Focusing problems at basketball games
timberrattle
Registered Users Posts: 40 Big grins
Help! My camera is a Canon D7 and lens is Canon 24-70 / 2.8. I'm shooting 1/500 with aperture 2.8 and ISO 1600. (set manually)
Shots actually look pretty good but I can't seem to get the camera to focus on the subject that I want it to.
AF mode is Al Servo. After that I'm confused. Manual talks about AF area Selection Modes.... Single-point, Zone AF, Auto select 19-point. Also talks about AF point-expansion.
Any ideal what would works best to get the camera to lock on and focus on the player in the center of my shots?
Shots actually look pretty good but I can't seem to get the camera to focus on the subject that I want it to.
AF mode is Al Servo. After that I'm confused. Manual talks about AF area Selection Modes.... Single-point, Zone AF, Auto select 19-point. Also talks about AF point-expansion.
Any ideal what would works best to get the camera to lock on and focus on the player in the center of my shots?
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CBS Sports MaxPreps Shooter
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In AI Servo, the camera AF will track whatever subject was under the selected AF point as long as you keep the shutter button half-pressed (assuming you are in a relatively default config here...) and you keep the AF point on your subject. This likely will take a little practice before you'll get good at keeping the AF point on target consistently.
When you are ready to take the shot, press the shutter button all the way down. If you let off the shutter button, then it will select a new target (whatever is under the AF point) when you start pressing it again.
With AI Servo, ideally you are tracking the subject/player a bit before the shot. Much better than just pressing the button at the moment you want the shot.
Jay
Jay: That sounds good and I'll give it a try. I just got my new lens....Canon 70-200 2.8. I'll see what I can do.
I would suggest re-reading the manual again so you get a better understanding of AF and how your camera works.
http://www.sportsshooter.com/members.html?id=10140
http://pjfphoto.wordpress.com/
One problem is, nobody is at the center of that shot. The floor is, however.
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It looks like the ref is in focus.
Good catch. And the ref is at about the very same distance as the part of the floor that is dead center in the shot. This is almost certainly operator error, not putting the subject on the focus point. This is what is hard about sports shooting, is giving the camera the correct thing to focus on. You have to be very deliberate about these things. There is so much to pay attention to in a very short period of time and its all moving very fast. You need to pay VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to your subject and where it is in relation to your focus points. And you need to pay attention to the very edges of your viewfinder, to know if you are cropping off heads, or feet, or flailing arms. And to know if something distracting entered the edge of a frame. And then to wait for the peak of motion. This isn't easy to pull off well.
A former sports shooter
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Basically, you just need to practice tracking and keeping the AF point on the subject. It's usually good to lock on the subject for a brief period before taking the shot, though most modern AF systems will lock the focus pretty fast. You'll also need to be able to tell when the focus tracking has lost the subject and you need to reset. For fast sports, this just takes time and practice. (My favorite exercise is shooting birds in flight using a single AF point.)
One problem that can occur in poor light is the inability of the camera to find enough contrast to focus. Try to put the AF point over a contrasty area--the number on the jersey, or ideally the face--and keep it there. Monochromatic uniforms, especially if they are dark, present a very poor image for the camera to focus on.
The good news is that there is nothing wrong with your camera!
I've not found zone selection on any camera (including my X) to be better than single AF point mode. I've heard that using the face recognition feature and zone AF on the X works really well for subjects (=people) moving towards the camera, but I have not tried this. (One of the AP shooters I frequently sit next to really likes this feature.)
Basically, I've found that zone AF yields fewer totally blown shots, but also fewer perfectly focused shots.
What's your experience?
And I hear you on the 5D2, though that one center point seems to work quite well. Until I got my X, I sometimes preferred my 5D2 over my Mark IV for really low light shooting.
With Zone I'm getting a hell of a lot better success rate than I was with a single point + 4 surrounding (the one that looks like a plus sign) I haven't thought about the facial recognition, I keep forgetting the X has it and need to look into that.. I'll try it later this week and see if I get any better results. My success rates are pretty good in zone mode now, I'm getting at least 95% in focus when I want them, the ones I really miss are say a pass under the basket when I'm focused on someone out near the 3pt line, gets close to focusing in time but not quite fast enough. Could be operator error yet as well.
