How do you slow down your shutter finger?
No, I'm serious here.
I am not an advocate of "spray and pray" (meaning random shooting in the hope I'll get one) and do have a plan when I start, but when I get into the flow of things I get excited and tend to dramatically overshoot, which is killing me when it comes time to cull. Sure a small percentage of that is intentional - because I shoot shallow depth of field and do take some extra "safety" shots to guarantee focus - but that's only a small percentage; it is getting badly out of control
Suggestions? I'm never going to be a set the pose>hold the pose>one frame only kind of shooter, but I do need to explore a different shooting rhythm to avoid the crazy number of extra frames. Even when they do have variance of expression (which I definitely need for headshot clients), it's now going too, too far.
Thoughts? Experiences? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance from Drowning In Images
I am not an advocate of "spray and pray" (meaning random shooting in the hope I'll get one) and do have a plan when I start, but when I get into the flow of things I get excited and tend to dramatically overshoot, which is killing me when it comes time to cull. Sure a small percentage of that is intentional - because I shoot shallow depth of field and do take some extra "safety" shots to guarantee focus - but that's only a small percentage; it is getting badly out of control
Suggestions? I'm never going to be a set the pose>hold the pose>one frame only kind of shooter, but I do need to explore a different shooting rhythm to avoid the crazy number of extra frames. Even when they do have variance of expression (which I definitely need for headshot clients), it's now going too, too far.
Thoughts? Experiences? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance from Drowning In Images
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Lensmole
http://www.lensmolephotography.com/
You know, I almost wish I hadn't sold mine a couple of years ago - that's actually a very good idea!
I do sometimes try to slow my brain down to work like that, but dang once I get into it...
I've long said that my speed to react to things is both my greatest strength AND my greatest weakness, and I'm sure feeling it this week! I don't mind the EDITING time, but the culling time - aaaaaaggggh. :cry :bash Determined to get this under control.
As for advice on shooting less, take into account when you did take that "money shot" during the shoot. Think back at what you did, and you'll start to recognize when you shouldn't snap the shutter as much. If you focus on that, you'll improve.
You can also delete images in between poses, etc.
I'm telling you though..try PhotoMechanic. It will save your life. I usually take a ton of images..but that comes with the whole lifestyle vibe.
I think I shoot at "lifestyle vibe" speed for chunks of sessions - I'll get somebody in a good position and then chatter and laugh and move them tiny bits or encourage them to freestyle... and the finger pushes a WHOLE lot of frames.
Comments and constructive criticism always welcome.
www.mikejulianaphotography.com
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14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
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NIKON D700
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Too damn many! Particularly when my clients are very high energy - I'll admit that amps me up and I shoot more - it's probably about 300+ for my shorter session, and in a full 4-5hr session (with MUA, multiple looks etc etc) 800-1000. Some of those are intentional "safety" extras because of shallow depth of field, but some of it is because I get too into it and just fire away when I get excited by what I see :giggle
I'm never going to be a "shoot 100 and that's it" photographer but the workflow is definitely too slow for me to comfortably keep up with the volume I'm taking at the moment (I'll admit - it's been very busy in the last 6 weeks). Going to trial photomechanic; if I can speed up the culling that will help immensely
Alex, remind me not to ask you for assistance the next time I reach for a chocolate chip cookie ...
Some tips on more efficient shooting.
1) shoot slightly wider. How many times have you shot a frame and you threw it away because you clipped a limb or didn't like the amount of neg space? happens to me a lot until I just forced myself to frame a little wider then I might have.
2) pause and look carefully through the viewfinder before pressing button. this is the most obvious, simple and effective but hardest to do. you like the light and angle? now look closer..are there stray hairs? frumpled clothing? an off hand position? don't press the button until you are 90% in love with the shot. If you don't like the shot when you shoot it then you won't like it later.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
A little bit of both, but the more I think about it, the more it's the former - it takes me WAY too long to prepare the proofset. I know we have all joked for a while about my deep editing, but that doesn't happen until after the client has seen proofs and chooses their shots, and I actually have that down to a pretty streamlined system now - I seldom put in more than about 30 minutes per final image (sometimes quite a lot less, sometimes a little more, but only if there is a LOT that needs doing). A simple, natural-light image that only needs light retouching is 10 minutes or less per; I sometimes don't even take it out of lightroom if the client has good youthful skin.
Culling workflow:
Pass 1 - I just quickly scan the raw import as the filmstrip in LR and 1* the handful which leap out at me, and reject/delete the obvious tossers (obvious misfocus, blinks, flash misfires etc)
Pass 2 - image by image, enlarging 1:1 checking for accurate eye focus (and yes, there are times during this phase I wish I was a Nikon shooter on this score!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ). If I want it, it gets 1*. Any which don't have accurate eyes get deleted unless they are SO amazing in some other way that I want to see if I can save it, in which case I tag it Red. Those which are neither starred nor deleted stay, unrated.
