-great mood and mystery
-great light (sidelight and starlight)
-good contrast and color (blues)
-low noise
-good FG placement (adds depth)
nit
-photo is a tad busy on the left side of the photo
-clipped water on the left side of the photo is a bit of a distraction
-photo has a slight tilt to the left (when placed on grid)
tweak
-cropped the left side of the photo to remove some of the clutter
and made sky to 1/3 rule
-toned down (burn) the clipped water on the left
-straightened the photo
-enhanced these areas, lightened (dodge)
1-the rock in the center right in open water and its surrounding white water
2-the stone work on the right close to land
3-the grass in the bottom right corner to catch some of the sidelighting
4-the two blue lights in the FG water that adds to the mystery of this photo
I've liked what I've seen so far, great job Dwayne. Here is one of mine...
The classic place !
good
-great classic comp
-great classic place
-great rainbow
-good DOF
nit
-WB is on the cool side (blue colorcast)
-photo is a tad underexposed by 1/3 Ev (still room left on the histogram)
-photo is a tad flat (lacks contrast)
-dark shadow in bottom right corner a bit of a distraction
-photo is a tad soft
tweaks
-set the WB to a warmer setting
-moved levels (whitepoint) slider to lighten the photo (used room left on the histogram)
-added contrast boost to both mountains
-healed out the shadow in the bottom right corner
-added a tad of USM
enhanced these areas
1-added more saturation to the rainbow
2-added more saturation to the iron deposits on the top of the right mountain
3-lightened (dodge) both sides of the valley but not the bottom to
improve overall exposure and add some light drama to the photo
Dwayne, are you literally using the dodge and burn tools? Or are you just using the terms generically? Because those tools... :puke
Good evening Dave,
I use, in Nikon land called (color control point) tool or u-point technology.
It is basically one stop shopping for all of your tweaks, very powerful yet
simple to use.
Were as dodge and burn tools in PS you have to switch back and forth
between tools I think but I could be wrong.
-good 1/3 rule comp (sky vs land)
-good FG placement (adds depth)
-exposure is right on
-good contrast
-nice natural colors
-clouds are not clipped
-nice tree line
-nice sky
nit
-photo is to busy on both sides of the field
-photo is soft (use tripod and self timer on a calm day)
-photo has a slight tilt to the left (when placed on grid)
tweak
-cropped field clutter out (2 versions)
-straightened photo
-healed out garbage can ? near center of photo at the tree line
-healed out some bent grass in the FG (second photo)
-great mood and mystery
-great light (sidelight and starlight)
-good contrast and color (blues)
-low noise
-good FG placement (adds depth)
nit
-photo is a tad busy on the left side of the photo
-clipped water on the left side of the photo is a bit of a distraction
-photo has a slight tilt to the left (when placed on grid)
tweak
-cropped the left side of the photo to remove some of the clutter
and made sky to 1/3 rule
-toned down (burn) the clipped water on the left
-straightened the photo
-enhanced these areas, lightened (dodge)
1-the rock in the center right in open water and its surrounding white water
2-the stone work on the right close to land
3-the grass in the bottom right corner to catch some of the sidelighting
4-the two blue lights in the FG water that adds to the mystery of this photo
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
I don't like the crop at all. I think the original is much better. And I prefer the white water on the left. I didn't perceive it to be blown out in the original.
More Photography . . . Less Photoshop [. . . except when I do it] Jeff Meyers
I don't like the crop at all. I think the original is much better. And I prefer the white water on the left. I didn't perceive it to be blown out in the original.
Thank you Jeff for your comments and views on the crop in this one.
-great comp
-another amazing place
-good detail (sharp)
-good DOF
nit
-sides of photo to dark (do to meter being tricked by the bright sky and MG
-photo is tad flat (lacks contrast)
-photo lacks color vibrance
-clouds are clipped
-railing is a bit of a distraction
tweak
-lightened these areas (dodge)
1-the right and left sides of the photo
2-the tips of the tress on the right and some on the left
-added a tad of contrast boost
-added a tad of saturation boost
-toned down the clipped clouds a bit
-changed the WB in the valley to get rid of some of the (blue color cast)
also improved the contrast and color in the valley
-healed out the railing in the FG left
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Dwayne, this is a fun thread. It's interesting to see how post techniques affect photos and chat about it all. Thanks!
I'm jumping in at this point because your interpretation of eMOJO's shot is an example of how eyes are trained to expect things to be familiar.
