Anyone think there might be a way, with the silent mode shutter, since it uses an electronic shutter for the 1st curtain, we'll be able to sneak a higher than 1/200 sync???? Hell, I'd drop down to 3fps if I could sync at 1/320 like a 1Dv.
If all you want is 1/320, just get a set of PW mini / Flex's... You'll get an extra whole stop or two of sync power all the way up at 1/8000 sec.
I have heard that there are ways to trick the electronic shutter, some that involve blocking certain pins on the hotshoe flash etc. But I don't know anything other than heresay and urban myths. ;-)
If all you want is 1/320, just get a set of PW mini / Flex's... You'll get an extra whole stop or two of sync power all the way up at 1/8000 sec.
I have heard that there are ways to trick the electronic shutter, some that involve blocking certain pins on the hotshoe flash etc. But I don't know anything other than heresay and urban myths. ;-)
=Matt=
OK, without using HSS mode which is crap since it's using pulses of flash not full power flash... which is what the flex/etc. gives you the ability to use.
Anyone think there might be a way, with the silent mode shutter, since it uses an electronic shutter for the 1st curtain, we'll be able to sneak a higher than 1/200 sync???? Hell, I'd drop down to 3fps if I could sync at 1/320 like a 1Dv.
The Canon 5D MKIII appears to be using a very similar shutter assembly and mirror assembly to the 5D MKII. If you could not do it on the 5D MKII, likely you will not be able to do it with the 5D MKIII.
If you want the better shutter box and mirror box of the Canon 1D series, you need to purchase a 1D series body.
OK, without using HSS mode which is crap since it's using pulses of flash not full power flash... which is what the flex/etc. gives you the ability to use.
I dunno, have you tried the PW Flex / Mini system? They're claiming that it adds a LOT of power to HSS. I haven't tried it myself, but many are saying how it's really opened up new realms of possibility for them.
When all else fails, of course, just suck up the cost of an extra flash or three, or a real studio strobe pack, slap on an ND filter, and shoot at your sync limit. Problem solved.
I have tried (and succeffully used) PW Mini "timing hack" on 5D2 and 7D with both Profoto and AlienBees lights. Both are studio stobes and do not support HSS. It's simply a matter of a precise timing offset.
However, the said offset may be different for different units/models/brands (especially brands), so when shooting with multiple lights it's all becoming a bit of a moot point. So I stopped using it for my regular shoots. However, if I know that I'll be using just 2-3 identical lights and for some reason I'd need a faster shutter speed I am certain it's doable.
YMMV
Do you have LR, overfocused? Easy enough to import into LR > convert to tif/dng > edit in PS as needed....
I can always use the DNG converter which I hate... it generates files much larger than the RAWs initially are. If LR can view the RAW file to work on it that may be a better option for me. I can always use CS4 afterward to process the tiffs for things LR can't do. The main problem is that my bridge/cs4 combo won't even be able to see a friggen preview now.
I'm tired of having to buy a completely new version because of 'incompatibility' Its just set up that way to force a user into buying a completely new version of their software. I'd gladly pay $100 to buy an upgrade of camera RAW if they'd make it a standalone/plugin that integrates with previous versions of Photoshop and Bridge. I'm sick of having to buy the whole damn car to use ACR instead of just getting a new set of tires.
I'm going to have a try at Rawtherapee, Canons RAW software, and a trial of the newest version of LR and see whats best.
If LR can view the RAW file to work on it that may be a better option for me. I can always use CS4 afterward to process the tiffs for things LR can't do. The main problem is that my bridge/cs4 combo won't even be able to see a friggen preview now.
Not that I know of - I was just thinking that it would be more likely to add the engine (doesn't it usually?), whereas an older version of CS might not.
Not that I know of - I was just thinking that it would be more likely to add the engine (doesn't it usually?), whereas an older version of CS might not.
Adobe is working on a patch for LR 4 to be able to use MKIII images. Its not available yet.
They're lagging behind a bit. Gotta use the software included for now.
I believe that the 5D MKIII will have a similar, or identical, AF "module", compared to the 1D X, but the AF "system" will be different.
It's important to understand the distinction, because the 2 bodies may be very different in AF properties (or they may not be too different). It will take some time to test, and the AF properties of the 1D X are not known yet.
