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Settings for Canon 7D for outdoor soccer
I am getting ready for soccer season and wanted to know some settings using a Canon 7D while photographing outdoors?
Metering mode? Evaluate, Partial, Spot, Center-weighted average
Auto Lighting Optimizer? Disable, Low, Standard, Strong
Drive Mode? High Speed Continuous or Low Speed Continuous
Metering mode? Evaluate, Partial, Spot, Center-weighted average
Auto Lighting Optimizer? Disable, Low, Standard, Strong
Drive Mode? High Speed Continuous or Low Speed Continuous
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From some of my searches, Spot metering for sports seems to be popular.
ALO is a method for getting more dynamic range out of your JPEGs by lightening the shadows and pulling in hightlights while remaining smooth. It doesn't affect RAW and has nothing to do with what type of subject you shoot. Shadows can become noisy using this. If you shoot JPEG a lot, try testing comparison shots out to see how you like it.
Faster drive mode can be less accurate since you're forcing it to decide faster. My 7D was missing fine focus more often than I approved of at telephoto distances, so I tried turning the speed down a notch and it was landing focus better than it was at faster default speeds. I am going to do AF micro adjustment later so I keep better accuracy combined with speed.
I shoot soccer in AV mode ( I like to control the DOF ), Evaluative metering, High Speed Drive on my 7D.
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What setting do you use for White Balance?
Don't know, don't care, never pay attention to in-camera white balance. I shoot in RAW and adjust white balance in Lightroom once for 1000 photos.
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What lens?
Many prefer Av mode with appropriate ISO settings which will results in the highest shutter speed, e.g. f5.6, ISO 400 in sunny outdoors with a shutter speed 1/2000 or higher
There are many adjustments that can be done with the 7D, e.g.
AI Servo tracking Sensitivity: Set to -1
I Servo 1st/2nd priority - Set to 0 - AF priority/Tracking Priority
Custom function III-1 AI Servo tracking sensitivity set one step from middle towards Slow
if you are new to the 7D then maybe you should look at an 7D forum or sports forum for tips
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I am using the Canon 70-200mm f2.8L.
Depending on light, I normally shoot at ISO 100-400.
Don't be shy about using 800 or 1600. You HAVE GOT to get that shutter speed up
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1. Manual (unless there are abrupt shadows and bright light, then Av mode)
2. Partial metering
3. Aperture wide open to isolate subject
4. Set ISO as needed
5. SS>1000 (and in daylight usually end up shooting around 1/2000-1/4000 with a fairly low ISO)
6. AF on Servo with tracking priority
7. AF point selectable via the the stick
8. AF point expansion disabled (harder tracking but better focus)
9. High speed burst rate (though don't often use it)
10. Highlight warning enabled on the LCD.
When I get to the field during warmup, I do some test shots to get the exposure correct. In partial metering mode, I scan the field and players to get the exposure right for them: faces and uniforms mostly. If this is correct, all else is less important.
Once the exposure is good--as determined from the histogram and no blown out faces or uniforms--I scan the turf/grass to see what the meter says. I remember this value and use it to make adjustments in the exposure during the game. For example, if a cloud passes over and things get darker, I'll just point the cameras at the turf and adjust exposure until I am back in the right range.
In general, I find that anything other than manual mode causes jumps and unpredictable changes in the exposure. I want to keep the players at the right exposure above all else, but the camera does not know this.
When shooting, I tend to shoot at one end of the field, ideally with the sun behind me. If you are shooting with just a 200mm tele, then standing on the back line will give you ample reach for a lot of good action.
Good luck!
John
Once the exposure is good--as determined from the histogram and no blown out faces or uniforms--I scan the turf/grass to see what the meter says. I remember this value and use it to make adjustments in the exposure during the game. For example, if a cloud passes over and things get darker, I'll just point the cameras at the turf and adjust exposure until I am back in the right range.
John[/QUOTE]
Very clever. Thanks for sharing that trick!