This is a shot of a eucalypt forest in the temperate coastal region of north eastern Australia. So not inland alpine cold climate northern hemisphere.
These forests are not grass green. They are a very dull olive brown. They create a humid atmosphere above them which is laden with volatile oils. The result is a very pretty, bluish complexion visible at a distance, as in eMOJO's photo. A feature of this environment not to be treated as a color cast.
I think we can recognise when the conventions of photography come very close to being the walls of mediocrity. In your own work that I have seen you seem to have the philosophy of respect for found light on nature's stage. I think this is right!
I've argued before that each place demands its own personality, its own photographic vocabulary and way of being seen. Australia's cities and environment need to be seen and photographed with eyes made new from the encounter with them, not though imported glasses.
Australia has nowhere near the spectacle of new and developing geology, and cold climate, that many of the most photographed places in the US and the world have. It doesn't have northern hemisphere flora and fauna. It is extremely old and quiet, mostly flat, arid and infertile. It's way beyond any post processing makeover.
However, of course it has beauty, nature takes care of that! But beauty which is only distantly related to the other members of nature's farflung family.
Dwayne, this is a fun thread. It's interesting to see how post techniques affect photos and chat about it all. Thanks!
I'm jumping in at this point because your interpretation of eMOJO's shot is an example of how eyes are trained to expect things to be familiar.
This is a shot of a eucalypt forest in the temperate coastal region of north eastern Australia. So not inland alpine cold climate northern hemisphere.
These forests are not grass green. They are a very dull olive brown. They create a humid atmosphere above them which is laden with volatile oils. The result is a very pretty, bluish complexion visible at a distance, as in eMOJO's photo. A feature of this environment not to be treated as a color cast.
I think we can recognise when the conventions of photography come very close to being the walls of mediocrity. In your own work that I have seen you seem to have the philosophy of respect for found light on nature's stage. I think this is right!
I've argued before that each place demands its own personality, its own photographic vocabulary and way of being seen. Australia's cities and environment need to be seen and photographed with eyes made new from the encounter with them, not though imported glasses.
Australia has nowhere near the spectacle of new and developing geology, and cold climate, that many of the most photographed places in the US and the world have. It doesn't have northern hemisphere flora and fauna. It is extremely old and quiet, mostly flat, arid and infertile. It's way beyond any post processing makeover.
However, of course it has beauty, nature takes care of that! But beauty which is only distantly related to the other members of nature's farflung family.
Very well said and great insite and based on this new info here is
a re-tweak. Same tweaks but without the color boost and the blue
color cast is left intact. Thanks again.
-nice mood (misty water)
-nice pastel colors
-good FG placement (the rocks add depth)
-horizon is level
-nit
-FG rocks to dark
tweak
-lightened (dodge) the rocks in the FG
-made a homemade sun hot spot just off center in the orange part
of the sky (clipped on purpose) to add more light drama to the photo
-added a glow (dodge) to the rocks on the left in open water
-nice mood (misty water)
-nice pastel colors
-good FG placement (the rocks add depth)
-horizon is level
-nit
-FG rocks to dark
tweak
-lightened (dodge) the rocks in the FG
-made a homemade sun hot spot just off center in the orange part
of the sky (clipped on purpose) to add more light drama to the photo
-added a glow (dodge) to the rocks on the left in open water
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
before after
Thanks Dwayne, looks good, I haven't use dodge/burn much I might have a go with it when I get home tonight on the original file. You've given me some ideas
I'm just getting started with photo uploading and photography in general. I've always been interested but just recently got a DSLR to work with so the hobby has picked up.
My first post here.. could you tell me what you think of this shot I took on the weekend. All my pp is done in Aperture but I've only straightened, bumped the exposure up a little, and increased the highlights in this shot.
I'm just getting started with photo uploading and photography in general. I've always been interested but just recently got a DSLR to work with so the hobby has picked up.
My first post here.. could you tell me what you think of this shot I took on the weekend. All my pp is done in Aperture but I've only straightened, bumped the exposure up a little, and increased the highlights in this shot.
Thanks
[edit: how do i change the pixel size of the image without reducing the size of the original on my photo bucket account]
Hi Karl,
I don't use Aperture but you should be able to export the image with a smaller size, in DPP it is convert and save for a single image. For my image above I exported it to be 900 high and I think about 5 or 6 jpg quality and then uploaded to the site. That one you have that is mighty large. If you like I can resize the one you have there if you run into problems.
