I'll let the more knowlegdeable respond as to whether that looks like it is indeed a problem, but...
I mean... isn't it LIKELY that there will be some strange sensor behaviour at those kinds of ISOs?!?!?! Just 4 years ago it was all about iso 800. Just saying....
I of course take your point that at that kind of price you want to be sure that there's nothing wrong with it, but even so. 102,400. Just... wow. :jawdrop
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I realize I may be "paranoid" about it.... 25600 looks very clean and I totally understand what you said about expecting noise at that high ISO. Hopefully, other 5DMIII owners have the same "problem".
What were you shooting, back of the lenscap?
Looks like a random noise due to the total and utter lack of light.. Or, more likely, a stray light from a light source that your eyes couldn't even recognize as one. Someone stroke a match a hundred yards away or something...
102K ISO is a H2, i.e. twice-extended, way out of "normal" (25K - normal , man, I love technology !) ISO range. High level of noise is expected. And if you shooting in a pitch black environment you may (and will) get all sorts of random effects.
Thanks for your comment. I wanted to see the noise levels from 12800 and up, shooting in M mode 1/200 f/8, manual focus, lens cap on . My concern, after looking at the shots, was: did I buy 3500 dollar camera with "bad" sensor?
Totally.
I wouldn't worry. It's not even the official top LCD light leak issue... When you shoot with the lens cap on at ISO 100K, even the stray light from the VF can cause any number of light pollution effects...
Now, stop measurebating and go take some solar eclipse pictures!
"May the f/stop be with you!"
0
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
I just got mine few days ago. It is an amazing camera. I did some shots at ISO102400 and noticed strange sensor behavior at the lower right corner. Can someone comment on that? Not that I will be shooting at that ISO but I want to make sure that I didn't buy 3500 dollar camera with faulty sensor.
Until you shoot the shot in a dark closet with the LCD illumination turned off, we'll never know. But it could be thermal blooming, that was a common issue back in the day. Although with the battery in the lower right of the camera and that blooming coming from the upper left of the sensor, (remember the image is recorded upside down and backwards) ...I don't think that is the likely culprit.
Totally.
I wouldn't worry. It's not even the official top LCD light leak issue... When you shoot with the lens cap on at ISO 100K, even the stray light from the VF can cause any number of light pollution effects...
Now, stop measurebating and go take some solar eclipse pictures!
First soccer photos
Nothing serious, just a couple shots from a 1st-grade practice. But this was a big test for me as both my kids play and I enjoy shooting Soccer very much. Fall is the real season, with nice uniforms and real games. AF and IQ is better than my old 7D. All due respect to the excellent 7D, but even at 50% view, which I consider realistic, 5D3 images just pop and sparkle more, and the keeper rate seems higher. Slower FPS didn't bother me as I try to time my shots anyway and I only sometimes do a 2 or 3 shot burst to pick the winner. I dig the thinner DOF of full frame for Soccer. The trade-off is having to be patient for the action to come closer due to the significant decrease in reach. But I am definitely going to try to see if I can work within this limitation to enjoy the DOF and speed of FF f/2.8, and the AF of a bare lens, rather than settling for a 1.4x TC.
Nothing special but I think it shows the DOF well. And this was only 165mm:
Obligatory 100% crop:
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
The trade-off is having to be patient for the action to come closer due to the significant decrease in reach. But I am definitely going to try to see if I can work within this limitation...
Do you really need to wait for the action to come closer due to the crop-sensor vs full-frame affect on lens reach...can't you achieve basically the same results with a crop in post-production?
Just picked up my 5D3! I haven't even turned it on yet, but I did unwrap it and I can tell you it's a world of difference in terms of build quality and ergonomics. Got to finish up some errands, and then I'll be testing it this evening with a complete Canon lens lineup from the 16-35mm all the way up to the 800mm. So stoked!
Josh - so after a couple of months with your 5Dm3, what glass do you find yourself reaching for most often? My style of travel/adventure photography is similar to yours (although you are better ), and I am really struggling to determine which glass to buy to replace my beloved 10-22 and 17-55 ef-s on my 50D. My 5Dm3 arrives in two days, so I'll initially use my 24-105 and 70-200. I simply can't decide on where to go with the wide and ultra-wide, been researching for several weeks. So many trade-offs when it comes to Canon in the wide-end of the range (corner clarity, weight, filter size, max aperture, etc). I know I'm not the only one struggling with this and Matthew has also given some great advice so far to others, so thanks for that =Matt=.
here's where i'm at so far, and changing my mind daily:
(a) 16-35 or 17-40 or go prime with Canon or Zeiss (although I can't imagine not having AF)
(b) 24-70 f2.8 or wait for 24-70 II, or go with equivalent Tamron, or go prime.
