Indoor Sports (Professional Stadium)

2»

Comments

  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    While I don't know soccer nearly as much as I know other sports, I can comment on the photo quality. #1 is my fav. It's got Face, Action, Toy, and there's about to be contact. Great shot. #4 isn't sharp. It's either out of focus, or severely cropped. #2 and #3 look good to me.

    In all of these it looks like you have a lot of noise. Now, if the lighting's really bad and you're shooting at max aperture, there's pretty much nothing you can do but bump up the ISO. If you have Adobe Lightroom 3, you might try doing some noise reduction on these. There are dedicated programs out there (Noise Ninja comes to mind) that do this too. You should probably have some way of doing good noise reduction if you're shooting indoors.

    Good luck!
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    While I don't know soccer nearly as much as I know other sports, I can comment on the photo quality. #1 is my fav. It's got Face, Action, Toy, and there's about to be contact. Great shot. #4 isn't sharp. It's either out of focus, or severely cropped. #2 and #3 look good to me.

    In all of these it looks like you have a lot of noise. Now, if the lighting's really bad and you're shooting at max aperture, there's pretty much nothing you can do but bump up the ISO. If you have Adobe Lightroom 3, you might try doing some noise reduction on these. There are dedicated programs out there (Noise Ninja comes to mind) that do this too. You should probably have some way of doing good noise reduction if you're shooting indoors.

    Good luck!
    @TCG
    #1 For me is the best too. It's like a mirrored image and looks nice, with the ball in the middle. I think it's good composed. It could have been better if the background players weren't there but it's something I can't control hehehe

    #2 This one was at taken in winter at night with a lot of fog, artificial lights and it was my first time using a 70-200 f/2.8L. The full sequence of this action comprises like 30 images. This is the most significant since the ball shadow is giving the idea of how close it was from the post.

    #3 This one was a surprise for me because the goal just happened and I was replacing lenses. It was taken with a 18-200. It wasn't properly configured because, as I said, I was replacing lenses and have no time to reconfigure and just shoot (with 70-200 + Extender 2x setup). It managed to be nice.

    #4 Here the lens estabilizer mode was in 1 (static) so I guess I was lucky to have the motion in somewhat focused.

    Thanks!!
  • jonh68jonh68 Registered Users Posts: 2,711 Major grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    @TCG
    #1 For me is the best too. It's like a mirrored image and looks nice, with the ball in the middle. I think it's good composed. It could have been better if the background players weren't there but it's something I can't control hehehe

    #2 This one was at taken in winter at night with a lot of fog, artificial lights and it was my first time using a 70-200 f/2.8L. The full sequence of this action comprises like 30 images. This is the most significant since the ball shadow is giving the idea of how close it was from the post.

    #3 This one was a surprise for me because the goal just happened and I was replacing lenses. It was taken with a 18-200. It wasn't properly configured because, as I said, I was replacing lenses and have no time to reconfigure and just shoot (with 70-200 + Extender 2x setup). It managed to be nice.

    #4 Here the lens estabilizer mode was in 1 (static) so I guess I was lucky to have the motion in somewhat focused.

    Thanks!!

    If I understand you correctly you were using image stabilization? For sports it isn't necessary as you need to have fast enough shutterspeed to compensate for shake. If you need IS/VR for sports then you are not going to have enough ss to freeze action. Also, IS hinders AF in that it hesitates a bit to acquire focus which can cause you to miss a play or moment. A split second loss of AF can make a huge difference with sports.
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    Hello John,
    I'm not sure about this feature. I read that position 1 was for static and 2 for panning or something like that.
    Well, I just remember it was on position 2. I'm completely ignorant about this lens.
    How should I disable IS or reduce it?
    Usually I took this shots using a monopod.
    Thanks!
  • jonh68jonh68 Registered Users Posts: 2,711 Major grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    Hello John,
    I'm not sure about this feature. I read that position 1 was for static and 2 for panning or something like that.
    Well, I just remember it was on position 2. I'm completely ignorant about this lens.
    How should I disable IS or reduce it?
    Usually I took this shots using a monopod.
    Thanks!

    Should be an off switch on the lens.
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    Here is the switch ;)
    Since I don't have the lens with me know got to find a picture online:
    is-switches.jpg
  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited August 2, 2011
    Just turn the top switch to off, it will override the bottom thumb.gif

    Panning is more for birding and such, when you're trying to keep the bird in the frame. I think. Honestly, I don't own any IS lenses, because I don't have a need for it shooting sports :)
  • travischancetravischance Registered Users Posts: 642 Major grins
    edited August 4, 2011
    While I don't know soccer nearly as much as I know other sports, I can comment on the photo quality. #1 is my fav. It's got Face, Action, Toy, and there's about to be contact. Great shot. #4 isn't sharp. It's either out of focus, or severely cropped. #2 and #3 look good to me.

    In all of these it looks like you have a lot of noise. Now, if the lighting's really bad and you're shooting at max aperture, there's pretty much nothing you can do but bump up the ISO. If you have Adobe Lightroom 3, you might try doing some noise reduction on these. There are dedicated programs out there (Noise Ninja comes to mind) that do this too. You should probably have some way of doing good noise reduction if you're shooting indoors.

    Good luck!

