Ah, browsing the photos I took today, I found this, which I think matches better your requirements...
However I had to even a little the snow... does it look better?
Yes, better :-)
No reflector to fill the shadows, huh?
...
* I don't think a reflector will ever fit in my overloaded suitcase... no way....
Duct tape a windshield protector (folded) to the outside of the suitcase. If it makes it, you've got a reflector. If not, you're out $1.99 (on sale, or $3~$4 otherwise) and it's no loss.
If responding to a picture I've posted: please, provide constructive criticism. Destructive criticism can go take a flying leap.
If we don't know what could be improved or could have been done differently, we'll never know how to get better at what we're doing.
... Another image that is very close to the high key concept technically is the lake shot by NateW, but its lack of primary subject and the non-even background still keeps it from scoring 100%. ...
OK, so it's snowing again and I'll have more chances to get an improved shot. With more subject!
And if I have to, I'll get my 4 year old son to walk out on the lake with me this time instead of running back to the car.
If responding to a picture I've posted: please, provide constructive criticism. Destructive criticism can go take a flying leap.
If we don't know what could be improved or could have been done differently, we'll never know how to get better at what we're doing.
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EOS 350D, 50mm 1.8 MKII prime lens, 17-40mm f/4 L lens, 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens, 430 EX speedlite, Tungsten Continuous studio light, Pocket Wizards, Gary Fong Lightsphere, Stofen Omni bounce diffuser, 5in1 reflector
Duct tape a windshield protector (folded) to the outside of the suitcase. If it makes it, you've got a reflector. If not, you're out $1.99 (on sale, or $3~$4 otherwise) and it's no loss.
Have a great time!
Thank you NateW, I will consider your suggestions
All the best, and watch the daily photos community for Mexico news
Fresh meaning they were taken with the intent of posting them on here for the assignment. I believe... dang... I still have to redo my entree... haven't had any time this past week.
Ahh well the only thing that's natural about my high key shot is the natural lighting. Other than that, my subject is against a painted white wall and i have photoshopped it to give it a high key look. Would that still count?
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EOS 350D, 50mm 1.8 MKII prime lens, 17-40mm f/4 L lens, 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens, 430 EX speedlite, Tungsten Continuous studio light, Pocket Wizards, Gary Fong Lightsphere, Stofen Omni bounce diffuser, 5in1 reflector
Ahh well the only thing that's natural about my high key shot is the natural lighting. Other than that, my subject is against a painted white wall and i have photoshopped it to give it a high key look. Would that still count?
did it look high key before photoshop? did you remove any shadows? did you molest that little boy? oops sorry you're not Michael Jackson. If you answered yes to the first one and no to the last two, than it might qualify.
did it look high key before photoshop? did you remove any shadows?
Of course I had to remove shadows. It's my job as a photographer to achieve a 3D look to a 2D image lol.
I have had to leave some shadows in too, so you could see my subject, or I would have had a completely white document.
Here's a before ...
... and here's the after. Thus making it photoshopped high key so still not sure it qualifies.
I'm off to bed now so will check for replies in the morning. Sweet dreams all.x
I'll remove them if they don't qualify.
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EOS 350D, 50mm 1.8 MKII prime lens, 17-40mm f/4 L lens, 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens, 430 EX speedlite, Tungsten Continuous studio light, Pocket Wizards, Gary Fong Lightsphere, Stofen Omni bounce diffuser, 5in1 reflector
Nikolai will of course be the teacher, but this looks pretty high key to me... Though if the wall is truly white, it might actually be a bit under exposed (to me it looks gray here). Once it's properly exposed for the gray wall to be whiter, I bet most of the shadows go away.
Course, then the hood would completely go away, so that's prob not it. Maybe a reflector for some under-chin and neck/hair junction fill? (still say it's pretty good for a high key shot, though. I'm putting this out so I can say I said it was before Nik told us the real answer. )
(I'm taking this a chance to see if I really understand what our teacher's trying to teach on this one, so please Nik, tell me/us if this's right! Thank you!)
If responding to a picture I've posted: please, provide constructive criticism. Destructive criticism can go take a flying leap.
If we don't know what could be improved or could have been done differently, we'll never know how to get better at what we're doing.
