Portrait Photography

Dooginfif20 · March 7, 2009

So I have been shooting digital for about a year now and for the most part I have been shooting mostly scenery. My family has been asking my to take pictures of them for a while now but I have been hesitant because I want to have all the equipment I need. I currently have a D90 and 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 VR. I am looking at picking up the 50mm f/1.4G here soon, but I would like to also pick up an external flash. I have been looking at the SB-600 and SB-800 but for pricing reason I might choose for the cheaper since I dont know the differences between the two or what I should be looking for. The lens I am for the most part set on and am looking for to picking up once it is off of back order. I had recently thought about the 70-200 from Nikkor, Sigma and Tamron, but after more looking into it a lot of people suggested the 50mm or 85mm. Due to the sensor cropping I opted for the 50mm for now.

After all of that my questions are this. What lenses does everyone else recommend? What type of external flash does everyone recommend? Is there anything else that I should consider picking up? I was looking at the Gary Fong defuser as another optional pick up as well. At this point with having very little experience at portrait photography I am all ears and ready to learn! Any comment good or bad is greatly appreciated!

sweet caroline · March 7, 2009

I've been using the sb600 with the Fong lightsphere with some decent results. I'm looking to ugrade to the sb800 soon, but I then I can use both flashes simultaneously. The 50mm lens is a good place to start, I think.

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Dooginfif20 wrote:

After all of that my questions are this.

What lenses does everyone else recommend?
I would recommend the Siggy 17-70 f2.8-4.5 and the Siggy 70-200f2.8...........the 70-210 (now it is just 200) for over 25+ yrs
What type of external flash does everyone recommend?
I would recommend the best flash you can afford from one of these companies.......Sigma, Sunpak, Metz or from Nikon like the SB800......................

Is there anything else that I should consider picking up?

A good but inexpensive flash bracket......Custom Brackets Pro-M or if less money then a stroboframe RB/RT.....amin thing is to make sure the camera flips not the flash.............

A tripod of course and get the best you can afford......I really like my 4 section Giottos (MT 9180-no longer made) and my Giottos monopod (P-Pod)

Also save your money for a decent incident light meter (Sekonic L-358 is a good one for portraits and weddings)......it will save your butt one day when it really counts

I was looking at the Gary Fong defuser as another optional pick up as well.
I use the original softbox from LumiQuest....... as it was the only one that allowed meto use it onmore than 1 type of flash.......i have used the fong type and do not like them as they are heavier and will not fold flat for storage................MY BIGGEST GRIPE IS THE FONG STYLE WILL ONLY FIT THE EXACT FLASH MODEL it was made for......ones like the LumiQuest will fit nearly all shoe and handle mount flases.............

At this point with having very little experience at portrait photography I am all ears and ready to learn! Any comment good or bad is greatly appreciated!

answers above in large bold print

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art you mentioned a flash bracket. How important are these? I have the 580 EX II and 420 EX, and am starting to try and learn some lighting techniques. Is a flash bracket something I should seriously get like a week ago, or something that's just one of those nice things to have? Is this what you are talking about? I'm not sure what you mean by

Art Scott wrote:

amin thing is to make sure the camera flips not the flash...

. Is that curved thing like a track that the camera rotates to portrait mode while the bracket stays in the same place? I found a few of the StroboFrame ones, but didn't see the "RB/RT" you mentioned. These are A LOT more in my price range. But which one to buy? How much is the quality difference between the two brands also... And...on-top of the bracket, I'm guessing you'll need to get some sort of hotshoe cord to attach the flash to the hotshoe correct?

Also, I've noticed with the diffuser I have for my 580 that it gives it more of a yellow tint to the photo (granted that's only on my LCD and I'm shooting in RAW so that can be fixed). It is a SBM Supreme Light Diffuser. It was pretty much the cheapest one I could find at that point. But now that I'm getting into lighting more, I'd like to get better equip. In regards to the softbox from LumiQuest, would you suggest the mini or the regular? Should I get the regular for my 580 and the mini for my 420? Regular for both?

Thank you.