This comparison is what I want to see. Low light AF is something my 5D MkI struggles with at times. Also 1D X is 14 FPS; 5D MkIII is 6 FPS. I got the 50D a few years back since my 5DMkI was only 3 FPS. That issue is now gone, and I'm not sure that i need 8 more FPS for $3000+.
"Don't ask me what I think of you, I might not give the answer that you want me to. Oh well."
-Fleetwood Mac
This comparison is what I want to see. Low light AF is something my 5D MkI struggles with at times. Also 1D X is 14 FPS; 5D MkIII is 6 FPS. I got the 50D a few years back since my 5DMkI was only 3 FPS. That issue is now gone, and I'm not sure that i need 8 more FPS for $3000+.
Good Evening,
I never have AF issues in low and sometimes, no light with my 5D, since I always use center point focus. Here's a shot taken in total darkness, using just a 3'', 6 LED flash light. While my 5D2 is even more impressive, it's been sent back to Canon for banding issues at higher iso's.
Have a good evening
Jim...
Good Evening,
I never have AF issues in low and sometimes, no light with my 5D, since I always use center point focus. Here's a shot taken in total darkness, using just a 3'', 6 LED flash light. While my 5D2 is even more impressive, it's been sent back to Canon for banding issues at higher iso's.
Have a good evening
Jim...
Well of course it works if you have a flashlight... I don't think that counts as total darkness anymore, lol. You can do that with flash IR beam assist as well if your external flash supports it.
Would be interested to see some pics where everything's being pushed.
eg BIF shots, in low light / poor conditions (snow, rain, textured bg) @ 5.6 AF limit ... eg 500 f4 +1.4tc, off centre AF point(s) or low (water) level similar over water where glare + specular highlights etc make life 'interesting' .
Well of course it works if you have a flashlight... I don't think that counts as total darkness anymore, lol. You can do that with flash IR beam assist as well if your external flash supports it.
Good Morning,
The point I was making is that my 5D doesn't have any low light af issues if I use the center point focus. I don't use a flash in the tunnel because the bright flash of light may cause some of the workers to panic. My 5D2 is the same way. I have a few low light shots that were illuminated with nothing more then a miner's light on a hard hat.
Have a good day
Jim...
Good Morning,
The point I was making is that my 5D doesn't have any low light af issues if I use the center point focus. I don't use a flash in the tunnel because the bright flash of light may cause some of the workers to panic. My 5D2 is the same way. I have a few low light shots that were illuminated with nothing more then a miner's light on a hard hat.
Have a good day
Jim...
Thanks Jim for your feedback. I think Overfocused may have been more along the track I was following. I shoot outdoors at night (urban settings) or indoors with low dispersed ambient light with my 5D MkII and my 35 L, at ISO 1600, center focus. But it does hunt at times. Not horrible by any means, but better AF would be nice.
"Don't ask me what I think of you, I might not give the answer that you want me to. Oh well."
-Fleetwood Mac
Thanks Jim for your feedback. I think Overfocused may have been more along the track I was following. I shoot outdoors at night (urban settings) or indoors with low dispersed ambient light with my 5D MkII and my 35 L, at ISO 1600, center focus. But it does hunt at times. Not horrible by any means, but better AF would be nice.
Ok. I guess some lenses do hunt in low light. I've only used my 35 2.0, and 50 1.8 at night. Might have to try my Tamron 24-135. While it's never hunted during the day, it is noisy and s-l-o-w :cry
Have a good evening
Jim...
Ran down to the fishing docks tonight with the 5D3 and EF 50 1.8. This was ISO 12800 at f1.8 1/40 sec shutter (handheld). Little noise reduction in LR4 on raw file. I guess thats useable if you don't blow it up too much.
Comments
If all you want is 1/320, just get a set of PW mini / Flex's... You'll get an extra whole stop or two of sync power all the way up at 1/8000 sec.
I have heard that there are ways to trick the electronic shutter, some that involve blocking certain pins on the hotshoe flash etc. But I don't know anything other than heresay and urban myths. ;-)
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
OK, without using HSS mode which is crap since it's using pulses of flash not full power flash... which is what the flex/etc. gives you the ability to use.
