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Clueless about Japan
schmoo
Registered Users Posts: 8,468 Major grins
I am going to be in Japan (specifically Tokyo and Kyoto) next month for 11 days. Although I'm usually a meticulous planner I've been too busy to even crack open a tour book to consider sites to visit. I'm not so much worried about the big attractions, but neat little areas, private neighborhoods, hidden jewels. Ideas? We plan on arriving and just winging it, but of course suggestions and experiences are welcome. :ear
Most of my knowledge of these cities comes from reading A Wild Sheep Chase and Memoirs of a Geisha. And I don't know how much I trust the latter.
Similarly, is there anything anyone can advise about behavior and decorum? Maybe I should at least learn how to say "Hello," "Thank you" and "Where do they film Ninja Warrior?" in Japanese... :rolleyes
Most of my knowledge of these cities comes from reading A Wild Sheep Chase and Memoirs of a Geisha. And I don't know how much I trust the latter.
Similarly, is there anything anyone can advise about behavior and decorum? Maybe I should at least learn how to say "Hello," "Thank you" and "Where do they film Ninja Warrior?" in Japanese... :rolleyes
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Sounds like a great trip, looking forward to the shots you bring back.
I think you've already scanned our Japan pages (http://www.heasley.net/japan/main.html), but I'll throw these ideas into the mix:
Are you purchasing a Japan Rail pass? I'm not sure what your itinerary looks like, but for us, that was the most valuable piece of our travel equipment...and you have to purchase them in the USA!
From Kyoto, we took a day trip to Nara, to see the largest wooden structure in the world, which houses the largest bronze Buddha in Japan. We also enjoyed Nijo Castle, Kinkakuji, Kiyomizu Temple, and the Kyoto train station...very modern!
We also enjoyed a side trip to Nikko and the Toshogu Shrine. The Shinkyo Sacred Bridge was all covered up and being beautified when we were there. It looked like a lovely spot for photos!
I can not wait to see the photos you bring back! I just had a point and shoot when we were there exactly 7 years ago. I hope you have a fabulous time!
Comments and constructive critique always welcome!
Elaine Heasley Photography
The reason I ask is my family and I lived in downtown Yokohama for 4 years (2000 – 2004)… anyway, Japan can be a tad overwhelming… Traffic, crowds, language, It took me 6 Months to figure out the train system… There is almost no useful information in English… although that was starting to change while I was there… The language is most frustrating because you can’t even read signs because you don’t understand the Kanji (caricature writing)… Meals in restaurants usually have pictures in the menu or plastic food displays so you can point to what you want…
In Tokyo you have lots of great stuff to photograph, temples, the palace, gardens, and shopping districts… There is one shopping district dedicated to just cameras and electronics… The Nikon corporate HQ is there also. A short train ride outside of Tokyo you have Yokohama where you can visit the Yokohama Foreign Cemetery (Gaijin Bochi) and Sankien Gardens… You could also check out Kamakura Japan (not far from Yokohama) and see the giant Buddha statue…
Here are a couple of links to some of my galleries with images of Japan…
http://www.vxphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/2409336#126303122
http://vxphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/2879245#154584146
http://www.vxphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/2405476#126065660
http://www.vxphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/2421357#126954609
I went to Kyoto once… It has some very nice old temples and castles, and the train station is an architectural marvel
If you have any specific questions or want to talk to someone in more detail about Japan, PM me and I will give you my phone number… We still have friends there so we might be able to hook you up with some contacts while you are in country.
Elaine yes I really enjoyed your travel pages! We are not planning on doing a lot of travel outside of the two cities because it's only 11 days. 4 days in Tokyo (two of which are for a wedding) and because I heard Kyoto is nice and some of the American relatives are going there, we decided to follow suit. Unfortunately I didn't realize until this week that November is "high season" in Kyoto. I couldn't find a hotel to accommodate us until last night, and I think it was the last available room in the whole city. Ouch, overpriced! But it's better than sleeping in a box.
