Nice! Love that sound as the waves recede over the pebbles. Yeah, the weather has not been cooperating with new camera fever!! Pretty sure if you have ALO on in the camera, that it will be applied to the jpegs it writes.
Dude - give DPP another try. DLO should be a boon for landscapes.
You choose
One is straight out of camera with ALO on. One is processed in LR 4.1 RC 2. One is processed in DPP.
I will say DPP is slightly less awful than it used to be
Need some help with AF.
I'm sure it's user error but would like to figure this out before sending the camera in for the sensor cleaning.
Compared to my 50d, I feel like my keeper rate is not where it should be. Shot my 4 and 6 yo with the 70-200/4 is yesterday in good light and had shutter speeds of 200-800 depending on cloud cover. Had the 6 yo run by me and missed critical focus on most shots. Some behind, some in front.
This morning used the 70-200 and 24-105 to shoot my girl in her room. F/4 shutter 1/250. Focus on back LCD when zoomed in didn't seem spot on. Tried to quickly dial in +5 and -5 micro adjustment to no avail.
Used Case 1 yesterday til switching to Case 4
Tried spot and expand AF.
When the camera did get focus (and I got critical sharpness maybe 30-40% of the time), it was scary sharp. Iris detail and all that. Most of the time it seemed okay but zooming in showed that it was slightly off.
I also tried to turn is off this am and did not notice a difference.
Aby suggestions for dummy proof AF settings and test scenarios to get a handle on this?
Thanks
1, LR. 2, DPP. 3, camera. I like 2 best. But hey if LR is what you're used to and that's how you work best that's great. I've tried LR a few times and each time I just can't get into working it and also I don't like the default colors as well - although last time I tried it I discovered that you can apply camera color profiles, and that gives the color I'm used to. But again, that's an extra step. DPP is so easy for me. Also DLO is great for pixel peeping and printing big.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
I do recommend turning off IS for most action photography. The notable exception is for panning motion of subjects with a predictable and smooth path of motion.
For active kids in close quarters I recommend AI-Servo mode. Remember that AI-Servo uses "predictive" autofocus and it requires around 1/2 second to sample the subject after you half-depress the shutter button (and you should try to track the subject during that time), and then you should squeeze off a few frames (a short burst sequence).
If you just try to mash down the shutter it does not give the predictive AF system time to sample and you will not be as successful.
The Canon 5D MKIII also has lots of additional settings to fine tune the AF algorithms, to help accommodate things like distractive items in the frame or distractive subjects that may quickly move through the frame. There are also AF point/region selection options to consider.
Ziggy - thanks. I mostly used ai servo but tried some one shot this am to compare. I have read through the 1dx AF info from Canon and will check again. I should note that I have is turned on all the time and only turn it off when the camera is on a tripod. Figured it could only help even at 1/400...
Oh and no mashing involved. Gave the camera plenty of time to track and settle.
My experience is consistent with what Ziggy says, you have to give the AF a little time to acquire a moving subject before you go for the full press. I've been very impressed with my 5D3's AF, coming from a 1D2N and a 7D. It is possible your unit is out of spec though. My 7D was. Sent it back and had it back in my hands in 7 days and it was much improved. If you're sending it in for a cleaning anyway, it couldn't hurt to have them look at the AF. I would do this for peace of mind at least.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Found out that it was a real good idea for me to have kept my old Tamron 1.4x TC. Works great with the 400 f/5.6. It vignettes (a lot) along the corners, but AF is still very speedy at f/8.0. The EXIF and the camera still see f/5.6 because the reporting contacts are not present on the Tammy's as they are with the Canon TC's. The Canon 1.4x TC still renders superior results, but does not allow AF on the III.
Another find is that the Kenko extension tube set (including all of them stacked together!) still allow AF to work at something like f/13 with a 5.6 lens, like the 400 L. That is amazing, and I didn't see too much vignetting with those.
Still, I'd like to see some firmware update that allows native focus at f/8, now that we have a decent AF system on the cam.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
David, you can always tape the pins on Canon's. Mine's been taped for years...
Yes, there's that too. Would duct tape do better? I hear it can fix so many issues.
