Stupid queston

ShepsMom · June 4, 2008

I'm finally getting ready to purchase studio light, may be 1 soft box and 1 umbrells, etc.
I'm looking into continues lighting set up, but i don't want HOT lights, i want "cool lights", so my stupid question of the day is. If i'm to get a kit, can i possibly replace a regular light bulb with "daylight balanced" fluerecent one with the highest power? Or am i too crazy to even think this way? :huh Really, i am technically challenged and don't know what i'm talking about.:dgrin
I don't want strobes, i know nothing about them, it is my first try at studio and i want learn all about lighting set up, then upgrade to strobes, or else.

Anyone? :bow

raptorcaptor · June 4, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

I'm finally getting ready to purchase studio light, may be 1 soft box and 1 umbrells, etc.
I'm looking into continues lighting set up, but i don't want HOT lights, i want "cool lights", so my stupid question of the day is. If i'm to get a kit, can i possibly replace a regular light bulb with "daylight balanced" fluerecent one with the highest power? Or am i too crazy to even think this way? Really, i am technically challenged and don't know what i'm talking about.:dgrin
I don't want strobes, i know nothing about them, it is my first try at studio and i want learn all about lighting set up, then upgrade to strobes, or else.

Anyone?

I would spend some time at strobist: http://strobist.blogspot.com/
before you make your decison. He has a lot of really good advice, and explainations of how some photos were lit.

I bought some hot lights for video a few years ago, and I never use them.

pathfinder · June 4, 2008

Most studio strobes have modeling lights, so that you can see the shadows of the flash. Hot lights are HOT. Cool lights ( flourescent ) are cooler, but less bright than flash.

I would think carefully before deciding to use continuos lights rather than studio strobes or even speedlites ( which do not have modeling lights )

YMMV of course.

joshhuntnm · June 4, 2008

one solution: I bought a 580ex and two 430ex. B and H has a kit with two stands and two umbrellas that the flashs fit onto. You don't get modeling lights, but it is super portable.

SloYerRoll · June 4, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

i want "cool lights", so my stupid question of the day is. If i'm to get a kit, can i possibly replace a regular light bulb with "daylight balanced" fluerecent one with the highest power?

To answer this question. A modeling light is ONLY for you to set up your lighting so you can determine shadows and reflections etc. None of this light will actually contribute to the exposure.

When you trigger the light, the real light fires and is many times more powerful than the modeling light. So it doesn't matter what color temp your modeling light is. Even if it DID matter (which it doesn't to be redundant), you should be shooting in RAW so WB is moot.

BTW: The previous two posters have dropped some wisdom on you. You should really listen to them

Art Scott · June 4, 2008

no question is a stupid question.......or so I have been told many times.

pathfinder wrote:

Most studio strobes have modeling lights, so that you can see the shadows of the flash. Hot lights are HOT. Cool lights ( flourescent ) are cooler, but less bright than flash.

I would think carefully before deciding to use continuos lights rather than studio strobes or even speedlites ( which do not have modeling lights )

YMMV of course.

i have to agree whole heartedly here.......I have been around hot light most of my life....you know those fantastic halogen work lights....yeah they can be and have been used for a long time for photo work......but after burning myself usig them as work lights I never had a thought of using them for photowork.....well once I did....I took 1 500 watt halogen into my studio area and turned it on....in less than 20 minutes it had raised the temp several degrees.....so that was out
I helpped set up a 1 hr processor and a cool light studio for the owner....again I did not like not having the control I had with my sunpak 622's.....
the camera flash drawback......

1: you will run thru batteries quickly unless you have some sort of AC adaprter or a battery like a quantum battery for it....

2: no hot or cool lights ....for a beginning photog just starting out with 1st studio........I truly suggest investing in moderately priced studio STROBES....such as the Alien Bee 800's.....these are mid line of the AB group......but are fantastic and should hold their value for a few years in case you decide studio work is not for you......

3: A world renown glamour photog gave me some advice in the late 70's.......he said never buy lights of different models.....in other words keep all lighting equipment the same.....if you use canon and buy a 580EX and decide you need another....then do not buy a 480ex( or what ever canon calls it, I cannot remember sorry canonites)...keep them all the same.....that way it does not matter which is your main light or hair light or background lights....this way they are all interchangeable.......
There a lot of people here that mix and match their lights so to speak....but all it takes is for your most powerful light to "DIE" and then you have to resort to making due with the less powerful and you have troubles....your confidence will drop and you will show your client that your nervous and if that is a wedding...it can cause nervous looks or tension in the photos.....
Also with strobes you have more control of power out put.....most hot and cool lights are either on or off .....unless you spend a lot and then you might as well have strobes...............