    I agree. Those images (excluding the noise) were pretty good. In addition to the face, eyes, ball & action, each player has all their limbs.
    Travis M. Chance
    twin Mark IV's & a bunch of "L" glass
    sitefacebook
  • jheftijhefti Registered Users Posts: 734 Major grins
    edited August 5, 2011
    I didn't see this mentioned, but I might also suggest shooting in RAW format. Indoor lighting is notoriously difficult to white balance, and RAW will give you more flexibility in correcting color in the post processing. The downside is that you will fill up the buffer much more quickly if you are shooting continuous, but most burst mode shots are of short duration and so this should not be a problem.

    Otherwise, I agree with the others here who suggest using the 70-200 f/2.8 lens. It's fairly fast and versatile. If you are using just one body, you don't want to be spending time switching lenses. Also, don't forget to lower the ISO when doing shots outside of the action--team huddles, the bench, etc. I often forget this, and end up with needlessly noisy shots!

    Since these will be used in a powerpoint presentation, I am assuming that resolution will be limited to screen standard (72 PPI). If so, you have more latitude in cropping and can probably pull out a set of decent shots. Good luck!!
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited August 5, 2011
    @jhefti thanks for the tip! I was about to choose S-RAW
    I will pay attention to the outside setup to avoid those nosy shots!
    thanks!
  • jheftijhefti Registered Users Posts: 734 Major grins
    edited August 6, 2011
    @jhefti thanks for the tip! I was about to choose S-RAW
    I will pay attention to the outside setup to avoid those nosy shots!
    thanks!

    I might also suggest that you shoot in the largest RAW format available, so that you have the greatest flexibility in editing. Although screen res is very limited, being able to crop a lot of the pic will make up for a multitude of compositional sins in the original shot. The only downside to this is that your card will fill up faster, so make sure you take along enough memory.
  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited August 6, 2011
    Oh yes, be sure you have enough memory to shoot hundreds, probably thousands, of raw photos. I carry... let's see... 28GB total with me. And I don't have a card higher than 8GB.
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited August 8, 2011
    Oh yes, be sure you have enough memory to shoot hundreds, probably thousands, of raw photos. I carry... let's see... 28GB total with me. And I don't have a card higher than 8GB.

    TCG, I will go with a couple of 32GB cards :D and 2 additional batteries. Thanks!
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited September 6, 2011
    Everybody,
    Finally I couldn't do the job I mentioned in the first post.
    My back suffered (and still suffers) pain which forced me to rest in bed.
    A colleague did the job for me.
    Anyways, the last weekend I tried to shoot some pictures and the pain returned. Here are some samples. It was difficult to hold the 7D + 70-200 with extender. Too heavy.
    Thanks for your support. Comments on this pics are welcome!

    #1 | Marcos Di Palma (5) [Mercedes-Benz TRV6] Top Race V6 - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    TRV6BSAS_F030.jpg
    Approaching the first "S" curve at high speed (around 125 mph).

    #2 | Roberval Andrade (1) [Scania R420] Fórmula Truck Brazil - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    TRV6BSAS_F019.jpg
    Just in exiting the Carlos Reutemann curve.

    #3 | Renato Martins (9) [Volkswagen Constellation] Fórmula Truck Brazil - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    TRV6BSAS_F017.jpg
    Dealing with the Carlos Reutemann Curve.

    #4 | Felipe Giaffone (4) [Volkswagen Constellation] Fórmula Truck Brazil - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    http://www.asnmedia.tv/db/content/portfolio/Motorsports/Buenos%20Aires%20TRV6/TRV6BSAS_F022.jpg
    Thinking and planning.

    #5 | Martín Palermo (9) [Chevrolet Vectra] Top Race Series - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    TRV6BSAS_F005.jpg
    First racing experience for this retired football-soccer striker.

    #6 | Guido Falaschi (96) [Mercedes-Benz TRV6] Top Race V6 - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    TRV6BSAS_F032.jpg
    Longest straight (0.75 miles). It's hard to catch this cars when they approach at 160 mph.

    #7 | Geraldo Piquet (3) [Mercedes-Benz Axor] Fórmula Truck Brazil - Buenos Aires 9/4/2011
    TRV6BSAS_F014.jpg
    The race winner.
  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited September 6, 2011
    Hey, those are good shots. Sorry to hear about your back. When my gear is heavy, I find that my monopod really helps.
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited September 7, 2011
    Hey, those are good shots. Sorry to hear about your back. When my gear is heavy, I find that my monopod really helps.

    I do that TCG but that day was terrific! One of the flip levers got broken. Impossible to use it.

    Thanks!!
  • nipprdognipprdog Registered Users Posts: 660 Major grins
    edited September 7, 2011
    Comments on this pics are welcome!

    Sorry to hear about your back problems. I can relate to that. mwink.gif

    But all of those photos are out of focus and flat.

    What settings did you use?
  • splashtracksplashtrack Registered Users Posts: 32 Big grins
    edited September 8, 2011
    nipprdog wrote: »
    Sorry to hear about your back problems. I can relate to that. mwink.gif

    But all of those photos are out of focus and flat.

    What settings did you use?

    Hello Jim,

    I agree with you. The pics are out of focus, but believe me that these ones are the most accurate ones.
    Got to believe that got 70-200 in hands without monopod helped to defocus the images more.
    What you mean "flat"?
    Thanks!
  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited September 9, 2011
    What you mean "flat"?

    Lots of my photos are flat when they come out of the camera. I make them "pop" more by playing with the curves. In ACR, I raise the highlights slider and lower the shadows. This makes the highlights brighter and the shadows darker. This method generally isn't as good if the photo has blown highlights or really dark shadows.
Sign In or Register to comment.