And with that, since I use DPP as a processing front end, the Lens Corrections tab wouldn't register the Canon TC, would it? Normally, DPP recognizes the presence of the TC and can also correct for it, and it would not be included in the exif. Not that the Tammy would show up either.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Charging batteries. I've found that if you unplug the charger when it is lit continuously right away, the battery will not last long. When you leave it plugged in for several hours after it stays lit, then the battery will last a whole lot longer.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
David-
Apparently it takes a few full charge/discharge cycles before you reach good capacity on these batteries. I'm letting mine die with video practice to get them up to speed.
Did a straight running test of the AF. Using both 70-200 and 24-105. With and without IS. On Case 1. Camera is definitely off. Mostly backfocus but enough that I don't think microadjustment would do enough. I'm done wasting my time testing this thing. UPS label arrived for the cleaning. Only decision now is whether to send lenses too and make sure they are all tuned correctly.
Yes, there's that too. Would duct tape do better? I hear it can fix so many issues.
And with that, since I use DPP as a processing front end, the Lens Corrections tab wouldn't register the Canon TC, would it? Normally, DPP recognizes the presence of the TC and can also correct for it, and it would not be included in the exif. Not that the Tammy would show up either.
You want the thinnest insulation film possible. Sorry, no duct tape here ;-)
Well, you have to decided what's more important to you - AF or lens correction. Typically long focal lenses do not have a whole lot to compensate for any way, so I'd choose AF, but it's me. I only use TC on top of my 100-400 when I'm shooting something uber far away (like the moon, or those bears at Beargasm in Glacier NP in 2007), so at that point the lens correction is the least of my worries, but correct focusing often is...
Nik, you know I was kidding when I asked about the duct tape, right?
I sure did winkrofl, but other people (who don't know either you or me) read this forum, too, and they may have gotten a wrong idea and ruin their gear , so I thought I'd rather save some poor schmuck $150
So I'd better not make that Super Glue suggestion I was gonna make then.... rats.
So, moving on, I just did a couple hours of handheld night shooting around town with ISO's from 50 to 25K. Going through a whole lot of shots after some wine and cheese . Might post some here in a bit.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Did a straight running test of the AF. Using both 70-200 and 24-105. With and without IS. On Case 1. Camera is definitely off. Mostly backfocus but enough that I don't think microadjustment would do enough. I'm done wasting my time testing this thing. UPS label arrived for the cleaning. Only decision now is whether to send lenses too and make sure they are all tuned correctly.
Yep even with our mk3 that seems to have an issue locking focus in One-Shot, I have found Ai-Servo plus 9-point AF point clusters + "Case 3" to be AMAZING at nailing anything and everything I point it at. And this is on a nearly pitch-black dance floor with extremely erratic subjects.
As others have said, for such erratic and fast-moving subjects you do have let the camera hone in before it starts tracking beautifully, but after that it's just keeper after keeper. Not 100%, but still 100X better than the mk2. The mk2 was absolutely un-usable using AI-Servo on a dark dance floor.
The village fair was in town tonight, so that was a perfect opportunity for a shake-out of the III in dim conditions. It did pretty well. I did notice some unfortunate hot pixels in some shots, which could be easily cloned away in post. The ISO's and noise aren't magic, but are a world away from what I experienced with the 40D.
The Wheel 0.6 sec, f/5.6, ISO 100, 93mm, hand held.
Freak Out! Ummm, please read the EXIF below the shot. It took about 25 tries to get this one hand held. 1.3 sec, f/25, ISO 50, 200mm, hand held.
Matterhorn 1/30th, f/8, ISO 400, 138mm, hand held.
Hard Sell 1/5th, f/6.4, ISO 100, 200mm, hand held.
Wheee! 1/500th, f/4, ISO 3200, 200mm, hand held.
All's Quiet a Block Away 1/25th, f/15, ISO 3200, 200mm, hand held.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Yep even with our mk3 that seems to have an issue locking focus in One-Shot, I have found Ai-Servo plus 9-point AF point clusters + "Case 3" to be AMAZING at nailing anything and everything I point it at. And this is on a nearly pitch-black dance floor with extremely erratic subjects.
As others have said, for such erratic and fast-moving subjects you do have let the camera hone in before it starts tracking beautifully, but after that it's just keeper after keeper. Not 100%, but still 100X better than the mk2. The mk2 was absolutely un-usable using AI-Servo on a dark dance floor.
