Long Canon Glass
So, I'm gonna save up for some longer glass. Right now the longest I have is the 70-200 f4L, which I'm really happy with.
Shooting my daughter's track meet got me inspired, and I'd like to shoot more of that, maybe some cross country, maybe some soccer...and I guess I should also consider that I may want to shoot some wildlife, too, although that won't be my main focus...
So I'm looking at the 400mm f/5.6L or the 300mm f/4L IS. They're both about the same price. Comments?
Shooting my daughter's track meet got me inspired, and I'd like to shoot more of that, maybe some cross country, maybe some soccer...and I guess I should also consider that I may want to shoot some wildlife, too, although that won't be my main focus...
So I'm looking at the 400mm f/5.6L or the 300mm f/4L IS. They're both about the same price. Comments?
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Phoenix, AZ
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A former sports shooter
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Never had 300, 400 or IS on any of my lenses, so I need to suss that out, for sure. Based on my intended uses, I was hoping to get some wisdom for you all.
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Thanks for the info, and yes, that would be awesome.
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Then get a 400 if that's not enough.
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In the end you might decide the 300 is too close to your existing 70-200 to be worth the dollars. Maybe you can rent or borrow a 400?
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Mebbe.
I'm also concerned about bokeh, and backgrounds shooting these types of events, maybe even more than the speed of the lens.
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Not a bad idea...
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If we get together next Saturday, I think you can get your hands on that 100-400 IS you saw:-)
400 is just beginning to be adequate for some birds and wildlife. I have never met a birder who thought 400 was anywhere near long enough, even on 1.6 crop factor bodies..
300mm will be ok for most sporting events, but so will the 70-200. The Sigma 120-300f2.8 may be the ticket for sports.
f4 and f5.6 are ok for daylight, but faster is lots better come sunrise or sunset.
The 100-400 range is nice, but nobody really loves that lens. Lots of folks use it and get great images with it, but nobody loves it just the same. Trombone zoom, air pump, not tack sharp at 400, etc. But very useful day in and day out. Sigma makes an 80-400 also.
Everyone wants a fast, long lens for $300. I'm still looking for that lens too.
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However, for soccer meets, I found it too much lens. If I wanted to get some headshot and expressions, it was great, but usually I am looking for actions, typically full-body shots. Most of the time I am near the sidelines, about mid-field, so 200mm was perfect. If I was at one end of the field and the action at the other, 300mm was good, but 400 was rarely used. But of course, YMMV.
PF, what do you think of Sid's idea of the 2.8 with the teleconverter?
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Using the 1.4x TC with your existing 70-200 f4 may meet your needs temporarily. You'll want a 1.4 TC sooner or later anyway, so it is a relatively inexpensive way to step up to a little longer glass.
The 70-200f2.8 IS L is composed of 18 groups of glass with 13 elements - lots of reflecting and refracting surfaces. I think the image loses contrast when used with a 1.4 TC in my hands. Maybe it works better with the 70-200f4 lens 13 groups and 16 elements.
For about the same money as the 70-200 f2.8 IS L, you can buy the 135 f2 L and the 200f2.8 L - both very nice pieces of glass that couple with a 1.4 TC very sweetly. Just a thought.
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I'm looking at the Canon 1.4x converter for football season. It is approved for the Canon 70-200mm, f2.8 (especially beyond 120mm or so), and people seem to like it. For night games, the f2.8 is not too fast at the smaller venues where lighting gets pretty low. The zoom range is handy when you can't run down the field chasing the ball carrier. I have to imagine this is similar to track events as well.
The bokeh is pretty good at f2.8 and really does help seperate the subject from the background and other subjects fore and aft.
ziggy53
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I also like Pathfinders suggestion of the 135 f/2 and 200 f/2.8. But I could see where having the flexability of a zoom would be a must for sports.
I guess the best way to figure this out is start with the 1.4TC on your current lens and see if you like the reach of 280mm. That way you could see if the 300 or 400 would be to long or not. Plus a 1.4TC would be easy to sell if you don't like it. I really hate trying to make choices like this. Good Luck!
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Daniella shoots nearly exclusively with Canon 400 f/5.6L
Like this: http://www.pbase.com/zylen/image/40209680
Oh and she also will use a Tammy 1.4x on the 400 5.6 a nice combo in good light!
BTW, most of her shots are on a Rebel, or Rebel XT, proving again, it aint the camera
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the 300 f/4 ( which i sold to gluwater ) is a sweet lens that i wish i stil had. It however was not long enough for birds. The 400 f/5.6 is the lens to use - there is no discussion about that! Look if you can afford the more expensive lenses go fo orbigger but for pratical people like myself the best birding lens is the 400 f5/6. For soccer, i think your daughter is young, the 70-200 is awesome, yeah the IS f2.8 is better however.
