I have both and can shoot either. I find myself leaning more and more towards the d7000. I love my d700 and it has some features like 9 shot brackets and buffer size but for simple shits the d7000 seems to do better. The OP said he hada d300 so I would look at the d700 but the d7000 has been a great body. I put it on my 500 f4 and it is a killer. I got it for a second light walk around body and fine I love the output. Tough decision.
I just cringed when you mention KR. He is considered a joke on too many forums and people. I think he ruins his reputation by reviewing cameras and lenses with out ever touching them. I could go on about why I disagree with KR, but that would be too much writing.
I agree to an extent. KR is not the best source of information - some of the stuff he says is just inflammatory and rubbish. And a few other times what he wrote made sense. One should take what he says with a heavy dose of salt.
My advise is to read many different reviews and opinions and make an informed decision.
I have read KR and take his info and combine it with other info I get from other sources. He isn't that bad.
Matt, I am surprised that you do not like the Custom U1 and U2....for me that is a god send. Imagine setting your camera for indoor shoot and outdoor shoot. Switch to C1 or C2 for either or and you are ready to shoot...including ISO, Shutter, and all. The semi-pro and pro version offer user banks that you have to load from a memory card...and is very cumbersome. You may want to give that a second look...I would think you would change your feelings towards them. Obviously I don't have the D7k but this was one feature I saw on the 7D and was just like..."wow!".
Now i am leaning towards D7K....am going to buy it and see how it works out from BestBuy. They have 14 day no restocking now.
Nope, I prefer the custom settings options the way the D300 / D700 etc. do it, separate and in a menu. As a wedding photographer, I often need to change my image settings without changing my control settings. Trust me, I've put hours and hours into arranging my custom modes just right, hehe...
That, and ALSO: When I tested the D7000, I unwittingly set the "U2" option to be for extremely low-light and then accidentally bumped the camera from Manual to "U2" a couple times in bright daylight. So, not only do I prefer the other user modes, I STRONGLY dislike the lack of a locking mode dial. Which, by the way is one of the ONLY things I like about the Canon 60D!
For the outdoor/adventure element, wouldn't the weather sealing and chassis of the D700 be useful? I've been taking my camera everywhere with me, and often not in a purpose built, padded bag. My D90 has held up pretty well, but I do worry about it in some of the environments I've taken it (from the arctic circle to the sahara desert...) and was of the impression a D700 would hold up better...
I've taken my old Nikon D70 on far more adventures than my D300 and D700 have ever been on, and it survived. Rain, snow, sand dunes, you name it.
Sure, if I were doing a paid job for National Geographic, I'm sure I'd trust nothing less than a D700. But realistically, it's not like an NG cover story is hanging in the limb every time we go out on a camping / backpacking trip.
I've taken my old Nikon D70 on far more adventures than my D300 and D700 have ever been on, and it survived. Rain, snow, sand dunes, you name it.
Sure, if I were doing a paid job for National Geographic, I'm sure I'd trust nothing less than a D700. But realistically, it's not like an NG cover story is hanging in the limb every time we go out on a camping / backpacking trip.
=Matt=
I wish NG would pay for my trips!
Seeing as I don't do any studio work or paid work, and I want a camera I can take with me anywhere and everywhere, it more and more sounds like the D7000...
I now have a D3s, D7000 and D300s. You can see the lenses I have below. Sadly, I don't have the 70-200 just yet.
I know a D3s is different than D700, but I couldn't get my hands on a D700 without paying high rent.
So, how would you test these cameras? I will put images online if you wish.
I was thinking of just shooting a subject with all three in various ISOs and couple of different f-stops (2.8 and 8, maybe)?? I may just use my Tamron to see..or should I use the 50/1.8?
I have this till this coming Sunday...so wish away and let me see if I can do a test. Btw, I am not concerned about video at all..ignore that please then.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
0
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
Seeing as I don't do any studio work or paid work, and I want a camera I can take with me anywhere and everywhere, it more and more sounds like the D7000...
Honestly, unless you find yourself ALWAYS shooting in near-black low light, I'd just grab a 35mm film camera for those times once a month when you're feeling really artsy and you want to do something extra special with "full frame" etc. The rest of the time, a D7000 will suit most needs just fine.