4: Buy the most powerful strobes you can afford and get at least 3 of them......main light....background light.....hair/background light.....Personally I would never buy the bottom end of any line of studio lighting......move up to the mid range.......there is one thing you can never have to much of and that is light as long as you can control it.....so if you could afford a set of say 6 strobes that were 10,000 watt seconds I would say go for it.....I have heard several PRO friends conversing of weddings and hearing them all agree they never took enuff light into one of our catholic churches here the 1st time they shot there......dark, super high ceilings and a very long sanctuary....hard to light........I showed up with all of my studio lights my first time there and got lucky to have an assistant to help with set up and strike so I could make the reception on time

so do not think of what if I decide to not pursue studio shooting.....if you should..stick them on the flea market here......

5: best color for 1st background.....BLACK....a 10 x 24 from AMVONA is less than $80 (I think).......you can color this by using theatrical gels...in fact once you get a dozen gels you can mix and match until your heart is content....paint your background with light if you will..........

6: Umbrellas or soft boxes....I personally do not like the rectangle or square catch lights of soft boxes......I have 2 each 42" brolley boxes from the Alien Bee company arriving tomorrow.....they will replace my old yellowed white umbrellas......easy to set up and store ....light weight (less than 2 lbs each)

7: light stands......moderately priced air cushioned.....I am still using a set of non air cushioned ( I literally paid less than $10 each for them in 1979....if I had it to do over again they would be air cushioned) that is over 20 yrs old but some times it is a struggle to get them to compact or to pull out of them selves.....aluminium gets like this after several years of hard use.........

This is mostly just my opinon and some is the opinon of my mentor and is noted so in #3 opening......:D

Hope I have inundated you with info.........

Hope this has helped

Sam · June 4, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

I'm finally getting ready to purchase studio light, may be 1 soft box and 1 umbrells, etc.
I'm looking into continues lighting set up, but i don't want HOT lights, i want "cool lights", so my stupid question of the day is. If i'm to get a kit, can i possibly replace a regular light bulb with "daylight balanced" fluerecent one with the highest power? Or am i too crazy to even think this way? Really, i am technically challenged and don't know what i'm talking about.:dgrin
I don't want strobes, i know nothing about them, it is my first try at studio and i want learn all about lighting set up, then upgrade to strobes, or else.

Anyone?

I am gona give you some good advice. Feel free to totally ignore it.

Buy the strobes!!!

I felt the same way, but just bit the bullet. When the box arrived, I unpacked everything, plugged it in, connected the camera, and bang I had light!

While becoming an expert will take awhile, you will be amazed at how fast you can start using them.

Now go ahead and waste your money on hot / cool / inadequate lighting.

Sam

pathfinder · June 4, 2008

Marina,
I see that I am not the only one here who has rec'd studio strobes over continuous hot or cold lighting.

I'll bet I am not the only one who tried to get by with continuous lighting, before breaking down and buying good studio strobes either.

ShepsMom · June 4, 2008

Whew you guys, i've read each reply carefully, and i thank each and every one of you for your opinions.

Now, i think my problem is i'm scared of strobes (no not like clowns)

As i mentioned, i'm technically challenged, and i wouldn't know how to set up my camera with strobes. Is it really that easy?? Do i make a big deal out of it?

I have Nikon D-80, do i need something special for my camera, or lights are pretty much universal? See, i know nothing, i've read enough about the subject to confuse myself even more, but i can't learn by reading, i'm just one of these people that can only learn by doing. So, i think i'll visit my local Wolf Camera and have those guys show me how strobes work. They are pretty friendly there

I looked into Alien Bees, i found them quiet expensive. I'm sure i can find something cheaper elsewhere. ?!

joshhuntnm · June 4, 2008

Call b and h photo.

Art Scott · June 5, 2008

Look inside yur quoted message for bold italic answers.......

ShepsMom wrote:

Whew you guys, i've read each reply carefully, and i thank each and every one of you for your opinions.