I have been reading that lack of contrast when trying to shot a moving target can be a problem. Several of my shots the ref was in perfect focus. Lots of contrast in his uniform. My camera doesn't seem to want to lock on to the white and orange uniforms. Maybe part of my problem?
Here's from my manual on Zone AF:
"The 19 points are divided into five zones for focusing . All the AF points in the selected zone are used for the automatic selection of the AF point. It makes achieving focus easier than with single-point AF or AF point expansion and it is effective for moving subjects. However, since it is inclined to focus the nearest subject, focusing a specific target is harder than with single-point AF or AF expansion.
Thoughts.....
Facial and color recognition......I didn't even know I had that choice. Back to the manual to see what I can discover.
You don't have that on your 7D. That's new/unique to the 1DX currently.
Don't worry, I didn't even know I had it on my 1Dx. . I'm sure the new 7DII would probably have it, I would hope when it comes out eventually.
I think that is going to be my replacement for my 5DII, to have a 1Dx for FF and 7DII for cropped sports. Now if they would only add voice annotation to something other than a 1D line body I'd be in heaven.
Being mainly a sports shooter I have always strived to get that “sharp as a tack” action shot. I use about the same gear as you (Canon 7D and a 70-200mm f2.8 IS) but I also do a few things differently. Most of my basketball shots are done in small high school gyms with maybe 4 – 6 feet of room under the basket to shoot so I use a 50mm f1.4 prime . . . so I don’t have to worry about messing with the zoom while tracking the action.
I do use single point focus in AI Servo too. But there are a couple of extra little tricks I use to get the sharpness I am looking for. If you go to your camera manual, starting on page 64, it tells you how to set either the standard style or a custom style bumping up or retarding any combination of Sharpness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Color Tone. I have my Sharpness set at +6.
Another trick is to calibrate each lens to your camera. Seeing as I operate on a budget, sending the camera and my main 3 lenses into Canon for calibration wasn’t an option so I searched the “net” until I came across a “field expedient” way to accomplish the same thing. If you have an afternoon to mess with the settings, here is the link - http://www.prophotohome.com/lens-calibrating-a-dslr-is-easy-and-fun-dont-be-a-chicken-just-do-it-peter-gregg/ Go to page 211 of your manual to get to the calibration settings.
I hope this helps you out some.
The problem with zone AF in my experience is that it will lock on to the best contrast in the zone. You're right that the ref's jersey is very high contrast. Where I really see this happen is shooting a goalkeeper in soccer: the AF LOVES to lock on to the net behind him/her, and zone AF even on my X is problematic.
I haven't calculated my hit rate using zone vs single point on my X, but my sense is that single point is still better. Of course, a lot is based on one's ability to keep that one AF point on the subject. I suspect if I were shooting an unfamiliar sport, I might get better results with zone focusing.
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I'm not familiar with calibrating a lens with the camera but I'll see what I can learn and will give that a try also. thanks!
jhefti: I'll give single point a try and see what kind of success I have. I'm definitely having a problem with the camera locking on to something other then what I'm wanting it to.
Just the "one point" and no more? Or should the entire subject be in focus? Is the amount of the player in focus going to be dependent on the aperture setting?
Regarding bumping up the sharpening in camera, remember this is just a post processing treatment of the photo that has nothing to do with focus. You can always do this step later, in whatever editing software you use.
Regarding lens calibration, this is not often necessary. Before going to all the trouble to do it, take some simple non-moving shots of a detailed subject (words in print work well) using AF to see if the focus is good. If it is, it's unlikely that lens-camera calibration will help with sports shots. Most focusing issues in sports are user errors.
I've not had as much luck with any kind of zone AF or AF expansion as I have with just using a single AF point. Any kind of zone focusing requires the camera to make decisions about where the actual subject it. Thus, the focus is usually not as tack sharp as when the AF point is spot on the subject. At least, that is my experience.
I think you are referring to the depth of field (DOF). If you are shooting with a wide aperture (say, f/2.8 or wider) and a long lens with the player fairly close to you, you'll find that it is not possible to get the entire player in focus if he/she is leaning forward while running. If you go for the biggest target and put the AF point over the jersey number, you'll often find that the face is not in focus. OTOH, if you have a lens like the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 and are zoomed out, you'll have plenty of DOF. I usually try to put the AF point on the player's face, as I always want this in focus. If the shoes are a little soft, no one but a photographer will notice.