I don't use Aperture but you should be able to export the image with a smaller size, in DPP it is convert and save for a single image. For my image above I exported it to be 900 high and I think about 5 or 6 jpg quality and then uploaded to the site. That one you have that is mighty large. If you like I can resize the one you have there if you run into problems.
The limit on this site is 1200 wide/tall as well.
Let me know.
Dan
Thanks Dan,
I've changed my export settings to max 800 high/wide and re-uploaded the file. I guess I don't need it to be so big online anyway.
I'm just getting started with photo uploading and photography in general. I've always been interested but just recently got a DSLR to work with so the hobby has picked up.
My first post here.. could you tell me what you think of this shot I took on the weekend. All my pp is done in Aperture but I've only straightened, bumped the exposure up a little, and increased the highlights in this shot.
Thanks
Wow what a great photo and place ! Great job Karl !
A little clipping in the clouds but other than that a technically
flawless photo. I can offer some finite tweaks to add to this
amazing place.
tweak
-lightened (dodge) these areas
1-the 3 highest surf points in the BG
2-the water reflection
3-the light coming through the far right side of the cave
4-the cloud right above the cave
-added a tad of global contrast boost
-added a tad of USM (sharpening) to just the water reflection
-healed out the clipped cloud
Wow what a great photo and place ! Great job Karl !
A little clipping in the clouds but other than that a technically
flawless photo. I can offer some finite tweaks to add to this
amazing place.
tweak
-lightened (dodge) these areas
1-the 3 highest surf points in the BG
2-the water reflection
3-the light coming through the far right side of the cave
4-the cloud right above the cave
-added a tad of global contrast boost
-added a tad of USM (sharpening) to just the water reflection
-healed out the clipped cloud
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Thanks for the comments Dwayne,
A few questions.. I need a little explanation on the jargon.
What is meant by the term Clipping and what does USM stand for?
Also, what application are you using to edit? does the dodge tool in Photoshop do the same thing (lighten)? I presume you were able to specify areas to sharpen and lighten?
A few questions.. I need a little explanation on the jargon.
What is meant by the term Clipping and what does USM stand for?
Also, what application are you using to edit? does the dodge tool in Photoshop do the same thing (lighten)? I presume you were able to specify areas to sharpen and lighten?
I'm still just a newbie in PP at the moment.
Thanks,
Karl
Hi Karl,
CLIPPING-means in this case the cloud is overexposed and is pure white
(255) and lacks any detail. This is typical in harsh lighting. Google
this topic as it is important to manage this aspect of digital photography.
A little trick I use alot is just to heal or clone out these clipped areas.
Also google histogram as it plays a part in understanding your exposures.
USM-stands for unsharp mask and is a tool used to (sharpen) the photo
digitally but you should try to get your sharpness in the field first
using a tripod, the self timer and shoot on calm days, USM can only
fix so much so the tendency is to over use it (oversharpen).
I use Nikon Capture NX2 software.
Yes the dodge tool in PS does the same thing.
Goole each term there is alot of info on them and they are not
that hard to learn and you should be up in running in no time.
Keep practicing !
This one's dirty, but that's just the way this storm blew in. What can you do with it?
Another awesome place and photo ! Great job !
good
-near perfect photo (comp, colors, exposure, DOF, contrast and
detail all look good)
nit
-even with dust from the storm the photo seems a tad noisy
-lens abbreviation shown up on the outline of the left cactus (typical
and not a big deal)
-sensor dust in the top left of the photo
-mark on the right cactus could be healed out
tweak
-left the lens abbreviation in as the tool effects other aspects of the photo
-healed out the sensor dust
-healed out the mark on the cactus on the right
-enhanced these areas
1-lightened (dodge) the bush in the far left of the photo
2-added more color saturation to just the base of the rainbow
-darkened the photo a tad to add more drama using midtone (levels) slider
-added a tad of global contrast boost
-added a tad of USM to get over the AA filter
-put photo through NR software
Wow Dwayne, you do an amazing job fixing peoples photos. I have learned a lot from watching you work your magic. This is one of the most informative threads I have seen.