Reasons to buy a D700, off the top of my head:
* If you're a professional portrait or event / wedding photographer. (Although the D7000 is fully capable of shooting gorgeous portraits and great candids, with the right lenses.)
* If you're really into night-time time lapse / star photography (although the D7000 can do a great job of this anyways, aside from the fact that the 24 f/1.4 has no DX equivalent...)
* If you're shooting for National Geographic... ;-)
I now have a D3s, D7000 and D300s. You can see the lenses I have below. Sadly, I don't have the 70-200 just yet.
I know a D3s is different than D700, but I couldn't get my hands on a D700 without paying high rent.
So, how would you test these cameras? I will put images online if you wish.
I was thinking of just shooting a subject with all three in various ISOs and couple of different f-stops (2.8 and 8, maybe)?? I may just use my Tamron to see..or should I use the 50/1.8?
I have this till this coming Sunday...so wish away and let me see if I can do a test. Btw, I am not concerned about video at all..ignore that please then.
hmm..your body vs lens line up doesn't make any sense to me. Are you renting the D3s? You have stellar bodies and a pretty mediocre lens.
yeah sorry. the D3s is borrowed from a friend. The D7000 is also on loan.
Mediocre lens? The Tamron?
hehe..in my book. anyway if you are up for some testing I would like to see some low light on the d7000 vs d3s. I am guessing noise performace is about 2.5 stops better on the d3s vs d7000.
hehe..in my book. anyway if you are up for some testing I would like to see some low light on the d7000 vs d3s. I am guessing noise performace is about 2.5 stops better on the d3s vs d7000.
I am up for testing...but how would like me to test this?? Inevitably, there will be someone that says I should have done this or that.
So any suggestions on testing environment or just go shoot??? :P
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Ok...so I ran a test and found out later that D7000 pics were out of focus...not due to camera, but cause I was in a hurry and was slightly causing vibrations to it when it was taking shots. So I have to rerun the entire test.
Anyways, here is a take away from what I just saw...I didn't really see THAT much of a difference between D7000 and D300s. They pretty much looked the same at ISO 3200 to me. Perhaps that was cause of the vibrations..I don't know. But when I rerun, we will see.
I also took the D7000 and D3s out on a real shoot. I left my D300s in the bag.
Here are few things I noticed:
D7K: I miss the extra buttons. Specially the focus switch. I usually am jumping from one to the other. It was a pain to switch on the D7K.
D7K & D3s: I miss my focus points on the D300s. I couldn't compose the way I would want to with either of these cameras due to where the focus points are compared to D300s. I hate focus and recompose so this is a deal breaker for me. If I had money to buy D3s...after this test, I would NOT just cause of this.
D3s: Magnifying is a PITA. No single button and you can zoom in. So much harder to use a loupe to see and try to magnify. ::Sigh::
Maybe it was the grip on the D3s (Nikon branded), but I prefer my off-brand grip on D300s...it has the focus selector right there. On the D3s' grip..no focus selector. I missed toooooo many shots cause of this.
D7K: I did prefer the viewfinder in D3s...but nothing that would make me ditch the D7K if I had to pick between them.
D7K: Colors are amazing....TTL is amazing. Exposure is amazing. WOW! It really nailed it every time. D3s struggled...and that was mounted with a SB900. The D7K was mounted with SB600. Both TTL modes. So much so that in a fast moving environment..kids photography...I was reaching for the D7K more just cause I knew the exposure would be dead on. That was amazing! Truly different.
D7K and D3s: Both were focusing consistently and fast. Though I do like the D3s' smaller focus points...can be more precise on what you want focus on. D7K has bigger focus point....sometimes on a kid the focus point was taking over a major part of the face.
Just by this test...I am now leaning against the D7K...2 main reasons: focus points (not enough or not where I want them...like the D300s). And lack of focus choice button(don't know what it is called...but not the one with C or S.).
I will post my test results here later when I get around to doing it.