I have thought about the 4-day rail pass but am unsure as to if it's a good deal or not. We'd only be traveling to and from Kyoto/Tokyo that week, but it might be worth it if it covers the local subway/train lines as well. So much research I need to do but the clock is ticking... Of course I could be doing that instead of posting a response here, right?
VX thanks for your input! I appreciate the personal experience of having lived there. I am Asian but not Japanese, so I actually worry that maybe this will cause even more problems because I'll look like I blend in while I really don't.
Some people are pretty relaxed about diving headfirst into foreign countries *cough*Justiceiro*cough* but I am more on the uptight side. I honestly do worry about being able to procure food and find my way around. I might take you up on the PM offer....
You have quite a nice collection of shots from Japan. I'm enjoying looking through your galleries and they do give a nice taste of how the traditional is thrown right in next to the modern.
Thank you!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
It's been over 30 years since I lived in Tokyo, so I won't be much help there. However, I visited Kyoto three years ago so I might be able to help.
If you haven't booked your flight yet, and if your schedule allows, I seriously suggest flying in and out of Kansai (Osaka) rather than Narita (Tokyo). Kansai is about an hour by train from Kyoto, and not a very busy airport. It was a breeze going thru security and passport check. Narita OTOH is one of the busiest airports in the world.
I didn't have a JR pass so I can't say whether it's a good deal or not. Be warned though that the trains operate ENTIRELY in Japanese. I don't think I saw a word of English anywhere. And Kyoto Station is HUGE. It's bigger than some airports I've been in.
As for not being able to communicate, that stresses me out more than anything, too. Will people try to talk to you in Japanese? Yes, but not because you're Asian, but because people communicate in their native language regardless of what you look like. Just the way the world works. A few words of Japanese will go a long way. A Japanese-to-English dictionary is very handy to have. An English-to-Japanese dictionary, not so much.
Once in Kyoto, the best way to get around is by bus. The stops are anounced in Japanese and English (for the popular tourist lines anyway). You should be able to get a tourist transit map and day passes from your hotel. IIRC, you board the bus thru the back door and exit out the front door.
It's pretty hard to take a bad picture in Kyoto. You definitely want to hit the big sites like Heian, Ryoan-ji, Kinkaku-ji and Kyomizu. One of the smaller places you might want to visit is Konkaikomyo-ji (I think that's what it's called) and it's hillside cemetary. It's in the north-east sector I believe. For street photo the place to go is probably Gion. A place not to be missed is the Temple at Sanjusangendo. You can try to take pictures of the statues there, but trust me, you'll give up after about five minutes. When you get there you'll see why. So why bother going? Because it's one of those has to be seen to be believed places. My Japan pics are here. And as Elaine says, a side trip to Nara is definitly worthwhile.
Finally, just as a trip to the Middle East would be more rewarding if you know a bit about Islam, your trip to Japan will be more rewarding if you know a bit about Buddhism. If you're not familiar with Buddhism, a great introduction is "Buddha" by Karen Armstrong. If I hadn't read this book before I went I wouldn't have understood a lot of the symbolism of the places I visited.
Hope that helps. Have a great trip!
www.dkoyanagi.com
www.flickr.com/photos/dkoyanagi/
Above all I am grateful that you brought up a point I knew but never thought about... the importance of Buddhism. In the back of my mind I understand that it is the basis of much of their culture but it never occurred to me to look into it in more depth to be able to appreciate it in its purest form. Even more certainly than learning a few simple phrases or studying a map, I will do this.
Unfortunately our flight is already booked and the wedding is in Tokyo, but I'm glad now that I opted to take the side trip to Kyoto. There's just too much to see and do! Thank you so much for your suggestions. They will all be printed and studied over the next 3 weeks. Little things like how to get on and off a bus are so important to me right now. I am not sure books tend to mention this kind of stuff.
Just another one for good measure. I am so grateful for all of this info I'm getting here!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
We also rode the buses in Kyoto. I had forgotten about the on-at-the-back, off-at-the-front!
The language barrier certainly was challenging at times. My husband had taken some Japanese, and the little bit he knew was a big help. I did use "sue-me-moss-en" (phonetic for "excuse me" or "I'm sorry") when trying to exit crowded elevators and such.
Even with the language issues, we met incredibly friendly people. One man on our train to Kyoto saw us looking at a guide book and asked us where we were planning to stay. We actually didn't have a hotel booked! He was so concerned for us that he walked us to an information center at the train station and proceeded to try and book us a Western-style hotel room. When there were none to be found (that weren't over-the-top expensive), he helped get us booked at a traditional ryokan within walking distance...and then walked us there!
Later in the trip, another gentleman said to us, "All Japanese speak English. We just shy! If you ask someone, 'Do you understand English?' they will say, 'I do not understand English,' IN ENGLISH!" Too funny!
One thing that surprised us was the number of people who smoke in Japan. We've become so accustomed to all of our smoke-free environments, but as soon as we stepped off the plane at Narita, we were hit with the realization that the whole world does not operate that way!
Maybe you're aware of the public toilet situation already, but I'll mention it because I was quite surprised! Not much TP to be found, so you might want to stuff some into your camera bag!
There is a lot to be seen in Kyoto. We did a walking tour that we found in a guide book, I think. It was a great way to really see parts of the city, and would be great for street photography.
OK...that's enough from me! You will have a great time; I'm sure of it!
Comments and constructive critique always welcome!
Elaine Heasley Photography
I would imagine that the JR pass would be worth it. I know that when friends have flown in to Tokyo and come down to visit me in Hiroshima, the cost of the JR pass has been covered by what they would have paid without it. A one way ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto by bullet train is 13520 yen. So compare that doubled to the cost of the JR pass and make your decision.
You have picked a damn lucky time to be hitting Kyoto. The fall colours will hopefully be in full swing. That is why it is peak season! Check out my gallery here. Most of these were taken in Kyoto.
http://giphsub.smugmug.com/gallery/3281801
One other place I would recommend is Himeji. It has one of the best remaining Japanese castles in the country. I have been there many times and can never get enough of the place. It is an easy day trip from Kyoto, and would probably make the JR pass more worthwhile. Check out my pics of it here.
http://giphsub.smugmug.com/gallery/3581405
In Kyoto, my suggestion (other than those others have already said) would be to go to Fushimi Inari Shrine. It is the shrine with over 1000 red tori (shrine entrance gates) which was in Memoirs of a Geisha (the movie) Remember her running through the gates? A very beautiful area.
You might be interested in checking out some of my other Japan pics here.
http://giphsub.smugmug.com/Japan
Anyway, you will have a great time, but don't over worry yourself about it all. My advice is to just sit back, relax, and take in the weirdness of the place as a first-timer. It is a fascinating place to see.
Oh, and about the toilet paper. People often carry small tissue packs with them for that reason. If you find yourself caught short, then pop into a conbini (convenience store) and buy a pack or two of tissues. Conbinis are everywhere! Another option is to just use the conbini toilet, because they almost always have toilet paper. Or find a shopping center or department store. They always have toilet paper too
Mike
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
As I think of tid-bits of information that might be helpful I'll post... My Wife might be better at this, as she spent way more time interacting with Japanese people in the culture... There are quite a few cultural norms that might garner you praise and admiration if you know and apply them... Knowing small things about a culture can go a long way.
I can't wait to see your pictures when you return!
Have a great time!
Winston
My fiancee is from Kyoto and recommends spending a day in the main temples (Ginkakuji, Nanzenji, etc.) and the Philospohers Path (Tetsugaku no michi) which conects them. That is a bit of a tourist trap, but beautiful nonetheless.
Make sure to go for some green tea. Not the normal brewed type, but the whisked, traditional type (prepared in front of you if you go into a little place on the side of a back street). It might cost 600 yen or so, but is worth doing.
I personally wouldn't worry too much about all the little manners and customs. People here don't care so much if non-Japanese do things the wrong way.
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
I'm obsessed with the culture and haven't been, so take my advice with a grain of salt. Listen to the people who have actually been there.
Have a great time, girly. And take lots of pictures!
It's interesting how I have been raised in an Asian household with some very traditional relatives, but still the Japanese sound much more traditional than anything I have experienced so far. I am really, truly eager to see if this is true.
Toilet paper: noted.
Rail passes: noted.
Real tea: noted.
Eye-gougingly beautiful foliage: VERY noted!! :oogle
I am hoping that I have enough CF cards, wedding notwithstanding. Be sure that I'll be flooding the forums with photos as I get them processed. You'll all be sorry that I ever found Dgrin!
(Thank you all again!!!)
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
Schmoo, Japan really is not as conservative as you might think or we are all making it sound. It is a place of huge contradictions. Very modern, but very backward at the same time! People are actually quite open and I would even say liberal. Traditional at times (and more in the countryside) but really only in the sense of certain customs/manners. Really, take all of our advice with a grain of salt. First and foremost, enjoy yourself.
One more hint. ATMs are not open 24 hours a day. There are not that many international ATMs around. BUT, the post offices all have ATMs that you can use your cash card in (one of the few that accepts CIRRUS). But they close by 5 or 6 pm. So if you are going to use cash here, then make sure to get to the ATMS early if you need it. Some are now open till 10pm or so, but again, these may not accept international cards. Japan is still very much a cash society and debit cards are not all that common.
Anyway, I think for an 11 day trip, your really don't need to worry yourself too much over the cultural manners and no-nos. If you slip up somewhere, they are more likely to laugh with you than get upset or be offended.
Mike
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
Rail passes have been... um, well I just tried to order them and found out I need to fill out an order form by hand and snail mail it. How quaint!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
How quaint!
That is a very typically Japanese way of doing anything official BTW. By hand. Very frustrating at times.
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
It'll help as you wonder around Tokyo lost and need to communicate with a policeman who does not speak any english. :giggle
-Fleetwood Mac
The Philosopher's Path or Walk of Philosophy:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3906.html
http://www.kyoto-u.ac.jp/english/euni_int/e01_camp/promenade_05.htm
This is probably better in the spring with the sakura in bloom, but it's really nice anyway. Might be a bit late for fall color. A bit off (but close to) the beaten tourist track.
Chris those walks look very beautiful. I 'm thinking November's a bad time for cherry blossoms but I'm sure the foliage will still be lovely. Thanks for the links!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
One bit of advice that I can offer is that every effort to learn language, customs and culture will be rewarded exponentially. Learn to say thank you, your welcome, good morning, all those types of normal polite phrases, and they will greatly appreciate you trying to fit in and it will make them even more willing to help you.
I used to go as far off the beaten path (away from tourists/Americans) as I could and find places to eat or drink that had nothing in english. That is where I learned so much, made some great friends and memories.
If it is still anything like I remember it, there will be MANY opportunities for photos wherever you go.
Good luck and have fun.
Thad
A thread similar to this one over on Sports shooter dot com:
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=26952
I absolutely love Japan. The food is the best in the world - not sushi - but extremely elaborate presentations of excellent quality stuff. Expensive, but well worth the trip.
Have a great time - and send us pictures every day. Photo a day from Schmoo Japan!
Z
Photo a day might be an interesting idea especialy as all the hotels have actual internet. Woo! Though I will have a lot of work to do while i'm on the road that is not all fun 'n games.
Also Thad thanks for the tips. I should start studying now. I hate going to a foreign country and not understanding even a most basic level of the language. Especially as I come back I always want to become fluent.
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I just got back from Tokya last month for my annual trip there for work. It was my third time there, so I'm starting to know my way around. I've never been to Kyoto, and never ventured outside of Tokyo 9(other than to the convention center in Chiba City, which is rubbish anyways, so we'll skip that bit)
For surviving, Cash is hard to come by for folks who get their monies from western banks. Depending on your length of stay and your spending habits, you'd do well to consider getting 20,000 Yen from an ATM machine there at the airport. It may be a number of days before you see a machine that will support your bank card. Fortunately paying by credit card at point of purchase is becoming a lot more prevalent, so you can offset some of your cash needs with this. If you run out, your hotel concierge will likely be able to point you in the right direction. The ATMs in 7-11 stores will usually work.
If you're traveling on business and need to report expenses, you'll need recipts and the Japanese aren't big on these. But you can get one if you ask for one, the word is "yoh-SHOO-Shoh" or in a pinch, if you forget, they usually understand their pronunciation for the word recipt, which sounds like "reh-SHEE-toh". In metropolitan areas, you can lean on your english pretty heavily. The japanese love foreigners and will treat you like an honored houseguest and will make every effort to understand you. I managed to buy a motorcycle helmet last year without sharing a single understood verbal word with the seller. It also stands out as one of my favorite human interactions with a stranger, ever. They are wonderful people.
As for photography while you're in Tokyo, don't miss out on the city lights phantasmagoria that is the Akihabara, Shinjuku and Shibuya districts. Shinjuku is where much of the visual impact of the film "Lost in Translation" was filmed, Akihabara is full of electronics companies and video game stores, toys and nerds.
If you plan to travel by light rail in Tokyo (The JR system) take this map, put it to jpeg and toss it on the memory card in your camera. Now you always have an english map, which is better than JR can always provide you with. Beats memorizing Kanji with no mnemonic tools to work with.
http://www.mukiryoku.com/tokyocentral.gif
Have fun!
Canon 40d | Canon 17-40 f/4L | Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 | Canon 50mm f/1.8 | Canon 70-200mm f/4 L
Unlike many other cities, there is no historic district where you can just wander around and see the good stuff. It's spread all around the city and you need to know where to look. Therefore I suggest that invest a little time to make a plan. The easiest way to do this is to get Lonely Planet's Best of Tokyo book. It's well worth the money and it's a condensed version of their regular book.
I would say the same for Kyoto, i.e., that you shouldn't just wing it or you'll miss a lot. I've only been to Kyoto one time, but I planned ahead and saw a lot in just three days. I have friends who went to Kyoto for four days with a plan to just wing it, and weren't very impressed with the city. After comparing their trip to mine, now they want to go back to Kyoto to see what they missed.
I saw some comments about ATM machines, which is an important subject. I'm not sure if this was mentioned, but not all ATMs have an English menu or accept foreign cards. I know that Citibank will work, although there are not so many Citibank locations. I believe that the ATMs in 7Eleven now have English menu option and accept foreign cards.
Regarding learning some Japanese words, there is a good section in the Lonely Planet Best of Tokyo Book. However it's really not necessary, and I would spend more time investigating what you want to see while you are here.
I have some specific tourist recommendations in Tokyo, especially if you want to take photographs. Most of these are described in the Lonely Planet book if you want more information.
1. Hachiko Crossing and Center Gai in Shibuya
2. View of Tokyo from a highrise building (e.g., from Mori Art Museum in Roppongi Tower or from Tokyo Metropolitan Building in Shinjuku)
3. People watching in Yoyogi Park (especially the Tokyo Rockabilly Club on Sundays)
4. Shinjuku Gyoen (gardens)
5. Meiji Jingu Shrine in Harajuku
6. Senso-ji Temple in Asakasa
7. Yakatori Alley in Ginza
8. Sumo Grand Tournament (if you time your visit well)
9. Tsukiji Fish Market (early morning)
10. Cosplay at Jingu-bashi in Harajuku on the weekends
11. Gompachi restaurant (interior)
Mike
Again, don't worry about not being able to find an ATM. ALL POST OFFICE ATMS WILL ACCEPT YOUR FOREIGN CARD. And they have an english menu too
http://www.michaelhelbigphotography.com
http://www.thewildpig.blogspot.com
Oh yes, I forgot about Post Office ATMs. But I believe they are only open during business hours. This could be a big issue, depending on when and where you run out of cash.