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Art you mentioned a flash bracket.
How important are these?
I find them indispensable for people shooting (or pets)......I would not attempt a portrait or wedding (especially) without one.

I have the 580 EX II and 420 EX, and am starting to try and learn some lighting techniques. Is a flash bracket something I should seriously get like a week ago, or something that's just one of those nice things to have?
SHOULD ALREADY HAVE HAD...................

Is this what you are talking about?
yes

I'm not sure what you mean by . Is that curved thing like a track that the camera rotates to portrait mode while the bracket stays in the same place?
CORRECT

I found a few of the StroboFrame ones, but didn't see the "RB/RT" you mentioned. These are A LOT more in my price range. But which one to buy?

The STROBOFRAME PRO RL ..... dang names are changed by come companies like socks for a lot of people:D

How much is the quality difference between the two brands also...
not tons of quality.....I have used STROBOFRAMES OFR OVER 25+yrs.....but really like the idea of the feet on the Custom Bracket Pro M........

And...on-top of the bracket, I'm guessing you'll need to get some sort of hotshoe cord to attach the flash to the hotshoe correct?
I have used Nikon cords and also 3rd party cords and really dislike having them wrapped around the brack and they seem to just quit working(for me) without giving any signs of going bad.....so now I use RF triggers from ebay.......I just use a rubber band ot hold the reciever out of my way....have had no probs since I started using just a little over 2 yrs ago...........

In regards to the softbox from LumiQuest, would you suggest the mini or the regular?
I use the regular (used to be called the ORIGINAL)

Should I get the regular for my 580 and the mini for my 420? Regular for both?
Just the larger one.....it used a rubber/velcro wrap around the flash head and the softbox sticks to that with velcro......I use them because they fold flat,I only lose ~1 stop of light and with the rubber/velcro band I can fit to any of my flashes (Konica Minolta 5600hs, sunpak 622's, Vivatar 285hv.....)

Thank you.
You're very welcome..........

answers above in bold................................................

Scrubs · March 8, 2009

don't feel you have to hold out for expensive equipment.
to get started right away why not just by an old screw fit manual
prime with adapter -such as a 50mm pentacon that will stop down to 1.8
for around 20$ they are amazing value for money!

and any old strobe with manual control.. you can't go wrong
with a vivitar 283, 285... they all pretty much do the same thing
if you're not worried about all the gubbins. couple with some
cheap shoot through umbrellas, brackets you will be good to go
probably all set for around $250 max including, lights, lens, umbrellas..

going the cheap route doesent nessascarrilly mean you are gonna sacrifice quality...

there is a good list of stuff you may wanna consider here
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
such as portable stands, brackets etc...

Bottom line is you don't have to go out and spend a fortune
on a flash such as the 580ex etc.. if you are gonna be using
them 'off camera' and/or not utilising the extras you are paying for.

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Scrubs wrote:

don't feel you have to hold out for expensive equipment.
to get started right away why not just by an old screw fit manual
prime with adapter -such as a 50mm pentacon that will stop down to 1.8
for around 20$ they are amazing value for money!
Penticon lenses are really good and with the m49 screw adapter yes they will work........sort of......99% of the systems may NOT show focus confirmation or meter.....hence another need for a handheld incident meter.

and any old strobe with manual control.. you can't go wrong
with a vivitar 283, 285... they all pretty much do the same thing
if you're not worried about all the gubbins.
This is far from correct.......even the NEW Vivatar 283/85hv require a SAFE SYNC device or the spike of the flash can destroy your digital SLR or even a point and shoot......if you're going to spend $50-100 on a safe sync then you might as well be using a RF strobe trigger I linked to above..........you cannot plug directly into 99% of the studio strobesfor the same reason......I blew a ProSumer Point and shoot when the Konica Minolta A2 first came out by hooking directly to a Vivatar 283........

couple with some
cheap shoot through umbrellas, brackets you will be good to go
probably all set for around $250 max including, lights, lens, umbrellas..

going the cheap route doesent nessascarrilly mean you are gonna sacrifice quality...
SOMETIMES

there is a good list of stuff you may wanna consider here
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
such as portable stands, brackets etc...