My primary usage is relatively low-light events/parties, travel imagery in diverse locations (including landscapes), environmental portraits, and the like.
I'm willing to spend another $3k or so on two new lenses to supplement my 70-200 f4, 24-105 f4, and 50 1.2
Do you really need to wait for the action to come closer due to the crop-sensor vs full-frame affect on lens reach...can't you achieve basically the same results with a crop in post-production?
Yes you can, but you'll end up with "only" 8.6mp if you apply a 1.6 crop factor yourself in post. That's certainly acceptable but I find it easier to see the right moment with my subject filling more of my viewfinder.
Like I said, I don't think I'll need a TC, but we'll see.
As for your wide-angle question, I love my 17-40L. DPP/DLO fixes its faults, imo.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Josh - so after a couple of months with your 5Dm3, what glass do you find yourself reaching for most often? My style of travel/adventure photography is similar to yours (although you are better ), and I am really struggling to determine which glass to buy to replace my beloved 10-22 and 17-55 ef-s on my 50D. My 5Dm3 arrives in two days, so I'll initially use my 24-105 and 70-200. I simply can't decide on where to go with the wide and ultra-wide, been researching for several weeks. So many trade-offs when it comes to Canon in the wide-end of the range (corner clarity, weight, filter size, max aperture, etc). I know I'm not the only one struggling with this and Matthew has also given some great advice so far to others, so thanks for that =Matt=.
here's where i'm at so far, and changing my mind daily:
(a) 16-35 or 17-40 or go prime with Canon or Zeiss (although I can't imagine not having AF)
(b) 24-70 f2.8 or wait for 24-70 II, or go with equivalent Tamron, or go prime.
My primary usage is relatively low-light events/parties, travel imagery in diverse locations (including landscapes), environmental portraits, and the like.
I'm willing to spend another $3k or so on two new lenses to supplement my 70-200 f4, 24-105 f4, and 50 1.2
Thanks!
By far my most used and favorite piece of glass is the 50 1.2. My wide angle in the 16-35 2.8 II and when used with good technique this yields great results. Telephoto duties go to the 85 1.2 II or 70-200 2.8 II.
Here's my suggestion: Sell the 70-200 f4 and 24-105 f4. Buy 16-35 2.8 II and 70-200 2.8 II. Check out the 17mm or 24mm tilt shifts. Those are next on my list.
The 24-70 is just far too convenient! I used one for a few weeks awhile back and was surprised how much it altered my "look" in a bad way. It works well for everything from a technical standpoint but lacks the creative requirement of lens selection and foot zooming for composure. I feel composure is the most important piece of a great shot, and that starts with foot zooming to the right angle. With the 24-70 you can get a passing shot from almost anywhere...which is what you end up doing. (This is why I like the 50 so much; it's FOV is normal and not distracting while it forces you to consider composure, distance and angle first when making a shot.) I would not have a 24-70 in my wedding/portrait bag, but for family photos and anything I would shoot with and point-and-shoot...sure.
I haven't shared much lately(getting into my busy season), so I thought I would whip up a little tych in Photoshop for my fellow Dgrinners. All 5D3 images from the past few weeks. Lot's of family stuff, and a few wedding/engagement shots.
Most everything is OOC jpeg, which is my newly preferred workflow(or lack thereof ). Still loving my 5D3 and could never go back to the 5D2. EVERY thing about this camera is better...way better.
The DPR 5D3 review is finally up. It's a great read, and I've learned several new customization routines from reading it. Very helpful info.
I was surprised to read about their distaste for the out-of-camera JPEGS (becoming muddy due to aggressive NR), particularly since we are hearing otherwise from a couple members on this board. In any case, if that turns out to be a common complaint, seems like a firmware-capable tweak.
By far my most used and favorite piece of glass is the 50 1.2. My wide angle in the 16-35 2.8 II and when used with good technique this yields great results. Telephoto duties go to the 85 1.2 II or 70-200 2.8 II.
Here's my suggestion: Sell the 70-200 f4 and 24-105 f4. Buy 16-35 2.8 II and 70-200 2.8 II. Check out the 17mm or 24mm tilt shifts. Those are next on my list.
Thanks Josh! Good stuff. Nice to hear you like the 50 1.2 so much. I bought that lens for my 50D just a couple of weeks ago, but only used it once so far. My 5dm3 arrives today.
