probably 4:1 ratio TTL. The ratio is rigged 4:1 so that the off camera light is the key, and the FOC becomes the fill.
Full Shade ISO 100 f4.5 1/125
Sunpak 622 diffusion head + FOC set "double Front". Off camera flash is on a lightstand bout 6 feet up, and 6 feet to my left, I use this flash in manual. I don't usually meter it, because I have feel for how hot the light should be, but basically if you metered it it should be between f4.5 and f5.6. Bascially this give an extra kick to your on camera flash, the second light is not directional here, just extra light. The ambient sunlight was metering at 1/250 @f8 so this exposure is a couple stops hot for the background, who cares? it is out of focus anyway.
ISO 100 f6.3 1/160
Fringe: I'm not totally happy with how this turned out...yeah there is a shadow of her nose on his cheek, but it is kind of cool, FOC + my alien bee fired into an umbrella on my left is balanced with the sun light on my right. This is a trap I fall into by not having an assistant, this light is perfect for an assistant to use a reflector.
ISO 100 f7.1 1/160
This is how fringe is supposed to go. Just FOC here, and to tell the truth might have been in program (it was cold) The flash is probably pumped to +2/3 - +1 EC.
I don't advocate shooting in full overhead outdoor sun. I always try to find SOME kind of shade, even if it is just a patch. If you let the light get a little longer, the outcome can be ok.
Thats my dad...how many people get to shoot their father's wedding? Obviously this is not back to sun, I'm using the sunset as light here, be careful of your shadow.
this is full sun...and it isn't so bad...but not really a "portrait"
let the full sun stuff be your fun stuff and you'll be fine, for the serious stuff...get thee to some shade, and PRACTICE getting the exposure right in all situations before the job.
befor the wedding day....do your self a favor and get a flash bracket....Scott Q. will recommend the Newton brand (very good+expensive), I too like the camera rotating ones and I currently use Stroboframe RL2000 and the predecessor to the PRO RL.........but I will be moving to Custom brackets (also a very good sturdy handle/bracket).....but you want your flash off the shoe of the camera
befor the wedding day....do your self a favor and get a flash bracket....Scott Q. will recommend the Newton brand (very good+expensive), I too like the camera rotating ones and I currently use Stroboframe RL2000 and the predecessor to the PRO RL.........but I will be moving to Custom brackets (also a very good sturdy handle/bracket).....but you want your flash off the shoe of the camera
Yeah definitely get a flash bracket if you are only using one flash, and don't have a diffuser. If your wedding is going to be all outside you can get away without it so long as you limit the number of vertical poses, and don't shoot close to a wall or something. I no longer use one because I use 2 lights, and I use a gary fong whale tail but for single flash operation they are essential.
Yeah definitely get a flash bracket if you are only using one flash, and don't have a diffuser. If your wedding is going to be all outside you can get away without it so long as you limit the number of vertical poses, and don't shoot close to a wall or something. I no longer use one because I use 2 lights, and I use a gary fong whale tail but for single flash operation they are essential.
hmmm - okie dokie. I'm assuming this keeps the flash out of direct line with faces?
Also what's to keep me from just making a bracket? Seems like all it is is just a metal arm that holds the flash above the camera - doesn't make sense to spend all that money for something I can make. Maybe there's more to it than I'm seeing?
hmmm - okie dokie. I'm assuming this keeps the flash out of direct line with faces?
No, it keeps the flash above the lens to put shadows of your subject behnd them. It also increases the angle between the lens - subject - flash to reduce red-eye.
Also what's to keep me from just making a bracket? Seems like all it is is just a metal arm that holds the flash above the camera - doesn't make sense to spend all that money for something I can make. Maybe there's more to it than I'm seeing?
There's nothing to prevent you building your own. And you're right, it does keep the flash above the lens. The trick is to maintain the flash aspect while rotating the camera under it.
P.S. - Art's right - I do recommend the Newton Bracket, the Di100FR2 Flash Rotator to be specific.
No, it keeps the flash above the lens to put shadows of your subject behnd them. It also increases the angle between the lens - subject - flash to reduce red-eye.
There's nothing to prevent you building your own. And you're right, it does keep the flash above the lens. The trick is to maintain the flash aspect while rotating the camera under it.
