Noise Issue PLEASE HELP

rickp · May 30, 2010

Ok guys and gals, I’m having an issue that has happened more than once now and it’s really frustrating me.

I first noticed it shooting my 50D and what’s happening is my images have some noise in them. I’m not shooting these at night, they were shot in the middle of the day with an in AV mode and an ISO of 100.

Now here is the part that’s very frustrating, the same thing happened to me yesterday shooting my new 7D in the middle of the day also in AV mode with an ISO of 100 for the most part. The lens I was using was 24-105mm f4.0 or a 17-55mm f2.8 lens. It happens with either lens.

Can someone please tell me what’s going on??
Does weather have anything to do with it. I’m down in south florida and it’s hot and humid during the shoots. Here’s the other kicker, that I cant’ figure out, distance. I took a couple of pictures and I was standing about 4-5 feet and those images came out tack-sharp. I mean i can blowup that image 200-300% and it still looks just perfect. This really confuses me. I don’t think it’s the camera and I can’t think on anything I’m doing wrong.
I’m also calling Canon today to get their take on it.
I’m including some images so you can see what I’m talking about. I have more posted as well.

I have one more image here shot with my 50D: http://s357.photobucket.com/albums/oo11/rickp1/Noise%20issue/

Please any help will be greatly appreciated. This is driving me nuts.

1st Image Exif
Lens: 24-105mm f 4.0 L series
Exposure: 1/60
ISO:100
Metering: Evaluative
Focal Length: 34mm
Aperture: f4.0
WB: Cloudy
distance to subject: 4.5m

Image 2

Image 2
Lens: 17-55mm f2.8
Exposure: 1/10
ISO:200
Metering: Evaluative
Focal Length: 40mm
Aperture: f22
WB: Cloudy
distance to subject: 73m

dlplumer · May 30, 2010

Are you shooting RAW?

Are these cropped?

CynthiaM · May 30, 2010

Don't forget to keep an eye on you shutter speed with regard to your focal length which may be an issue in your second image, the boats. As a general rule, you should try to keep your shutter speed equal to a fraction of 1 over the focal length. Some might add that with a crop sensor such as the 50d and 7d, the fraction should be 1/focal length x 1.6 crop factor. So if your focal length is close to 75 as in the second image, then your shutter speed should be close to 1/125; with the image stabilization maybe a little less. But your shutter speed on that images was 1/10. So what you are probably seeing is a result of camera shake. If you open up your aperture (on an image like this something between f/11 to f/16 should work) and then you should see your shutter speed increase. If you can't get a fast enough shutter speed, then you have to up the iso. It's a constant dance between shutter speed, aperture and iso to insure a shutter speed fast enough for your focal length.

Now with regard to your first image, the shutter speed is probably adequate, but what are you using for your focus point? By default, these cameras will select their own focus point and many find that they are better off to choose their own. If you are not familiar with this, I would suggest that you read in the manual how to select the focus point and set it for the center. If that is not the area that you want in focus you can hold the shutter halfway to get focus lock on what you want, then recompose. Initially, I think you will find that easier than selecting an off center focus point but as you get better with the camera, then you can be more specific and select a very precise focus point but don't forget to put it back to center when finished. The center focus point should work well for most instances except if you are in very close range.

The only other thing I can think of with your first image is that the aperture is f/4 which is the widest for the 24-105 and generally with any lens you will get the sharpest image with an aperture that is in the middle of the range. but the 24-105 is a great lens, i have it and you should be able to get a sharp image at the extreme apertures so my guess is a focus point issue.

Hope that helps,

jonh68 · May 30, 2010

The pictures look underexposed. It doesn't matter what ISO you are using if the exposure isn't correct. Personally, I have found if I play loose to ISO and don't strictly adhere to using low ISO in the daytime, exposure and noise look better even at ISO 800 in daylight.

The first picture is a high contrast pic with the subject in shadows. Looks like you were not exposing for the subject but the white cap she was wearing. Using fill flash would have helped.

Why would you even be shooting at f22, 1/10 ss on what looks like a cloudy day?

craig_d · May 30, 2010

The softness in the second picture is probably caused by diffraction due to your decision to shoot at f/22. The diffraction limit on the 50D and 7D is in the vicinity of f/7. You could probably shoot f/11 without noticeable loss of sharpness, but f/22, no way.