Josh - with the 50 1.2 on the 5dm3, are the non-center focus points accurate enough to compose with them? Or are you focusing with center-point and recomposing (which can be tricky at or near wide open). Many reports I read on the 5dm2 recommended using only the focus and recompose method.
I was surprised to read about their distaste for the out-of-camera JPEGS (becoming muddy due to aggressive NR), particularly since we are hearing otherwise from a couple members on this board. In any case, if that turns out to be a common complaint, seems like a firmware-capable tweak.
I very much agree. JPEG shooting is very painful for me if file size isn't my concern. Which, really, it never has been. Memory is relatively cheap - even the expensive stuff! Even with NR off, its not what RAW can get at all in terms of micro detail and sharpness.
I very much agree. JPEG shooting is very painful for me if file size isn't my concern. Which, really, it never has been. Memory is relatively cheap - even the expensive stuff! Even with NR off, its not what RAW can get at all in terms of micro detail and sharpness.
True, but for informal candids during parties around the house, family stuff, etc, I like the idea of instantly getting beautiful JPEGS (with nice pop, clarity, contrast, etc) to share instead of feeling like I need to process *everything*, which I do currently 100% of the time with RAW files (time intensive). For serious stuff, it will always be RAW for me.
Chris,
The 5D3 that arrives today has two slots. I set my CF slot to get RAW files, and the SD slot to get jpegs. Best of both worlds. I also use the Eyefi Pro X2 and send the jogs straight to my iPad.
Chris,
The 5D3 that arrives today has two slots. I set my CF slot to get RAW files, and the SD slot to get jpegs. Best of both worlds. I also use the Eyefi Pro X2 and send the jogs straight to my iPad.
That was my initial layout, too. Then I realized that since I alway upload jpegs as a proofs (and then delete them from HDD) it requires me to make two media download runs per camera.
So I reverted to using 2d card simply as an extention (1 --> 2), in case I run out of space on the 1st one (or just forget to stick it in:-)
Or, in some extremely important case, I would use 2d one as a "hot backup".
Just my 0.0002...
That was my initial layout, too. Then I realized that since I alway upload jpegs as a proofs (and then delete them from HDD) it requires me to make two media download runs per camera.
So I reverted to using 2d card simply as an extention (1 --> 2), in case I run out of space on the 1st one (or just forget to stick it in:-)
Or, in some extremely important case, I would use 2d one as a "hot backup".
Just my 0.0002...
Nikolai,
My during a lightroom import I only bring in the raw files from the CF card. The wireless download from the eyefi gives me a quick look and easy access to the jpegs on the iPad before I even get home to my computer.
If I had a standard SD, I may use it the way you are.
Chris,
The 5D3 that arrives today has two slots. I set my CF slot to get RAW files, and the SD slot to get jpegs. Best of both worlds. I also use the Eyefi Pro X2 and send the jogs straight to my iPad.
I'll have to get one of those eyefi cards. When shooting family parties, it would be great to send the files straight to my iPad (AppleTV would be better if possible), so that an instant slideshow of the event could be running for folks to view. I like that "endless memory" feature too, overwriting images that have been safely transferred when more space is needed on the 8GB card.
Chris,
The 5D3 that arrives today has two slots. I set my CF slot to get RAW files, and the SD slot to get jpegs. Best of both worlds. I also use the Eyefi Pro X2 and send the jogs straight to my iPad.
Wait, so with the EyeFi card, can you have the iPad mirroring what is on the camera's LCD in real time? Like, could I hang an iPad on the fence in front of Little League spectators, and they could see what I'm shooting, shot by shot?
Or could the iPad be receiving jpegs and adding them to a repeating slideshow in real time?
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
I was surprised to read about their distaste for the out-of-camera JPEGS (becoming muddy due to aggressive NR), particularly since we are hearing otherwise from a couple members on this board. In any case, if that turns out to be a common complaint, seems like a firmware-capable tweak.
Simple solution. Turn all the NR options off or reduce the aggressive settings. Use ACR or DPP or anything else in post. Might not be an option for wedding photogs, press and high volume shooters though.
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Wait, so with the EyeFi card, can you have the iPad mirroring what is on the camera's LCD in real time? Like, could I hang an iPad on the fence in front of Little League spectators, and they could see what I'm shooting, shot by shot?
Or could the iPad be receiving jpegs and adding them to a repeating slideshow in real time?
