I think the reason why I don't like focus-recompose are pretty clear from above two replies. I will try it again...
One other thing though is that I don't know how to do that...do I keep holding the shutter button half way to lock the focus? My AF-ON and AE/AF-L buttons are customized for other functions.
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WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
so the D7K iso 1600 shot is eqivalent to the D3s iso 6400 in my eyes, which is about what I expected. Thanks for the time you took on these.
Hmm... interesting...I am seeing it only as a 1 stop difference though. ISO 3200 on D7K to ISO 6400 on D3s.
No problem on the time...I certainly hope it helps others as it is helping me. One thing I realized between during this period...ISO matters but so does a lot of the other shooting functions. If I can't get a shot cause I can't change to a shooting preference quick enough...well what good does ISO 1,000,000 going to do!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
... One other thing though is that I don't know how to do that...do I keep holding the shutter button half way to lock the focus? My AF-ON and AE/AF-L buttons are customized for other functions.
One-shot mode, then half-depress the shutter release button to AF on the subject until you get confirmation. Hold the button at the half point (as you said), recompose the shot and follow through with the shutter release.
Makes sense. In the studio, it's not so much a problem when stepped way down with tons of DOF. Obviously when shooting up close and wide open can be a problem with no DOF to work with. I guess I've never had any problems because I do mostly use it at moderate to far distances.
Good luck using focus+recompose on full-frame at f/1.4 or f/1.2 shooting hand-held at close distances of a standing subject. ;-)
But indeed, at distances greater than ~10 feet, I too am just fine using focus+recompose depending on the situation.
=Matt=
Yeah, up close with 1.4 would be an issue for sure. 1.2 would be far worse! I think when most people use focus and recompose it's already at the moderate to far distances. Up close your frame is filled and the focus points usually land right where you need them anyway... or close enough.
I'm just surprised that anyone wouldn't use focus and recompose in the field or go as far as to hate it. Personal preference but it's such a great(and fast) method to use.
ImageX - Couple of reasons I hate it....1. I didn't know how to do it properly...until Ziggy just showed me. 2. Hate is just such a strong word....how about...I detest it since it never worked for me...(go back to #1).
Joking aside....I am going to try it to see if it works.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
0
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
Ahhh..I see. Thanx Ziggy. I will have to check it out. No wonder it never worked for me...I was always in Servo modes.
How dare you use the word "servo mode", you Nikon user! It's called continuous focus. :-P
Okay yeah, all joking aside, I find focus+recompose to be VERY useful when I'm shooting at normal apertures at decent distances.
Out of curiosity, what is your AF-ON button programmed to, if not AF? Does your shutter perform AF for you? Personally, I can't stand that and I've had AF on my AF-ON button ONLY for the past few years I actually first learned it back in 2004 / 2005 when the D70 came out...
The way I do it with AF-ON being in charge of focus, I can focus+recompose any time I want, either in Single focus mode OR in continuous focus. All you gotta do is keep holding down the AF-ON button while you re-compose in single focus mode, OR just take your finger OFF the AF-ON button when you re-compose in continuous focus mode. Either way, focus doesn't try and "fix things" when you go to hit the shutter.
Matt, my AF-ON button is programmed for AF just like yours. However, it seems that VR doesn't work if you use that button. For VR, from what I read, you have to use the shutter button to focus. So when I don't need VR, I am using AF to focus. Thus I can't choose AF Lock for AF-ON. And AE/AF-L button I used for exposure lock.
Now, please don't come and tell me that I can just get focus with AF-ON and then let go and it will remain focused. Does it???
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Matt, my AF-ON button is programmed for AF just like yours. However, it seems that VR doesn't work if you use that button. For VR, from what I read, you have to use the shutter button to focus. So when I don't need VR, I am using AF to focus. Thus I can't choose AF Lock for AF-ON. And AE/AF-L button I used for exposure lock.
Now, please don't come and tell me that I can just get focus with AF-ON and then let go and it will remain focused. Does it???
VR turns on via the shutter button. But you can focus with AF-ON, then release (or not) and VR will still turn on when you hit the shutter button. You don't have to be focusing with the shutter in order for VR to work.
If you have focus removed from the shutter, then focus with AF-ON, release AF-ON and recompose, the focus will stay where you left it. Then after you recompose, VR turns on when you half-press the shutter, but it doesn't refocus b/c you've disabled focus from the shutter.
If you need VR on when focusing, just half-press the shutter to enable VR and focus with AF-ON.
VR turns on via the shutter button. But you can focus with AF-ON, then release (or not) and VR will still turn on when you hit the shutter button. You don't have to be focusing with the shutter in order for VR to work.