Btw, the D7K had my Tamron on. The D3s had the Nikon 70-200/2.8 VRI.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
0
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
edited July 24, 2011
D3s: Magnifying is a PITA. No single button and you can zoom in. So much harder to use a loupe to see and try to magnify. ::Sigh::
Custom settings menu, option f1: In playback mode, zoom medium magnification. It's one of the HUGE reasons I shoot Nikon in the first place, and unfortunately one of the reasons I couldn't stand the D7000 since it doesn't even have this option. I've been using this function since 2007 or 2008 when I got a D200 and D300, and I can't live without it now. Whenever I shoot with a Canon and need to confirm focus at 100% magnification, it's ridiculous. Zoom, zoom, zoom zoom, scroll, scroll, scroll, scroll. Too much clicking, it just doesn't fly with me. I can confirm sharpness on my Nikons (D300 and D700) in literally one second.
Thanx Matt...checked it out...very cool. thank god for that. Though I give up the histogram during playback...:(
Anyways...good thing it is not my camera and I do not have the D3s.
Also true that the D7K doesn't have an option to customize the center button for histogram or that zoom feature. Adding to my reasons why I am leaning against the D7K now.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
0
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
Thanx Matt...checked it out...very cool. thank god for that. Though I give up the histogram during playback...:(
Anyways...good thing it is not my camera and I do not have the D3s.
Also true that the D7K doesn't have an option to customize the center button for histogram or that zoom feature. Adding to my reasons why I am leaning against the D7K now.
That's what the up and down buttons are for. Histogram, blinking highlight warning, both are just a click away depending on how you set the display info.
I am up for testing...but how would like me to test this?? Inevitably, there will be someone that says I should have done this or that.
So any suggestions on testing environment or just go shoot??? :P
Daniel (Quarik) didn't come back and answer. But I'll tell you how I like to test ISO.
1. Take one lens, and preferably the best lens you have. Shoot a portrait or series of portraits with it up thru the ISO ranges until you can tell either on the LCD or after downloading that you've reached the max. Then switch cameras and do it again. Then compare.
What I found doing this was:
The lens makes worlds of difference! Pro lens is better.
And they print better than they look on monitors!
I like shooting faces for the simple reason that it is real world and something we humans discern with criticism over.
I have setup a table with all sorts of color stuff and some text and random stuff. I was thinking of the face, but the issue is that the model has to sit straight and not move. My concern is that with the slower speeds the slight movement of the face of someone will render the image unsharp. Thus I am going to use different still life products to do the test. I think that will tell us the same...no?
I guess I could put a doll in there. Running the test tonight.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Well here is the result of the first test. Used a Nikon 70-200/2.8 on all cameras.
same exposure settings obviously.
In this case it was ISO 6400 / f8 / 1/50
on a Gitzo tripod mounted rock solid. Shutter triggered via timer...5 seconds on D300s and D3s. 10secs on D7K.
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D300s
_AND7979_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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********************************************************
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D7K
DSC_0288_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D3s
AS1_7017_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
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I have more..will post as I have time. Took pictures from ISO 200 - to max. Also, all pictures taken with a timer. Focused in the same spot or just nearby. Color balanced in Lightroom from one single referance pic I had taken.
No noise reduction on any cameras....all these were converted from Raw to Jpeg in LR3.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
nice data..the telling point for me would be shots from D7K at 3200 and 1600..when does the 7K get as good as the D3s. As of now the D7K would be usable with some NR.
Where was the focus on the D3S? It looks like it's out of focus a smidge... On the "BLACK" on the bag to the left.
I recently purchased a D7k and I'm very happy with the performance, but I'd love to get a D700 after using my current lenses on a N90s and seeing the FOV FX offers..
I've slowly accumulated the 14-200 2.8 set and I feel like I'm not letting them shine!
This is coming from an amateur D90 user.. and I still use the D90 as a second body.
-Mike Jin
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900. It never gets easier, you just get better.
same exposure settings obviously.
In this case it was ISO 3200 / f8 / 1/25
I had also put the lens at 200mm for the D3s and changed that to equivalent on D300s and D7K...I think it was around 125mm...it read correctly in camera at "200mm" for D7K and D300s. I wanted to keep the same frame since so many people here keep saying that the FX cameras have a large frame of view...(not really...you can backup. )
on a Gitzo tripod mounted rock solid. Shutter triggered via timer...5 seconds on D300s and D3s. 10secs on D7K.
