I had the wife hit a tennis ball for the dog in my direction. It's hard to tell from these shots, but he's moving pretty fast. Goldens can run over 40MPH.
Matt, I've tried what you said to do on the 7d mkii and I can scroll from pic to pic while it was zoomed in but all the other photos have the zoomed in view also. Did I miss something.
Yeah, you're probably viewing images that have already been captured. What I'm talking about is the initial, immediate playback / review that occurs the very first time an image is clicked. This is when scrolling form shot to shot is unavailable because the command dials are still dedicated to aperture / shutter control.
Yeah, you're probably viewing images that have already been captured. What I'm talking about is the initial, immediate playback / review that occurs the very first time an image is clicked. This is when scrolling form shot to shot is unavailable because the command dials are still dedicated to aperture / shutter control.
=Matt=
Yep, you're right about that. However I don't see what the big deal is, and there is an easy, instant solution - just press the playback button (or the Set button if you have it configured).
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
I had the wife hit a tennis ball for the dog in my direction. It's hard to tell from these shots, but he's moving pretty fast. Goldens can run over 40MPH.
Great examples. Except you 'shopped the ball into that first one, didn't you.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
KDog, I got the "dancing points" but on the page 79 items you do mean the 65 point that is at the bottom of the page, correct? Second pt how then do you set the point you want to focus on. I'm looking from the sidelines over the bodies of three linemen and want to focus on the Qback, how do I adjust the movable point if I'm on the last item on Pg 79. Don't mean to be thick headed.
Yep, you're right about that. However I don't see what the big deal is, and there is an easy, instant solution - just press the playback button (or the Set button if you have it configured).
I suppose if I were raised on Canon and had gotten used to these options from the beginning, it wouldn't be a problem, but when you have such a function ingrained in your head for 5+ years as a Nikon user, well you really miss it.
Either way, my point is, the 7D mk2 is nearly flawless, but Canon still has a couple functionality things they need to improve on...
KDog, I got the "dancing points" but on the page 79 items you do mean the 65 point that is at the bottom of the page, correct? Second pt how then do you set the point you want to focus on. I'm looking from the sidelines over the bodies of three linemen and want to focus on the Qback, how do I adjust the movable point if I'm on the last item on Pg 79. Don't mean to be thick headed.
Charles, no worries at all. I've learned so much from guys like you in this forum that it's nice to be giving back for once.
Yes, the last mode on the bottom of p 79, with the thin line drawn around the entire display. At this point you should see the center point with the box around it to show you your active focus point. Proceed to page 81 in the manual.
Basically you just press the upper right-most button which will light up all 65 points in red, with the box around the active focus point. Then push the joystick around to move it to different spots around the field. You can use the dials too, but I always use the joystick. Hint -- just press the joystick straight on to quickly zero out the active point back to the center. This is all the same as for single shot action, so maybe I'm not understanding your question.
I've got most of that. I didn't think you could do what you suggested after setting it up without effecting what was done prior to that. Thanks for helping out.
Weird! It looks like there is a big halo of cloning around the ball.
I know, it's weird. If I had cloned it however, I would have simply selected the ball and pasted it in. It wouldn't have left a ring like that. A complete novice wouldn't even have been that sloppy. This is a JPG pretty much straight out of the camera with a bit of exposure adjustment.
I have a friend who tells me he thinks it's caused by the, "variable refraction index caused by the different air density gradients around the ball".
Pfffft. :nah
EDIT: OK, sort of.
Just plain old fluid dynamics and eddy currents. A simple Navier–Stokes equation to figure turbulance based on your relative distance from subject, ball speed, magnification factor, air temperature vs. ball temperature, ball rotational speed at the surface, air pressure and ball surface texture (compared to its diameter) can more easily describe what is being viewed here. The convective surface flow (turbulance) is the key element here. Gravity, for this problem, might not be considered, since exactness is not necessarily desired.
Simply look up this data in your EXIF, turn them into variables, and plug them into the formula here, and then we shall know if you photoshopped the thing, or not.
EDIT 2: What about the 7DII's new Motion Blur Beauty Bokeh setting? Was it on "disable" or "active"?
:hide
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"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Just plain old fluid dynamics and eddy currents. A simple Navier–Stokes equation to figure turbulance based on your relative distance from subject, ball speed, magnification factor, air temperature vs. ball temperature, ball rotational speed at the surface, air pressure and ball surface texture (compared to its diameter) can more easily describe what is being viewed here. The convective surface flow (turbulance) is the key element here. Gravity, for this problem, might not be considered, since exactness is not necessarily desired.
Simply look up this data in your EXIF, turn them into variables, and plug them into the formula here, and then we shall know if you photoshopped the thing, or not.
EDIT 2: What about the 7DII's new Motion Blur Beauty Bokeh setting? Was it on "disable" or "active"?
Was thinking, which is unusual, can one of the buttons be dedicated to toggle between single shot and 10fps? Don't have the manual with me right now but that would be great for sports shooting.
Was thinking, which is unusual, can one of the buttons be dedicated to toggle between single shot and 10fps? Don't have the manual with me right now but that would be great for sports shooting.
That would be too slow to do but boy would it be ever helpful.
I'm confused. Single-shot is an AF mode, while 10fps is a shutter drive mode. If you're talking about switching between single-shooting drive mode and continuous (burst) shooting, I don't see why that's necessary. You can always take just one shot if you're in burst mode. If you're wanting to toggle between servo and one-shot AF, then the C1, C2, C3 profiles are definitely the way to go. It doesn't take more than a second to get to C3, just rotate the shooting mode knob full counter-clockwise and you are there. You don't even need to take your eye off the viewfinder to do it.
Can you clarify what you're trying to achieve, maybe give a scenario where it's useful?