Of course I had to remove shadows. It's my job as a photographer to achieve a 3D look to a 2D image lol.
I have had to leave some shadows in too, so you could see my subject, or I would have had a completely white document.
Here's a before ...
... and here's the after. Thus making it photoshopped high key so still not sure it qualifies.
I'm off to bed now so will check for replies in the morning. Sweet dreams all.x
I'll remove them if they don't qualify.
Thank you, great entry!
Albeit it's a bit more PS that I was envisioning, it's still pretty darn good!
Thank you, great entry!
Albeit it's a bit more PS that I was envisioning, it's still pretty darn good!
Woohoo! Thank you Nikolai
Which one? Would you like me to remove one?
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EOS 350D, 50mm 1.8 MKII prime lens, 17-40mm f/4 L lens, 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens, 430 EX speedlite, Tungsten Continuous studio light, Pocket Wizards, Gary Fong Lightsphere, Stofen Omni bounce diffuser, 5in1 reflector
No worries, what happens in the Class - stays in the Class
Thank you.
And I just found out, the high key BW image, was featured on the home page of Digital Camera Magazine today. I only uploaded it last night! :ivar
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EOS 350D, 50mm 1.8 MKII prime lens, 17-40mm f/4 L lens, 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS lens, 430 EX speedlite, Tungsten Continuous studio light, Pocket Wizards, Gary Fong Lightsphere, Stofen Omni bounce diffuser, 5in1 reflector
Thank you.
And I just found out, the high key BW image, was featured on the home page of Digital Camera Magazine today. I only uploaded it last night! :ivar
this is one of those deceptively easy assignments that was instantly impossible once I picked up a camera. In the end, this was about all I could capture from from ski day, and yes it was on a p&s camera. All I changed was the crop on this, no other PSing involved. High key enough? I admit I'm not sure.
any suggestions (aside from lackluster subject choice) appreciated.
this is one of those deceptively easy assignments that was instantly impossible once I picked up a camera. In the end, this was about all I could capture from from ski day, and yes it was on a p&s camera. All I changed was the crop on this, no other PSing involved. High key enough? I admit I'm not sure.
Any suggestions (aside from lackluster subject choice) appreciated.
Leah, the answer, unfortunately, is "general no".
no uniform, wll washed out background
no low contrast subject
In your scenario, what you would have to do is
get a fairly skinned, prefeably blond, subject dressed in whitish cloth
go out during the midday (remember, high key needs a lot of light)
position your subject with his/her back towards the sun against a snow field/slope
point your camera to the said background (zoom in if you have to so the bg fills the whole frame) and obtain the "bg exposure"
Adjust the exposure in a way that bg is overexposed by at least 2-3 stops
Make sure the resulting settings are OK for the subject to be exposed properly (slight overexposure is fine). You will most likely need some "fill", for which you may need to use some sort of reflector, be it a foam board, a white wall, another slope, etc.
You still may need some PS work done, but this should give you a good base image
get a fairly skinned, prefeably blond, subject dressed in whitish cloth
go out during the midday (remember, high key needs a lot of light)
position your subject with his/her back towards the sun against a snow field/slope
point your camera to the said background (zoom in if you have to so the bg fills the whole frame) and obtain the "bg exposure"
Adjust the exposure in a way that bg is overexposed by at least 2-3 stops
Make sure the resulting settings are OK for the subject to be exposed properly (slight overexposure is fine). You will most likely need some "fill", for which you may need to use some sort of reflector, be it a foam board, a white wall, another slope, etc.
You still may need some PS work done, but this should give you a good base image
I'd be thrilled if you (or somebody else) can prove me wrong . But thus far I find myself struggling with high key even with all my 8 studio lights, so I am kinda doubtful that indoor ambient light can cut it...
I'm not even going to attempt to do this right now... but... can you clarify something for me please???
When you say studio lights... are you talking flash or hot lights???
I bet if you use hot lights with a 5600K gel the effect could be done...
But don't quote ME on this...
Miguel www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
I'm not even going to attempt to do this right now... but... can you clarify something for me please???
When you say studio lights... are you talking flash or hot lights???
I bet if you use hot lights with a 5600K gel the effect could be done...