Comments
Wow what a cool photo !
good
-great mood and mystery
-great light (sidelight and starlight)
-good contrast and color (blues)
-low noise
-good FG placement (adds depth)
nit
-photo is a tad busy on the left side of the photo
-clipped water on the left side of the photo is a bit of a distraction
-photo has a slight tilt to the left (when placed on grid)
tweak
-cropped the left side of the photo to remove some of the clutter
and made sky to 1/3 rule
-toned down (burn) the clipped water on the left
-straightened the photo
-enhanced these areas, lightened (dodge)
1-the rock in the center right in open water and its surrounding white water
2-the stone work on the right close to land
3-the grass in the bottom right corner to catch some of the sidelighting
4-the two blue lights in the FG water that adds to the mystery of this photo
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
The classic place !
good
-great classic comp
-great classic place
-great rainbow
-good DOF
nit
-WB is on the cool side (blue colorcast)
-photo is a tad underexposed by 1/3 Ev (still room left on the histogram)
-photo is a tad flat (lacks contrast)
-dark shadow in bottom right corner a bit of a distraction
-photo is a tad soft
tweaks
-set the WB to a warmer setting
-moved levels (whitepoint) slider to lighten the photo (used room left on the histogram)
-added contrast boost to both mountains
-healed out the shadow in the bottom right corner
-added a tad of USM
enhanced these areas
1-added more saturation to the rainbow
2-added more saturation to the iron deposits on the top of the right mountain
3-lightened (dodge) both sides of the valley but not the bottom to
improve overall exposure and add some light drama to the photo
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Good evening Dave,
I use, in Nikon land called (color control point) tool or u-point technology.
It is basically one stop shopping for all of your tweaks, very powerful yet
simple to use.
Were as dodge and burn tools in PS you have to switch back and forth
between tools I think but I could be wrong.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
This is my first attempt at Landscape photography.
I would like to get your input on this.
Thank you
Mohan
TIMG_8374.jpg
Hi Mohan,
Very good first photo ! You got the right idea.
good
-good 1/3 rule comp (sky vs land)
-good FG placement (adds depth)
-exposure is right on
-good contrast
-nice natural colors
-clouds are not clipped
-nice tree line
-nice sky
nit
-photo is to busy on both sides of the field
-photo is soft (use tripod and self timer on a calm day)
-photo has a slight tilt to the left (when placed on grid)
tweak
-cropped field clutter out (2 versions)
-straightened photo
-healed out garbage can ? near center of photo at the tree line
-healed out some bent grass in the FG (second photo)
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Kristine
I don't like the crop at all. I think the original is much better. And I prefer the white water on the left. I didn't perceive it to be blown out in the original.
Jeff Meyers
Beautiful landscape photo, place and light !
The only thing I would improve on this great photo is to open up the
foreground a tad it seems dark.
tweaks
lightened (dodge) these areas
1-the entire FG
2-I made some homemade grass highlights on the right
3-below the tree closest to the sun
4-added a tad of global contrast boost
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Thank you Jeff for your comments and views on the crop in this one.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Kristine
Dwayne, this is a fun thread. It's interesting to see how post techniques affect photos and chat about it all. Thanks!
I'm jumping in at this point because your interpretation of eMOJO's shot is an example of how eyes are trained to expect things to be familiar.
This is a shot of a eucalypt forest in the temperate coastal region of north eastern Australia. So not inland alpine cold climate northern hemisphere.
These forests are not grass green. They are a very dull olive brown. They create a humid atmosphere above them which is laden with volatile oils. The result is a very pretty, bluish complexion visible at a distance, as in eMOJO's photo. A feature of this environment not to be treated as a color cast.
I think we can recognise when the conventions of photography come very close to being the walls of mediocrity. In your own work that I have seen you seem to have the philosophy of respect for found light on nature's stage. I think this is right!
I've argued before that each place demands its own personality, its own photographic vocabulary and way of being seen. Australia's cities and environment need to be seen and photographed with eyes made new from the encounter with them, not though imported glasses.
Australia has nowhere near the spectacle of new and developing geology, and cold climate, that many of the most photographed places in the US and the world have. It doesn't have northern hemisphere flora and fauna. It is extremely old and quiet, mostly flat, arid and infertile. It's way beyond any post processing makeover.
However, of course it has beauty, nature takes care of that!
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
Very well said and great insite and based on this new info here is
a re-tweak. Same tweaks but without the color boost and the blue
color cast is left intact. Thanks again.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
I would love to see what you can do with and CC on this shot. I pretty much only have DPP to process with and GIMP.