Bottom line is you don't have to go out and spend a fortune
on a flash such as the 580ex etc.. if you are gonna be using
them 'off camera' and/or not utilising the extras you are paying for.
Correct you do not have to spend a fortune, but warrantied used or refurb is most of the time better than going the cheap manual old stuff route....
For a beginner going the cheap route is not always the best as one needs to know what to expect from the cheap stuff.......I also have tele lenses from the Kiev line of Medium format cameras that will be adapted to my DSLR via screw mount adapters but I already know that I will have set the aperture manually, and that focus confirm and meter will not work (properly at the least)..............

Rebuttles above in bold

ziggy53 · March 8, 2009

Dooginfif20,

Portraiture is a whole "class" of photography and may require multiple lenses for different situations and intents. It also includes careful control of lighting and background.

For a quick introduction look at:

http://photo.net/learn/portraits/
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Portrait-photography--a-practical-guide-4670
http://digital-photography-school.com/portrait-photography-tips
http://www.filmlessphotos.ca/IndexPage.htm

As for lenses on a Nikon crop camera I would suggest the:

AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D for full-length
AF Nikkor 85mm f/1.8D for head-and-shoulder
AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED for group shots

Dooginfif20 · March 8, 2009

Wow what a great response! So many comments I dont know where to begin!

Art thanks again for the always informative information! I had really looked at the Sigma 70-200 2.8 and the Tamron 70-200 2.8, but after looking around, talking to more people, and seeing examples of the 50mm 1.4 and 85mm 1.8 I was drawn in to the look and feel of those images. At this point the first lens I am going to probably purchase is going to be the 50mm 1.4G. Its in my price range and has nothing but great reviews. I am unsure about the advantage of the flash bracket. I know that the SB-600 and 800 rotate and point and almost any direction so I am not sure if it is a must have right now. I will look into it more so I appreciate the advice on that! As for the tripod this is something I have been looking into for a while now. The tripod I have works but to me is very limited and if I switch to shooting more of a variety of photography I know I am going to have to upgrade. I am glad you brought up the light meter. I am totally behind when it comes to lighting so I dont know what the advantage of having one is. What is it used for? Is it to ensure that my light metering is correct if I am shooting in manual? Please feel free to explain this to me! The Fong diffuser I had seen someone use before and thought it turned out good results. As for the not being able to fold it up I totally agree with you there! That was one reason why I hadnt purchased it yet because I wasnt sure if I would have room for it in my bag o tricks! All in all Art you do nothing but provide help for me all the time and I appreciate your comments!

Scrubs thanks for your comments as well! As I see your point with not having to have the most expensive gear out there. To me it is an investment so I feel I get out of it what I put into it. Now does that mean that Nikkor and Nikon stuff is always going to be better? Not exactly. When I first started looking at lenses I was almost set on the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 and that puppy was $1800. Now after much search I realized at some point I am not going to see a return on that when I can purchase the Tamron or Sigma for less then half that amount. I realize that the Nikkor lens is pretter amazing, but I agree with you that the most expensive isnt always going to be the best, so I turned it down and focused on the other two. For that specific range I just need to decide what is more important fast AF or quiet AF.

Ziggy you are always a wealth of knowledge! Thank you for the links! They were full of a ton of information and since I dont have too many friends out here who are into photography my learning comes from here and other online sources. The 50mm f/1.4D is great but with the G just coming out and a slight increase in price I have decided to go with the G. The 85mm f/1.8D is on my list after the 50mm. Surprisingly nobody had ever brought up the 17-55 f/2.8 but I think I am going to have to look into that! Do you have any words of wisdom on flashes and such?

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

answers above in bold................................................

Art Scott wrote:

Rebuttles above in bold

Art, thank you so much for your outstanding replies. Great information.

So, what is SO NECESSARY about having a flash bracket? What exactly do they accomplish? Also, what do you mean by feet on the custom bracket PRO-M? I'm looking at the photo, and can't seem to see any "feet" on there. Explain please?

