Well, it isn't exactly a bench. And I didn't exactly follow the rules and take two shots. But I went out to shoot this assignment and had a ton of fun shooting with my 50mm at f/1.4 as close as I could get to things. So this assignment resulted in (among other things) ... DOF Dog:
[Sorry, guys if this is just too off topic. It really wouldn't have happened without Nik's assignment.]
DOF Bench
Larry beat me to the punch yesterday...I thought about shooting my Black & Decker Workmate on the way home from work yesterday. I go to the computer and open Dgrin and Larry posted his workbench..good idea Larry>
Here is my B & D Workmate...I hope I did this right I am just learning how to use this DSLR.
B.h.j,
Thank you for the entries!
It looks like your second one, f/10, suffers from a hand-hold blur.
To avoid that, you need either more light, or higher ISO, or a tripod
Yep..
I left the tripod at my-in-laws out of state so these were both handheld shots. My question is "is this the right concept for the technique? Was I to only adjust the apertue? I adjust apeture and my focal point..after re-reading the directions, I think I should have had a tripod...focused on one spot and then adjusted my aperture. Does that sound right?
Thank you for the entries!
It looks like your second one, f/10, suffers from a hand-hold blur.
To avoid that, you need either more light, or higher ISO, or a tripod
I left the tripod at my-in-laws out of state so these were both handheld shots. My question is "is this the right concept for the technique? Was I to only adjust the apertue? I adjust apeture and my focal point..after re-reading the directions, I think I should have had a tripod...focused on one spot and then adjusted my aperture. Does that sound right?
What you could have done also to avoid blur is to crank ISO a bit. Since ISO/shutter speed do not affect the DOF *at all*, it's OK to adjust them. You'll get maybe a slightly noisier shot, but not by far.
Other than that, yes, your techniques was precisely what was required - focus the camera to the same point and take two shots, one with min aperture, and another with the max one.
Sorry, I couldn't resist putting a tilt to this as I haven't seen things the same since the last class....heh...nevermind
28mm f/3.5 1/1000 sec
28mm f/18 1/40 sec.
I just received my 50mm f/1.4 from BH Photo and this assignment looked like a perfect test case for it. The perfect lens for dramatic differences in DoF is wide and fast. 50mm is as wide as I go in fast lenses (on my full frame 5D it is, of course, it is wider than it would be on a 1.6 crop body), so here we go:
Shallow DoF (f/1.6)
Deep DoF (f/22)
The focus point in both images is the leaf at the far end of the near bench which is about 10 feet away. The hyperfocal distance for 50mm at f/22 is around 15 feet and as a result as you can see the trees in the far field are still somewhat out of focus in the stopped down image. When looking close up (not visible at this scale) the whole image at f/22 is somewhat soft presumably due to diffraction.
I learned a few other things about my Canon 50mm f/1.4 while studying these shots. The lens is very soft at f/1.4 but sharpens up quite quickly as you stop down and is very crisp by f/2.0. The lens also vignettes significanly when wide open. I corrected both these images with DxO Optics which cleans up the vignetting quite nicely. DxO Optics also signficantly improves the sharpness at f/1.6 and f/1.8 but still leaves the images lacking somewhat for contrast (most noticably at f/1.6). In practice I will try to avoid using the 50mm at apetures wider than f/2.0 and consider opening to f/1.4 only as a desparation measure.
I just received my 50mm f/1.4 from BH Photo and this assignment looked like a perfect test case for it. The perfect lens for dramatic differences in DoF is wide and fast. 50mm is as wide as I go in fast lenses (on my full frame 5D it is, of course, it is wider than it would be on a 1.6 crop body), so here we go:
Shallow DoF (f/1.6)
Deep DoF (f/22)
The focus point in both images is the leaf at the far end of the near bench which is about 10 feet away. The hyperfocal distance for 50mm at f/22 is around 15 feet and as a result as you can see the trees in the far field are still somewhat out of focus in the stopped down image. When looking close up (not visible at this scale) the whole image at f/22 is somewhat soft presumably due to diffraction.