Now, i think my problem is i'm scared of strobes (no not like clowns) As i mentioned, i'm technically challenged, and i wouldn't know how to set up my camera with strobes.
Is it really that easy?? Yes it is really that easy....
Do i make a big deal out of it? Yeah your sorta making a big deal out of it......it really is almost as easy as your dedicated programmed Nikon flash you already own.......I sad almost:D

I have Nikon D-80, do i need something special for my camera, or lights are pretty much universal? Almost universal.....if you have a nikon (or sigma flash for your camera) flash that can be used to trigger the studio strobes.....now you say the alien bees are expensive.....not any more for the AB800 than a Sigma EF 530DG SUper in a Nikon mount and I bet a SB600 is even more......here is how to look at it.....unless you want to get into shooting really large commerical shoots in reall ylarge venues...these lights will last you most of your shooting life if taken care of.....I have not checked b=what a total rebuild of an AB is but the white Lightnings I use cost under $100 for total rebuild and they been manufactured for almost 10 yrs.....made by same company......Paul Buffs First Strobes were the White Lightning 5000's that I use.....and I am almost ready to upgrade and sell them (all 5 of them)..........BESIDES THE STROBES I highly recommend a mid priced handheld flash meter......this will make life a lot easier and getting the lights set a lot faster.........

See, i know nothing, i've read enough about the subject to confuse myself even more, but i can't learn by reading, i'm just one of these people that can only learn by doing. So, i think i'll visit my local Wolf Camera and have those guys show me how strobes work. They are pretty friendly there

Actually all you need to do is get one....make sure the fkash tube and modeling lights are pluged or screwed in .....plug the plug into the wall....turn it on.....pop up the D80's pop up falsh and point in general direction of strobe and fire camera...strobe should fire.....that is it.....

I looked into Alien Bees, i found them quiet expensive. See Above, remember they are an investment and also a tax deduction.......

I'm sure i can find something cheaper elsewhere. Maybe...but this is an investment.....good quality lights keep value.....cheap lights (Britek)...well they don't keep value and people won't want to pay almost full price for them even a month from the purchase date.....

?!

OK I did not see a flash listed.....so I recommend one of these little jewels........a wireless flash trigger ......IT IS THE ONE i HAVE PURCHASED.....it keeps the sync voltage of the strobes from damaging your camera since your camera is never tthered to the flash.....a great value for less than $30 incliuding S/H.........a decent flash meter will run less that $200 new or around $100 - 150 used.......this is where you start shooting in manual mode and learn to love it......I meant his whole heartedly........REALLY I DO..............

ShepsMom · June 5, 2008

Hehe Scott, you are probably right, sometimes i make big deal out of nothing.
My flash is Nikon SB-800, not that it means anything to me as far as strobes go

How much power do you really need for a studio light?

SloYerRoll · June 5, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

Hehe Scott, you are probably right, sometimes i make big deal out of nothing.
My flash is Nikon SB-800, not that it means anything to me as far as strobes go

How much power do you really need for a studio light?

When your talking about power, you start getting into watt/seconds and other things that to be honest are over your head. Not because it's some mystical formula. Only because you haven't studied and learned it yet

The SB-800 is the top of the line Nikon speedlight. You can use this to control multiple off camera SB-600/800's and other cool things.

While I'll be the endless echo that says use speedlights. I've found there are some situations where they jsut don't have enough power. So I'd like to back up a second and ask:

What exactly do you want to awlk away with after you make your purchase? If we understand your needs, we can definitively give you a solution that works for you.

Art Scott · June 5, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

Hehe Scott, you are probably right, sometimes i make big deal out of nothing.
My flash is Nikon SB-800, not that it means anything to me as far as strobes go

How much power do you really need for a studio light?

How much power do I really need you ask.......I will answer this way......No matter what you purchase if you shoot long enough you will run into situations where all of a sudden you do not have enuff lights.....

You have an SB800....Nikons most powerful strobe.......you purchased top of the line....that is very good...... that flash cannot leave you wanting more features.......and it cost more that an AB800......Back to your Question of How Much.......
You need all the power you can afford.......here is why.......usually the more powerful the lights the more control you have....My WL 5000's have full, 1/3 and 2/3.......not enuff control.....I learned to use ND gels and barndoors and all kind of control devices to cut down on light but I could not get MORE light.......in earlier post I referred to a large catholic church....if I had not taken 5 lights to that wedding I would never have been able to light the group shots after the ceremony.......my Sunpak 622's are more powerful than my Studio strobes but no modeling light.......

funny thing is we as photographers are never satisfied.....we NEED MORE....of everything......or we decide to make do and refuse jobs that we cannot do for lack of........LIGHT.......or thinking we do not have enuff light.