Not real time LCD, but it sends the pictures taken from camera direct to iPad
Yes, I have used it like your first example. I haven't looking into a live updating slide show, and off the top of my head I don't think that works.
Now keep in mind that real time is relative and the loads from the eyefi card will vary in speed with how big a file you send to it. I would consider it near real time and i send small jpgs to that card. I started off using mediums jogs and those took too long.
I'll see if I can make a video of the process to show you the lag, but I have done what you are looking for at a lacrosse game. Keep in mind that distance from iPad will be a factor as well, but overall it is $80 (amazon) well spent.
Wait, so with the EyeFi card, can you have the iPad mirroring what is on the camera's LCD in real time? Like, could I hang an iPad on the fence in front of Little League spectators, and they could see what I'm shooting, shot by shot?
Or could the iPad be receiving jpegs and adding them to a repeating slideshow in real time?
True, but for informal candids during parties around the house, family stuff, etc, I like the idea of instantly getting beautiful JPEGS (with nice pop, clarity, contrast, etc) to share instead of feeling like I need to process *everything*, which I do currently 100% of the time with RAW files (time intensive). For serious stuff, it will always be RAW for me.
Oh, yeah, totally. I just meant professionally or for artwork. Even since the MKII though its been rough with JPEG. I was hoping they'd get it right this time. Hopefully future firmware will do that for us.
Just wanted to pass along this interesting "This Week in Photography" podcast interview w/Chuck Westfall of Canon, discussing Canon's dSLR range (focused heavily on the 5D3), an AF lesson, the low light sensitivity vs megapixel race, etc. http://www.thisweekinphoto.com/2012/twip-256-canon-asmp/
Comments
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I realize I may be "paranoid" about it.... 25600 looks very clean and I totally understand what you said about expecting noise at that high ISO. Hopefully, other 5DMIII owners have the same "problem".
Thanks for your comment. I wanted to see the noise levels from 12800 and up, shooting in M mode 1/200 f/8, manual focus, lens cap on
I wouldn't worry. It's not even the official top LCD light leak issue... When you shoot with the lens cap on at ISO 100K, even the stray light from the VF can cause any number of light pollution effects...
Now, stop measurebating and go take some solar eclipse pictures!
Until you shoot the shot in a dark closet with the LCD illumination turned off, we'll never know. But it could be thermal blooming, that was a common issue back in the day. Although with the battery in the lower right of the camera and that blooming coming from the upper left of the sensor, (remember the image is recorded upside down and backwards) ...I don't think that is the likely culprit.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I feel much better now.... thanks for your input.
Nothing serious, just a couple shots from a 1st-grade practice. But this was a big test for me as both my kids play and I enjoy shooting Soccer very much. Fall is the real season, with nice uniforms and real games. AF and IQ is better than my old 7D. All due respect to the excellent 7D, but even at 50% view, which I consider realistic, 5D3 images just pop and sparkle more, and the keeper rate seems higher. Slower FPS didn't bother me as I try to time my shots anyway and I only sometimes do a 2 or 3 shot burst to pick the winner. I dig the thinner DOF of full frame for Soccer. The trade-off is having to be patient for the action to come closer due to the significant decrease in reach. But I am definitely going to try to see if I can work within this limitation to enjoy the DOF and speed of FF f/2.8, and the AF of a bare lens, rather than settling for a 1.4x TC.
Nothing special but I think it shows the DOF well. And this was only 165mm:
Obligatory 100% crop:
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Do you really need to wait for the action to come closer due to the crop-sensor vs full-frame affect on lens reach...can't you achieve basically the same results with a crop in post-production?
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
Josh - so after a couple of months with your 5Dm3, what glass do you find yourself reaching for most often? My style of travel/adventure photography is similar to yours (although you are better
here's where i'm at so far, and changing my mind daily:
(a) 16-35 or 17-40 or go prime with Canon or Zeiss (although I can't imagine not having AF)
(b) 24-70 f2.8 or wait for 24-70 II, or go with equivalent Tamron, or go prime.
My primary usage is relatively low-light events/parties, travel imagery in diverse locations (including landscapes), environmental portraits, and the like.
I'm willing to spend another $3k or so on two new lenses to supplement my 70-200 f4, 24-105 f4, and 50 1.2
Thanks!
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
Yes you can, but you'll end up with "only" 8.6mp if you apply a 1.6 crop factor yourself in post. That's certainly acceptable but I find it easier to see the right moment with my subject filling more of my viewfinder.
Like I said, I don't think I'll need a TC, but we'll see.