By comparison, the diffraction limit on my 5D Mark II is about f/10 and I find that f/16 is as far as I can go without noticeable loss of sharpness.

rickp · May 30, 2010

First off, thank you to all that took the time to reply. I was able to follow the replies from my phone.

Yes I shoot in raw and I cropped the images enough to get the full 100% preview. Other than that there's no PP on them.

I got the soft image point some of you made and that I should increase the shutter speed, but what exactly is a soft image.

The second part is what really confused me. Shooting in AV mode.

I was under the impression that by shooting AV mode all I really had to worry about was how much depth of field I wanted to achieve, and that the camera would configure the correct shutter speed. BTW I also usually meter using evaluative metering, again based on circumstance.
I shoot mainly in AV mode so do you mean to increase shutter speed by adjusting the ISO or aperture?? Is that the case?
Also, if under exposed how is increasing shutter speed helping, wont that underexpose it further?

Also the only reason I shoot in f22 is because I wanted to ensure the whole image was in focus, and actually it was a bit of a test. I usually shoot at f8 since it;s my understanding that its the best aperture for most lenses.

One user suggested I make sure I use the correct focus points. That is one part of my (sad) process I made sure I was doing properly. My focus point was dead on my subject on every image I took.

Back to the shutter speed. As I was out taking pictures with the family this afternoon, I paid attention to the AV shutter speed compared to the manual mode and I did notice quite a difference. The shutter speed in AV mode was much lower at times. Since I dont' know how to control the speed in AV mode I shot in manual for the most part. I also usually shoot at ISO 100 based on the rule that we should shoot with the lowest ISO as possible based on the situation.

Here's another question based on the comments and aperture settings I used while shooting on a sunny day.
I know it can all be different based on shooting situations. Today I tried to use the 16 rule. But can you guys give me any tips on what settings to dial when shooting in a sunny day, or what are the range of normal numbers on a sunny day? Also, is there any reference material I can read on this. Like I said I thought shooting in AV mode was pretty straight forward, but I guess not.

I'm sure by now you've gathered that I really don't have a clue what I'm doing. I just enjoy photography and I'm trying to teach myself how to do it. Please explain things to me as if teaching a very new photographer how to achieve perfect images.

Again thank you for all the help
R.

divamum · May 30, 2010

Ok....

I was under the impression that by shooting AV mode all I really had to worry about was how much depth of field I wanted to achieve, and that the camera would configure the correct shutter speed. BTW I also usually meter using evaluative metering, again based on circumstance.

The camera will choose the correct shutter speed FOR A CORRECT EXPOSURE. In other words, to let the correct amount of LIGHT into the camera. What it won't do is decide what shutter speed is sufficient for you to handhold whatever lens you're using. That's up to you - you can either readjust the ap/ss values so that you can handhold at a higher shutter speed, or you can use a tripod or other support so that motion blur isn't an issue.

Also the only reason I shoot in f22 is because I wanted to ensure the whole image was in focus, and actually it was a bit of a test. I usually shoot at f8 since it;s my understanding that its the best aperture for most lenses.

While most lenses have a "sweet spot" aperture, there is no "best" - it all depends on circumstances. If you need more light, the "best" aperture is wide open. If you need more depth of field to keep the entire scene sharp front to back, then the "best" aperture value is stopped down. Etc.

HOWEVER, available light trumps everything else - in poor light, if you stop the lens down to f22 you're not going to get a decent exposure without slowing the shutter speed way down. Therefore, your "best" aperture is going to be wider open than that, to ensure that you 1. let enough light into the camera to make a good exposure and 2. keep the shutter speed up so you can handhold without motion blur. You can also up the ISO to help out (although f22 is seriously stopped down, and even bumping up the ISO might not have given you enough shutter speed in your situations).

Back to the shutter speed. As I was out taking pictures with the family this afternoon, I paid attention to the AV shutter speed compared to the manual mode and I did notice quite a difference. The shutter speed in AV mode was much lower at times. Since I dont' know how to control the speed in AV mode I shot in manual for the most part. I also usually shoot at ISO 100 based on the rule that we should shoot with the lowest ISO as possible based on the situation.

In manual you can vary your both values as much as you like, but your internal camera meter should still be hitting the "middle" of hte exposure line (in the viewfinder) or, even better, a click or two to the right. Yup, that's right: if you're shooting RAW, slightly overexposing a shot (only slightly!) gives you more to work with when you post process it. If a shot is underexposed and you lift the brightness, you will get noticeable noise, even at ISO 100; you can LOWER the exposure in post with almost negligible effect.