I learned a few other things about my Canon 50mm f/1.4 while studying these shots. The lens is very soft at f/1.4 but sharpens up quite quickly as you stop down and is very crisp by f/2.0. The lens also vignettes significanly when wide open. I corrected both these images with DxO Optics which cleans up the vignetting quite nicely. DxO Optics also signficantly improves the sharpness at f/1.6 and f/1.8 but still leaves the images lacking somewhat for contrast (most noticably at f/1.6). In practice I will try to avoid using the 50mm at apetures wider than f/2.0 and consider opening to f/1.4 only as a desparation measure.
(I like your initials, matches my place:-)
Congrats on a (great!) new lens and a nice entry!
It's awesome that you get to know your new toy and realize its cons and pros for yourself (and the rest of us). :
I also think the difference between the shots would be more dramatic is you had got closer to the bench and focused on its nearer end rather than farther one, don't you agree?
I also think the difference between the shots would be more dramatic is you had got closer to the bench and focused on its nearer end rather than farther one, don't you agree?
I gave that a shot and it is definitely an improvement over the orginal shots. However, I did have to slightly cheat on the rules and push the focus point out bit at f/22 to sharpen up the background. Both of these shots are manually focused.
f/1.8
f/22
I then spent some time playing with other approaches to the scene. This pair were shot at 200mm and do a better job of capturing the essence of what drew me to those benches in the first place. Getting this much DoF with a 200mm proved challenging. The 200mm stops down to f/32 which helped but I still ended up taking a series at slightly different focus distances and picking the best compromise.
F2.0 1/640 sec (god I love this fast lense, it' not always useful but man it's nice when you need it)
F22 1/5 sec
Nice DOF work!
Just in case you're looking for a bw treatment for the LPS... I think this image could benefit from a more agressive b/w, since the current one looks a bit flat (to me, that is). HTH
Just in case you're looking for a bw treatment for the LPS... I think this image could benefit from a more agressive b/w, since the current one looks a bit flat (to me, that is). HTH
I'm always looking for more aggressive treatments, so feel free to expound on that =c) In fact there is a picture of somebody's dirty hand that I sometimes see in the ehader, that I would love to find out the way the PP was done.
I'm always looking for more aggressive treatments, so feel free to expound on that =c) In fact there is a picture of somebody's dirty hand that I sometimes see in the ehader, that I would love to find out the way the PP was done.
Well now I know. Any insight on how he achieved that look?
Why don't you just ask him?
If I remember correctly, we were all high on Draganizer at the time, so it's very likely he used that action. Google for it or search dgrin or dpreview.
Comments
No, no, not back - forward. You need to be closer to the bench. Like 3 ft top, maybe less.
No worries, you're not alone. We're all learning, in one way or another...
Good luck!
Thanx for the help! Really! This site is great! Can't wait to try something else... *looks up old assignments*
Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..
My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com
Now you got it!
[Sorry, guys if this is just too off topic. It really wouldn't have happened without Nik's assignment.]
Please check the forum FAQ, images are not showing :-(
I can't get the links to show so I took it down for now. I'll mess with it tonight after work.
LL
First shot at f/2.8, 1/40; second shot f/22, 1.6; both shots from tripod, KM 5D, Sigma 105 mm
Hope they show up this time.
And cool DOF!
Yes, they do show..:-)
Larry beat me to the punch yesterday...I thought about shooting my Black & Decker Workmate on the way home from work yesterday. I go to the computer and open Dgrin and Larry posted his workbench..good idea Larry>
Here is my B & D Workmate...I hope I did this right I am just learning how to use this DSLR.
F/10, ISO 100, Focal length 43mm, Av
welcome C & C
Thank you for the entries!
It looks like your second one, f/10, suffers from a hand-hold blur.
To avoid that, you need either more light, or higher ISO, or a tripod
I left the tripod at my-in-laws out of state so these were both handheld shots. My question is "is this the right concept for the technique? Was I to only adjust the apertue? I adjust apeture and my focal point..after re-reading the directions, I think I should have had a tripod...focused on one spot and then adjusted my aperture. Does that sound right?
What you could have done also to avoid blur is to crank ISO a bit. Since ISO/shutter speed do not affect the DOF *at all*, it's OK to adjust them. You'll get maybe a slightly noisier shot, but not by far.
Other than that, yes, your techniques was precisely what was required - focus the camera to the same point and take two shots, one with min aperture, and another with the max one.