=Matt=
Man... you're making this seem like a MUST BUY for me (with all my frustrations with the 5DII AF)... especially with the double rebates when you buy a lens with it right now... oh credit cards, forgive me!
My replacement 5D MKIII showed up today (first one locked up quite a bit), and battery is fully charged now. I'm going to start my second round of the first 24 hours tomorrow.
My replacement 5D MKIII showed up today (first one locked up quite a bit), and battery is fully charged now. I'm going to start my second round of the first 24 hours tomorrow.
Sensor problem?
I just got mine few days ago. It is an amazing camera. I did some shots at ISO102400 and noticed strange sensor behavior at the lower right corner. Can someone comment on that? Not that I will be shooting at that ISO but I want to make sure that I didn't buy 3500 dollar camera with faulty sensor.
I'll let the more knowlegdeable respond as to whether that looks like it is indeed a problem, but...
I did some shots at ISO102400 and noticed strange sensor behavior at the lower right corner.
I mean... isn't it LIKELY that there will be some strange sensor behaviour at those kinds of ISOs?!?!?! Just 4 years ago it was all about iso 800. Just saying....
I of course take your point that at that kind of price you want to be sure that there's nothing wrong with it, but even so. 102,400. Just... wow. :jawdrop
I just got mine few days ago. It is an amazing camera. I did some shots at ISO102400 and noticed strange sensor behavior at the lower right corner. Can someone comment on that? Not that I will be shooting at that ISO but I want to make sure that I didn't buy 3500 dollar camera with faulty sensor.
What were you shooting, back of the lenscap?
Looks like a random noise due to the total and utter lack of light.. Or, more likely, a stray light from a light source that your eyes couldn't even recognize as one. Someone stroke a match a hundred yards away or something...
102K ISO is a H2, i.e. twice-extended, way out of "normal" (25K - normal , man, I love technology !) ISO range. High level of noise is expected. And if you shooting in a pitch black environment you may (and will) get all sorts of random effects.
Comments
You choose
One is straight out of camera with ALO on. One is processed in LR 4.1 RC 2. One is processed in DPP.
I will say DPP is slightly less awful than it used to be
1
2
3
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
I'm sure it's user error but would like to figure this out before sending the camera in for the sensor cleaning.
Compared to my 50d, I feel like my keeper rate is not where it should be. Shot my 4 and 6 yo with the 70-200/4 is yesterday in good light and had shutter speeds of 200-800 depending on cloud cover. Had the 6 yo run by me and missed critical focus on most shots. Some behind, some in front.
This morning used the 70-200 and 24-105 to shoot my girl in her room. F/4 shutter 1/250. Focus on back LCD when zoomed in didn't seem spot on. Tried to quickly dial in +5 and -5 micro adjustment to no avail.
Used Case 1 yesterday til switching to Case 4
Tried spot and expand AF.
When the camera did get focus (and I got critical sharpness maybe 30-40% of the time), it was scary sharp. Iris detail and all that. Most of the time it seemed okay but zooming in showed that it was slightly off.
I also tried to turn is off this am and did not notice a difference.
Aby suggestions for dummy proof AF settings and test scenarios to get a handle on this?
Thanks
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
For active kids in close quarters I recommend AI-Servo mode. Remember that AI-Servo uses "predictive" autofocus and it requires around 1/2 second to sample the subject after you half-depress the shutter button (and you should try to track the subject during that time), and then you should squeeze off a few frames (a short burst sequence).
If you just try to mash down the shutter it does not give the predictive AF system time to sample and you will not be as successful.
The Canon 5D MKIII also has lots of additional settings to fine tune the AF algorithms, to help accommodate things like distractive items in the frame or distractive subjects that may quickly move through the frame. There are also AF point/region selection options to consider.
http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_pts_article.shtml
http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/5d3_multiple_af_points.htmlp
http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_menu_article.shtml
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-DSLR-Camera-Review.aspx
http://thomascampbellphoto.com/how-to/canon-5d-mark-iii-custom-settings/
While the following is for the Canon 1D MKIII, it might offer some combinations of things to try on the 5D MKIII:
http://www.pressefotografforbundet.dk/fil/eos1dmk3_af_cfn_guide.pdf
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Ziggy - thanks. I mostly used ai servo but tried some one shot this am to compare. I have read through the 1dx AF info from Canon and will check again. I should note that I have is turned on all the time and only turn it off when the camera is on a tripod. Figured it could only help even at 1/400...