I'd say that shooting Av IS pretty straightforward, but the camera does'nt consider all variables, only whether the amount of light hitting the sensor is sufficient. Remember that shutter speed:aperture=constant so if light is taken away by stopping down, the shutter must stay open longer (and vice versa). Av lets you control depth of field quickly and easily by only worrying about aperture values and letting the camera calculate the shutter speed - it's great for working quickly in many situations but you have to keep an eye on that shutter speed to ensure it's sufficient, because the camera won't take that into consideration. If it isn't, you can up the ISO (in most cameras - including the 50d - you can comfortably shoot at 200 and 400 with minimal noise), open up the aperture, or use a tripod. The camera doesn't care which, as it will still make shutter:aperture=constant.

HTH!

ETA: a "soft" image is one that just isn't as crisp as one might like. Some (many) lenses are less sharp at their maximum aperture.

paddler4 · May 30, 2010

I paid attention to the AV shutter speed compared to the manual mode and I did notice quite a difference. The shutter speed in AV mode was much lower at times. Since I dont' know how to control the speed in AV mode I shot in manual for the most part.

You don't control the shutter speed in Av mode. AV mode means that you control the aperture and let the camera set the shutter speed based on its metering. TV is the reverse. If you want to control both, use M.

As a few others suggested, I suspect poor exposure. I shoot with a 50D, and properly exposed shots are virtually noiseless at ISO 100. Check the histogram when you take a shot. If the histogram is bunched at the bottom, you have underexposed, so the signal to noise ratio will be low, and when you lighten the image in postprocessing, you will get noise.

I think you would do well to take some time to study both the workings of the camera and the basics of exposure. There is no magic solution to this that works in every situation. You have to know what exposure you want and how to get the camera to produce it.

MGJulius · May 30, 2010

Like Craig said, diffraction is killing your second shot; f/22 is rarely used unless the depth of field is absolutely necessary. To see what diffraction does, heres an example just at f/16 on a 7D. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=458&Camera=673&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=4&LensComp=458&CameraComp=673&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=7

Hope this helps

ziggy53 · May 30, 2010

I don't think this is a camera issue as much as a technique issue, so I moved this to the Technique forum.

rickp · May 30, 2010

divamum wrote: »

In manual you can vary your both values as much as you like, but your internal camera meter should still be hitting the "middle" of hte exposure line (in the viewfinder) or, even better, a click or two to the right. Yup, that's right: if you're shooting RAW, slightly overexposing a shot (only slightly!) gives you more to work with when you post process it. If a shot is underexposed and you lift the brightness, you will get noticeable noise, even at ISO 100; you can LOWER the exposure in post with almost negligible effect.

Can you explain this a little better. My understanding was that its better to underexpose because its easier to recover the shadows and not overexpose because its harder to recover the blown out highlights.
So when you say a click or 2 to the right, do you mean in the histogram? I;m missing what you're trying to tell me. Sorry. Remember baby steps with me

OL

scratch

yeah the f22 was not a good idea, i knew it would bite me in the rear later.

paddler4,
You talked about the histogram and if bunched up at the bottom image is underexposed. I understood that if the histogram was bunched up to the left it was underexposed. One wants a middle of the road histogram. To far right, overexposed, too far left underexposed.

Can you explain a little more about what you said "bunched up in the bottom" I thought middle was good (usually)

Sorry guys and gals if this is elementary. I guess I'm more messes up that I originally thought.
R.

CynthiaM · May 30, 2010

rickp wrote: »

Can you explain this a little better. My understanding was that its better to underexpose because its easier to recover the shadows and not overexpose because its harder to recover the blown out highlights.
So when you say a click or 2 to the right, do you mean in the histogram? I;m missing what you're trying to tell me. Sorry. Remember baby steps with me OLscratch

R.

Read this: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml
the concept is known as "Expose to the Right"
The histogram should be leaning to the right but short of blowing out highlights. So watch the histogram and watch the blinkies.