All said and done...if I don't have any money, but will be doing a few weddings this spring-fall, do I NEED the Custom Bracket PRO-M (@ $280 on B&H), or will the StroboFrame last me as long as I need it to last and perform all functions I will need it to perform?

I finally found the PRO-RL ($144 @ B&H) you mentioned, would this work just as fine or no? Quite the price difference between the PRO-RL and the Flip Bracket ($73 @ B&H). I also can't seem to tell how exactly the flash mounts to the PRO-RL. Where as the PRO-M and Flip Bracket both have what looks to be a "hot shoe" of some sort attachment for the flash.

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Also, would something like this work for the hot shoe cord? Or should I do something like this? I know you showed me the Ebay wireless transmitter, but I'm kind of particular to not third party stuff, especially when I would need to get adapter after adapter to make it work when the Canon specific one will just work.

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Art, thank you so much for your outstanding replies. Great information.

So, what is SO NECESSARY about having a flash bracket? What exactly do they accomplish? Also, what do you mean by feet on the custom bracket PRO-M? I'm looking at the photo, and can't seem to see any "feet" on there. Explain please?
1-gets flash off of the hotshoe and above the lens more .....thus pushing the shadows back and down and not just straight back onto background......if using a diffuser it everything up off the camera.....LOOKS VERY PRO........
The link you gave me to CB site showed the pro m....if you look at the bottom there is a piece of metal(black) sticking out from under the left side of camera coming at you (the viewer).....

All said and done...if I don't have any money, but will be doing a few weddings this spring-fall, do I NEED the Custom Bracket PRO-M (@ $280 on B&H), or will the StroboFrame last me as long as I need it to last and perform all functions I will need it to perform?

In all the years I have had mine it has never failed....will it last as long, do not know for sure......mine has lasted and i really work mine......I am cleaning out a lot of my equipment to buy new for tax purposes so in the next few days I'll be adding to my FOR SALE thread

I finally found the PRO-RL ($144 @ B&H) you mentioned, would this work just as fine or no?
YES -

Quite the price difference between the PRO-RL and the Flip Bracket ($73 @ B&H). I also can't seem to tell how exactly the flash mounts to the PRO-RL. Where as the PRO-M and Flip Bracket both have what looks to be a "hot shoe" of some sort attachment for the flash.
The Pro-RL needs and accessory called a flash adapter....it is below the PRO-RL At BH....cost 14.95.....I do not have one for mine as I was using mostly handle mount flashes (sunpak 622) and I have a flash adapter quick release and a handle mount flash adapter (~$45for both)......

answers in bold above

EDIT: i forgot....most modern new flash units come with a plastic foot that has a 1/4-20 threaded hole in it......then all you need is a 1/4-20 thumb screw and you save 14.95.......this is how I use my Konica Minolta 5600HS flash , since minolta and now Sony have a very propitiatory shoe on their flashes.......

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Also, would something like this work for the hot shoe cord?
It will work.....but as I stated earlier they have a tendancy to quit on me.....so I went to these 16 channel triggers........not only are they inexpensive ( i have 5 receivers and 3 transmmitters) they have been reliable and being radio frequency they are omni directional......the canon one linked below is an IR beam type......so I do not know ifit will work with the flash directly above it......the ones I linked to from ebay will work as a matter of fact the person who recommended them to me was a canonite from Austrailia and he is pretty rough on his equipment also........as for an extra adapters the shoe adapter shown in the photo for an xtra $5 is all you should need.....my flash has a pc connector so I did not need that adapter.....the other adapter that caome in the kit allow me to connect to sunpak 622 and also my Paul C Buff White Lightning Studio Strobes.........

Or should I do something like this? I know you showed me the Ebay wireless transmitter, but I'm kind of particular to not third party stuff, especially when I would need to get adapter after adapter to make it work when the Canon specific one will just work.
Included above

in bold above

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

So I could use that PC cord for the 580 EX II, and for the 420 I would need the hot shoe adapter shown in that link you gave me for the 16 channel trigger correct? So the transmitter mounts to the hot shoe on my camera, receiver plugs in to the flash (580) some how... How does the PC cord connect to whatever its supposed to connect to?

Sorry, I just seem to be brain dead right now on how this kit actually connects my camera to my flash. I'm guessing the kit only connects the camera to 580, then 580 wireless to 420 as it is now. Correct?

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

So I could use that PC cord for the 580 EX II, and for the 420 I would need the hot shoe adapter shown in that link you gave me for the 16 channel trigger correct? So the transmitter mounts to the hot shoe on my camera, receiver plugs in to the flash (580) some how... How does the PC cord connect to whatever its supposed to connect to?

Sorry, I just seem to be brain dead right now on how this kit actually connects my camera to my flash. I'm guessing the kit only connects the camera to 580, then 580 wireless to 420 as it is now. Correct?

Is there a pc connection on your flash units anywhere.....I finally read my instruction book on my KM5600HS and there it was under a black rubber plug.....very hard to see even with bright lights.......if not then you need the shoe adapter shown in the photos from ebay.....
So the tramsmitter slides onto the hot shoe......then if you have a pc connector the pc cable connects to pc connector on flash (or shoe adapter) and also plugs into the receiver.....then i just bundle it neatly and rubber band it in place out of the way.........

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

Is there a pc connection on your flash units anywhere.....I finally read my instruction book on my KM5600HS and there it was under a black rubber plug.....very hard to see even with bright lights.......if not then you need the shoe adapter shown in the photos from ebay.....
So the tramsmitter slides onto the hot shoe......then if you have a pc connector the pc cable connects to pc connector on flash (or shoe adapter) and also plugs into the receiver.....then i just bundle it neatly and rubber band it in place out of the way.........

The 580 EX II does have a PC connector. Same thing, under a rubber plug.

I guess where my confusion is is on the reciever the only thing on it is the male 1/4" plug, with the adapter female 1/4" to male 3.5mm, the pc cord only has a male 3.5mm. So how does the male 3.5mm on the PC cord attach to the male 3.5mm on the receiver cord?

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

The 580 EX II does have a PC connector. Same thing, under a rubber plug.

I guess where my confusion is is on the reciever the only thing on it is the male 1/4" plug, with the adapter female 1/4" to male 3.5mm, the pc cord only has a male 3.5mm. So how does the male 3.5mm on the PC cord attach to the male 3.5mm on the receiver cord?

They do not show the pc connector on the receiver, but it is there........it is on the back side, just below where the 1/4" mono plug goes into the case.

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

They do not show the pc connector on the receiver, but it is there........it is on the back side, just below where the 1/4" mono plug goes into the case.

GOTCHYA! That makes SO much more sense. Thank you. Well this sounds like the right way to go.

So, to sum it up. Things that should be REQUIRED to shoot people or a wedding:
Flash Bracket + Flash Mount Adapter
RF Trigger
Diffuser - One for each flash?

Then I'm guessing some sort of stand for the second flash? Should I use my tripod for the second flash (at a 45* angle to subject and camera right?) and hand hold my camera, or put my camera on tripod and get another type of light stand for the second flash (Maybe a monopod with the feet then that extend out to make it able to stand on it's own)? Or something like this possibly?

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

GOTCHYA! That makes SO much more sense. Thank you. Well this sounds like the right way to go.

So, to sum it up. Things that should be REQUIRED to shoot people or a wedding:
Flash Bracket + Flash Mount Adapter
yup........If either one of your flashes came with a funky shaped stand with the 1/4-20 threaded hole in the botom of it, then you can save the ~$15 for the adapter....

RF Trigger
YUP

Diffuser - One for each flash?
DAS CORRECT

Then I'm guessing some sort of stand for the second flash? Should I use my tripod for the second flash (at a 45* angle to subject and camera right?) and hand hold my camera, or put my camera on tripod and get another type of light stand for the second flash (Maybe a monopod with the feet then that extend out to make it able to stand on it's own)?
not recommended a giottos P-Pod is cheaper tah that plus a monopod.....yeck.....:D
Or something like this possibly?
tHIS is best idea of the 2

ABOVE AND BELOW:D

I would get a diffuser for each flash as time goes on.....start with 1 and learn your 1 light lighting then move on up.....as for a stand.......I wouod go with an inexpensive light stand.....I have a monopod with the legs and even tho I love it for what I got it for wild life and nature when the tri would not work I would not recommend using it for a light stand or a camera stand to leave unattended for any reason:D......bad things happen to good people:D:D...................inexpensive lightstands...AMVONA off ebay makes eome decent ones....there are others or an old cheap velbon or vivatar tripod that will extend to 6 or 7' including the center column............I recommend a light stand tho....with a flash mount bracket like this one LINKED HERE....this comes with an umbrella for ~$20.....it just attaches to the top of the light stand....best price I have seen.....my bracket was $30 alone all by it self......

Scrubs · March 8, 2009

Dooginfif20 wrote:

Scrubs thanks for your comments as well! As I see your point with not having to have the most expensive gear out there. To me it is an investment so I feel I get out of it what I put into it. Now does that mean that Nikkor and Nikon stuff is always going to be better? Not exactly. When I first started looking at lenses I was almost set on the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 and that puppy was $1800. Now after much search I realized at some point I am not going to see a return on that when I can purchase the Tamron or Sigma for less then half that amount. I realize that the Nikkor lens is pretter amazing, but I agree with you that the most expensive isnt always going to be the best, so I turned it down and focused on the other two. For that specific range I just need to decide what is more important fast AF or quiet AF.

No Worries mate, I only mentioned the old style primes because IMO
they are increddible value for money, I shoot on a Hasselblad and have
4 extremely nice (and pricey) Carl zeiss lenses for it and the old 50mm pentacon gets just as much use when mounted on my canon as any of the others. Sure there is no focus assist etc.. but there isent on the zeis lenses either.

An incident light meter (or flash meter most likely in your case) is what you will need to measure your strobes with as it is impossible to do so with the ambient (reflected) light meter built in to your camera.

The crude principle is that you would (for instance) enter in the
the shutter speed you wanted to shoot at and the film speed (iso)
you were using. then you would point the meter at either the light source
or camera (depending on how many lights you intended using) and it will tell you the aperture to use for correct exposure. this way you could
set the other light for example 2 stops less to create shadow detail etc..

I have a sekonic 758 - they are pretty pricey but I have no regrets
and love it. It has a few bells and whistles that can read and display
the ratios of mixed ambient and flash light and also doubles as a great
reflected 1 degree spot meter among a few other things.
But like I said it's pricey, decide whether you want the extra bells and whistles, if not just go for a lower specced model.
You generally can't go much wrong with a sekonic.

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

[/b]

ABOVE AND BELOW:D

I would get a diffuser for each flash as time goes on.....start with 1 and learn your 1 light lighting then move on up.....as for a stand.......I wouod go with an inexpensive light stand.....I have a monopod with the legs and even tho I love it for what I got it for wild life and nature when the tri would not work I would not recommend using it for a light stand or a camera stand to leave unattended for any reason:D......bad things happen to good people:D:D...................inexpensive lightstands...AMVONA off ebay makes eome decent ones....there are others or an old cheap velbon or vivatar tripod that will extend to 6 or 7' including the center column............I recommend a light stand tho....with a flash mount bracket like this one LINKED HERE....this comes with an umbrella for ~$20.....it just attaches to the top of the light stand....best price I have seen.....my bracket was $30 alone all by it self......

Yeah I have one foot stand that I got with my 580, but obviously fits on the 420 I just got used that didn't have a foot stand. So I've got my 420 on that foot stand, hence the need for the adapter for the 580 to mount to the flash bracket.

I have a Manfrotto Monopod, but that three leg adapter is actually more expensive on its own than the lighting stand I linked you.

Ok. I think I've got it now. Thanks SO much. Now I just need to get it all, practice with it, and practice some more.