Hope to see more from you, if you have time:-)
Sorry, I couldn't resist putting a tilt to this as I haven't seen things the same since the last class....heh...nevermind
28mm f/3.5 1/1000 sec
28mm f/18 1/40 sec.
NAPP Member | Canon Shooter
Weddings/Portraits and anything else that catches my eye.
www.daveswartz.com
Model Mayhem site http://www.modelmayhem.com/686552
Thanks!
Shallow DoF (f/1.6)
Deep DoF (f/22)
The focus point in both images is the leaf at the far end of the near bench which is about 10 feet away. The hyperfocal distance for 50mm at f/22 is around 15 feet and as a result as you can see the trees in the far field are still somewhat out of focus in the stopped down image. When looking close up (not visible at this scale) the whole image at f/22 is somewhat soft presumably due to diffraction.
I learned a few other things about my Canon 50mm f/1.4 while studying these shots. The lens is very soft at f/1.4 but sharpens up quite quickly as you stop down and is very crisp by f/2.0. The lens also vignettes significanly when wide open. I corrected both these images with DxO Optics which cleans up the vignetting quite nicely. DxO Optics also signficantly improves the sharpness at f/1.6 and f/1.8 but still leaves the images lacking somewhat for contrast (most noticably at f/1.6). In practice I will try to avoid using the 50mm at apetures wider than f/2.0 and consider opening to f/1.4 only as a desparation measure.
(I like your initials, matches my place:-)
Congrats on a (great!) new lens and a nice entry!
It's awesome that you get to know your new toy and realize its cons and pros for yourself (and the rest of us).
I also think the difference between the shots would be more dramatic is you had got closer to the bench and focused on its nearer end rather than farther one, don't you agree?
Cheers!
Sorry I couldn't go up to f/22...it was raining and I was w/o tripod.
35mm f/2 (focal point should be obvious
35mm f/8
Photog: www.Exifocus.com
Work: www.WorkSafeBoredom.com
"The worst photographer is the one who never takes a picture."
Thank you for the entry! Nice rose!
Now, do you think you can speed it up?
yes my apologies...I run several sites myself on top of the 9-5 programming I do...sometimes I can't get to these threads w/ the quickness I once had.
Photog: www.Exifocus.com
Work: www.WorkSafeBoredom.com
"The worst photographer is the one who never takes a picture."
I gave that a shot and it is definitely an improvement over the orginal shots. However, I did have to slightly cheat on the rules and push the focus point out bit at f/22 to sharpen up the background. Both of these shots are manually focused.
f/1.8
f/22
I then spent some time playing with other approaches to the scene. This pair were shot at 200mm and do a better job of capturing the essence of what drew me to those benches in the first place. Getting this much DoF with a 200mm proved challenging. The 200mm stops down to f/32 which helped but I still ended up taking a series at slightly different focus distances and picking the best compromise.
f/2.8
f/32
He is not saying that you are slow...
He is directing you towards the new assignment...on Shutter Speed...
Great job on the assignment!
Camera: Olympus Evolt E500
Lens: Olympus 50mm f/2.0 Telephoto Macro ED Lens
F2.0 1/640 sec (god I love this fast lense, it' not always useful but man it's nice when you need it)
F22 1/5 sec
pyroPrints.com/5819572 The Photo Section
i didn't exactly understand either until i read this post right here. i'll go hunt down a bench...
Nice DOF work!
Just in case you're looking for a bw treatment for the LPS... I think this image could benefit from a more agressive b/w, since the current one looks a bit flat (to me, that is). HTH
I'm always looking for more aggressive treatments, so feel free to expound on that =c) In fact there is a picture of somebody's dirty hand that I sometimes see in the ehader, that I would love to find out the way the PP was done.
pyroPrints.com/5819572 The Photo Section
That was Shakey, winner of the "Dirty" challenge.
http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/167709/1/45468231/Large
You know you can click on those header thumbs and explore the whole gallery, don't you? :-)
Well now I know. Any insight on how he achieved that look?
pyroPrints.com/5819572 The Photo Section
Why don't you just ask him?
If I remember correctly, we were all high on Draganizer at the time, so it's very likely he used that action. Google for it or search dgrin or dpreview.
HTH
f/22
http://spbdesigns.com
http://gallery.spbdesigns.com