All Canon DSLRs come with the excellent suite of software tools on the CD. The browser (or Imagebrowser—Mac) lets you show the focus mode (AI Servo or One Shot) and the focus point it used. How about showing us a screen capture from one of your bad shots which prove the focus problem using this method?
I'll have to track down the cd, the software doesn't work properly on my computer anymore. It crashes everytime I start it up. I have Vista x64, that may be why. It probably doesn't support 64 bit. I'll try to get it to work though.
or.. should I sell my XSi body and a few lenses, and buy a nicer Canon Body, like a 40D, 50D or even a 5D mark II...
My friend has a D80, and his pictures end up looking way nicer than mine. And he doesn't even do photoshop work to it.
It's in the hands. Really get to know your tools. They will reward your time and effort. Some of my best shots ever were with my old XTi and 50mm f/1.4.
We have also had issues with Windows Vista 64 bit and other software programs. What were the "windows people" thinking?
Well, its not their fault, its software developers' fault for not supporting it.
Heres one of the pictures, granted I was in Auto mode, because I didn't feel like messing around with manual settings at the time. But you can clearly see that Canon, which was intended on being in focus, was clearly not, and instead the camera slightly focused on the shutter release buttons on the bat grip.
One of the downsides and upsides to using a 32" HDTV as your monitor is that windows become huge. I should recapture with the window smaller, but I'm too lazy and you can still see the camera settings.
It's in the hands. Really get to know your tools. They will reward your time and effort. Some of my best shots ever were with my old XTi and 50mm f/1.4.
PS: the spendier bodies only get LOUDER.
Yes, but their shutter noise isn't SHIIINNG, its a deep click. and i love that sound and would much prefer a very loud deep click over a high pitched shing any day.
Also the 50mm f/1.4 is waaay better than the 50mm f/1.8 that I have...
Heres one of the pictures, granted I was in Auto mode, because I didn't feel like messing around with manual settings at the time. But you can clearly see that Canon, which was intended on being in focus, was clearly not, and instead the camera slightly focused on the shutter release buttons on the bat grip.
You look awfully close. Again, I would question if you were below the minimum focusing distance. Auto mode, I believe, chooses focus mode for you, and according to your ZoomBrowser, DOESN'T tell you if it was in AI SERVO.
-edit. It wouldn't be solid red unless it had locked on something. Could you have moved slightly?
Also, I have not been able to take more than 2 consecutive pictures in a row. I keep reading that the xsi can take 3.5 frames a second, and it can take 75 pictures in a row... and I haven't been able to do this. Maybe my SD card isn't fast enough. 8GB Sandisk Extreme II 15 mb/s. I would think I could take more than 2 pictures in a row even with that. Is there a setting I need to change?
again, showing that I dont know as much as I thought I did.
Also, I have not been able to take more than 2 consecutive pictures in a row. I keep reading that the xsi can take 3.5 frames a second, and it can take 75 pictures in a row... and I haven't been able to do this. Maybe my SD card isn't fast enough. 8GB Sandisk Extreme II 15 mb/s. I would think I could take more than 2 pictures in a row even with that. Is there a setting I need to change?
quote]
Noise reduction will slow down the frame rate, as it's taking/comparing two shots at a time.
Constructive Criticism Welcome!
All photos are Copyrighted and Registered. Please don't use without permission.
5DSR 16-35 2.8L III 24-70 2.8L II 70-200 2.8L IS II
You look awfully close. Again, I would question if you were below the minimum focusing distance. Auto mode, I believe, chooses focus mode for you, and according to your ZoomBrowser, DOESN'T tell you if it was in AI SERVO.
-edit. It wouldn't be solid red unless it had locked on something. Could you have moved slightly?
I was zoomed in at 35mm, with my elbows resting on the arms of my chair, I was about 2 feet away. And I believe the min focus distance for my lens is .89 Feet. Cause its a "Macro" zoom lens. the promaster 17-50mm f/2.8 lens...