Art Scott · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Yeah I have one foot stand that I got with my 580, but obviously fits on the 420 I just got used that didn't have a foot stand. So I've got my 420 on that foot stand, hence the need for the adapter for the 580 to mount to the flash bracket.

I have a Manfrotto Monopod, but that three leg adapter is actually more expensive on its own than the lighting stand I linked you.

Ok. I think I've got it now. Thanks SO much. Now I just need to get it all, practice with it, and practice some more.

Glad i could help........oh seach BH for another canon foot and you might be surprised as to the money you can save...sometimes......most I have seen run about~$5.......

Good luck.

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Ok. So now on top of the:
Light Stand + Flash Mount Bracket
Flash Bracket + Hot Shoe Adapter
RF Trigger
Diffuser

I need to get a light meter? I have no idea even what this does exactly or how to use it. How NECESSARY is it? Remember, I don't have any money, so the less I can get away with the better right now.

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

Glad i could help........oh seach BH for another canon foot and you might be surprised as to the money you can save...sometimes......most I have seen run about~$5.......

Good luck.

Awesome. Great tip. That would replace the Hot Shoe Adapter piece for the flash bracket correct?

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Art Scott wrote:

oh seach BH for another canon foot and you might be surprised as to the money you can save...sometimes......most I have seen run about~$5.......

Good luck.

I can't seem to find one on BH, eBay, or Canon's website. Any ideas?

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Ok. So my camera has a PC port on it. Can I not just use a PC to PC cord and connect the flash straight to the camera then mount the flash on the flash bracket? This way I wouldn't have to buy the RF trigger?

Scrubs · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Ok. So my camera has a PC port on it. Can I not just use a PC to PC cord and connect the flash straight to the camera then mount the flash on the flash bracket? This way I wouldn't have to buy the RF trigger?

Yes

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Scrubs wrote:

Yes

Okay, so my other concern then is Art was saying that he's had failure issues with the hot shoe sync cords, would I be encountering the same issues with the PC to PC cord or would it be as reliable as the RF trigger, or more, or less?

Scrubs · March 8, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Okay, so my other concern then is Art was saying that he's had failure issues with the hot shoe sync cords, would I be encountering the same issues with the PC to PC cord or would it be as reliable as the RF trigger, or more, or less?

Hi, the only failures I have encountered with the hot shoe syncs are their flimsiness i.e the plastic case likes to break off
and if this does it can stress the wire contacts if not sorted but they are very easy to repair (not much going on inside) and easy to prevent
doing so by just adding strong tape round the seams so they won't come apart. As for misfires... I would guess you would be
getting considerably more with an ebay wireless trigger.

PC sync cord from your camera directly into the sync socket that is on your 580 will be very reliable. much more so than the ebay triggers
Then you can fire off the 420 and any other flash that doesent have a sync socket with an optical slave like this for around 8$ or cheaper.
Just one wire to carry around then.

http://shashinki.com/shop/images/SGL-SYK3-BOTTOM.jpg

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

Scrubs wrote:

Hi, the only failures I have encountered with the hot shoe syncs are their flimsiness i.e the plastic case likes to break off
and if this does it can stress the wire contacts if not sorted but they are very easy to repair (not much going on inside) and easy to prevent
doing so by just adding strong tape round the seams so they won't come apart. As for misfires... I would guess you would be
getting considerably more with an ebay wireless trigger.

PC sync cord from your camera directly into the sync socket that is on your 580 will be very reliable. much more so than the ebay triggers
Then you can fire off the 420 and any other flash that doesent have a sync socket with an optical slave like this for around 8$ or cheaper.
Just one wire to carry around then.

Couldn't I just use the IR capabilities of the 580 EX II as a master flash to fire the 420? Kinda confused on the BOLD section above I guess... Are saying if I wanted to use the 420 (or any other flash) as my master since it doesn't have a PC sync cord? Why would I want to do that though when the 580 is a better flash and can wirelessly trigger the 420?

Candid Arts · March 8, 2009

It was hard to find a male to male PC sync cord! Everything was male to female. Anyways...this would work right or this?

Portrait Photography

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