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use a higher ISO to get the fastest shutter speed - 1/2000 - 1/2500- I get nice sharp pics with the 100-400 f5.6
I shoot soccer with a 7D. Manual metering is best if the light isn't changing too quickly. Meter for the faces, set it, and shoot away. This prevents the camera from being fooled by a dark or bright uniform or changing backgrounds.
Shoot wide open, f/2.8 if you have it. This differentiates your shots from the point-n-shoots and f/5.6 lenses.
ALO/WB - what Andy said, shoot RAW, fix this later. For what it's worth, Standard ALO seems to work well, I don't usually worry about this.
Drive mode - high speed continuous, but use it sparingly, like in 2 to 4 shot bursts. Work on your timing, don't just "spray and pray".
More stuff - I like using a single AF point with expansion on. I'll choose the appropriate point and aim for either the face or collar or the waist if there is a feature of contrast there. If aiming for the face or collar, set the camera to automatically switch AF points when you hold it in portrait or landscape orientation. This is in the custom functions somewhere.
Use the back AF-on button to track, use the shutter button to shoot.
Most importantly, shoot from your player's level. So, get down on your knees when shooting kids.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
good advice !
A lens with IS does provide a more stable image presentation for autofocus to latch onto. The flip side is that it takes a bit for the IS to stabilize, actually costing you time. I suggest using IS for panning, but otherwise keeping it off for rapid and unpredictable action/motion.
A tripod with a video head works extremely well for stabilization. I just folded the legs together (like a monopod) when I was close to other players on the sidelines (so that they wouldn't trip on the legs).
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Take some test shots and adjust your shutter speed until the faces look good to you. Adjust ISO to keep shutter speed over 1/1000.
Remember that an accurate reproduction of the scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
IS is mostly useless for sports. You need to use a shutter speed high enough to freeze the action anyway, so it will also be eliminating camera shake. I turn it off unless I am particularly shaky for some reason, and then I only use IS to calm the viewfinder if I feel like it. What Ziggy says about IS helping the AF is true in theory, but I don't think I've noticed a difference in practice. YMMV. If you are very shaky it would be good.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
I agree with Jack on the metering: you'll never get the camera to meter consistently on faces that are moving so quickly. If you shoot manual and get the settings correct before the game starts you'll have much better luck.
I have tried IS (panning mode) and non-IS and don't find any difference with sports. The SS is (or should be) high enough that it doesn't matter.
I second this. You'll lose some pictures with IS this way. I have even from slow panoramic progressions not knowing I was doing it.
Turn it off
Agreed. I have lost far more shots with the IS on than off. I once shot a whole game with the IS on (and not set to panning) and had some horrible shots! If you're shooting in daylight at 1/2000 the IS is useless. Even at lower SS it does more harm than good in my experience.
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Great tips! Especially like the tip of getting down to the players level!
That is one of the biggest things you can do. It doesn't matter if you have the best equipment and you do everything else right, if you shoot down on young players from a standing position, the shots are going to look amateur. I've had several parents ask why their shots don't look like mine, and the answer is in plain sight - I'm kneeling or sitting.
I love when I'm at a game and I see a parent standing up with a monopod (typically attached to the bottom of the camera) and a 70-300. I know their shots are going to suck.
Speaking of monopods, I find I don't need one with a 70-200/2.8, and that it mostly impedes my ability to move around the field. With a 300/2.8, sure, you need the monopod.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
A solid photog by the name of Jessica Kerr, who shot for my old paper on the other side of the coast, taught me that. She had a stepstool in her car, and used it often to climb up, and had no problems going low, low or lower. I recall she snared a spectacular pic of a couple football players sliding through a puddle, because she had the foresight to crouch at the other end of said puddle and wait.
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Would suck be a little too harsh or would it be spot on? I would assume that they won't be as good as yours but they could be decent. Of course I'm one of the guys that stands, uses a monopod (once in awhile) but at least it is't attached to the lens. :uhoh
This thread, along with many other threads in this site has helped me think outside of the box, when it comes to taking better pictures. So I'm grateful for that.
A little off subject, seeing that you own the 5DII & the 7D, which one do you prefer to use for sports?