Also, I have not been able to take more than 2 consecutive pictures in a row. I keep reading that the xsi can take 3.5 frames a second, and it can take 75 pictures in a row... and I haven't been able to do this. Maybe my SD card isn't fast enough. 8GB Sandisk Extreme II 15 mb/s. I would think I could take more than 2 pictures in a row even with that. Is there a setting I need to change?
again, showing that I dont know as much as I thought I did.
erm... are you talking about changing the drive from single to continuous? (sorry don't mean to be presumptuous)
Ok, so people have provided many solutions and everytime, I notice that you have more issues with your camera. I feel that you have already made up your mind and are now looking for others to help justify it.
You really want a Nikon, that is my take on things. In your mind, you have purchased an inferior product and that will be something that is going to play with you for the life of this camera. You are irritated shooting with it, which takes away the fun and enjoyment of photography.
I would just say buy the new camera and sell this one. You have already convinced yourself to get a new camera!!
I would just say buy the new camera and sell this one. You have already convinced yourself to get a new camera!!
2 questions: how and what.
How do I sell it without getting screwed over?
And
What new camera should I get? are you saying get a new Nikon? or get a new 40D or 50D?
I need to be able to have the money in hand and have the new camera the same day I get rid of my old camera. Because I have customers that need their pictures taken and I cant have a gap where I dont have a camera to take their pictures.
I thought that this entire thread was about you asking about jumping over to Nikon??????
You were asking about jumping over, you liked your friends D80, you were not happy with your current camera, then people gave you ideas how to fix some of your issues, then you wanted to go to a 40d or 50d.
I just dont see what this thread is all about to tell you the truth. What do you want to do???
I thought that this entire thread was about you asking about jumping over to Nikon??????
You were asking about jumping over, you liked your friends D80, you were not happy with your current camera, then people gave you ideas how to fix some of your issues, then you wanted to go to a 40d or 50d.
I just dont see what this thread is all about to tell you the truth. What do you want to do???
It was, but I was convinced otherwise, so unless I find someone that is willing to purchase all of my Canon equipment, thats not going to happen.
So, like you suggested I'm going to try to sell my current body, and get a better canon body. AKA a 40D or 50D... but I cant get one unless someone either A. wants to trade for my equipment, or B. wants to buy my equipment so I can buy that new camera.
Or, if someone wants to switch from Nikon over to Canon, I'll trade my equipment for their equipment.
Since when does a thread have to have a purpose? cant people just talk?
ok, well... I guess I cant sell my camera. so that plan went straight out the window.
I guess I'll just have to save up for it... $150 every two weeks minus $100 every month... hmm I should be able to get it in ohh.... 6-10 months... PERFECT... just when I want it. (extreme sarcasm right there if you didn't pick it up :smack)
anyone want to donate money to my camera fund? theres about $70 in there right now and I need waaaay more than that.
Is it really a fix for a truly back-focusing lens, though? I was thinking it was more of a refinement procedure for lenses that were at least mostly doing their job. Either way, it sounds like a nifty feature.
Elaine
Comments and constructive critique always welcome!
ok, well... I guess I cant sell my camera. so that plan went straight out the window.
I guess I'll just have to save up for it... $150 every two weeks minus $100 every month... hmm I should be able to get it in ohh.... 6-10 months... PERFECT... just when I want it. (extreme sarcasm right there if you didn't pick it up :smack)
anyone want to donate money to my camera fund? theres about $70 in there right now and I need waaaay more than that.
This thread is too strange.
You have "proved" that the camera is faulty, right down to the shutter sound, and now you want to offload it onto some other poor guy?
Surely it should be returned, together with your " evidence" , to Canon, for a refund. There's some money for the passage to Nikon.
Is it really a fix for a truly back-focusing lens, though? I was thinking it was more of a refinement procedure for lenses that were at least mostly doing their job. Either way, it sounds like a nifty feature.
Yeah, it's called "micro-adjustment", and most people who have used it in the forums seem to take that to mean fine tuning of AF, rather than correcting a lens-body calibration problem.
If you have focus and noise problems because of your camera ... get a better camera. Simple as that.
“To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
― Edward Weston
Any thought about sending your body and the lens to Canon to have them checked out? I suspect a minor focus adjustment would really make a big difference in your shots. Write them a letter explaining that you just realized this problem. It should be a minor adjustment that they should cover under warranty.
As to the sound of the shutter bothering you, I can't comment on that.
Any thought about sending your body and the lens to Canon to have them checked out? I suspect a minor focus adjustment would really make a big difference in your shots. Write them a letter explaining that you just realized this problem. It should be a minor adjustment that they should cover under warranty.
As to the sound of the shutter bothering you, I can't comment on that.
yes, but if I send it in, then I wont have a camera for... 2-6 weeks. Could I take it back to best buy. I got the 4 year Geek Squad warranty, which covers pretty much everything. And they'll give me a new camera instead of fixing mine. Now I just gotta find that dang reciept:cry.
Also, NeilL, how would I go about returning my camera to Canon? never heard of anyone doing this.
Also, I haven't sent in my warranty card... could I still send it in for calibration and stuff?
yes, but if I send it in, then I wont have a camera for... 2-6 weeks. Could I take it back to best buy. I got the 4 year Geek Squad warranty, which covers pretty much everything. And they'll give me a new camera instead of fixing mine.
I highly doubt Best Buy will just give you a new camera. If you are under your 1 year Canon warranty, your best bet is to send the camera and a lens to Canon with examples of the focus issues you are having. They will calibrate your camera and/or lens.
You have to just suck it up and do this. You have a decent camera, it is just not working correctly.
As to not having a camera for a few weeks, this is an example of why pro photographers always have backup equipment. You are fortunate that you are not a pro with a big event coming up. Just think of how happy you will be when your camera returns from Canon fully calibrated and sharp as a tack.
Comments
Atlanta, GA USA
my smugmug
Atlanta Modern Wedding Photographer
SheriJohnsonPhotography.com
I'll have to track down the cd, the software doesn't work properly on my computer anymore. It crashes everytime I start it up. I have Vista x64, that may be why. It probably doesn't support 64 bit. I'll try to get it to work though.
Atlanta, GA USA
my smugmug
Atlanta Modern Wedding Photographer
SheriJohnsonPhotography.com
It's in the hands. Really get to know your tools. They will reward your time and effort. Some of my best shots ever were with my old XTi and 50mm f/1.4.
PS: the spendier bodies only get LOUDER.
Heres one of the pictures, granted I was in Auto mode, because I didn't feel like messing around with manual settings at the time. But you can clearly see that Canon, which was intended on being in focus, was clearly not, and instead the camera slightly focused on the shutter release buttons on the bat grip.
One of the downsides and upsides to using a 32" HDTV as your monitor is that windows become huge. I should recapture with the window smaller, but I'm too lazy and you can still see the camera settings.
Yes, but their shutter noise isn't SHIIINNG, its a deep click. and i love that sound and would much prefer a very loud deep click over a high pitched shing any day.
Also the 50mm f/1.4 is waaay better than the 50mm f/1.8 that I have...
You look awfully close. Again, I would question if you were below the minimum focusing distance. Auto mode, I believe, chooses focus mode for you, and according to your ZoomBrowser, DOESN'T tell you if it was in AI SERVO.
-edit. It wouldn't be solid red unless it had locked on something. Could you have moved slightly?
again, showing that I dont know as much as I thought I did.
All photos are Copyrighted and Registered. Please don't use without permission.
5DSR 16-35 2.8L III 24-70 2.8L II 70-200 2.8L IS II
I was zoomed in at 35mm, with my elbows resting on the arms of my chair, I was about 2 feet away. And I believe the min focus distance for my lens is .89 Feet. Cause its a "Macro" zoom lens. the promaster 17-50mm f/2.8 lens...
erm... are you talking about changing the drive from single to continuous? (sorry don't mean to be presumptuous)
HA! wow, I just took 300 pictures in about 40 seconds... lol ... ok so that problem is fixed.
No lol... I'm not that dumb.
You really want a Nikon, that is my take on things. In your mind, you have purchased an inferior product and that will be something that is going to play with you for the life of this camera. You are irritated shooting with it, which takes away the fun and enjoyment of photography.
I would just say buy the new camera and sell this one. You have already convinced yourself to get a new camera!!
Good luck
Sorry, had to ask.:D
2 questions: how and what.
How do I sell it without getting screwed over?
And
What new camera should I get? are you saying get a new Nikon? or get a new 40D or 50D?
I need to be able to have the money in hand and have the new camera the same day I get rid of my old camera. Because I have customers that need their pictures taken and I cant have a gap where I dont have a camera to take their pictures.
Make me an offer I can't refuse.
All photos are Copyrighted and Registered. Please don't use without permission.
5DSR 16-35 2.8L III 24-70 2.8L II 70-200 2.8L IS II
Offer PM'd... Doubt you'll accept it though.
You were asking about jumping over, you liked your friends D80, you were not happy with your current camera, then people gave you ideas how to fix some of your issues, then you wanted to go to a 40d or 50d.
I just dont see what this thread is all about to tell you the truth. What do you want to do???
It was, but I was convinced otherwise, so unless I find someone that is willing to purchase all of my Canon equipment, thats not going to happen.
So, like you suggested I'm going to try to sell my current body, and get a better canon body. AKA a 40D or 50D... but I cant get one unless someone either A. wants to trade for my equipment, or B. wants to buy my equipment so I can buy that new camera.
Or, if someone wants to switch from Nikon over to Canon, I'll trade my equipment for their equipment.
Since when does a thread have to have a purpose? cant people just talk?
Edit: sweet... 100th post!!
Hopefully it all works out for you
The 50D can.
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
I guess I'll just have to save up for it... $150 every two weeks minus $100 every month... hmm I should be able to get it in ohh.... 6-10 months... PERFECT... just when I want it. (extreme sarcasm right there if you didn't pick it up :smack)
anyone want to donate money to my camera fund?
Is it really a fix for a truly back-focusing lens, though? I was thinking it was more of a refinement procedure for lenses that were at least mostly doing their job.
Comments and constructive critique always welcome!
Elaine Heasley Photography
This thread is too strange.
You have "proved" that the camera is faulty, right down to the shutter sound, and now you want to offload it onto some other poor guy?
Surely it should be returned, together with your " evidence" , to Canon, for a refund.
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
Yeah, it's called "micro-adjustment", and most people who have used it in the forums seem to take that to mean fine tuning of AF, rather than correcting a lens-body calibration problem.
Like you I think it's a very desirable feature.
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
― Edward Weston
As to the sound of the shutter bothering you, I can't comment on that.
http://clearwaterphotography.smugmug.com/
yes, but if I send it in, then I wont have a camera for... 2-6 weeks. Could I take it back to best buy. I got the 4 year Geek Squad warranty, which covers pretty much everything. And they'll give me a new camera instead of fixing mine. Now I just gotta find that dang reciept:cry.
Also, NeilL, how would I go about returning my camera to Canon? never heard of anyone doing this.
Also, I haven't sent in my warranty card... could I still send it in for calibration and stuff?
I highly doubt Best Buy will just give you a new camera. If you are under your 1 year Canon warranty, your best bet is to send the camera and a lens to Canon with examples of the focus issues you are having. They will calibrate your camera and/or lens.
You have to just suck it up and do this. You have a decent camera, it is just not working correctly.
As to not having a camera for a few weeks, this is an example of why pro photographers always have backup equipment. You are fortunate that you are not a pro with a big event coming up. Just think of how happy you will be when your camera returns from Canon fully calibrated and sharp as a tack.
http://clearwaterphotography.smugmug.com/