Let there be light!
Did i catch your attention? 
I'm looking into setting up a basic studio at home, but i'm totally clueless as to what i need. I've looked thought tons of info and i'm getting more confused :scratch My confusion lies in the technical aspects of it, what does what.. kind of thing. Strobes, umbrellas, hot shoes, blah blah. I want is as basic as they come.
I was looking at this kit on ebay: 2 light 320 w/s strobe/flash studio kit. As far as strobes go, will this work with my Nikon D80? How can i figure it out, how strong of a light i need, or don't need? Would this kit be enough for a simple studio? Or is it too much or too little? I'm taking baby steps here, so please hang with me as i ramble on. It's probably more simple then i'm making it to be. Or is it?
If anyone can point me to some "studio light for dummies" direction, it would be simply fantastic!! The simpler it is, the better i am
I'm looking into setting up a basic studio at home, but i'm totally clueless as to what i need. I've looked thought tons of info and i'm getting more confused :scratch My confusion lies in the technical aspects of it, what does what.. kind of thing. Strobes, umbrellas, hot shoes, blah blah. I want is as basic as they come.
I was looking at this kit on ebay: 2 light 320 w/s strobe/flash studio kit. As far as strobes go, will this work with my Nikon D80? How can i figure it out, how strong of a light i need, or don't need? Would this kit be enough for a simple studio? Or is it too much or too little? I'm taking baby steps here, so please hang with me as i ramble on. It's probably more simple then i'm making it to be. Or is it?
If anyone can point me to some "studio light for dummies" direction, it would be simply fantastic!! The simpler it is, the better i am
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http://bertold.zenfolio.com
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
The first thing you'll figure out, is that it's easier than it seems to get really
good results. It really is.
http://bertold.zenfolio.com
shepsmom..good question...im in the exact same boat.
i went on vacation this weekend to Monterey and decided to get a camera.
now i'm hooked
i got a canon rebel xti...and a few lenses.
so now i want to learn how to properly use it...point and click is fine..but i'd like to do it right.
i'll also check out that link pyrtek!!! thanks a bunch!!
-G
canon rebel XTi
18-55mm lens
60mm macro lens
75-300mm telephoto lens
canon speelite 580 EXII
Here are a few basics:
Any camera with a hot shoe can trigger a studio strobe. Your D80 should have no trouble with it.
Connecting your camera to studio strobes can take a little thought. Some strobes (and cheap eBay ones are likely candidates for this) have a very high trigger voltage which can damage your camera. If you use a wired connection you should probably use a special kind of hot shoe PC adapter which protects your camera from the high voltage (they run around $50). Wireless connections are very convenient and solve the voltage issue, but they can get expensive. Pocket Wizards are the gold standard and run around $180 per strobe plus one for your camera; there are cheaper options.
The amount of power you need in a strobe depends on what kinds of modifiers you intend to use. The big umbrellas and softboxes used for full body shots soak up a lot of power. If all you plan to take are headshots, you can use smaller modifiers and you won't need as much power.
Umbrellas are cheap, quick and easy, but a good quality softbox is worth every penny you spend on it. Good softboxes are both more efficient than umbrellas and give you more even light so you win two ways: you get more useful light from a 30" softbox than a 30" umbrella and the effective light source size is larger because the better spread. I have several umbrellas, but after getting my first softbox I am addicted and I plan to get more.
While LiquidAir has much more expercience than I.
I've just gone throuhgh the process of studying what kind of lighting I needed and all the zzzzzzzzzz... that goes w/ it.
What kind of photography are you going to be primarily shooting? Product, portrait, still life, little yard gnomes? Once we know that, we can reverse engineer your lights to fit your style w/o having you waste time and money on things you don't really need.
Be as descript as you can and you'll be up and running before you know it!
A ballbark budget would also be really useful as well.
All the best.
-Jon
I was comparing "continues" light, pros and cons, and as a newbie to the studio, i figured continues light would be best option, but i'm affraid to burn someone
Appreciate all the help.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Soft boxes here are great. I'd still lean towards strobes and umbrellas just for mobilities sake. You can light a person in a neutral colored corner w/ one speedlight and umbrella Marina. Glance over this article and see how he did it. How much gear is completely driven on by Your knowledge of light and how you make it work for you. My wife manages the area branch of a national portrait studio that goes into schools and shoots the kids. I've seen her set up and break one down a full blown portrait studio. I really think you won't want to break down a studio after your done shooting an event. I'm already exhausted at the end of an event and I don't even do this as a pro. I just have fun w/ it and I love high pressure situations. (I know I'm wierd) Your 'inside' set can be dual purpose and be your outside set. You can use strobes (or you can call them speedlights) to overpower the sun pretty easily. And from what I'm hearing allot of your shots will be more pseudo indoor studio anyway. You are definately looking at strobes on a lightstand w/ a beauty dish on another stand in that price range. I personally would never trust ebay gear when going into a paid job environmnet. Not to mention voltage issues that LA touched on. This stuff can FRY your camera. Saving a few hundred bucks to only destroy a thousand dollar camera....