As I said it is an investment........if you never ever take your strobes out of a very small studio environment.....then you could get away with some of the cheap Britek.....not sure of their warranty.....I know I push Paul Buffs lighting and that is because I have seen friends get very bad service from Novatron and other brands.....I had a White Lightning take a tumble down a few flights of stairs .....mailed to Paul Buff and it came back ready to shoot again........it was a warranty repair and I sent a along a letter and photos of the stairs it went down......no quibble just repaired and a thank you letter for choosing White Lightning....at the time this was his only line of Lights..........

Sam · June 5, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

Whew you guys, i've read each reply carefully, and i thank each and every one of you for your opinions.

Now, i think my problem is i'm scared of strobes (no not like clowns) As i mentioned, i'm technically challenged, and i wouldn't know how to set up my camera with strobes. Is it really that easy?? Do i make a big deal out of it?

I have Nikon D-80, do i need something special for my camera, or lights are pretty much universal? See, i know nothing, i've read enough about the subject to confuse myself even more, but i can't learn by reading, i'm just one of these people that can only learn by doing. So, i think i'll visit my local Wolf Camera and have those guys show me how strobes work. They are pretty friendly there

I looked into Alien Bees, i found them quiet expensive. I'm sure i can find something cheaper elsewhere. ?!

It concerns me when you say Alien Bees are quite expensive, and you are looking for something cheaper. Alien Bess, is one of the best bang for the buck lighting systems out there. The company is one of, if not the best when it comes to customer service in the industry.

I am not sure there is anything on the market that costs less, and is worth buying. What is your budget?

Be careful of the cheap no name kits coming out of china.

Is there any Smugmug in your area, with lights that could give you a quick demo?

Again to use them well and have creative lighting that matches your vision will take some time to learn, but to have light is dirt simple.

Sam

Shudderz · June 5, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

I looked into Alien Bees, i found them quiet expensive. I'm sure i can find something cheaper elsewhere. ?!

Really for studio lights that you can control well....you aren't going to beat the price much.

SloYerRoll · June 5, 2008

Sam wrote:

It concerns me when you say Alien Bees are quite expensive, and you are looking for something cheaper. Alien Bess, is one of the best bang for the buck lighting systems out there. The company is one of, if not the best when it comes to customer service in the industry.

Shudderz wrote:

Really for studio lights that you can control well....you aren't going to beat the price much.

x2

joshhuntnm · June 5, 2008

I am trying to get clear on the terms for various lights.

is this a "strobe"?
http://www.alienbees.com/b800.html

is a flash (like Canon 580EX) a strobe?

ziggy53 · June 5, 2008

joshhuntnm wrote:

I am trying to get clear on the terms for various lights.

is this a "strobe"?
http://www.alienbees.com/b800.html

is a flash (like Canon 580EX) a strobe?

Both use electronic flash tubes to produce light and both are commonly called "strobes".

The Alien Bees are more properly called "monolights" because they provide a single self contained unit for both power and flash.

Units that use a separate power supply and multiple "heads" are called "pack lights".

The smaller hotshoe flashes are commonly called "speedlights".

All of these lights produce an instantaneous burst using electronic flash tubes. (Except for speedlights when used in FP/HSS mode.)

ziggy53 · June 5, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

...
How much power do you really need for a studio light?

A single studio strobe may not be enough to satisfy many studio needs. Even Walmart typically uses at least 2 lights.

Perhaps it would be best to learn some of the typical lighting setups before committing to purchase:

http://www.professionalphotography101.com/portrait_lighting/Portrait_lighting_diagrams.html
http://forum.montezucker.com/index.php?act=ST&f=11&t=8344&st=0
http://www.scribd.com/doc/2161228/Master-Lighting-Guide-For-Portrait-Photographers

Nikolai · June 5, 2008

Marina,

I do NOT recommend hot (or even cold) continuous lights, unless you're shooting still life only.

Start with a couple of simple flash units, like use 580EX as a commander and one (or two) 420 as a slave. Get two 10' lightstands, a reflector (I use 5-in-1 3'x4', but round 3' or more will do, too), an umbrella and a brollybox.
This setup, especially in 3-light configuration would allow you to start playing and it can also be used as a light-weight location setup.
This whole setup would cost you less than a grand even if you buy everything brand new.
Once you get your hands onto it you will eventually learn more and become ready for more advanced gear. In any case the idea is to buy good stuff little by little. This way you won't pay too much upfront and will always be using most of the hardware.