Middle Rock Pastells.JPG
Thanks
Dan
Very nice Dan.
good
-nice mood (misty water)
-nice pastel colors
-good FG placement (the rocks add depth)
-horizon is level
-nit
-FG rocks to dark
tweak
-lightened (dodge) the rocks in the FG
-made a homemade sun hot spot just off center in the orange part
of the sky (clipped on purpose) to add more light drama to the photo
-added a glow (dodge) to the rocks on the left in open water
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
before
Thanks Dwayne, looks good, I haven't use dodge/burn much I might have a go with it when I get home tonight on the original file. You've given me some ideas
Hi Dwayne,
I'm just getting started with photo uploading and photography in general. I've always been interested but just recently got a DSLR to work with so the hobby has picked up.
My first post here.. could you tell me what you think of this shot I took on the weekend. All my pp is done in Aperture but I've only straightened, bumped the exposure up a little, and increased the highlights in this shot.
Thanks
Nikon D600
Samyang 14mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 | Nikkor 50mm f/1.8
Induro CT-014 Tripod
karllindsayphotography.com | Photos on Facebook | 500px
Hi Karl,
I don't use Aperture but you should be able to export the image with a smaller size, in DPP it is convert and save for a single image. For my image above I exported it to be 900 high and I think about 5 or 6 jpg quality and then uploaded to the site. That one you have that is mighty large. If you like I can resize the one you have there if you run into problems.
The limit on this site is 1200 wide/tall as well.
Let me know.
Dan
Thanks Dan,
I've changed my export settings to max 800 high/wide and re-uploaded the file. I guess I don't need it to be so big online anyway.
Karl
Nikon D600
Samyang 14mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 | Nikkor 50mm f/1.8
Induro CT-014 Tripod
karllindsayphotography.com | Photos on Facebook | 500px
Wow what a great photo and place ! Great job Karl !
A little clipping in the clouds but other than that a technically
flawless photo. I can offer some finite tweaks to add to this
amazing place.
tweak
-lightened (dodge) these areas
1-the 3 highest surf points in the BG
2-the water reflection
3-the light coming through the far right side of the cave
4-the cloud right above the cave
-added a tad of global contrast boost
-added a tad of USM (sharpening) to just the water reflection
-healed out the clipped cloud
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Thanks for the comments Dwayne,
A few questions.. I need a little explanation on the jargon.
What is meant by the term Clipping and what does USM stand for?
Also, what application are you using to edit? does the dodge tool in Photoshop do the same thing (lighten)? I presume you were able to specify areas to sharpen and lighten?
I'm still just a newbie in PP at the moment.
Thanks,
Karl
Nikon D600
Samyang 14mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 | Nikkor 50mm f/1.8
Induro CT-014 Tripod
karllindsayphotography.com | Photos on Facebook | 500px
Hi Karl,
CLIPPING-means in this case the cloud is overexposed and is pure white
(255) and lacks any detail. This is typical in harsh lighting. Google
this topic as it is important to manage this aspect of digital photography.
A little trick I use alot is just to heal or clone out these clipped areas.
Also google histogram as it plays a part in understanding your exposures.
USM-stands for unsharp mask and is a tool used to (sharpen) the photo
digitally but you should try to get your sharpness in the field first
using a tripod, the self timer and shoot on calm days, USM can only
fix so much so the tendency is to over use it (oversharpen).
I use Nikon Capture NX2 software.
Yes the dodge tool in PS does the same thing.
Goole each term there is alot of info on them and they are not
that hard to learn and you should be up in running in no time.
Keep practicing !
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
Will look into it.
Nikon D600
Samyang 14mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 | Nikkor 50mm f/1.8
Induro CT-014 Tripod
karllindsayphotography.com | Photos on Facebook | 500px
Another awesome place and photo ! Great job !
good
-near perfect photo (comp, colors, exposure, DOF, contrast and
detail all look good)
nit
-even with dust from the storm the photo seems a tad noisy
-lens abbreviation shown up on the outline of the left cactus (typical
and not a big deal)
-sensor dust in the top left of the photo
-mark on the right cactus could be healed out
tweak
-left the lens abbreviation in as the tool effects other aspects of the photo
-healed out the sensor dust
-healed out the mark on the cactus on the right
-enhanced these areas
1-lightened (dodge) the bush in the far left of the photo
2-added more color saturation to just the base of the rainbow
-darkened the photo a tad to add more drama using midtone (levels) slider
-added a tad of global contrast boost
-added a tad of USM to get over the AA filter
-put photo through NR software
Hope this helps and thanks for posting.
Take care,
Dwayne Oakes
--Thor