As Diva mum pointed out, Av mode will give you the right exposure (most of the time) but it's up to you determine if you can handhold or need a tripod. In your f/22 shot, had you chosen a lower fstop like f/11 or f/16 will give you a wider aperture opening allowing in more light. Your camera in av mode will compensate by selecting a faster shutter speed. Yes, shooting at iso 100 is always desirable but only if you can get a fast enough shutter speed to handhold otherwise you either have to use a tripod or up the iso. By upping the iso, you increase the sensor's sensitivity to light.

divamum · May 30, 2010

So when you say a click or 2 to the right, do you mean in the histogram? I;m missing what you're trying to tell me. Sorry. Remember baby steps with me OLscratch

The histogram will also lean to the right, as elaborated above, but I was referring to the meter scale in the viewfinder that you can see as you look through the VF to shoot. It's a scale with tickmarks on it. Dead center is "optimum", left is underexposed and right is overexposed. But if you go one or two tickmarks to the right (not allowing the highlights to be blown out, as you rightly mention), then you will likely have a better overall exposure.

Here's a screenshot of a 50d viewfinder http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/CanonEOS50D/images/vfdiagram.jpg - right above the number 8 you can see the meter scale, and the numbers of under or over exposure above it (-2 ' ' 1 ' ' 0 ' ' 1 ' ' 2+)

HTH.

pathfinder · May 30, 2010

rickp wrote: »

First off, thank you to all that took the time to reply. I was able to follow the replies from my phone.

Yes I shoot in raw and I cropped the images enough to get the full 100% preview. Other than that there's no PP on them.

I got the soft image point some of you made and that I should increase the shutter speed, but what exactly is a soft image.

Shooting RAW is great, but will not provide as good an image as an out of the camera jpg unless you have a thorough understanding of RAW processing which includes sharpening in the RAW processor. Raw images have not been sharpened like out of the camera jpgs are ( done in the camera by its little computer )

Your images are soft, unsharpened I suspect, not critically as sharp as a 50D image will provide. I shoot with a 50D a lot - Take a look in this gallery for images shot with a 50D that I believe are for the most part, reasonably sharp. Check the EXIF data as I used several different cameras, but the portraits were all likely done with a 50D.

The second part is what really confused me. Shooting in AV mode.

I was under the impression that by shooting AV mode all I really had to worry about was how much depth of field I wanted to achieve, and that the camera would configure the correct shutter speed.

The camera will set the shutter speed in Av mode, right down to as slow as a 30 second exposure - 1/2 minute - Canon assumes you know and understand this in Av mode, and are prepared to use a tripod if necessary... When you choose to shoot Av mode, you must keep an eye on the chosen shutter speed to see if it is suitable for hand holding.

BTW I also usually meter using evaluative metering, again based on circumstance.

So do I, but you need to learn to read your histogram to really under stand exposure settings. I use my histogram in RGB mode so that I can verify that I have not over exposed either the RED, BLUE, or GREEN channels. A correct histogram can be anywhere from the left side to the right side os the display DEPENDING entirely on the image. Black cat in a coal mine will be near the left side, white husky in a snow field will have a large spike very near the right end.

Also the only reason I shoot in f22 is because I wanted to ensure the whole image was in focus, and actually it was a bit of a test. I usually shoot at f8 since it;s my understanding that its the best aperture for most lenses.

f8 is usually a much sharper aperture than f22 for most lenses, due to diffraction has as already been discussed. When you choose very small apertures for greater DOF, you give up some sharpness due to that small size of the lens aperture.

Here's another question based on the comments and aperture settings I used while shooting on a sunny day.
I know it can all be different based on shooting situations. Today I tried to use the 16 rule. But can you guys give me any tips on what settings to dial when shooting in a sunny day, or what are the range of normal numbers on a sunny day? Also, is there any reference material I can read on this. Like I said I thought shooting in AV mode was pretty straight forward, but I guess not.

Avmode is straight forward if you understand how it works, and how cameras control exposure, but you're not ready for it yet.

Spend a couple days using the Sunny 16 Rule out of doors with your camera in Manual mode where you set the aperture, shutter speed and ISO yourself. Choose a single AF point in the area of the image that you want to be in focus. Do not shift the camera after achieving focus lock. Press the shutter gently, slowly, gradually but keep the shutter speed faster than 1/60th of a second.

Then compare these images to what you have previously been getting and see if you aren't getting better shots. You might shoot jpgs for this task as well, with some sharpening thrown in by your in camera jpg processing. Or you can learn to process RAW images, including sharpening in RAW and processing chromatic aberration - but that is another lesson for later.