Pass 3 - a repeat of 2, but looking only at the unrated shots
Pass 4 (usually the next day when I've had a chance to step away from it) - a repeat of 2, but only look at the rated shots (and deleting ones which aren't worth keeping).
I HAVE to improve my efficiency on this. Just have to.
Marcin, actors/performers want LOTS of shots to choose from - 200-500 delivered proofs is pretty much industry "norm" for a full session. I don't specify a number of shots to clients, but typically deliver ~50-65 proofs on the short session (which is only an hour), and 150-250 proofs on the full session (3-5 hrs, multiple looks). These are PROOFS, not fully edited images (processed, basic tweaks, but not deep retouching/finishing). Again, it's not editing time that's killing me - I think my efficiency there is actually getting pretty decent - but getting the proofset culled and compiled.
Thanks for the thoughts guys - appreciated. Y'all are helping me to clarify the problem so I can work on a solution
I'd really like to sit down and watch you work I think I'd learn a lot about efficiency - each one of my photos takes days of processing
But in all seriousness, feel free to shoot me a PM and I give you the ins and outs of culling quick with PhotoMechanic
Photomechanic will help in your process. I can take upwards of over 600 shots sometimes. I use PM to sort out the best pics and the so-so pics. It gets narrowed down to about 100-150. I download those to the HD.
I then use DXO to make a basic edit of the pictures in batch. Basic is horizon adjustment, crops, exposure etc. Because it is run in batch you can also select the output too. Sometimes I want just a DNG conversion, others I just want a jpg out of it, or even something websize. All the outputs can be done at the same time and into different folders.
Once the batch is done, I go back to photomechanic and look at the DNG output folder. If I want a quick web gallery made for client proofing, I just select all the photos and do a save as option with a small web formatted picture and upload. I then go back over and start selecting the strongest pictures and edit.
The beauty of PM is you can select your main editing program as the default editor so you can jump straight to your editor through PM, like it is a part of it. If you need to edit 20 pics, you select those 20, and then PM opens your edit program and your pics are there waiting to be edited.
Most the time the client pics the photos I thought were the strongest too. With this method, I can get a decently edited proof gallery of 100-160 photos up in about 2hrs from the time I start the process.
Instead of changing how you shoot, maybe you should look into changing your workflow. Do batch process on a bunch of the photos, and then narrow it down for the extensive edits.
At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, isn't Ligtroom with it's star rating, flagging, temporary collections and colour marking a perfect tool for quick culling? And it's editing tools are pretty much unparalelled, save for Photoshop of course, but even compared to that it has many advantages...
Comments and constructive criticism always welcome.
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okay what's the trick in PM? you say you can cull 1000 frames in 10-15 min? I take 2 passes to cull. 1st pass is I cut the obvious crap photos but I also I have looked at the whole set and I now an idea of the overall quality and such (maybe 2 secs and image). 2nd pass is more critical and I look more closely at focus and such (3-5 sec an image). And there really is not much lag in the going from one image to another..maybe 1/4 second? So that put me around 2 hours.
I just don't see how PM would help much as I need the time to evaluate a shot one by one anyway?
edit: i just watched a couple of you tube video on PM. Yeah..I see it now. The shots just come up instantly and you can see more than one image at a time and "select" the one you want to keep instead of rejecting.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
I also do two passes as well, but there is no lag existent. Like Mike J mentioned, PM reads the embedded jpeg within the RAW image to bring up a thumbnail real fast. It doesn't bottleneck the computer, and it actually makes culling a painless process.
It's very easy to organize with PM too. You can tag photos you want to keep with the shortcut "T" on the keyboard, and then only view your tagged photos. From there, you can drag + drop into LR, ACR, or PS. The program is especially great for those that tend to shoot a lot in the RAW format, like myself
This. THIS.
Ok, tomorrow with luck I should have time to install the trial of PM and give it a go................
K.
Klinh Evelyn Grace Photography
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You guys need faster computers/more memory and to change your LR settings for preview so it doesn't load the image at high res.
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HOWEVER.... when I double click to go to the full-size, single image preview I just get a big blank -nothing there!
Also, everything says "expired".
Screenshot below (top = contact sheet; bottom = attempt to enlarge single image)
Point me to a manual if these are basic questions, otherwise... any ideas?
What he said...
please visit: www.babyelephants.net
Take a shot, evaluate it. Keep it or correct it and retake, then move on. I realize with a great subject you can overdo and thats ok but you must remember your time is money.
Maybe keep track of your prep time, shooting time, culling time, retouching time, presenting time and then divide that into what you charged. YOU MIGHT GET A HUGE SHOCK! Like a buck or two an hour. That will make you shoot less.
I don't think you have a culling problem as much as a shooting problem.
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You don't have to double click. If you click on the magnifying glass it will pop up full screen viewer. If that doesn't work then there is something wrong with install or a computer conflict.