So what to do??? sell the 70-200 f/4 and buy the 70-200 f/2.8 IS and get the 1.4 TC ... you will be happy and only have to carry one lens...
then save for the 400 mm f/5.6
Birds are low on my priority list...but that all may change....
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David, Birds are brutal on the body. I get up at 4am every saturday to get out in the middle of nowhere to shoot birds all morning. On an average day I see 4-5 species that I have seen before, on a good day I see 1-2 that I haven't or haven't gotten great shots of.
Its pretty cool that the 400/5.6 has enough light at sunrise with ISO 400 for shots. The big dollar lenses are F4 and everyone I know that has one uses at least a 1.4x on it.
Phoenix, AZ
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If it's still too short or you are happy with the 70-200+1.4x you will have had time to work out f f5.6 is fast enough. If it is get the 400/5.6 it's outstanding quality and value for a 400. It also takes a 1.4x well to give 560.
If you want longer than 300 but need IS at 400 then get the 300/4 and use it with the 1.4x you already have to get 420/5.6 with IS. Not quite as good as the 400 bare but still very good.
I'll qualify my comments by saying that they are based on my own copies of these lenses. FWIW for birding the 400 is my first choice unless the light is very low and I don't want to use a 'pod of any type. The 300/4 is in my opinion more general purpose than the 400 due to the f4, IS and close focus. Usable for butterflies and flowers even.
Cropped:
This should give you some idea of how the tc will effect sharpness, even without AF and shooting at F8.
ISO 400 1/640 by the way.
True, but even she will be the first to tell ya it ain't close enough. She has the 1.4x glued to the lens and even then has to crop all the images to about 50%. If not for the added weight of the 500mm (and cost), I think she'd move up in an instant.
I use the 400 5.6 exlcusively for birds as well. I'm nowhere in the same galaxy of talent as Daniella, but I can tell you the same thing...it ain't close enough. By for flying birds...it may be the best lens ever for shooting flying birds handheld.
Then again, the OP doesn't want to shoot birds.
I think buying the 1/4x now would be the smartest move. You can try it out on your 70-200 f/4 to see how adequate it might be for sports. The lens you have is a light lens and from what I hear, great for sports. You might want to trade up later to the 1.8 for more light. For the long lens, I would go with the 300 f/4 IS. Don't forget that the IS allows you to shoot in lower light gaining a couple of stops (so they say!). Plus the 300 is an f/4 vs. a f/5 for the 400mm. The thing you will be sacrificing is distance. I wouldn't worry about that. If you are not totally into wildlife, you will be able to get pretty awesome shots most of the time with a 300mm, especially when coupled with a 1.4x converter. I'm no expert by far, but the IS in my 24-105 really improves my shots...I sure wish I had it on all my lenses, especially the 200mm f/2 I just purchased. I have trouble keeping it steady (hand held) with an extender. Monopod time for me!!!
There isn't a lens around (you can afford) that will catch every shot!!!
Using IS on sports is a waste of battery and time (as IS takes a while to stabilize the pix after shutter release).
Once again, If your shutter is fast enough to stop motion on the lens end ... then it is fast enough to stop action on the camera. If you are shooting soccer say at 1/60 with IS ...the field will be sharp but the players will be blurred.
I shoot a lot of sports and all I had was the 70-200 F4 like yourself. I was about to buy the Sigma 120-300 2.8 ... probably the most ideal sports lens ever made for those with field access ... I even had it in my grubby fat hands ... but I don't shoot just sports .. so for about the same $$$ I purchased a 70-200L 2.8 and a Sigma 50-500 (Bigma). For daytime sports I use the Bigma, for nightime the Canon. So far so good. And the Bigma has such great range that I use it for so so much more and when the light drops ... out comes the legendary 70-200 L 2.8 ...
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the proof is in the pudding
Additionally, the 70-200 and the 50-500 are handholdable. A big plus as it opens up more photo opps.
Gary
Unsharp at any Speed
If this is the person I think it is, she's often the smallest one with the
smallest camera at the rookery. Very often, her shots are spectacular.
So as Andy says, it's not the arrow...
That said, a combination which no one has mentioned is the 300/f2.8 and
either of the 1.4 or 2.0 TC's (with 1.4 preferred). If low light is a problem,
then this combination is one way to address it.
Ian
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I have the 300/2.8 and absolutely love it. If you can afford the bucks it is a great lens. I has the added plus of, as stated, letting you use a 1.4 for a 420/4.0 lens, or a 2.0 for a 600/5.6. Very flexible.
A former sports shooter
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