Modern DSLRs are like high performance race cars - capable of great things in skilled, knowledgeable drivers hands, but quite likely to end up in the wall if driven by a novice who does not understand the controls.

Great images come from skilled photographers, rarely from cameras on Autopilot.

rickp · May 31, 2010

Everyone,
thanks for all that great info.

I've always been exposing to the left. I thought I read that it's easier to PP images and recover detail when shooting to the left than when shooting to the right.

! can i screw up anything else here!!!

!!

What really confused me about shooting in AV mode was that when I shot the images I wasn't getting any camera shake and the histogram didn't give me any indications of underexposure. I guess on top of everything else I need to learn what the numbers are telling me, i.e. low shutter speed.

Let me ask you, when trying to achieve the correct exposure, what is the preferred way of getting it. For example do I change ISO before changing shutter speed, what about changing aperture (within reason due to DOF), etc.... I know it depends on what one is trying to do and what mode I'm shooting in, so I get that it's a tricky question. But I hope you know what I'm getting at in general. Is there a sequense for lack of a better word?
To be honest at this point I've lost confidence in shooting in AV mode in fear of not getting the right shutter speed. I almost feel better shooting in manual speed and having all the control, if that makes sense??

pathfinder,
I couldn't agree more with your last statement. If my camera was a bike instead of a race car I would put training wheels on it.

!! God knows I could use them!!

BTW here is one of the original images I first posted.

Again thanks to all.

R.

pathfinder · May 31, 2010

I shoot Av mode when shooting candids too, where folks move about in and out of light and shadow, but I prefer Manual mode for landscapes or studio shots where they light is consistent.

Spend a day learning to shoot out of doors in Manual Mode. If depth of field is your primary concern, your first choice will be aperture, and then shutter speed. Your ISO will be only as low as allows the shutter speed you need, given the existing lighting and chosen aperture.

If stopping action is your primary concern - think sports or motocross - then shutter speed is your first choice, then aperture to give you that shutter speed, and ISO to give you the shutter speed you need at your chosen aperture.

You will find more consistency of exposure frame to frame in Manual Mode rather than allowing the camera to make decisions for you - at least that has been my experience.

Try the Sunny 16 rule - it will really help you understand exposure better out of doors.

rickp · June 1, 2010

pathfinder,
BTW got a chance to look at your gallery. Very nice!!!!! Perfect example of the level I'd like to achieve.

Again thanks for all the help.

R.

Qarik · June 1, 2010

for shots that don't have fast moving subjects in full manual mode...

start with aperture..how much depth of focus do you want? then adjust shutter speed keeping it above the speed neccessary to avoid camera shake. Then lastly adjust iso.

rickp · June 1, 2010

Well, I have an update on this soft image issue and it's not a positive one.

I got a chance to see the images I shot on monday, where I tried to bump up my shutter speed in hopes of getting sharper images. Well that did not happen. Something else is going on here on top of a slow shutter speed.

The only images that are consistently coming in tack sharp are portrait images at distances of less that 5 feet. Those are perfect as far as sharpness goes.

I called Canon on this and he asked me what AF mode I was using. I told him I was using the Zone AF mode and he said that might be the problem. The Tech said he's known of people having issues in the past using the zone mode when shooting subject past 6 feet or so and getting soft images. He said it worked best for close subject, which would fit the bill for what's happening to me.
The mode he suggested I use is the AF point expansion mode.

I'm going to give this a try and give you guys an update as soon as I can.

Second Update:
It seems the 7D has focusing issues just like what I'm experiencing. The more research I do the more info I'm finding on this.

JohnBiggs · June 2, 2010

5 feet or less just means you aren't zooming/cropping as close on the PC to look for detail. You may be just reaching the edge of the limits with the sensor and not noise that's quite a crop.

Image 1 suprises me a little in that I would expect the shadow on her face to be much darker considering the strong light on her hat and no apparent sign of flash or reflector in her glasses. Did you boost the fill?

If you are shooting on the left and boosting, it's usually worse than just increasing ISO by 2 stops as far as noise goes. Can we see the completely unprocessed #1?

rickp · June 2, 2010

Well, I spoke to Canon today and they're telling me there's nothing wrong with the camera. They're saying the images and the amount of noise is normal. They agreed the images are underexposed but they said nothing looked wrong to them.

Other than sending the camera in I really dont know what to do.