If you have focus removed from the shutter, then focus with AF-ON, release AF-ON and recompose, the focus will stay where you left it. Then after you recompose, VR turns on when you half-press the shutter, but it doesn't refocus b/c you've disabled focus from the shutter.
If you need VR on when focusing, just half-press the shutter to enable VR and focus with AF-ON.
Well I'll be dammed! really? you sure? That is not what I read from the Nikon manuals. Then again, English is my second language! Heck..prolly my third or fourth!
I will have to check it out.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
0
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
If you have focus removed from the shutter, then focus with AF-ON, release AF-ON and recompose, the focus will stay where you left it. Then after you recompose, VR turns on when you half-press the shutter, but it doesn't refocus b/c you've disabled focus from the shutter.
Well I'll be dammed! really? you sure? That is not what I read from the Nikon manuals. Then again, English is my second language! Heck..prolly my third or fourth!
I will have to check it out.
Yep, if you set the function to "AF-ON ONLY", then yeah, the shutter can't affect autofocus at all.
Here's the catch though: If you're using AF-S, which is "single focus" (not to be confused with AFS, the type of lens) instead of AF-C, continuous focus, ...then if you take your finger off the AF-ON button and re-compose, the camera may REFUSE to fire if you move the focus point to an area that doesn't actually have focus. Unless of course you configure your camera for "release priority" in AF-S mode, which I don't recommend unless you really know what you're doing.
So, what most people do is, either keep their thumb on the AF-ON button the whole time they're re-composing and shooting, in AF-S mode, OR in AF-C mode they can do whatever they please with their AF-ON finger. ;-)
...then if you take your finger off the AF-ON button and re-compose, the camera may REFUSE to fire if you move the focus point to an area that doesn't actually have focus. Unless of course you configure your camera for "release priority" in AF-S mode, which I don't recommend unless you really know what you're doing.
So, what most people do is, either keep their thumb on the AF-ON button the whole time they're re-composing and shooting, in AF-S mode, OR in AF-C mode they can do whatever they please with their AF-ON finger. ;-)
Well, I do have Release priority set for AF-S, because nothing frustrates me more than hitting the shutter release only to have the camera not take the @#%%@%^^@ picture! However, based on (I think) your advice from some time ago, I leave my camera set in AF-C mode and just release my thumb when I want it to lock, or hold it down when I want it to track. Using AF-C + AF-ON means it's continuous when I want it to be or single when I want it to be.
The only time I switch to AF-S is if it's dark and I want the AF-assist light to turn on, because that only works in single focus mode. The problem is that then I have to remember to switch it back, which I usually don't...
Well, I do have Release priority set for AF-S, because nothing frustrates me more than hitting the shutter release only to have the camera not take the @#%%@%^^@ picture! However, based on (I think) your advice from some time ago, I leave my camera set in AF-C mode and just release my thumb when I want it to lock, or hold it down when I want it to track. Using AF-C + AF-ON means it's continuous when I want it to be or single when I want it to be.
The only time I switch to AF-S is if it's dark and I want the AF-assist light to turn on, because that only works in single focus mode. The problem is that then I have to remember to switch it back, which I usually don't...
Ugh, I know. I WISH someone would PLEASE hack the firmware of the SB800, or any flash, and just give me like 3 seconds of AF assist beam ANY time I hit the AF button, no matter what focus mode I'm in or which AF point I'm using. I don't care if it eats up the batteries twice as fast, it would be a HUGE help. Half the time I'm not even using the flash, I'm just using the AF beam, so power consumption is almost a moot point.
Oh well!
But, you are correct about leaving the camera in AF-C mode and using AF-ON. That is how I've rolled 75% of the time for the past 6-7 years since the D70 first came out with that option in 2004.
HOWEVER, if you're using one of the beginner / amateur camera bodies, and especially with the older AF-D lenses, I have found that often times in situations where the subject is at a distance and holding relatively still, using AF-C as a faux-single-focus will end up giving me too much focus jitter. I have found that using AF-S and letting it truly LOCK will indeed give me perfect focus much more consistently. On the likes of a D700 / D3 etc. with an AFS-G lens, however, it seems to be a non issue. I can use AF-C on a perfectly still subject and focus really doesn't jitter much at all, it just locks in and stays there until the subject moves.
Comments
One other thing though is that I don't know how to do that...do I keep holding the shutter button half way to lock the focus? My AF-ON and AE/AF-L buttons are customized for other functions.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Hmm... interesting...I am seeing it only as a 1 stop difference though. ISO 3200 on D7K to ISO 6400 on D3s.
No problem on the time...I certainly hope it helps others as it is helping me. One thing I realized between during this period...ISO matters but so does a lot of the other shooting functions. If I can't get a shot cause I can't change to a shooting preference quick enough...well what good does ISO 1,000,000 going to do!