P.S. - Art's right - I do recommend the Newton Bracket, the Di100FR2 Flash Rotator to be specific.
wow $190. From the GIF on the page you posted, I can't really tell how far forward the bracket holds the flash. It's job is to hold it over the lens and not the camera? as in...holding it about 3 inches further forward than it would normally sit?
wow $190. From the GIF on the page you posted, I can't really tell how far forward the bracket holds the flash. It's job is to hold it over the lens and not the camera? as in...holding it about 3 inches further forward than it would normally sit?
Nevermind, I see it now
There's a couple of bits and pieces that bring the price up another $50 or $75 - in total, a trivial amount when balanced/compared to the price of your body and glass. It's a tool and it usually pays to get the best tool for the job that you can afford. In this case, if you are going to shoot FOC, then the price for this (or another good) bracket is money well spent.
There's a couple of bits and pieces that bring the price up another $50 or $75 - in total, a trivial amount when balanced/compared to the price of your body and glass. It's a tool and it usually pays to get the best tool for the job that you can afford. In this case, if you are going to shoot FOC, then the price for this (or another good) bracket is money well spent.
And this thing really makes a huge difference huh? I'm asking as a user of standard equipment ...not all the fancy accessories
And this thing really makes a huge difference huh? I'm asking as a user of standard equipment ...not all the fancy accessories
The primary (and huge) difference is seen if you ever shoot with the camera in portrait orientation. Without the bracket, there will be shadows to one side or the other (depending on which way you rotate your camera) of your subject - very ugly ugly shadows.
It's only the very tall brackets that will have a significant impact on red-eye reduction ... owing to distance between the flash and the subject. The further the subject, the greater the height of the bracket must be to have a significant impact.
Believe me, if you are shooting a wedding for money (or even for free for a friend), you really want some sort of bracket that allows the camera to rotate under the flash and keeps the aspect of the flash constant throughout that rotation. The value of the equipment is much greater than the cost. Find one you like and get it - there are lots out there that perform "properly" and many that are not suited to this application.
I got a call a few days ago. It was the father of the bride telling me the wedding was off...for good. "She's moving back in with us and she's bringing the baby"
well crap. thanks for everyone's advice. I'm still going to keep shooting so I can be ready for whatever event I have next.
I got a call a few days ago. It was the father of the bride telling me the wedding was off...for good. "She's moving back in with us and she's bringing the baby"
well crap. thanks for everyone's advice. I'm still going to keep shooting so I can be ready for whatever event I have next.
Bummer for you --- good for her. If it's going to fall apart, better it be done before the wedding than after.
Keep shooting - there's an idea Maybe practice what you've learned here about flash. For the practice work, you don't need to invest in the bracket and all that jazz. Target your efforts to understanding flash and how to combine flash when ambient light to get more dramatic and pleasing results. Blurmore provided a lot of great examples of what can be accomplished.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you do - so please post. I love to learn by shooting (when I can find the time) and studying other people's work.
I got a call a few days ago. It was the father of the bride telling me the wedding was off...for good. "She's moving back in with us and she's bringing the baby"
well crap. thanks for everyone's advice. I'm still going to keep shooting so I can be ready for whatever event I have next.
That sucks...
I had one wedding cancel on me for next year. The groom booked me, then just called up like 2 weeks before we were supposed to shoot engagement pics and said she called it off. I refunded his deposit and told him to keep me in mind if he arrives at that place in life again.
I'm a bit relieved but also kinda bummed. I think I'll stick to engagement shoots and leave the weddings to the pro's...they make me too nervous
Find youself a wedding photographer that will allow you to sherpa for him/her - this will give you an opportunity to learn without any stress. Who knows, you may find that it's your cup of tea and that introduction may get you over the nervous issues and bring another great photographer into the industry.
Comments
1/8 f4.5 ISO 800 rear curtain flash. Camera was rotated from about 10 o'clock to 1 o'clock. You really have to expiriment with this technique, and it isn't right for all types of ambient room light. It was cool however with these LED dance lights the DJ had.
Nice shot - I'm taking my little sister and her husband out next saturday to practice a little. The wedding I'm shooting is going to be outdoors so I probably won't have much useable light in the middle of a June day unless there are a ton of trees around for shade. I'm a little worried that they're won't be and I don't have a meeting to see the location until mid-May. Any harsh sunlight tips?
I can give ya tips...but you aint gonna like them :P
You have 3 basic options. Pose in deep shade, pose in fringe, or pose with their back to the sun.