Let me finish with what Shay told me in 2004: "Studio lighting is expensive and complicated". It's very true. You can't master it overnight. And it costs WAY more than camera body (and even some glass), so the mistakes are very costly (especially considering the fact that used lighting is very hard to sell unlike the body, glass and less expensive accessories).

So, start small, start smart, play with what you have, learn, plan, build your studio piece by piece by getting a good stuff and keeping it. I'm still using the Sunpaks and lightstands I bought in 2004 on Shay's advice. Here's the Tuesday night setup shot with one of them in the frame (another one out of the frame on the camera left, you can see its light on the left girl's ...uhm.. shoulder:-):

Good luck!

ShepsMom · June 5, 2008

Ok, what i want is a small studio at home, preferably portable, so i can take it elsewhere. No, i'm not doing weddings, i want to do mostly portraits, full body shots, head shots type, because right now, all i do is outside with natural light.

I purchased my SB-800 a while back, and yes, I'm very happy with it, when i use it.
I'm looking to get may be 2 umbrellas, or 1 umbrella and soft box. Perfect set up would be 3 lights. I want to start slow, and may be just get one umbrella/soft box, and experiment, then get more as i go.
I was just looking at AB, and i see Beginner package. Is this a complete set up or what else do i need? I see a flash unit, umbrella, stand and a bag, do i get sync cord with it? It's $373.00 with shipping. I really don't know much about the whole technical thing of this. :cry

Art Scott · June 5, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

Ok, what i want is a small studio at home, preferably portable, so i can take it elsewhere. No, i'm not doing weddings, i want to do mostly portraits, full body shots, head shots type, because right now, all i do is outside with natural light.

I purchased my SB-800 a while back, and yes, I'm very happy with it, when i use it.
I'm looking to get may be 2 umbrellas, or 1 umbrella and soft box. Perfect set up would be 3 lights. I want to start slow, and may be just get one umbrella/soft box, and experiment, then get more as i go.
I was just looking at AB, and i see Beginner package. Is this a complete set up or what else do i need? I see a flash unit, umbrella, stand and a bag, do i get sync cord with it? It's $373.00 with shipping. I really don't know much about the whole technical thing of this. :cry

A 3 light set up would be ideal....either the AB400 or 800.....as the Photo (his name is PETER GOWLAND and he shot for Playboy, Snap-On Tool, Rigid Tools and tons of movie star head shots )......his suggestion for 3 lights was ! main light and 2 backlights......now I made my own back light stand....using 2 - 3lb coffee cans filled with Quik-Crete with a smooth Re-bar coming out.....1 had 12" of Re-bar above the can and the 2nd one had almost 3 feet coming out....small enuff to hide easily and heavy enuff so the lights and gel holders did not pull it over......

Yes all of Paul Buffs lights shouuld have sync cords but as I stated in an earlier post....Studio Strobes usually have a higher sync voltage than a digital camera can handle so I suggest one of the inexpensive 16 channel wireless strobe triggers.....here is link to the one I have purchased....LINKY

You could actually get by using yur SB800 set to say 1/16 or 1/32 power and the head turned toward the main light.....but I really prefer this inexpensive wireless radio trigger......

Do not forget to pick up an Incident Flash Meter....again this will help idiot proof portrait sessions.....even in natural light outdoors and they are not hard to learn..........

At least it will not cost you and arm and leg to learn to shoot with studio lights since you can just look at the shots on your computer and do as a lot us had to do and have film processed:D

Keep notes on how you set things up....shoot pics of each of your set ups.......if you can find a wig bust in the Goodwills or Salvation army stores it can help with lighting for headshot portraits......I would love to find a poseable mannequin to work with......:D

There are some good books on lighting out there.....BookPool is having a fantastic sale of 40-50% off most books........

I would also suggest Peter Gowlands New Handbook of Glamour Photography ISBN 0517568985 Peter Gowland is one of the few Pros to do a shoot write a book and explain his lighting and shooting techniques for the photos in the book.....easy to understand.........When talking to him on the phone he suggested that I actually (emulate) his work.....he said my work has already sold and is proven and it would be a real honor to be copied by another photog and from there you can create your own style.....the he sent me some posing guides (his actual photo catalogs)........He has always been ready to help when I have contacted him...........