-Jon
$300 is not much of a budget to cover your lofty aims. Particularly since you want to be mobile, I'd consider going the Strobist route. The strobist blog will hook you up with lots of sources of cheap gear, the methods for using it, and a bunch of DIY projects to keep the budget really low. You might start here:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/05/round-up-starving-student-off-camera.html
It's not the easiest way to go, but it is cheap, portable, and expandable. If you follow that path you will learn a lot about light.
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/08/chips-glass-and-light-assembling.html
I appreciate all your advices, and of course looking forward to more ideas.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
http://mpex.com/Strobist/StrobistKits.htm
The starving student wireless kit looks like a good choice, albeit for what you want to do, you'll probably want a second flash, reciever, stand, and umbrella.
Note that any cheap solution with strobes is going to be strictly manual exposure and power settings. If you want a fully auto system, you need to go with either the Canon EX line or Nikon CLS system depending on which body you have.
I'm looking at this kit, but i'm confused about PC kit, what is it for? I have D80, I'm assuming i have no PC outlet? And what size umbrella will i need? I'm guessing for full body shots, groups, i will need at least 72", is it correct? How hard is it to do manual exposure? All i know i shoot everything manual, how is this different?
That brings me to another question... I have an external flash already, may be all i need is an umbrella, back drop and i'm ready to roll?
What did i get myself into.....
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
The PC is the for the plug connection on the camera that works with the strobe. There are cords that go between the camera and the strobe just like you putting a flash into the hotshoe but it bypasses the hotshoe with the synch cord. It's what makes the light flash when you push your shutter button.
As far as using your existing flash you might do just fine with that an a modifier - there are many to try. Start with a white index card and some tape on your flash!
One of the best ways I found out about what to buy/use (aside from the internet and a couple of expensive workshops) was to go and talk to people at the camera stores and at photographer tradeshows too. You might find that someone at the local store will be helpful. You might try buying just an umbrella and lightstand. And used stuff might be just what you need.
A GREAT DVD is available from Calumet lighting for $29.99 by Bobbie Lane on Lighting. She is an amazing teacher of portrait lighting.
For backgrounds, I have been known to use a plain old wall - even outside. A bit of low depth of field/wide open aperture and a bounced flash will do wonders.
Flash Frozen Photography, Inc.
http://flashfrozenphotography.com
I have a 60" umbrella and it is on the unweildy side. You'll need a sturdy stand for a 72" umbrella. Usually when shooting full body shots you want less light on the feet anyhow, so a 60" will serve. Depending on your flash, you may also need a small diffuser for the flash head to get a wide enough distribution to fill the umbrella. When I set up an umbrella, softbox, or diffuser, I take a picture of my modifer to see how even the distribution is. Any part of the modifier more than 2 stops below the center brighness isn't really providing a benefit.
You'll need some way to trigger that flash off camera. If it has a PC in, you are gold. Otherwise, you'll need a little hot shoe to PC adapter. There are two kinds of these: one for the flash and one for the camera so make sure you get the right one. The other thing that you will want in an external flash is manual power control (which is why the Vivitar is popular in the strobist set), but you can get started without that. One of my three flashes has only two power settings which is a hassle but I can usually work with it.
i'm in the same boat...i have no experience with photography but this past weekend, i took the plunge and purchesed a canon rebel xti and a few lenses...tripod, cf cards....
my long range goal is to be able to take decent portraits of my girlfriend and children. (and other friends, if they're down with it)
this will be hobby only and not used to supplement any income.
i'd also like to eventually take pictures of some of my completed work (i'm an architect and maybe one day i'll have a decent project to document).
but first things first...i need to learn about the camera and lighting.
my budget for lighting would be up to $1,000 or a little more.
how is this kit?
http://alienbees.com/digi.html
pros and cons of that?
and i'll have to dig into those links you've posted to get some info.
thakns to any who can help.
-G
edit...
here's my list of equipment so far
Canon Rebel XTi
18-55mm lens (came with camera)
75-300mm telephoto lens
60mm macro lens
speedlite 580 EXII
canon rebel XTi
18-55mm lens
60mm macro lens
75-300mm telephoto lens
canon speelite 580 EXII
If you can squeeze it out of your budget. Getting the: busy bee (1676.84USD) will be well worth it.
I humbly recommend that you start shooting your camera and make sure you have a true desire to contine shooting before you invest your money in a light rig though.
-Jon
On a total random note:
WHen ppl in forums start talking to you about wide angle perspective distortion due to using your lens at 18mm. Remember it's not really the lens that creates the distortion, it's the relative perspective to the object that creates the distortion. THis is a REALLY important fact to know when shooting architecture.
All the best,
-Jon
Thank you very much!
I really do look forward to getting better with my camera and just having fun with it...but at the same time...i really do want to do some "nice" portraits for friends/family/etc.
thanks again!
-G
canon rebel XTi
18-55mm lens
60mm macro lens
75-300mm telephoto lens
canon speelite 580 EXII
With a projected budget of $300, you definitely need to heed Shay's advice. Use one light and learn to use it well, before complicating matters with more stuff. Add a reflector ( or a wall) as your second light.
$300 will buy you the Strobist basic kit with the Cactus V2 wireless transmitter and receiver, 285HV, light stand, umbrella, and gel kit.
The Cactus Vs are not Pocket Wizards, but they do work ( even better if you lengthen the antenna on the transmitter ).
If you can afford more, I would suggest a Canon ST-E2 and a 580ex, as this will include ETTL ability which can be very convenient for event shooting where you are shooting candids, as opposed to set piece shots.
For the portability you are wanting, you do NOT want AC powered gear and PC connections for someone to trip over. You will want/need wireless flash triggering of some sort.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Pathfinder, your link took me somewhere else and i got lost lol. I would love to see that Strobis basic kit you mentioned. Yeah, wireless is a way to go, especially for events. That would be just perfect scenerio.
Thank you again for all the great suggestions and links
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
I can get a set with just one umbrella, which will be in my budget and add second one later one. Black vs. White umbrellas, what kind of difference is there?
Will it work with my Nikon, as they recomend FUJI with this.
Would this be too much for a beginner like me? I would love to hear what you guys think.
Here is what it comes with:
- (2) Sunpak 383 Porta-Flash Lights Recycle time = 8 sec
- (2) ALZO Flash Umbrella Mounts
- (1) ALZO Wireless Trigger kit with transmitter and receiver
- (1) ALZO Wireless receiver
- (2) Battery Chargers with 4 2700mah NiMH batteries
- (2) Sets of 4 AA 2700 NiMH Batteries
- (2) Light weight aluminum light stands - max height 6 ft
- (2) 33" Silver Textured "Black Backed" umbrellas
- (1) Padded Soft Case with 3 exterior padded pockets by Pelican
Case Dimensions =38"W X 6"D X 6"HWeight = Under 12 lbs
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
As for white vs. silver umbrellas this is what I found in my testing: White umbrellas feather better and have nicer looking catchlights. Silver umbrellas offer somewhat better control and spill less light on your background. Think of it this way: a silver umbrella is sort of like a big spot light and a white umbrella is more like a north facing window. If you like dead black backgrounds and high contrast light, silver is the better choice. Otherwise, I think white is probably more general purpose.
would it be weird to have a white and a silver?
if so...and you were doing portrait photography...(sorry so generic)..
would the silver be the main light and the white be for highlighting the dark side?
-G
canon rebel XTi
18-55mm lens
60mm macro lens
75-300mm telephoto lens
canon speelite 580 EXII
Thank you Air for the insights on umbrellas.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
As for bigger umbrellas, I have a 60", but after getting a 30"x40" softbox, the 60" umbrella has been shoved way to the back of the equiptment closet. The softbox is a superior light source in every way. Big umbrellas have a longer stems and are often very awkward to set up because they take up so much space. Because of the better light distribution, the softbox is effectively a bigger light in a much smaller package. I have a couple 42" convertable umbrellas (white/shoot-through) which are very versatile and are a staple of my lighting system. After testing the 60", I have concluded that when you start thinking bigger than 42", get a softbox instead.
http://alzodigital.com/online_store/alzo_porta_flash_softbox_studio_kit.htm
of course, it's a little more expensive. And as you said, they probably wont take a lot of space. Oh boy, all the choices!!!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
You shoot THROUGH a white umbrella so it gives you a big light source, but light spills out all over like LA said.
With a silver umbrella, you shoot INTO it. and light reflects from the inside of the umbrella back towards the subject.
Look at the shot below for a visual:
Specs:
43" dual umbrella. (you can shoot into or through it. It depends on whether you have the black cover on or off)
Something to note. I set this exposure manually and didn't have to take a second shot. It becomes second nature to exsimate exposure w/ a strobe withing one or two stops. It took me a little less than two months to get where I could do this.
(Camera set to full manual)
This is a setup shot from last Saturday, Sep. 1, in a "Wedding Canyon" in open shade at around 2:30 PM. (Nevermind the EXIF time. I keep it wrong on purpose to help differentiate between cameras for sorting images.)
ISO 100, f4, 1/250th.
2 - Flashpoint II Model 1820 Monolights, 900 Watt-Seconds each (1800 effective watt-seconds each). Shot full pop into umbrellas.
(The "model" was one of my 2 assistants. He was clowning around just a bit.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
each one of your strobes costs around 350USD. THere's NOTHING wrong w/ that or the shot. But we are trying to get G and Marina into some lighting gear and discussing how to do it on the cheap.
Got setup shot? (I'm sure you do)