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
One-shot mode, then half-depress the shutter release button to AF on the subject until you get confirmation. Hold the button at the half point (as you said), recompose the shot and follow through with the shutter release.
It does not apply in servo mode, FWIW.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Makes sense. In the studio, it's not so much a problem when stepped way down with tons of DOF. Obviously when shooting up close and wide open can be a problem with no DOF to work with. I guess I've never had any problems because I do mostly use it at moderate to far distances.
Yeah, up close with 1.4 would be an issue for sure. 1.2 would be far worse! I think when most people use focus and recompose it's already at the moderate to far distances. Up close your frame is filled and the focus points usually land right where you need them anyway... or close enough.
I'm just surprised that anyone wouldn't use focus and recompose in the field or go as far as to hate it. Personal preference but it's such a great(and fast) method to use.
Joking aside....I am going to try it to see if it works.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Okay yeah, all joking aside, I find focus+recompose to be VERY useful when I'm shooting at normal apertures at decent distances.
Out of curiosity, what is your AF-ON button programmed to, if not AF? Does your shutter perform AF for you? Personally, I can't stand that and I've had AF on my AF-ON button ONLY for the past few years I actually first learned it back in 2004 / 2005 when the D70 came out...
The way I do it with AF-ON being in charge of focus, I can focus+recompose any time I want, either in Single focus mode OR in continuous focus. All you gotta do is keep holding down the AF-ON button while you re-compose in single focus mode, OR just take your finger OFF the AF-ON button when you re-compose in continuous focus mode. Either way, focus doesn't try and "fix things" when you go to hit the shutter.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Now, please don't come and tell me that I can just get focus with AF-ON and then let go and it will remain focused. Does it???
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
VR turns on via the shutter button. But you can focus with AF-ON, then release (or not) and VR will still turn on when you hit the shutter button. You don't have to be focusing with the shutter in order for VR to work.
If you have focus removed from the shutter, then focus with AF-ON, release AF-ON and recompose, the focus will stay where you left it. Then after you recompose, VR turns on when you half-press the shutter, but it doesn't refocus b/c you've disabled focus from the shutter.
If you need VR on when focusing, just half-press the shutter to enable VR and focus with AF-ON.
My site 365 Project
Well I'll be dammed! really? you sure? That is not what I read from the Nikon manuals. Then again, English is my second language! Heck..prolly my third or fourth!
I will have to check it out.
WildViper
From Nikon D70s > Nikon D300s & D700
Nikon 50/1.8, Tamron 28-75/2.8 1st gen, Nikkor 12-24/4, Nikkor 70-200/2.8 ED VR, SB600, SB900, SB-26 and Gitzo 2 Series Carbon Fiber with Kirk Ballhead
Here's the catch though: If you're using AF-S, which is "single focus" (not to be confused with AFS, the type of lens) instead of AF-C, continuous focus, ...then if you take your finger off the AF-ON button and re-compose, the camera may REFUSE to fire if you move the focus point to an area that doesn't actually have focus. Unless of course you configure your camera for "release priority" in AF-S mode, which I don't recommend unless you really know what you're doing.
So, what most people do is, either keep their thumb on the AF-ON button the whole time they're re-composing and shooting, in AF-S mode, OR in AF-C mode they can do whatever they please with their AF-ON finger. ;-)
Hope that wasn't too complex!
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Well, I do have Release priority set for AF-S, because nothing frustrates me more than hitting the shutter release only to have the camera not take the @#%%@%^^@ picture! However, based on (I think) your advice from some time ago, I leave my camera set in AF-C mode and just release my thumb when I want it to lock, or hold it down when I want it to track. Using AF-C + AF-ON means it's continuous when I want it to be or single when I want it to be.
The only time I switch to AF-S is if it's dark and I want the AF-assist light to turn on, because that only works in single focus mode. The problem is that then I have to remember to switch it back, which I usually don't...
My site 365 Project
Oh well!
But, you are correct about leaving the camera in AF-C mode and using AF-ON. That is how I've rolled 75% of the time for the past 6-7 years since the D70 first came out with that option in 2004.
HOWEVER, if you're using one of the beginner / amateur camera bodies, and especially with the older AF-D lenses, I have found that often times in situations where the subject is at a distance and holding relatively still, using AF-C as a faux-single-focus will end up giving me too much focus jitter. I have found that using AF-S and letting it truly LOCK will indeed give me perfect focus much more consistently. On the likes of a D700 / D3 etc. with an AFS-G lens, however, it seems to be a non issue. I can use AF-C on a perfectly still subject and focus really doesn't jitter much at all, it just locks in and stays there until the subject moves.
Take care,
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum