basically Roberto I'm trying to do something that is'nt possible make a poor shot look good! I'ts time to trash it
I dunno, Lynn, I don't think it's a bad shot. It's not clear what you're trying to highlight, tho. It all looks kinda muddy right now. I thought you were trying to emphasize the water, but it's the grass that's brighter in this version.
I dunno, Lynn, I don't think it's a bad shot. It's not clear what you're trying to highlight, tho. It all looks kinda muddy right now. I thought you were trying to emphasize the water, but it's the grass that's brighter in this version.
Got lost in the plot Sid.. you know how that is.. I'll never get anywhere with this shot.. it's not working for me.. "gotta know when to hold'em and know when to fold'em" :puke1
Any areas on the layer that are darker than 50% gray will darken the underlying image (burning). Guess what happens if your foreground color is white (or a shade of gray lighter than 50%)??? You start to lighten the underlying image (dodging). If you dodge or burn an area and you don't like the result? Set your foreground color to 50% gray and paint over the area. The dodge/burn effect will be wiped away!
cletus
First off thanks for the tut.
I'm having trouble wrapping my small brain around this concept for one reason...
What if you have a part of an image that it greater than 50% gray and you want to burn it? Same vice versa. Less than 50% gray and want to dodge it?
I can see allot of applications for this but I can't get past this point. Thanks for your time.
If you try it, you'll see how easy it is. You don't have to worry about what's grey and what isn't. Just set your brush to black or white (white to lighten, black to darken) and set your brush opacity fairly low - say 2. Then paint away. If you hate it, just drag the layer to the trash.
But it's really easy, I use this technique all the time.
I knew, of course, that trees and plants had roots, stems, bark, branches and foliage that reached up toward the light. But I was coming to realize that the real magician was light itself.
Edward Steichen
Did a bit of messing around with this. Still need to work on brush control a bit but for some reason I could not get the brush out of the pinpoint accuracy mode.
If the Caps lock key is on, you will be stuck on the cross hairs accuracy mode with the Brush tool.
I prefer using Cletus method, on a layer, but by using soft edge Brush Tool in the Overlay Blending mode - that way I can paint right onto the image the contrast and brightness or darkness that I prefer and watch as I do it, and then finally fine tune it with the Opacity Blending slider.
If the Caps lock key is on, you will be stuck on the cross hairs accuracy mode with the Brush tool.
I prefer using Cletus method, on a layer, but by using soft edge Brush Tool in the Overlay Blending mode - that way I can paint right onto the image the contrast and brightness or darkness that I prefer and watch as I do it, and then finally fine tune it with the Opacity Blending slider.
Caps Lock! Brilliant!
I was using cletus method on a layer. It's really a much more controlled way to use dodge and burn which I'd always found to very crude tools.
cletus
First off thanks for the tut.
I'm having trouble wrapping my small brain around this concept for one reason...
What if you have a part of an image that it greater than 50% gray and you want to burn it? Same vice versa. Less than 50% gray and want to dodge it?
I can see allot of applications for this but I can't get past this point. Thanks for your time.
Setting the foreground color to black or white on the overlay layer will dodge or burn whichever part of the photo you paint over, regardless of the underlying color.
Setting the foreground color to black or white on the overlay layer will dodge or burn whichever part of the photo you paint over, regardless of the underlying color.
Correct, but the relative effectiveness is, well, relative to the underlying color.
This is very similar to paint with light technique, there is even an action that puts the layers all on for you all you do is paint at http://www.atncentral.com/
A dodge/burn question based on the technique in this thread. When I dodge/burn and set opacity at less than 100% (let's say 20%) and brush the desired area while holding the mouse button, that area is changed by the amount set (20%). If I release the button, press it again and then go over the previously worked on area, that area is further dodged/burned by 20%, giving an overall effect of 40%. My question is, is there any way that I can go over a previously done area after releasing the mouse button and pressing it again and not have the effect accumulate? My reason is that I might not have completely covered an area the first time, or I might have to move the photo on my screen to get access to a different part, and the areas where I overlap are going to have the accumulated effect.
Comments
I dunno, Lynn, I don't think it's a bad shot. It's not clear what you're trying to highlight, tho. It all looks kinda muddy right now. I thought you were trying to emphasize the water, but it's the grass that's brighter in this version.
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
cletus
First off thanks for the tut.
I'm having trouble wrapping my small brain around this concept for one reason...
What if you have a part of an image that it greater than 50% gray and you want to burn it? Same vice versa. Less than 50% gray and want to dodge it?
I can see allot of applications for this but I can't get past this point. Thanks for your time.
But it's really easy, I use this technique all the time.
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
Before:
After:
Only other changes: slight crop, noise reduction, desaturation of a couple brightly colored distracting items.
Easy to use and beneficial to most shots.
I knew, of course, that trees and plants had roots, stems, bark, branches and foliage that reached up toward the light. But I was coming to realize that the real magician was light itself.
Edward Steichen
Before
After
I'm totally digging this method.
Before
After
If the Caps lock key is on, you will be stuck on the cross hairs accuracy mode with the Brush tool.
I prefer using Cletus method, on a layer, but by using soft edge Brush Tool in the Overlay Blending mode - that way I can paint right onto the image the contrast and brightness or darkness that I prefer and watch as I do it, and then finally fine tune it with the Opacity Blending slider.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Caps Lock! Brilliant!
I was using cletus method on a layer. It's really a much more controlled way to use dodge and burn which I'd always found to very crude tools.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Setting the foreground color to black or white on the overlay layer will dodge or burn whichever part of the photo you paint over, regardless of the underlying color.
Correct, but the relative effectiveness is, well, relative to the underlying color.
Perhaps adjusting the opacity would help?
Chris