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D300s
_AND7978_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
********************************************************
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D7K
DSC_0285_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
********************************************************
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D3s
AS1_7014_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
********************************************************
I have more..will post as I have time. Took pictures from ISO 200 - to max. Also, all pictures taken with a timer. Focused in the same spot or just nearby [focused on the words "Explosions". Color balanced in Lightroom from one single reference pic I had taken.
No noise reduction on any cameras....all these were converted from Raw to Jpeg in LR3. No other changes. Just cropped.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
That D7000... wow. An APS-C sensor, that inexpensive, that good at high ISO. 3200 is totally usable! And 6400 would be fine with a bit of NR. I bet 12800's pretty good...
hmm..so looking carefully between D3s at 6400 and D7K, at 3200, I say the D3s is still ahead in noise performance. Okay..so..ISO 1600? haha..thisis interesting. I bet The D7K at 1600 is equal the D3S at 6400!
same exposure settings obviously.
In this case it was ISO 1600 / f8 / 1/13
For some odd reason, some of these shots here are soft. Not sure if I needed to adjust for backfocus or front focus...I eliminated all sources of vibration by using a good tripod with a Kirk ballhead and also put the lens on VR Off mode. Not sure what is going on.
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 1600 pic from D300s
_AND7976_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
********************************************************
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 1600 pic from D7K
DSC_0283_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
********************************************************
*************************************************************** Below is the ISO 1600 pic from D3s
AS1_7012_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
*******************************************************
********************************************************
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
I couldn't compose the way I would want to with either of these cameras due to where the focus points are compared to D300s. I hate focus and recompose so this is a deal breaker for me.
Huh? You HATE focus and recompose? Why such strong feelings against something that is so simple and requires almost no thought, effort, or time? I thought EVERY seasoned photographer shot like this. I know I do! You are taking way too long to focus and missing out by limiting yourself to where focus points land. It can be done just as fast and efficiently with 5 points as with 51.
Huh? You HATE focus and recompose? Why such strong feelings against something that is so simple and requires almost no thought, effort, or time? I thought EVERY seasoned photographer shot like this. I know I do! You are taking way too long to focus and missing out by limiting yourself to where focus points land. It can be done just as fast and efficiently with 5 points as with 51.
Focus and recompose is a valuable technique for distant to moderate distance subjects. At close proximity it leads to focus error.
Huh? You HATE focus and recompose? Why such strong feelings against something that is so simple and requires almost no thought, effort, or time? I thought EVERY seasoned photographer shot like this. I know I do! You are taking way too long to focus and missing out by limiting yourself to where focus points land. It can be done just as fast and efficiently with 5 points as with 51.
Good luck using focus+recompose on full-frame at f/1.4 or f/1.2 shooting hand-held at close distances of a standing subject. ;-)
But indeed, at distances greater than ~10 feet, I too am just fine using focus+recompose depending on the situation.
Comments
I agree to an extent. KR is not the best source of information - some of the stuff he says is just inflammatory and rubbish. And a few other times what he wrote made sense. One should take what he says with a heavy dose of salt.
My advise is to read many different reviews and opinions and make an informed decision.
Cheers,
My Website | My Blog | My Facebook Page | My YouTube
That, and ALSO: When I tested the D7000, I unwittingly set the "U2" option to be for extremely low-light and then accidentally bumped the camera from Manual to "U2" a couple times in bright daylight. So, not only do I prefer the other user modes, I STRONGLY dislike the lack of a locking mode dial. Which, by the way is one of the ONLY things I like about the Canon 60D!
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Sure, if I were doing a paid job for National Geographic, I'm sure I'd trust nothing less than a D700. But realistically, it's not like an NG cover story is hanging in the limb every time we go out on a camping / backpacking trip.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I wish NG would pay for my trips!
Seeing as I don't do any studio work or paid work, and I want a camera I can take with me anywhere and everywhere, it more and more sounds like the D7000...
But I can't let go of wanting a D700, especially after reading this article: http://blog.thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com/2011/06/switched-canon-5d-mark-ii-nikon-d700/
I now have a D3s, D7000 and D300s. You can see the lenses I have below. Sadly, I don't have the 70-200 just yet.
