Headed advice... I'll try again.. back in a bit.
This is exciting!... I'm learning! I was using the camera wrong this whole time.
HA! I got ! I got it! YEah!...ivar
Please check the forum FAQ, images are not showing :-(
larry l wrote:
First shot at f/2.8, 1/40; second shot f/22, 1.6; both shots from tripod, KM 5D, Sigma 105 mm
Hope they show up this time.
Thank you for the entries!
It looks like your second one, f/10, suffers from a hand-hold blur.
To avoid that, you need either more light, or higher ISO, or a tripod
I left the tripod at my-in-laws out of state so these were both handheld shots. My question is "is this the right concept for the technique? Was I to only adjust the apertue? I adjust apeture and my focal point..after re-reading the directions, I think I should have had a tripod...focused on one spot and then adjusted my aperture. Does that sound right?
Sorry, I couldn't resist putting a tilt to this as I haven't seen things the same since the last class....heh...nevermind
28mm f/3.5 1/1000 sec
28mm f/18 1/40 sec.
I just received my 50mm f/1.4 from BH Photo and this assignment looked like a perfect test case for it. The perfect lens for dramatic differences in DoF is wide and fast. 50mm is as wide as I go in fast lenses (on my full frame 5D it is, of course, it is wider than it would be on a 1.6 crop body), so here we go:
Shallow DoF (f/1.6)
Deep DoF (f/22)
The focus point in both images is the leaf at the far end of the near bench which is about 10 feet away. The hyperfocal distance for 50mm at f/22 is around 15 feet and as a result as you can see the trees in the far field are still somewhat out of focus in the stopped down image. When looking close up (not visible at this scale) the whole image at f/22 is somewhat soft presumably due to diffraction.
I learned a few other things about my Canon 50mm f/1.4 while studying these shots. The lens is very soft at f/1.4 but sharpens up quite quickly as you stop down and is very crisp by f/2.0. The lens also vignettes significanly when wide open. I corrected both these images with DxO Optics which cleans up the vignetting quite nicely. DxO Optics also signficantly improves the sharpness at f/1.6 and f/1.8 but still leaves the images lacking somewhat for contrast (most noticably at f/1.6). In practice I will try to avoid using the 50mm at apetures wider than f/2.0 and consider opening to f/1.4 only as a desparation measure.
I happened to find a shot I liked that was just a plain old bench, so I thought I'd post it up. :
Sorry I couldn't go up to f/22...it was raining and I was w/o tripod. I thought f/8 still did a good job of distinguishing the DOF though.
35mm f/2 (focal point should be obvious :)
Thank you for the entry! Nice rose!
Now, do you think you can speed it up?
Congrats on a (great!) new lens and a nice entry!
It's awesome that you get to know your new toy and realize its cons and pros for yourself (and the rest of us). :
I also think the difference between the shots would be more dramatic is you had got closer to the bench and focused on its nearer end rather than farther one, don't you agree?
yes my apologies...I run several sites myself on top of the 9-5 programming I do...sometimes I can't get to these threads w/ the quickness I once had.
Thanks. I was quite happy to see my results with the 50 match the review I read of the lens before I bought it.
However, my point is: in this particular class we want to change the aperture, not the focal distance.
More catch up, shot this while shooting LPS#2
Camera: Olympus Evolt E500
Lens: Olympus 50mm f/2.0 Telephoto Macro ED Lens
F2.0 1/640 sec (god I love this fast lense, it' not always useful but man it's nice when you need it)
F22 1/5 sec
Nice DOF work!
Just in case you're looking for a bw treatment for the LPS... I think this image could benefit from a more agressive b/w, since the current one looks a bit flat (to me, that is). HTH
I'm always looking for more aggressive treatments, so feel free to expound on that =c) In fact there is a picture of somebody's dirty hand that I sometimes see in the ehader, that I would love to find out the way the PP was done.
That was Shakey, winner of the "Dirty" challenge.
You know you can click on those header thumbs and explore the whole gallery, don't you? :-)
Well now I know. Any insight on how he achieved that look?