Sorry for the confusion. Speaking about shutter release button...hit it and one shot is taken....hit an assigned button for 10fps then hit the shutter and let er rip. Focusing on the Qback and it's a pass so quickly shoot his pass and then hit an assigned button to do fps for the catch. Not enough time to turn to a custom function.
Here is a problem.....I've never shot with a camera that had two cards. When I just use an SD xc 64GB 600x 90mb/s card the images show up on the camera but when I put them in a card reader it says the card is not formatted and do I want to format it.(no images are showing) I formatted the card in camera however. Don't have this with the CF card.
edit. Might have found the problem. It happened on an older computer and reader. When I put the card in a laptop it worked fine.
Sorry for the confusion. Speaking about shutter release button...hit it and one shot is taken....hit an assigned button for 10fps then hit the shutter and let er rip. Focusing on the Qback and it's a pass so quickly shoot his pass and then hit an assigned button to do fps for the catch. Not enough time to turn to a custom function.
Can't you just leave it in 10 fps mode, hit the shutter once (and release) for the single shot of the QB, then hit shutter and hold it down for the catch? I mean, you have to hold the shutter down for it to continue shooting high speed, no?
Can't you just leave it in 10 fps mode, hit the shutter once (and release) for the single shot of the QB, then hit shutter and hold it down for the catch? I mean, you have to hold the shutter down for it to continue shooting high speed, no?
Yes, but at 10fps it's very hard not to take two shots.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
You wind up punching it for the first shot and now you've got some wobble in it. If you have to be that careful you then start throwing your timing off and trying to catch the ball at the right spot is tough enough.
I normally take 400 to 500 shots per game and I'm a tight shooter, don't believe in excess. Multiply that by at least two and you've some serious culling and managing to do. Time is money!!!
Comments
- Set AF point display during focus to "ALL (constant)".
Link to my Smugmug site
Link to my Smugmug site
This was kind of a nice video about the 7D Mkii too http://youtu.be/ThNJm14cSkk
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Yeah, you're probably viewing images that have already been captured. What I'm talking about is the initial, immediate playback / review that occurs the very first time an image is clicked. This is when scrolling form shot to shot is unavailable because the command dials are still dedicated to aperture / shutter control.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Yep, you're right about that. However I don't see what the big deal is, and there is an easy, instant solution - just press the playback button (or the Set button if you have it configured).
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Great examples. Except you 'shopped the ball into that first one, didn't you.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Link to my Smugmug site
www.cameraone.biz
I suppose if I were raised on Canon and had gotten used to these options from the beginning, it wouldn't be a problem, but when you have such a function ingrained in your head for 5+ years as a Nikon user, well you really miss it.
Either way, my point is, the 7D mk2 is nearly flawless, but Canon still has a couple functionality things they need to improve on...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Yes, the last mode on the bottom of p 79, with the thin line drawn around the entire display. At this point you should see the center point with the box around it to show you your active focus point. Proceed to page 81 in the manual.
Basically you just press the upper right-most button which will light up all 65 points in red, with the box around the active focus point. Then push the joystick around to move it to different spots around the field. You can use the dials too, but I always use the joystick. Hint -- just press the joystick straight on to quickly zero out the active point back to the center. This is all the same as for single shot action, so maybe I'm not understanding your question.
Link to my Smugmug site
www.cameraone.biz
Weird! It looks like there is a big halo of cloning around the ball.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Link to my Smugmug site
I have a friend who tells me he thinks it's caused by the, "variable refraction index caused by the different air density gradients around the ball".
Link to my Smugmug site
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Pfffft. :nah
EDIT: OK, sort of.
Just plain old fluid dynamics and eddy currents. A simple Navier–Stokes equation to figure turbulance based on your relative distance from subject, ball speed, magnification factor, air temperature vs. ball temperature, ball rotational speed at the surface, air pressure and ball surface texture (compared to its diameter) can more easily describe what is being viewed here. The convective surface flow (turbulance) is the key element here. Gravity, for this problem, might not be considered, since exactness is not necessarily desired.
Simply look up this data in your EXIF, turn them into variables, and plug them into the formula here, and then we shall know if you photoshopped the thing, or not.
EDIT 2: What about the 7DII's new Motion Blur Beauty Bokeh setting? Was it on "disable" or "active"?
:hide
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Back to point and shoot!!!!
www.cameraone.biz
www.cameraone.biz
The manual is ALWAYS with you.
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/5/0300016615/01/eos7d-mk2-im-en.pdf
or just go to canoneos.com if you lose that link.
Doesn't look like this is possible, but you could assign a custom mode on the mode dial that has 10fps activated.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
www.cameraone.biz
I'm confused. Single-shot is an AF mode, while 10fps is a shutter drive mode. If you're talking about switching between single-shooting drive mode and continuous (burst) shooting, I don't see why that's necessary. You can always take just one shot if you're in burst mode. If you're wanting to toggle between servo and one-shot AF, then the C1, C2, C3 profiles are definitely the way to go. It doesn't take more than a second to get to C3, just rotate the shooting mode knob full counter-clockwise and you are there. You don't even need to take your eye off the viewfinder to do it.
Can you clarify what you're trying to achieve, maybe give a scenario where it's useful?
Link to my Smugmug site
www.cameraone.biz
edit. Might have found the problem. It happened on an older computer and reader. When I put the card in a laptop it worked fine.
www.cameraone.biz
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
www.cameraone.biz
Can't you just leave it in 10 fps mode, hit the shutter once (and release) for the single shot of the QB, then hit shutter and hold it down for the catch? I mean, you have to hold the shutter down for it to continue shooting high speed, no?
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Yes, but at 10fps it's very hard not to take two shots.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
www.cameraone.biz
Link to my Smugmug site
www.cameraone.biz