Portrait Photography

Scott_Quier · March 9, 2009

Yes this is true, and makes sense. So to fix the under/over expose, the light meter will do that?

Not if you are shooting E-TTL. Only trial and error (and experience) with your equipment.

Inside that makes sense, seems more sensible. Outside on the other hand it would seem to change too much as clouds pass, shadow's are cast, sun is setting, etc...

Opinions differ. Try it. An ounce of "experiment" is worth a pound of "opinion."

So basically I should just go back to using full manual mode...? How do I meter for the flash though when it only fires when I fire it?

Shooting E-TTL, there is not metering (ala Sekonic L-358) of the flash. You can/should(?) meter the ambient incident and/or background but after that, it's all trial and error and chimping. Some will say outdoors that Av works well when the subject is backlit. I like to get a reading for the sky, use that in my manual settings and adjust the power of my flash for the foreground/subject. Again, opinions and methods differ. Experiment with your equipment and see what works for you.

So I should just try it out. Another thing I read while reading my manual on the 580 in the wireless section, was that if the slave flash is facing away from master flash and line of sight cannot be obtained, then use the swivel and/or articulating head to turn the IR receiver towards the 580 while the flash head is still pointed in the direction you want. That work?

Of course. Would Canon lie to you? Seriously, yes that is perfered practice - keep the two flashes facing each other to the extent possible. After that, you can bounce the IR signals.

I suppose this has where my problem has been, in which I posted in another thread somewhere... My photos tend to be a little underexposed. Even when my Exposure Comp is set to 0 ev. Haven't yet figured out why. So bringing the exposure back up, in combination with a higher ISO, produces horrible results (on screen, haven't test printed). The extra light power it takes though is something I hadn't thought of. I suppose I just need to work on my exposure, figure out why it underexposes stuff. (what metering mode do you use normally for weddings? Spot? the weddings I've done thus far have been evaluative, maybe a reason why?)

Again, I don't flash at weddings (or at least not indoors). Receptions - I use the evaluative. Any in-camera metering is only a best guess on the part of the camera anyway and the averaging seems to work best. If you spot meter and you happen to get the grooms tux - you have a hugely over-exposed shot. Like-wise - spotting off the bride's gown and you get a hugely under-exposed shot. The average seems to work out - on average. Then, chimp and adjust the FEC to taste.

By portraits I'm guessing that's like studio type stuff. Which I currently do none of. So the set-up previously mentioned in post 47 should be about perfect for what I'm doing?

Perfect - only you can decide that. And, that'll take time and experience with your equipment.

One of the employees recommended the Gary Fong Lightsphere over the softbox. What do you guy's think about the lightsphere vs a bounce card I can make for like $5?

Again - opinions vary on this as well. I have one and don't use it. It chews through batteries like they are free. On the other hand, if you have lots of close walls, it does produce a nice even light. Again, you already know what I use for an on-flash light modifier.

First guy I talked to said NO WAY on a flash bracket. Heavy, and he'd just rather hand hold the flash where he wants it. Thoughts? The second guy I talked to said definitely use a flash bracket for weddings and the like... Hmmm...

Again, opinion. The bracket will help you avoid the shadows seen in pictures in this thread.

The first guy also told me that the IR signal from the 580 to trigger the 420 WILL NOT work in bright sunlight. Thoughts? He suggested something like the Pocket Wizard. Which is beneficial not only because it's RF versus IR, but it can travel up to 1600', and you can remotely pop the flashes for your light meter to read, which is nice. But no way I can afford a Pocket Wizard set up right now. Uhmmm...I think that's about it for right now, although I'm sure in 5 minutes I'll have more. Haha.

Tell that to Pathfinder

As for the PW - yes that will work, but will limit you to 1/250 for a shutter speed.

Nikolai · March 9, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

So I went over to my local camera shop ....

I have only two things to say about his:

First: never take advice from people who are interested in selling you the very thing have questions about

Second: see rule #1.

HTH

Qarik · March 9, 2009

The vital diffderence between the sb600 and 800 to me is that the 800 can act as a master flash. But since you have ta d90, that can act as master with it's unboard flash. Get the sb600. Get the fong diffuser.

With these 2 and the 30mm 1.4, you are well on your way. You will see major leap and bounds impriovement in your portraits/peoiple photogrpshy with these simple tools. The next step would be umbrella, soft boxes, refelctors,etc but that is another quantum leap in expenditures.