But don't quote ME on this...
In my case it's studio strobes (i.e. "flashes"), but it doesn't matter what are they. Neither does color temperature. What does matter is how much light power do they produce. You need a lot of light for the high key.
The difference (and advantage) of the strobes is that they are capable of producing all said amount of energy just in the nick of time, right when you need it, and then go back to sleep the next moment.
"Hot", aka continuos, lights inevitably produce all that energy all the time, thus pretty much wasting 99.999% of it and turning the studio into a branch of Hell Kitchen Ltd.
FWIW, even modeling lights of my strobes tend to heat up my little studio quite noticeably, +5F..+8F degrees after a couple of hours. I can't even imagine what it would be if I used continuos lighting, at least conventional one (I presume the modern fluorescents are better in this aspect, but I don't have any experience with those).
In my case it's studio strobes (i.e. "flashes"), but it doesn't matter what are they. Neither does color temperature. What does matter is how much light power do they produce. You need a lot of light for the high key.
The difference (and advantage) of the strobes is that they are capable of producing all said amount of energy just in the nick of time, right when you need it, and then go back to sleep the next moment.
"Hot", aka continuos, lights inevitably produce all that energy all the time, thus pretty much wasting 99.999% of it and turning the studio into a branch of Hell Kitchen Ltd.
FWIW, even modeling lights of my strobes tend to heat up my little studio quite noticeably, +5F..+8F degrees after a couple of hours. I can't even imagine what it would be if I used continuos lighting, at least conventional one (I presume the modern fluorescents are better in this aspect, but I don't have any experience with those).
Well... the only reason I mentioned hot lights is from my lessons in TV work... in which we can make "sunlight" from regular temp. light... but yeah, the heat is very high... most TV people are used to it though...
As for the newer fluorescents... I have tried 56k lamps, although not professional ones, just regular GE 5600k "daylight" from WallyMart and they really don't produce the light that I want... I may have to spend the $$$ for the "pro" 56k lights from BH or Adorama... see if the work better...
Maybe a combo of both... hot lights for the background and strobes for the subject... modeling for testing and strobe for the actual shot???
Miguel www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
no snowy-white fur would help you without the reflector, you'll get shadows, it's a fact of the nature, you *must* fill them in...
Gonna have to opt out of this one then, at least for now. I might grab some styrofoam with our next snowfall and see what I can do, but this is, admittedly, beyond my current abilities. Sorry Nik!
Comments
No reflector to fill the shadows, huh?
Ha, ha, ha, hi, hi, hi, ho, ho, ho
I can go to Mexico now :-)
* I don't think a reflector will ever fit in my overloaded suitcase... no way....
Thank you for the assistance
TravelwaysPhotos.com ...... Facebook
VegasGreatAttractions.com
Travelways.com
Have a great time!
NTWPhotos.com
Member, Livingston County Photographers Group (http://livcophotographers.com)
If responding to a picture I've posted: please, provide constructive criticism. Destructive criticism can go take a flying leap.
If we don't know what could be improved or could have been done differently, we'll never know how to get better at what we're doing.
OK, so it's snowing again and I'll have more chances to get an improved shot. With more subject!
And if I have to, I'll get my 4 year old son to walk out on the lake with me this time instead of running back to the car.
NTWPhotos.com
Member, Livingston County Photographers Group (http://livcophotographers.com)
If responding to a picture I've posted: please, provide constructive criticism. Destructive criticism can go take a flying leap.
If we don't know what could be improved or could have been done differently, we'll never know how to get better at what we're doing.
Thank you NateW, I will consider your suggestions
All the best, and watch the daily photos community for Mexico news
TravelwaysPhotos.com ...... Facebook
VegasGreatAttractions.com
Travelways.com
The assignments never end
TravelwaysPhotos.com ...... Facebook
VegasGreatAttractions.com
Travelways.com
As long as the entries are fresh...
Fresh meaning they were taken with the intent of posting them on here for the assignment. I believe... dang... I still have to redo my entree... haven't had any time this past week.
did it look high key before photoshop? did you remove any shadows? did you molest that little boy? oops sorry you're not Michael Jackson
Of course I had to remove shadows. It's my job as a photographer to achieve a 3D look to a 2D image lol.