The above link takes you to an Amazon page with books ranging from less than 1$ on up.........

In the front of the book he gives a lighting set u for a single flash and umbrella....I think the umbrella was a 9 or 10' one and it had a single Norman flash head mounted in it......it is really cool to see his set ups and he shot a lot of outdoor stuff on the beaches around his home in Santa Monica.......

Umbrellas.....Paul Buff also has the Brolley box....take a look at it.....mine just arriveds today......but with the storms we are having (electricity going on and off) I have just unboxed to make sure they were in perfect condition.......and they look great.......going to start some product shooting this weekend or early next week (Antique China to be Sold on Ebay, a couple of compound bows and other stuff for Ebay.....also some photo equipment to post one here for sale......) to put them thru their paces as well as the lights thru their paces.......

ShepsMom · June 6, 2008

Art Scott wrote:

......I would love to find a poseable mannequin to work with......:D

That's where my son and my BF come in handy

Thank you Art for thoughtful advise, i will check all the links you've provided and see where i'm at. I really really want to get something to start with, i might consider AB's after all.
And yes, i am affraid to fry my camera, may be that's why i'm so paranoid about strobes

Art Scott · June 6, 2008

ShepsMom wrote:

And yes, i am affraid to fry my camera, may be that's why i'm so paranoid about strobes

As long as you use a wireless radio trigger...linked in other posts or your SB800 as the trigger....there will be NO WAY TO FRY your camera. Not to mention people will see your flash turned sideways and shooting to a wall and some will ask "why".........

Scott_Quier · June 6, 2008

Marina,

Here's a list of thoughts, in not particular order, that I think may help you in your decision process.

Working with strobes is EASIER than working with continuous light.
- You can control the intensity of strobe light,
- Your model will not get as tired working under strobes as he/she/they will under the continuous light,
- Strobes are usually much brighter than continues light - allowing for smaller apertures if you need them
- They are cooler and safer to work with
I have AB800 (4 of them), have had them for almost 2 years and love them.
The difference between the AB400 and the AB800 is, nominally, only 1 stop of light. Same for the difference between the AB800 and the AB1600.
They each came with a sync-cord.
In a small studio setting, you can trigger an AB by
- Using a sync cord plugged into one of the ABs and the other end into your camera
- A radion transmitter on your camera and a paired receiver plugged into one of your ABs
- Your SB-800 on camera. Set the power to manual, 1/128 power (or as low as it will go), turn it AWAY from your subject. The flash, even at this low power level will trigger all your ABs (as they all have internal optical slave triggers).
- Once one of your ABs has triggered, the others will follow suite - the optical slave trigger in each really works!
As Art Scott, and others, have suggested, get at least 2 strobes. One for your main light and the other for fill. Three or more will make your life that much easier. Believe me. I went wit just 3 the first time. In short order, I ended up getting another one.
Get a flash/ambient light meter. The Sekonic L-358 is what I use and love. There are others that cost more and others that cost less. If you get one, it will make setting the ratios of your strobes sooooo much easier.
Setting up strobes is not hard. Just remember a couple of things:
- Light travels in a straight line
- If your subject can't see the light source, your light source will not light your subjects eyes (see previous remark:D). By the same token, if you are standing behind your light source and you can't see your subject, neither can the light.
- Light will reflect off of surfaces. The amount that is reflected is governed by how light/dark that surface is and the reflectivity of it (is it shiny or dull).
- The amount of light reaching your model is governed by the inverse-square law. Basically, every time you double the distance between your subject and your light, you loose 2 stops of light. Decrease the distance between you light and your subject, the light on your subject increases by 2 stops. Here's a decent discussion of this (link).
- The apparent size of the light source (as seen at/by the subject) controls it's softness/harshness and, assuming the use of the same light modifier:
  - The closer your light source to your subject, the "softer" it will be.
  - If your light is far enough from your subject it, it will be "high-contrast"/"harsh" light because it looks small to the to the subject (if it's far enough away).
- Light modifiers (diffusers) will make the light much kinder to peoples faces.
- Catch-lights in the eyes will be the shape of your light source.
- White walls can cause light spill - this is uncontrolled light that falls on your subject. Sometimes it's a significant problem - like when you are working in a small space and the strobe-wall-subject distance is similar to the strobe-subject distance. Other times, it's not - like when you are working in a gym sized room and the first distace is significantly longer then the second.
Lighting is expensive. $375 for a light, stand, and modifier is not a lot.
Read the strobist

Art Scott · June 6, 2008

Scott_Quier wrote:

Marina,

Here's a list of thoughts, in not particular order, that I think may help you in your decision process.
Working with strobes is EASIER than working with continuous light.
You can control the intensity of strobe light,

Your model will not get as tired working under strobes as he/she/they will under the continuous light,

Strobes are usually much brighter than continues light - allowing for smaller apertures if you need them

They are cooler and safer to work with

I have AB800 (4 of them), have had them for almost 2 years and love them.