Oh and no mashing involved. Gave the camera plenty of time to track and settle.
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
BS!
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
I cloned out the tree at top and caution tape behind tree on right in cs5 on the LR one
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
Where is that anyway, Stramsky's?
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
Found out that it was a real good idea for me to have kept my old Tamron 1.4x TC. Works great with the 400 f/5.6. It vignettes (a lot) along the corners, but AF is still very speedy at f/8.0. The EXIF and the camera still see f/5.6 because the reporting contacts are not present on the Tammy's as they are with the Canon TC's. The Canon 1.4x TC still renders superior results, but does not allow AF on the III.
Another find is that the Kenko extension tube set (including all of them stacked together!) still allow AF to work at something like f/13 with a 5.6 lens, like the 400 L. That is amazing, and I didn't see too much vignetting with those.
Still, I'd like to see some firmware update that allows native focus at f/8, now that we have a decent AF system on the cam.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
David, you can always tape the pins on Canon's. Mine's been taped for years...
Yes, there's that too. Would duct tape do better? I hear it can fix so many issues.
And with that, since I use DPP as a processing front end, the Lens Corrections tab wouldn't register the Canon TC, would it? Normally, DPP recognizes the presence of the TC and can also correct for it, and it would not be included in the exif. Not that the Tammy would show up either.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Apparently it takes a few full charge/discharge cycles before you reach good capacity on these batteries. I'm letting mine die with video practice to get them up to speed.
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
My site | Non-MHD Landscapes |Google+ | Twitter | Facebook | Smugmug photos
You want the thinnest insulation film possible. Sorry, no duct tape here ;-)
Well, you have to decided what's more important to you - AF or lens correction. Typically long focal lenses do not have a whole lot to compensate for any way, so I'd choose AF, but it's me. I only use TC on top of my 100-400 when I'm shooting something uber far away (like the moon, or those bears at Beargasm in Glacier NP in 2007), so at that point the lens correction is the least of my worries, but correct focusing often is...
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
I sure did
So, moving on, I just did a couple hours of handheld night shooting around town with ISO's from 50 to 25K. Going through a whole lot of shots after some wine and cheese
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Yep even with our mk3 that seems to have an issue locking focus in One-Shot, I have found Ai-Servo plus 9-point AF point clusters + "Case 3" to be AMAZING at nailing anything and everything I point it at. And this is on a nearly pitch-black dance floor with extremely erratic subjects.
As others have said, for such erratic and fast-moving subjects you do have let the camera hone in before it starts tracking beautifully, but after that it's just keeper after keeper. Not 100%, but still 100X better than the mk2. The mk2 was absolutely un-usable using AI-Servo on a dark dance floor.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
The Wheel
0.6 sec, f/5.6, ISO 100, 93mm, hand held.
Freak Out! Ummm, please read the EXIF below the shot. It took about 25 tries to get this one hand held.
1.3 sec, f/25, ISO 50, 200mm, hand held.
Matterhorn
1/30th, f/8, ISO 400, 138mm, hand held.
Hard Sell
1/5th, f/6.4, ISO 100, 200mm, hand held.
Wheee!
1/500th, f/4, ISO 3200, 200mm, hand held.
All's Quiet a Block Away
1/25th, f/15, ISO 3200, 200mm, hand held.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Man... you're making this seem like a MUST BUY for me (with all my frustrations with the 5DII AF)... especially with the double rebates when you buy a lens with it right now... oh credit cards, forgive me!
Some dance recital action over here.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Pete
Congratulations on the new (replacement) camera.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I just got mine few days ago. It is an amazing camera. I did some shots at ISO102400 and noticed strange sensor behavior at the lower right corner. Can someone comment on that? Not that I will be shooting at that ISO but I want to make sure that I didn't buy 3500 dollar camera with faulty sensor.
I mean... isn't it LIKELY that there will be some strange sensor behaviour at those kinds of ISOs?!?!?! Just 4 years ago it was all about iso 800. Just saying....
I of course take your point that at that kind of price you want to be sure that there's nothing wrong with it, but even so. 102,400. Just... wow. :jawdrop
What were you shooting, back of the lenscap?
Looks like a random noise due to the total and utter lack of light..
102K ISO is a H2, i.e. twice-extended, way out of "normal" (25K - normal