been to 2 races in a row with a 3rd coming. starting to get a little more comfortable with the saturation. it seems in really good light you want it neutral, and if its gets a little cloudy you can bump it a notch. I found that with certain dirt in good light it can get over done so its been fun learning.
I also broke out the SB900 flash when the clouds started getting involved so I was ready for theor little tricks.
I got some nice shots late day shooting this jump. Probably my best jump shots using manual focus so far. Most of them were taking the same line on the jump and it was easy enough to spot focus and just let them roll by, even though for some reason I'd keep re-focusing..
I've thought of taking a little marker or flag to stick in the ground to help spot focus, even a helium balloon but I suppose you'd look a little strange.
seasons almost over, one more weekend. hvan't posted much lately. a few weeks ago a co worker tried to hammer into my head the relationship between F stop and focus so I vowed to shoot at F10 or higher the next time out, which was 2 weeks ago at an open practice. some color correction by smugmug on this one but was overall happy with the better clarity of the higher F stops.
seasons almost over, one more weekend. hvan't posted much lately. a few weeks ago a co worker tried to hammer into my head the relationship between F stop and focus so I vowed to shoot at F10 or higher the next time out, which was 2 weeks ago at an open practice. some color correction by smugmug on this one but was overall happy with the better clarity of the higher F stops.
I want a fast lens.
Your friend couldn't be more wrong!!!!!!!! He obviously isn't a MX or sports photog. Sure using a higher number Fstop will get you better focus, but that means that the background will also be more in focus. That is a big no-no in MX photography. You want a clean - out of focus background so your subject really stands out. I've shot many Pro SX's and a MX race. I shoot for an MX magazine and have had some instruction from several long time Pro's. So, I'm not just guessing here or giving you my opinion. Most Pro's will shoot from F/2.8 to F/5.6.
There is one exception however, if you are trying a technique called panning which you somewhat did here. When you are trying to really slow your shutter speed down to show movement, then you use a high F-stop, but only because this allows you to slow the shutter and not have overeposed shots.
Look at the background in these pics, it's not good at all. Sure, they are good snapshot pics, but if you want to better your skills and become a good MX photog, you gotta also work on your backgrounds as well as your subjects.
Look at the background in these pics, it's not good at all. .
as always I value your input. just curious are you referring to the composition or make up of the backround, or the fact that it is relatively clear due to the high F stop.
the 512 feet flying shot was taken from the checkered flag platform and was really the only vantage point for this particular jump.
It was sunny when I left the house and clouded up as soon as I got there. so my nice SB900 Flash did me no good at home. Another stupid lesson learned. Don't buy equipment and leave it home!
Tomorrow is the last race of the year, sunny skies and 50's, and Jimmy Weinert will be there so we'll stalk him as well.
I got you but its been somewhat frustrating when my D40 pics were generally crisper than my D300 pics.
I used the kit 55-200 lens with the D40 and the 18-200 with the 300 and while when I really get a good one with the 300 its better than a good one with the D40 in general the D40 pics were crisper. I don't know if the 18-200 is all wrong for sports or what but he really had my head spinning with his advice.
I got you but its been somewhat frustrating when my D40 pics were generally crisper than my D300 pics.
I used the kit 55-200 lens with the D40 and the 18-200 with the 300 and while when I really get a good one with the 300 its better than a good one with the D40 in general the D40 pics were crisper. I don't know if the 18-200 is all wrong for sports or what but he really had my head spinning with his advice.
Maybe I should have bought a D700....
Maybe you should have bought a Canon
Just kidding. But the D700 is not the answer either.
18 to 200 is a HUGE range for a zoom, so I am not surprised your % of sharps are low.
Also, lots of things come into effect as far as sharps.
Sunny days you will get more sharp because of the contrast and the autofocus works better on contrasty subjects. Speed of the bike, color of the bike, shooting from head on or from the side.
Look at all these things when comparing you sharps before you decide witch setup is working better.
F4 to 5.6 is the sweet spot for bikes at 200mm full frame. Just enough depth of field to get from the front fender to the eyes sharp on head on to 3/4 front shots.
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www.joeywashburn.com
I'm liking these, looks like these boys are on the GAS. nice shots.
I also broke out the SB900 flash when the clouds started getting involved so I was ready for theor little tricks.
a few from Sunday October 4, Ace MX.
I've thought of taking a little marker or flag to stick in the ground to help spot focus, even a helium balloon but I suppose you'd look a little strange.
I want a fast lens.
Your friend couldn't be more wrong!!!!!!!! He obviously isn't a MX or sports photog. Sure using a higher number Fstop will get you better focus, but that means that the background will also be more in focus. That is a big no-no in MX photography. You want a clean - out of focus background so your subject really stands out. I've shot many Pro SX's and a MX race. I shoot for an MX magazine and have had some instruction from several long time Pro's. So, I'm not just guessing here or giving you my opinion. Most Pro's will shoot from F/2.8 to F/5.6.
There is one exception however, if you are trying a technique called panning which you somewhat did here. When you are trying to really slow your shutter speed down to show movement, then you use a high F-stop, but only because this allows you to slow the shutter and not have overeposed shots.
Look at the background in these pics, it's not good at all. Sure, they are good snapshot pics, but if you want to better your skills and become a good MX photog, you gotta also work on your backgrounds as well as your subjects.
http://www.RussErbePhotography.com :thumb
http://www.sportsshooter.com/erbeman
D700, D300, Nikkor 35-70 F/2.8, Nikkor 50mm F/1.8, Nikkor 70-200 AF-S VR F/2.8, Nikkor AF-S 1.7 teleconverter II,(2) Profoto D1 500 Air,SB-900, SB-600, (2)MB-D10, MacBook Pro
2.
3.
4.
Canon XSI
18-55 AF IS
55-250 AF IS
Canon 430 EXII Flash
as always I value your input. just curious are you referring to the composition or make up of the backround, or the fact that it is relatively clear due to the high F stop.
the 512 feet flying shot was taken from the checkered flag platform and was really the only vantage point for this particular jump.
It was sunny when I left the house and clouded up as soon as I got there. so my nice SB900 Flash did me no good at home. Another stupid lesson learned. Don't buy equipment and leave it home!
Tomorrow is the last race of the year, sunny skies and 50's, and Jimmy Weinert will be there so we'll stalk him as well.
Here is one from the same day.
you guys really got me wanting a 70-200 Nikon lens in that other thread. What about the Tamron alternative @ 1/3 the price?
nice shots. whats up with all the red numbers?
I got you but its been somewhat frustrating when my D40 pics were generally crisper than my D300 pics.
I used the kit 55-200 lens with the D40 and the 18-200 with the 300 and while when I really get a good one with the 300 its better than a good one with the D40 in general the D40 pics were crisper. I don't know if the 18-200 is all wrong for sports or what but he really had my head spinning with his advice.
Maybe I should have bought a D700....
Maybe you should have bought a Canon
Just kidding. But the D700 is not the answer either.
18 to 200 is a HUGE range for a zoom, so I am not surprised your % of sharps are low.
Also, lots of things come into effect as far as sharps.
Sunny days you will get more sharp because of the contrast and the autofocus works better on contrasty subjects. Speed of the bike, color of the bike, shooting from head on or from the side.
Look at all these things when comparing you sharps before you decide witch setup is working better.
F4 to 5.6 is the sweet spot for bikes at 200mm full frame. Just enough depth of field to get from the front fender to the eyes sharp on head on to 3/4 front shots.