Anyone know how competent they tech support is?? Are they known for just telling someone nothing is wrong?

R.

pathfinder · June 2, 2010

I cannot comment on how accurate they are about your issue, but I have had four repairs done by Canon Factory service in Jamesburg, New Jersey - shutter replaced, AF fixed in my 40D after being dropped 2 feet to a table surface, scratched anti aliasing filter replacement on a 5D, etc and each time it was performed promptly, and well done. Some repairs were warranted work, and some I paid for. All were satisfactory.

pathfinder · June 2, 2010

Have you tried shooting jpgs with sharpening and saturation at +3?

Raw files do look soft ( mine too ) until they are sharpened in Adobe Camera RAW.

Sharpening in RAW is an important part of RAW processing, as is removal of residual chromatic aberration.

jonh68 · June 2, 2010

Looking the original file you posted, I think you are over reacting on the noise issue. Unless you are going to be making billboard sized prints, you are not going to notice in actual practice. If you spend your time pixel peeping you are going to find errors with the best camera and lenses. This is a high contrast scene and there is now way even the best camera can handle the darks and the highs without some noise.

rickp · June 2, 2010

No flash on that image and yes I shot towards the left which was my bad. I had the rules backwards (roll eyes).

I took some more images today in both JPG and RAW and they came out ok. This time I made sure I really looked at shutter speed and exposing about 2 clicks right or so.

I don't know!!! I'm confused. I'm going to shoot some more images and then I'll decide if I'm going to ship the camera off to canon or not. I need to educate myself more with this stuff before I go looking for "issues".

R.

jonh68 · June 2, 2010

rickp wrote: »

No flash on that image and yes I shot towards the left which was my bad. I had the rules backwards (roll eyes).

I took some more images today in both JPG and RAW and they came out ok. This time I made sure I really looked at shutter speed and exposing about 2 clicks right or so.

I don't know!!! I'm confused. I'm going to shoot some more images and then I'll decide if I'm going to ship the camera off to canon or not. I need to educate myself more with this stuff before I go looking for "issues".

R.

I am going to be honest with you. You need to concentrate more on your technique than worry about if your camera is the problem. If you were an experienced photographer and had your technique down, then I would be worried about the camera. You are going to have issues with other cameras too as long as your skills with a camera don't improve.

rickp · June 3, 2010

jonh68,
You are absolutely right. I have a long way to go before I start putting the blame on my gear. As part of the learning process I've signed up for a photoshop class at a college by my house and after that I'm signing up for a photography class. Reading and sites like this help a lot but I feel like I need some true instruction. I think it will be invaluable.

But again, I want to thank everyone that took the time to share their knowledge with me, it's very much appreciated. I have learned a ton in this last week and I look forward to continue learning, exchanging ideas and techniques with everyone on this site.

Thanks
R.

chrisjohnson · June 3, 2010

I doubt you have a problem with the camera.

What I do is set ISO (100 for your demo shots, 200 is OK, 400 is highly relaxed).

Check shutter speed is enough for hand-held. In my case => 1/125. Slower is possible with an IS lens. You can force this using the TV mode on Canon.

Over expose by 1 stop when I like my girl friend's face to stand out against a bright background. Change aperture if needed..

Keep an eye on depth of field. Basically the higher the aperture setting, the better depth of field. So f16 gives more depth of field than f2.8.

When you like the bokeh effect keep the aperture as wide as you can get away with (= lower f number).

Enjoy!

rickp · June 15, 2010

Well I have an update on this issue.
Even after speaking with a couple of Canon Tech support guys and being told that there was nothing wrong with my 7D and that it would be a waste of time to send it in, I sent it in anyway.

Verdict:...AF system not working properly. I was right all along and not nuts.
Now they're working on calibrating the 3 additional lenses to the body.
So everything should be in perfect working order when done

I'm really disappointed with Canon in the sense that after speaking with them and sending them test images their guys were of no help at all.

On the other hand though, I'm glad things will be fixed and my camera & lenses will be returned in working order.

R.

Seefutlung · June 15, 2010

While this may be of no bearing on what's happening ... be aware that heat will also cause noise. So if you toss the camera in the trunk on a hot day the heat may cause noise.

Gary

rickp · June 15, 2010

Let me ask you, is the camera being hot that casues it or outside ambient temperature that causes noise?

R.

Noise Issue PLEASE HELP

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