The Canon 5D MKIII appears to be using a very similar shutter assembly and mirror assembly to the 5D MKII. If you could not do it on the 5D MKII, likely you will not be able to do it with the 5D MKIII.
If you want the better shutter box and mirror box of the Canon 1D series, you need to purchase a 1D series body.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I dunno, have you tried the PW Flex / Mini system? They're claiming that it adds a LOT of power to HSS. I haven't tried it myself, but many are saying how it's really opened up new realms of possibility for them.
When all else fails, of course, just suck up the cost of an extra flash or three, or a real studio strobe pack, slap on an ND filter, and shoot at your sync limit. Problem solved.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
However, the said offset may be different for different units/models/brands (especially brands), so when shooting with multiple lights it's all becoming a bit of a moot point. So I stopped using it for my regular shoots. However, if I know that I'll be using just 2-3 identical lights and for some reason I'd need a faster shutter speed I am certain it's doable.
YMMV
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/canon-5d-mkiii/canon-5d-mkiiiA7.HTM
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I'm impressed. Can't wait for it to arrive. Thanks Ziggy
http://danielplumer.com/
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Adobe pleeeeeease don't make me buy CS5 just to use a slightly new version of the same format or I'll abandon you for good.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
You don't really need to convert, I mean LR would do it in the background, but you could just "Edit in..." with LR adjustments.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
I can always use the DNG converter which I hate... it generates files much larger than the RAWs initially are. If LR can view the RAW file to work on it that may be a better option for me. I can always use CS4 afterward to process the tiffs for things LR can't do. The main problem is that my bridge/cs4 combo won't even be able to see a friggen preview now.
I'm tired of having to buy a completely new version because of 'incompatibility' Its just set up that way to force a user into buying a completely new version of their software. I'd gladly pay $100 to buy an upgrade of camera RAW if they'd make it a standalone/plugin that integrates with previous versions of Photoshop and Bridge. I'm sick of having to buy the whole damn car to use ACR instead of just getting a new set of tires.
I'm going to have a try at Rawtherapee, Canons RAW software, and a trial of the newest version of LR and see whats best.
Replace Bridge with LR and you're all set.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
Adobe is working on a patch for LR 4 to be able to use MKIII images. Its not available yet.
They're lagging behind a bit. Gotta use the software included for now.
http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/cameraraw6-7/
This ACR 6.7 RC supports 5DMkIII :-)
Sorry, nothing for LR yet!
This comparison is what I want to see. Low light AF is something my 5D MkI struggles with at times. Also 1D X is 14 FPS; 5D MkIII is 6 FPS. I got the 50D a few years back since my 5DMkI was only 3 FPS. That issue is now gone, and I'm not sure that i need 8 more FPS for $3000+.
-Fleetwood Mac
So Nik, how is the low light AF ?
-Fleetwood Mac
Awesome! No struggle at all...
Good Evening,
I never have AF issues in low and sometimes, no light with my 5D, since I always use center point focus. Here's a shot taken in total darkness, using just a 3'', 6 LED flash light. While my 5D2 is even more impressive, it's been sent back to Canon for banding issues at higher iso's.
Have a good evening
Jim...
Well of course it works if you have a flashlight... I don't think that counts as total darkness anymore, lol. You can do that with flash IR beam assist as well if your external flash supports it.
eg BIF shots, in low light / poor conditions (snow, rain, textured bg) @ 5.6 AF limit ... eg 500 f4 +1.4tc, off centre AF point(s) or low (water) level similar over water where glare + specular highlights etc make life 'interesting' .
pp
Flickr
The point I was making is that my 5D doesn't have any low light af issues if I use the center point focus. I don't use a flash in the tunnel because the bright flash of light may cause some of the workers to panic. My 5D2 is the same way. I have a few low light shots that were illuminated with nothing more then a miner's light on a hard hat.
Have a good day
Jim...
Thanks Jim for your feedback. I think Overfocused may have been more along the track I was following. I shoot outdoors at night (urban settings) or indoors with low dispersed ambient light with my 5D MkII and my 35 L, at ISO 1600, center focus. But it does hunt at times. Not horrible by any means, but better AF would be nice.
-Fleetwood Mac
Have a good evening
Jim...