This time the focus was locked at 2.00 m, I was using f/11 on the 16 mm and it was focused from 0,75m to infinity.
ST-E2 (again) and flash on our right
This picture has no value in aesthetical terms.
But it demonstrates what we are after: large depth of field controled by the aperture and focusing distance using a certain lens. A wide one.
In fact I was using the 350 D but the numbers are the same.
With CPF for the sky.
Just picked that off after actually reading the entire thread, on my way back to cover my tracks, and I'm busted.......
What I've done in the past is guessed, previewed, and sometimes I will get distortion I didn't have to suffer. I'm going to print that, put it in the bag for reference.
How is this one? I didn't get as precise as Antonio with the settings, but who has time to worry about settings at the Happiest Place on Earth?
1/320s, f/6.3, ISO 100, 10mm (16mm crop)
Very nice, thank you, right what the doctor ordered!
Following Antonio's excellent example I decided to redo the assignment from a more technical approach. At 17mm and f22 the hyperfocal distance for my camera is 2'-1". This gives DOF from 1'-1/2" to infinity. So tripod was set up approximately 1' from my head to the CCD sensor plane. Camera set to manual with f22 1/8sec exposure. Focus set to manual and focused at approx 2' using indicator on focus ring. On camera flash set for -1.0 compensation, off camera remote set on table to the right from the camera perspective and set for -0.7 compensation. It looks like the back side of my head is a little close and out of focus.
Following Antonio's excellent example I decided to redo the assignment from a more technical approach. At 17mm and f22 the hyperfocal distance for my camera is 2'-1". This gives DOF from 1'-1/2" to infinity. So tripod was set up approximately 1' from my head to the CCD sensor plane. Camera set to manual with f22 1/8sec exposure. Focus set to manual and focused at approx 2' using indicator on focus ring. On camera flash set for -1.0 compensation, off camera remote set on table to the right from the camera perspective and set for -0.7 compensation. It looks like the back side of my head is a little close and out of focus.
Wow, Dave, you did take it close your heart:-)
Thanks, nice entry!
Camera focused at 1.00 m - f/11 - and according to the table, focused from 0,55 to 5,76 m.
This time I used Manual mode to get the right exposure to the outside.
I went there and got the speed, mantainning the aperture.
This is an "extreme" example.
This only serves for a better understanding of the potentialities of such a procedure.
The right corner of the light is hardly in focus (it was at 0,55 m), may be also due to diffraction, ( diffraction in Dgrin one among many ) while the house outside is completely out of focus.
The tyre looks, and is actually, sharp.
I used ST-E2 with the flash on my hand and at our right.
A opened the car doors to produce the orange light. For that I shot some 25 pics !
I think this is a most useful technique in certain circunstances and very small apertures should be avoided, as always.
Camera focused at 1.00 m - f/11 - and according to the table, focused from 0,55 to 5,76 m.
This time I used Manual mode to get the right exposure to the outside.
I went there and got the speed, mantainning the aperture.
This is an "extreme" example.
This only serves for a better understanding of the potentialities of such a procedure.
The right corner of the light is hardly in focus (it was at 0,55 m), may be also due to diffraction, ( diffraction in Dgrin one among many ) while the house outside is completely out of focus.
The tyre looks, and is actually, sharp.
I used ST-E2 with the flash on my hand and at our right.
A opened the car doors to produce the orange light. For that I shot some 25 pics !
I think this is a most useful technique in certain circunstances and very small apertures should be avoided, as always.
I have re-written my previous post #29, trying to correct, not only my English, but the description of the work flow.
Will you please read it again ? Thank you.:D
Comments
This is the explanation of the picture inserted in this very thread in page 3.
Which goes like this:
I am sure Nikolai did the similar work on his pictures inserted here
That's exactly a problem - I don't any of your pics on page 3 !
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
Oh boy.
That I don't know to solve.
I am an ignorant on that (and many other things).
Anyway it is here in my site.
Thank you.
This time the focus was locked at 2.00 m, I was using f/11 on the 16 mm and it was focused from 0,75m to infinity.
ST-E2 (again) and flash on our right
This picture has no value in aesthetical terms.
But it demonstrates what we are after: large depth of field controled by the aperture and focusing distance using a certain lens. A wide one.
In fact I was using the 350 D but the numbers are the same.
With CPF for the sky.
Nice:-)
My Photos
My Facebook
http://bavasshokie.smugmug.com
I know they all intersect, but...
I was thinking more like a separate subject up front...
http://midnightblue.smugmug.com
Canon
http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html
XTi, G9, 16-35/2.8L, 100-300USM, 70-200/4L, 19-35, 580EX II, CP-E3, 500/8 ...
DSC-R1, HFL-F32X ... ; AG-DVX100B and stuff ... (I like this 10 years old signature :^)
Just picked that off after actually reading the entire thread, on my way back to cover my tracks, and I'm busted.......
What I've done in the past is guessed, previewed, and sometimes I will get distortion I didn't have to suffer. I'm going to print that, put it in the bag for reference.
http://midnightblue.smugmug.com
Canon
what intersects? its one tree, I got upclose to shot up
http://bavasshokie.smugmug.com
1/320s, f/6.3, ISO 100, 10mm (16mm crop)
Very nice, thank you, right what the doctor ordered!
My Photos
My Facebook
Thanks, nice entry!
Camera focused at 1.00 m - f/11 - and according to the table, focused from 0,55 to 5,76 m.
This time I used Manual mode to get the right exposure to the outside.
I went there and got the speed, mantainning the aperture.
This is an "extreme" example.
This only serves for a better understanding of the potentialities of such a procedure.
The right corner of the light is hardly in focus (it was at 0,55 m), may be also due to diffraction, ( diffraction in Dgrin one among many ) while the house outside is completely out of focus.
The tyre looks, and is actually, sharp.
I used ST-E2 with the flash on my hand and at our right.
A opened the car doors to produce the orange light. For that I shot some 25 pics !
I think this is a most useful technique in certain circunstances and very small apertures should be avoided, as always.
Let's stay at f/10 or f/11
Nice entry, thanks!
BTW, if I didn't know any better, I'd say it's a typical SoCal 'burbs
Will you please read it again ? Thank you.:D