I have had to leave some shadows in too, so you could see my subject, or I would have had a completely white document.
Here's a before ...
... and here's the after. Thus making it photoshopped high key so still not sure it qualifies.
I'm off to bed now so will check for replies in the morning. Sweet dreams all.x
I'll remove them if they don't qualify.
Course, then the hood would completely go away, so that's prob not it. Maybe a reflector for some under-chin and neck/hair junction fill? (still say it's pretty good for a high key shot, though. I'm putting this out so I can say I said it was before Nik told us the real answer.
(I'm taking this a chance to see if I really understand what our teacher's trying to teach on this one, so please Nik, tell me/us if this's right! Thank you!)
Nate
NTWPhotos.com
Member, Livingston County Photographers Group (http://livcophotographers.com)
If responding to a picture I've posted: please, provide constructive criticism. Destructive criticism can go take a flying leap.
If we don't know what could be improved or could have been done differently, we'll never know how to get better at what we're doing.
Albeit it's a bit more PS that I was envisioning, it's still pretty darn good!
Woohoo! Thank you Nikolai
Which one? Would you like me to remove one?
And I just found out, the high key BW image, was featured on the home page of Digital Camera Magazine today. I only uploaded it last night! :ivar
any suggestions (aside from lackluster subject choice) appreciated.
- no uniform, wll washed out background
- no low contrast subject
In your scenario, what you would have to do is- get a fairly skinned, prefeably blond, subject dressed in whitish cloth
- go out during the midday (remember, high key needs a lot of light)
- position your subject with his/her back towards the sun against a snow field/slope
- point your camera to the said background (zoom in if you have to so the bg fills the whole frame) and obtain the "bg exposure"
- Adjust the exposure in a way that bg is overexposed by at least 2-3 stops
- Make sure the resulting settings are OK for the subject to be exposed properly (slight overexposure is fine). You will most likely need some "fill", for which you may need to use some sort of reflector, be it a foam board, a white wall, another slope, etc.
- You still may need some PS work done, but this should give you a good base image
HTHor am I trying WAY too hard here?
I'm not even going to attempt to do this right now... but... can you clarify something for me please???
When you say studio lights... are you talking flash or hot lights???
I bet if you use hot lights with a 5600K gel the effect could be done...
But don't quote ME on this...
www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
In my case it's studio strobes (i.e. "flashes"), but it doesn't matter what are they. Neither does color temperature. What does matter is how much light power do they produce. You need a lot of light for the high key.
The difference (and advantage) of the strobes is that they are capable of producing all said amount of energy just in the nick of time, right when you need it, and then go back to sleep the next moment.
"Hot", aka continuos, lights inevitably produce all that energy all the time, thus pretty much wasting 99.999% of it and turning the studio into a branch of Hell Kitchen Ltd.
FWIW, even modeling lights of my strobes tend to heat up my little studio quite noticeably, +5F..+8F degrees after a couple of hours. I can't even imagine what it would be if I used continuos lighting, at least conventional one (I presume the modern fluorescents are better in this aspect, but I don't have any experience with those).
Well... the only reason I mentioned hot lights is from my lessons in TV work... in which we can make "sunlight" from regular temp. light... but yeah, the heat is very high... most TV people are used to it though...
As for the newer fluorescents... I have tried 56k lamps, although not professional ones, just regular GE 5600k "daylight" from WallyMart and they really don't produce the light that I want... I may have to spend the $$$ for the "pro" 56k lights from BH or Adorama... see if the work better...
Maybe a combo of both... hot lights for the background and strobes for the subject... modeling for testing and strobe for the actual shot???
www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
Gonna have to opt out of this one then, at least for now. I might grab some styrofoam with our next snowfall and see what I can do, but this is, admittedly, beyond my current abilities. Sorry Nik!
Now, to go buy a large box of matches....
http://silversx80.smugmug.com/
Olympus E-M5, 12-50mm, 45mm f/1.8
Some legacy OM lenses and an OM-10
Well, you gotta do what you gotta do
http://silversx80.smugmug.com/
Olympus E-M5, 12-50mm, 45mm f/1.8
Some legacy OM lenses and an OM-10