Candid Arts · March 9, 2009

Nikolai wrote:

I have only two things to say about his:

First: never take advice from people who are interested in selling you the very thing have questions about

Second: see rule #1.

HTH

The first guy was actually telling me NOT to buy the flash bracket...

But I know what you mean, and that is generally how it is.

Rule number 2 though I entirely agree with...it always happens that way. Not so much number 1, but most certainly #2...

Nikolai · March 9, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

The first guy was actually telling me NOT to buy the flash bracket...

But I know what you mean, and that is generally how it is.

Rule number 2 though I entirely agree with...it always happens that way. Not so much number 1, but most certainly #2...

I still would like to make my primary point very clear: studio portraiture gear (strobes, softboxes, ligthstands, lightmeter, full manual, etc) and event/pj photography gear (bracket, speedlite, mini-diffuser/reflector, xTTL and a lot of auto modes) have very little in common. Techniques are often quite different, too: in studio, you build the shot; in PJ, you hunt for it.

Dooginfif20 · March 9, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Huh? Sb600/800 D90? I have a 580 EX II and 420 EX, and a canon 50D, and a 50mm 1.4. Did you post in the wrong thread?

But it's all relative. You prefer the fong diffuser as well?

He was referring to me the one who started this post and then had someone take it over with their questions

Dooginfif20 · March 9, 2009

Qarik wrote:

The vital diffderence between the sb600 and 800 to me is that the 800 can act as a master flash. But since you have ta d90, that can act as master with it's unboard flash. Get the sb600. Get the fong diffuser.

With these 2 and the 30mm 1.4, you are well on your way. You will see major leap and bounds impriovement in your portraits/peoiple photogrpshy with these simple tools. The next step would be umbrella, soft boxes, refelctors,etc but that is another quantum leap in expenditures.

Thanks for your response! I have contacted some local photographers to see if I could get some shadow time and see how to do it in person. I have really been looking at the SB-600 and then if I want to later I can upgrade to the SB-800 or 900 and use the 600 and a slave. Now I cant wait to start doing some more shooting!

Candid Arts · March 9, 2009

Nikolai wrote:

I still would like to make my primary point very clear: studio portraiture gear (strobes, softboxes, ligthstands, lightmeter, full manual, etc) and event/pj photography gear (bracket, speedlite, mini-diffuser/reflector, xTTL and a lot of auto modes) have very little in common. Techniques are often quite different, too: in studio, you build the shot; in PJ, you hunt for it.

Point taken. It sounds like for what I'm wanting to do, I'm on the right track. Thanks Nikolai.

Nikolai · March 9, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

Point taken. It sounds like for what I'm wanting to do, I'm on the right track. Thanks Nikolai.

"we're here to help"

Candid Arts · March 10, 2009

Nikolai wrote:

"we're here to help"

Awww...Thanks...

Oh and

Candid Arts · March 15, 2009

So I actually remembered that I can borrow stuff from my school for free. So I borrowed a L-358 light meter for the weekend. In playing around with it, I realized that I have entirely no clue how to use it. I put it in the light, get a reading. Take a test shot with the camera's metering system, then take a shot from what the L-358 told me to do. It was entirely way blown out... Pretty much no matter the lighting (I have two lamps with an umbrella on each in my dining room) it's saying I need a ridiculously slow shutter speed even at a f/2.8 or f/4. Which is blowing everything out. I need to find a manual online somewhere I think and do some reading because I think I'm using it wrong...I dunno.

Scott_Quier · March 15, 2009

Candid Arts wrote:

So I actually remembered that I can borrow stuff from my school for free. So I borrowed a L-358 light meter for the weekend. In playing around with it, I realized that I have entirely no clue how to use it. I put it in the light, get a reading. Take a test shot with the camera's metering system, then take a shot from what the L-358 told me to do. It was entirely way blown out... Pretty much no matter the lighting (I have two lamps with an umbrella on each in my dining room) it's saying I need a ridiculously slow shutter speed even at a f/2.8 or f/4. Which is blowing everything out. I need to find a manual online somewhere I think and do some reading because I think I'm using it wrong...I dunno.

Here's the Sekonic User's Manual. That should give you a start.

Portrait Photography

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