The difference between the AB400 and the AB800 is, nominally, only 1 stop of light. Same for the difference between the AB800 and the AB1600.

They each came with a sync-cord.

In a small studio setting, you can trigger an AB by
Using a sync cord plugged into one of the ABs and the other end into your camera

A radion transmitter on your camera and a paired receiver plugged into one of your ABs

Your SB-800 on camera. Set the power to manual, 1/128 power (or as low as it will go), turn it AWAY from your subject. The flash, even at this low power level will trigger all your ABs (as they all have internal optical slave triggers).

Once one of your ABs has triggered, the others will follow suite - the optical slave trigger in each really works!

As Art Scott, and others, have suggested, get at least 2 strobes. One for your main light and the other for fill. Three or more will make your life that much easier. Believe me. I went wit just 3 the first time. In short order, I ended up getting another one.

Get a flash/ambient light meter. The Sekonic L-358 is what I use and love. There are others that cost more and others that cost less. If you get one, it will make setting the ratios of your strobes sooooo much easier.

Setting up strobes is not hard. Just remember a couple of things:
Light travels in a straight line

If your subject can't see the light source, your light source will not light your subjects eyes (see previous remark:D). By the same token, if you are standing behind your light source and you can't see your subject, neither can the light.

Light will reflect off of surfaces. The amount that is reflected is governed by how light/dark that surface is and the reflectivity of it (is it shiny or dull).

The amount of light reaching your model is governed by the inverse-square law. Basically, every time you double the distance between your subject and your light, you loose 2 stops of light. Decrease the distance between you light and your subject, the light on your subject increases by 2 stops. Here's a decent discussion of this (link).

The apparent size of the light source (as seen at/by the subject) controls it's softness/harshness and, assuming the use of the same light modifier:
The closer your light source to your subject, the "softer" it will be.

If your light is far enough from your subject it, it will be "high-contrast"/"harsh" light because it looks small to the to the subject (if it's far enough away).

Light modifiers (diffusers) will make the light much kinder to peoples faces.

Catch-lights in the eyes will be the shape of your light source.

White walls can cause light spill - this is uncontrolled light that falls on your subject. Sometimes it's a significant problem - like when you are working in a small space and the strobe-wall-subject distance is similar to the strobe-subject distance. Other times, it's not - like when you are working in a gym sized room and the first distace is significantly longer then the second.

Lighting is expensive. $375 for a light, stand, and modifier is not a lot.

Read the strobist

SCOTT YOU DA MAN......You summed up everything I had been trying to say in all of my hard to read and lenghty posts.......

clap

Nikolai · June 6, 2008

Art Scott wrote:

SCOTT YOU DA MAN......You summed up everything I had been trying to say in all of my hard to read and lenghty posts.......clap

Good writeup, partner!

joshhuntnm · June 6, 2008

Scott_Quier wrote:

Marina,

Here'sLighting is expensive. $375 for a light, stand, and modifier is not a lot.

Thanks Scott, for taking the time to school us.

Light is expensive, but probably makes more difference than the body, number of megapixals or maybe even the glass.

I used to think the questions are in this order:
What camera?
What glass?
What light?

From where I stand to day, the reverse is probably a better order.

Nikolai · June 6, 2008

joshhuntnm wrote:

Thanks Scott, for taking the time to school us.

Light is expensive, but probably makes more difference than the body, number of megapixals or maybe even the glass.

I used to think the questions are in this order:
What camera?
What glass?
What light?

From where I stand to day, the reverse is probably a better order.

You forgot to add the "vision", it's actually even more important than everything else:-)

ShepsMom · June 6, 2008

Thank you Scott, you are always very helpful! I'm printing your reply!! I understand how light works, that's not the problem, it's the hardware i'm freaking out about

)

I will let you all know what i'm going to end up with. Shall be interesting week.

Thanks all again, was educational, non the less

Stupid queston

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