I know a D3s is different than D700, but I couldn't get my hands on a D700 without paying high rent.
So, how would you test these cameras? I will put images online if you wish.
I was thinking of just shooting a subject with all three in various ISOs and couple of different f-stops (2.8 and 8, maybe)?? I may just use my Tamron to see..or should I use the 50/1.8?
I have this till this coming Sunday...so wish away and let me see if I can do a test. Btw, I am not concerned about video at all..ignore that please then.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Reasons to buy a D700, off the top of my head:
* If you're a professional portrait or event / wedding photographer. (Although the D7000 is fully capable of shooting gorgeous portraits and great candids, with the right lenses.)
* If you're really into night-time time lapse / star photography (although the D7000 can do a great job of this anyways, aside from the fact that the 24 f/1.4 has no DX equivalent...)
* If you're shooting for National Geographic... ;-)
...And that's about it!
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
hmm..your body vs lens line up doesn't make any sense to me. Are you renting the D3s? You have stellar bodies and a pretty mediocre lens.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
yeah sorry. the D3s is borrowed from a friend. The D7000 is also on loan.
Mediocre lens? The Tamron?
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
hehe..in my book. anyway if you are up for some testing I would like to see some low light on the d7000 vs d3s. I am guessing noise performace is about 2.5 stops better on the d3s vs d7000.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
I am up for testing...but how would like me to test this?? Inevitably, there will be someone that says I should have done this or that.
So any suggestions on testing environment or just go shoot??? :P
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Anyways, here is a take away from what I just saw...I didn't really see THAT much of a difference between D7000 and D300s. They pretty much looked the same at ISO 3200 to me. Perhaps that was cause of the vibrations..I don't know. But when I rerun, we will see.
I also took the D7000 and D3s out on a real shoot. I left my D300s in the bag.
Here are few things I noticed:
- D7K: I miss the extra buttons. Specially the focus switch. I usually am jumping from one to the other. It was a pain to switch on the D7K.
- D7K & D3s: I miss my focus points on the D300s. I couldn't compose the way I would want to with either of these cameras due to where the focus points are compared to D300s. I hate focus and recompose so this is a deal breaker for me. If I had money to buy D3s...after this test, I would NOT just cause of this.
- D3s: Magnifying is a PITA. No single button and you can zoom in. So much harder to use a loupe to see and try to magnify. ::Sigh::
- Maybe it was the grip on the D3s (Nikon branded), but I prefer my off-brand grip on D300s...it has the focus selector right there. On the D3s' grip..no focus selector. I missed toooooo many shots cause of this.
- D7K: I did prefer the viewfinder in D3s...but nothing that would make me ditch the D7K if I had to pick between them.
- D7K: Colors are amazing....TTL is amazing. Exposure is amazing. WOW! It really nailed it every time. D3s struggled...and that was mounted with a SB900. The D7K was mounted with SB600. Both TTL modes. So much so that in a fast moving environment..kids photography...I was reaching for the D7K more just cause I knew the exposure would be dead on. That was amazing! Truly different.
- D7K and D3s: Both were focusing consistently and fast. Though I do like the D3s' smaller focus points...can be more precise on what you want focus on. D7K has bigger focus point....sometimes on a kid the focus point was taking over a major part of the face.
Just by this test...I am now leaning against the D7K...2 main reasons: focus points (not enough or not where I want them...like the D300s). And lack of focus choice button(don't know what it is called...but not the one with C or S.).I will post my test results here later when I get around to doing it.
Btw, the D7K had my Tamron on. The D3s had the Nikon 70-200/2.8 VRI.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Custom settings menu, option f1: In playback mode, zoom medium magnification. It's one of the HUGE reasons I shoot Nikon in the first place, and unfortunately one of the reasons I couldn't stand the D7000 since it doesn't even have this option. I've been using this function since 2007 or 2008 when I got a D200 and D300, and I can't live without it now. Whenever I shoot with a Canon and need to confirm focus at 100% magnification, it's ridiculous. Zoom, zoom, zoom zoom, scroll, scroll, scroll, scroll. Too much clicking, it just doesn't fly with me. I can confirm sharpness on my Nikons (D300 and D700) in literally one second.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Anyways...good thing it is not my camera and I do not have the D3s.