1. Advantages: you control the light completely
Disadvantages: need a lot of flash speed, need to stop down considerably unless using some focal plane shutter voodoo.
2. Advantages: you can get a cool hair light, maybe some extra catchlights.
Disadvantages: you can end up with funky patterns on the face, light can change because of clouds/tree branches.
3. Advantages: you may be able to get away without using flash (for full body groups)
Disadvantages: They will probably be squinty, you might get racoon eyes.
Examples:
Full Shade ISO 100 f5 1/500th HSS (what Canon calls focal plane shutter)
Lighting here is FOC + 430EX on a light stand 6 foot up fired wirelessly probably 4:1 ratio TTL. The ratio is rigged 4:1 so that the off camera light is the key, and the FOC becomes the fill.
Full Shade ISO 100 f4.5 1/125
Sunpak 622 diffusion head + FOC set "double Front". Off camera flash is on a lightstand bout 6 feet up, and 6 feet to my left, I use this flash in manual. I don't usually meter it, because I have feel for how hot the light should be, but basically if you metered it it should be between f4.5 and f5.6. Bascially this give an extra kick to your on camera flash, the second light is not directional here, just extra light. The ambient sunlight was metering at 1/250 @f8 so this exposure is a couple stops hot for the background, who cares? it is out of focus anyway.
ISO 100 f6.3 1/160
Fringe: I'm not totally happy with how this turned out...yeah there is a shadow of her nose on his cheek, but it is kind of cool, FOC + my alien bee fired into an umbrella on my left is balanced with the sun light on my right. This is a trap I fall into by not having an assistant, this light is perfect for an assistant to use a reflector.
ISO 100 f7.1 1/160
This is how fringe is supposed to go. Just FOC here, and to tell the truth might have been in program (it was cold) The flash is probably pumped to +2/3 - +1 EC.
I don't advocate shooting in full overhead outdoor sun. I always try to find SOME kind of shade, even if it is just a patch. If you let the light get a little longer, the outcome can be ok.
Thats my dad...how many people get to shoot their father's wedding? Obviously this is not back to sun, I'm using the sunset as light here, be careful of your shadow.
this is full sun...and it isn't so bad...but not really a "portrait"
let the full sun stuff be your fun stuff and you'll be fine, for the serious stuff...get thee to some shade, and PRACTICE getting the exposure right in all situations before the job.
Yeah definitely get a flash bracket if you are only using one flash, and don't have a diffuser. If your wedding is going to be all outside you can get away without it so long as you limit the number of vertical poses, and don't shoot close to a wall or something. I no longer use one because I use 2 lights, and I use a gary fong whale tail but for single flash operation they are essential.
hmmm - okie dokie. I'm assuming this keeps the flash out of direct line with faces?
Also what's to keep me from just making a bracket? Seems like all it is is just a metal arm that holds the flash above the camera - doesn't make sense to spend all that money for something I can make. Maybe there's more to it than I'm seeing?
P.S. - Art's right - I do recommend the Newton Bracket, the Di100FR2 Flash Rotator to be specific.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
wow $190. From the GIF on the page you posted, I can't really tell how far forward the bracket holds the flash. It's job is to hold it over the lens and not the camera? as in...holding it about 3 inches further forward than it would normally sit?
Nevermind, I see it now
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
And this thing really makes a huge difference huh? I'm asking as a user of standard equipment ...not all the fancy accessories
It's only the very tall brackets that will have a significant impact on red-eye reduction ... owing to distance between the flash and the subject. The further the subject, the greater the height of the bracket must be to have a significant impact.
Believe me, if you are shooting a wedding for money (or even for free for a friend), you really want some sort of bracket that allows the camera to rotate under the flash and keeps the aspect of the flash constant throughout that rotation. The value of the equipment is much greater than the cost. Find one you like and get it - there are lots out there that perform "properly" and many that are not suited to this application.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
well crap. thanks for everyone's advice. I'm still going to keep shooting so I can be ready for whatever event I have next.
Keep shooting - there's an idea
I'm looking forward to seeing what you do - so please post. I love to learn by shooting (when I can find the time) and studying other people's work.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
That sucks...
I had one wedding cancel on me for next year. The groom booked me, then just called up like 2 weeks before we were supposed to shoot engagement pics and said she called it off. I refunded his deposit and told him to keep me in mind if he arrives at that place in life again.
Poo happens I guess.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile