Presumably high speed sync reduces the power of the flash, since it must fire multiple times rapidly. If that is the case, in lower speed situations, you may not want the reduced flash power. Would be cool if the flash were smart in this respect.
Presumably high speed sync reduces the power of the flash, since it must fire multiple times rapidly. If that is the case, in lower speed situations, you may not want the reduced flash power. Would be cool if the flash were smart in this respect.
It is pulses of light rather than one big pulse. I still say if shooting outdoors....in daylight...there is no good reason not to keep it set on HSS.
Presumably high speed sync reduces the power of the flash, since it must fire multiple times rapidly. If that is the case, in lower speed situations, you may not want the reduced flash power. Would be cool if the flash were smart in this respect.
The Sigma EF 500 DG Super flash, and I presume the 530 version, do drop out of FP mode when you switch back below the camera sync speed, but they do not automatically go back to FP mode when you try to increase the shutter speed again. You hae to tap a button twice to get back into FP mode, which I don't find a big deal.
There are some who believe that the original Canon 580EX flash does indeed emit a single pulse at shutter speeds below flash sync, even though the flash shows "FP" mode is active. Perhaps the flash truly is smart enough?
The refusal of an EOS camera to honor a set shutter speed in Manual Mode with an EOS flash, is always disconcerting to me, until I remember that shutter speeds higher than 1/200th or 1/250th will not illuminate the entire frame as the focal plane slit passes across the silicon sensor in such a manner that a single burst of light is totally unable to illuminate the entire sensor. With High Speed Synch activated, the flash emits a series of pulses, that allow the illumination to spread across the entire sensor surface over a longer duration of time as the narrow slit aperture passes across the sensor face, allowing "higher" shutter speeds ( at a modest cost of maximum flash power ) to even 1/4000th of a second. This ability is necessary for fill flash in bright sunlight, and very useful too!
I don't see why one would need a "maximum" flash anyway when it's just being used for fill flash in an otherwise bright and sunny setting... maybe that's just my brain computing the wrong way, but I am just ok with it
There is no particularly good reason not to make a habit of setting your flash to High Speed Sych every time you slip it into the shoe unless you know for certain that you will be using shutter speeds below 1/250. I (try) to make it a habit when shooting outdoors to ALWAYS push that button when I turn on the flash. After that it is a simple matter of riding the FEC wheel to achieve the desired "look". I wish it were set to HSS as default, and had to be changed for the traditional synch speeds. I shoot ETTL. Some like it....some don't.
Ah was just going to ask what the best "default" I should leave it on was, and that answers my question. Makes sense since most of the time I'll likely be shooting faster and therefore to only switch back when that's not the case. thanks.
I don't see why one would need a "maximum" flash anyway when it's just being used for fill flash in an otherwise bright and sunny setting... maybe that's just my brain computing the wrong way, but I am just ok with it
Well if you move from outdoors to indoors, say at a wedding or event, it would be nice not to have to remember to change the flash setting. Certainly for outdoors you dont need or want full flash, but if you change settings it would be nice if it went to full power capability when you went to say 1/60.
Well if you move from outdoors to indoors, say at a wedding or event, it would be nice not to have to remember to change the flash setting. Certainly for outdoors you dont need or want full flash, but if you change settings it would be nice if it went to full power capability when you went to say 1/60.
Presumably high speed sync reduces the power of the flash, since it must fire multiple times rapidly. If that is the case, in lower speed situations, you may not want the reduced flash power. Would be cool if the flash were smart in this respect.
It is smart in that respect. It will do whatever it thinks it needs to do to expose the scene a correct 18% grey.
With Manual flash at 1/1 power if you put on HSS at 1/2000 and shoot it's gonna shoot full power. Not a low power rapid burst of flash.
It will do the same in ETTL-II if the camera thinks the scene calls for it.
Canon 40D : Canon 400D : Canon Elan 7NE : Canon 580EX : 2 x Canon 430EX : Canon 24-70 f2.8L : Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L USM : Canon 28-135mm f/3.5 IS : 18-55mm f/3.5 : 4GB Sandisk Extreme III : 2GB Sandisk Extreme III : 2 x 1GB Sandisk Ultra II : Sekonik L358
Comments
It is pulses of light rather than one big pulse. I still say if shooting outdoors....in daylight...there is no good reason not to keep it set on HSS.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
The Sigma EF 500 DG Super flash, and I presume the 530 version, do drop out of FP mode when you switch back below the camera sync speed, but they do not automatically go back to FP mode when you try to increase the shutter speed again. You hae to tap a button twice to get back into FP mode, which I don't find a big deal.
There are some who believe that the original Canon 580EX flash does indeed emit a single pulse at shutter speeds below flash sync, even though the flash shows "FP" mode is active. Perhaps the flash truly is smart enough?
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I don't see why one would need a "maximum" flash anyway when it's just being used for fill flash in an otherwise bright and sunny setting... maybe that's just my brain computing the wrong way, but I am just ok with it
Facebook: Friend / Fan || Twitter: @shimamizu || Google Plus
Ah was just going to ask what the best "default" I should leave it on was, and that answers my question. Makes sense since most of the time I'll likely be shooting faster and therefore to only switch back when that's not the case. thanks.
Facebook: Friend / Fan || Twitter: @shimamizu || Google Plus
yeah and that was before I had an external flash
Facebook: Friend / Fan || Twitter: @shimamizu || Google Plus
Well if you move from outdoors to indoors, say at a wedding or event, it would be nice not to have to remember to change the flash setting. Certainly for outdoors you dont need or want full flash, but if you change settings it would be nice if it went to full power capability when you went to say 1/60.
No need to reset IF you move indoors. Try it.
Original post was about outdoors anyway.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
It is smart in that respect. It will do whatever it thinks it needs to do to expose the scene a correct 18% grey.
With Manual flash at 1/1 power if you put on HSS at 1/2000 and shoot it's gonna shoot full power. Not a low power rapid burst of flash.
It will do the same in ETTL-II if the camera thinks the scene calls for it.
dak.smugmug.com