Also true that the D7K doesn't have an option to customize the center button for histogram or that zoom feature. Adding to my reasons why I am leaning against the D7K now.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
;-)
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Daniel (Quarik) didn't come back and answer. But I'll tell you how I like to test ISO.
1. Take one lens, and preferably the best lens you have. Shoot a portrait or series of portraits with it up thru the ISO ranges until you can tell either on the LCD or after downloading that you've reached the max. Then switch cameras and do it again. Then compare.
What I found doing this was:
The lens makes worlds of difference! Pro lens is better.
And they print better than they look on monitors!
I like shooting faces for the simple reason that it is real world and something we humans discern with criticism over.
I guess I could put a doll in there. Running the test tonight.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
same exposure settings obviously.
In this case it was ISO 6400 / f8 / 1/50
on a Gitzo tripod mounted rock solid. Shutter triggered via timer...5 seconds on D300s and D3s. 10secs on D7K.
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Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D300s
_AND7979_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D7K
DSC_0288_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D3s
AS1_7017_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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I have more..will post as I have time. Took pictures from ISO 200 - to max. Also, all pictures taken with a timer. Focused in the same spot or just nearby. Color balanced in Lightroom from one single referance pic I had taken.
No noise reduction on any cameras....all these were converted from Raw to Jpeg in LR3.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
I recently purchased a D7k and I'm very happy with the performance, but I'd love to get a D700 after using my current lenses on a N90s and seeing the FOV FX offers..
I've slowly accumulated the 14-200 2.8 set and I feel like I'm not letting them shine!
This is coming from an amateur D90 user.. and I still use the D90 as a second body.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
On D3s - on the letters "LO" on the box with "Explosions"
On D300s - on the letter "Ex" on the same box and same with the D7K.
The reason it changed slightly was because of where the focus points where on screen...without moving the camera too much.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
In this case it was ISO 3200 / f8 / 1/25
I had also put the lens at 200mm for the D3s and changed that to equivalent on D300s and D7K...I think it was around 125mm...it read correctly in camera at "200mm" for D7K and D300s. I wanted to keep the same frame since so many people here keep saying that the FX cameras have a large frame of view...(not really...you can backup.
on a Gitzo tripod mounted rock solid. Shutter triggered via timer...5 seconds on D300s and D3s. 10secs on D7K.
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Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D300s
_AND7978_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D7K
DSC_0285_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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Below is the ISO 3200 pic from D3s
AS1_7014_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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I have more..will post as I have time. Took pictures from ISO 200 - to max. Also, all pictures taken with a timer. Focused in the same spot or just nearby [focused on the words "Explosions". Color balanced in Lightroom from one single reference pic I had taken.
No noise reduction on any cameras....all these were converted from Raw to Jpeg in LR3. No other changes. Just cropped.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
In this case it was ISO 1600 / f8 / 1/13
For some odd reason, some of these shots here are soft. Not sure if I needed to adjust for backfocus or front focus...I eliminated all sources of vibration by using a good tripod with a Kirk ballhead and also put the lens on VR Off mode. Not sure what is going on.
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Below is the ISO 1600 pic from D300s
_AND7976_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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Below is the ISO 1600 pic from D7K
DSC_0283_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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Below is the ISO 1600 pic from D3s
AS1_7012_ok2Delete_fb by Fotomango
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WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Huh? You HATE focus and recompose? Why such strong feelings against something that is so simple and requires almost no thought, effort, or time? I thought EVERY seasoned photographer shot like this. I know I do! You are taking way too long to focus and missing out by limiting yourself to where focus points land. It can be done just as fast and efficiently with 5 points as with 51.
Focus and recompose is a valuable technique for distant to moderate distance subjects. At close proximity it leads to focus error.
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=5642
http://www.outbackphoto.com/workshop/phototechnique/essay06/essay.html
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
But indeed, at distances greater than ~10 feet, I too am just fine using focus+recompose depending on the situation.
=Matt=
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