As for your wide-angle question, I love my 17-40L. DPP/DLO fixes its faults, imo.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
By far my most used and favorite piece of glass is the 50 1.2. My wide angle in the 16-35 2.8 II and when used with good technique this yields great results. Telephoto duties go to the 85 1.2 II or 70-200 2.8 II.
Here's my suggestion: Sell the 70-200 f4 and 24-105 f4. Buy 16-35 2.8 II and 70-200 2.8 II. Check out the 17mm or 24mm tilt shifts. Those are next on my list.
The 24-70 is just far too convenient!
Most everything is OOC jpeg, which is my newly preferred workflow(or lack thereof
I was surprised to read about their distaste for the out-of-camera JPEGS (becoming muddy due to aggressive NR), particularly since we are hearing otherwise from a couple members on this board. In any case, if that turns out to be a common complaint, seems like a firmware-capable tweak.
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
Thanks Josh! Good stuff. Nice to hear you like the 50 1.2 so much. I bought that lens for my 50D just a couple of weeks ago, but only used it once so far. My 5dm3 arrives today.
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
I very much agree. JPEG shooting is very painful for me if file size isn't my concern. Which, really, it never has been. Memory is relatively cheap - even the expensive stuff! Even with NR off, its not what RAW can get at all in terms of micro detail and sharpness.
True, but for informal candids during parties around the house, family stuff, etc, I like the idea of instantly getting beautiful JPEGS (with nice pop, clarity, contrast, etc) to share instead of feeling like I need to process *everything*, which I do currently 100% of the time with RAW files (time intensive). For serious stuff, it will always be RAW for me.
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
The 5D3 that arrives today has two slots. I set my CF slot to get RAW files, and the SD slot to get jpegs. Best of both worlds. I also use the Eyefi Pro X2 and send the jogs straight to my iPad.
Pete
That was my initial layout, too. Then I realized that since I alway upload jpegs as a proofs (and then delete them from HDD) it requires me to make two media download runs per camera.
So I reverted to using 2d card simply as an extention (1 --> 2), in case I run out of space on the 1st one (or just forget to stick it in:-)
Or, in some extremely important case, I would use 2d one as a "hot backup".
Just my 0.0002...
Nikolai,
My during a lightroom import I only bring in the raw files from the CF card. The wireless download from the eyefi gives me a quick look and easy access to the jpegs on the iPad before I even get home to my computer.
If I had a standard SD, I may use it the way you are.
Pete
I'll have to get one of those eyefi cards. When shooting family parties, it would be great to send the files straight to my iPad (AppleTV would be better if possible), so that an instant slideshow of the event could be running for folks to view. I like that "endless memory" feature too, overwriting images that have been safely transferred when more space is needed on the 8GB card.
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
Pete
Wait, so with the EyeFi card, can you have the iPad mirroring what is on the camera's LCD in real time? Like, could I hang an iPad on the fence in front of Little League spectators, and they could see what I'm shooting, shot by shot?
Or could the iPad be receiving jpegs and adding them to a repeating slideshow in real time?
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Simple solution. Turn all the NR options off or reduce the aggressive settings. Use ACR or DPP or anything else in post. Might not be an option for wedding photogs, press and high volume shooters though.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Not real time LCD, but it sends the pictures taken from camera direct to iPad
Yes, I have used it like your first example. I haven't looking into a live updating slide show, and off the top of my head I don't think that works.
Now keep in mind that real time is relative and the loads from the eyefi card will vary in speed with how big a file you send to it. I would consider it near real time and i send small jpgs to that card. I started off using mediums jogs and those took too long.
I'll see if I can make a video of the process to show you the lag, but I have done what you are looking for at a lacrosse game. Keep in mind that distance from iPad will be a factor as well, but overall it is $80 (amazon) well spent.
Pete
DEMO here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOSj4hxYBNM
Also, some folks are claiming that this iPad app Shuttersnitch works better than the eye-fi app:
http://www.shuttersnitch.com/
and hanging an iPad on a baseball field fence is a bit perilous - with kids, and dust, and balls flying around and whatnot
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)
Oh, yeah, totally. I just meant professionally or for artwork. Even since the MKII though its been rough with JPEG. I was hoping they'd get it right this time. Hopefully future firmware will do that for us.
http://www.thisweekinphoto.com/2012/twip-256-canon-asmp/
http://www.facebook.com/cdgImagery (concert photography)
http://www.cdgimagery.com (concert photography)
http://chrisdg.smugmug.com (everything else)