Thanks for your thoughts PP. Right now money is the bigger issue I would love a macro lens one of my dreams.... I am stuck using a low end camera and a 50mm lens. I have a kits lens but the 50mm makes more clear or sharper part to my images. I would just like the option to have all sharp but I like the idea of being able to change the DOF too...but because I have had noise filled images ever since using digital starting in 2005 with my first camera a Nikon D50 it was going out as I was coming into the world of digital cameras.... I really want to be able to have all sharp like my old point and shoot film camera from the 80's. But for now I have to work with what I have. A Nikon D90...if I knew what I know now before money was not there for the necessities of life, I would have waited and save for a Full frame camera. These muffins were giving to me from a food pantry and so I am thrilled when I am given something to shoot that is so pretty. One day tho I hope to be able to get better camera gear but for now... when I am able to do it as I suffer from health issues and not always able to work with my camera gear....I hope to get better...
... Right now money is the bigger issue I would love a macro lens one of my dreams.... I am stuck using a low end camera and a 50mm lens. I have a kits lens but the 50mm makes more clear or sharper part to my images. I would just like the option to have all sharp but I like the idea of being able to change the DOF too...but because I have had noise filled images ever since using digital starting in 2005 with my first camera a Nikon D50 it was going out as I was coming into the world of digital cameras.... I really want to be able to have all sharp like my old point and shoot film camera from the 80's.
There's a lot here - even tho it's not all of your post
I suggested a visit to the macro forum to check out what stacking software ppl there use ... not what gear /lenses are used ... which is why I mentioned the fact that there's at least one piece of software (CombineZ) that's free
Re getting closer - without shelling out for a macro lens - a set of extension tubes might be worth trying (if you can) as these will get you much closer ... at least 1:1 with the 50mm - but you'll definitely need stacking software to get everything sharp, depending on the subject and magnification. (extn tubes can also be used with most lenses - decreasing working distance / filling frame more)
I suspect you're also not comparing like for like - re what's sharp - an old film P'nS would've had a wide angle lens with very deep dof ... this is a totally different ball game from taking close-ups of small subjects ... where dof can easily be only a few mm (or way less) ... again depending on magnification.
I'll stop here, as don't want to pollute thread any more.
Generally, you fill should be on the same side as your main but basically behind you. If your not careful you can get basically 2 main lights and you also get catchlights on both sides of the eye.
A... Don't know why all of the images on smugmug are OK color wise but not on dgrin. Any ideas?
Hi Charles,
In Photoshop, it looks like you are using a custom ICC profile: "CanonEOS5DMk2-Generic", and you are exporting/saving with that profile, then finishing the file with ACDSee Pro 5.
I believe that you need to change the profile, while still in Photoshop, to ICC profile: "sRGB IEC61966-2.1", which should display properly on most unmanaged color display systems, like most Internet browsers.
Trying to simplify some equipment. Trying out a small LED light, cost about $40. Runs off of AA batteries or a nicad battery. Not too bad with no type of diffusion. These were done in the infants sun room.
Trying to simplify some equipment. Trying out a small LED light, cost about $40. Runs off of AA batteries or a nicad battery. Not too bad with no type of diffusion. These were done in the infants sun room.
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I bought 2 of these not too long ago and am pretty happy with them... Did you try to move the light closer and turn it down a bit to soften those shadows? ...also running it with a shoot through umbrella will bring a bigger closer light source (but the focus of light is both tight and wide at the same time so you kind of have to bring it close to the umbrella). Using these guys adds really a different dynamic to using off camera lighting... fun but frustraiting because they behave not exactly how you would think after you have been using strobes a bunch.
How often do you use the flourecent lights in your room shown on your ceiling? I use a room w/ good window light but @ night I use the assistances of AB model lights. Was wondering whether to wire some lights in the room for general use.
What would be the purpose of the lights you want to use.
I do have a strip of 4 flash heads that I bounce off the ceiling as my fill light on occasion, were you referring to those or the fluorescent?
I use the ceiling lights only when I don't want to trip. I would advise not to use them in your photography as the color of fluorescent is greatly different than natural light. There is a way to balance them but sooo much extra work to do.
There are a few photographers who use a constant bright light in the camera room to make the pupil smaller to get more iris color.
What would be the purpose of the lights you want to use.
I do have a strip of 4 flash heads that I bounce off the ceiling as my fill light on occasion, were you referring to those or the fluorescent?
I use the ceiling lights only when I don't want to trip. I would advise not to use them in your photography as the color of fluorescent is greatly different than natural light. There is a way to balance them but sooo much extra work to do.
There are a few photographers who use a constant bright light in the camera room to make the pupil smaller to get more iris color.
I was referring to the the ceiling flourecent lights. I assumed somehow they can throw off the WB when using w/ flashes... I seen pics of photo studios nicely lit and just wanted to know the difference between haveing a nicely lit studio or only relying on your modeling lights to see and utilizing flash as your only light source.
When shooting the only light that is on is the modeling light from the main light. Even the fill modeling light, when I use one, is off. You want to see what your main light is doing. I even put the largest modeling light into the main that I can find. One to see better and also to close the pupil to get a little more color out of the iris.
A quick engagement session.
I was home to check up on mom and my niece asked for a quick engagement session. Had a flash and reflector handy but only used the reflector for these. Put the reflector out to catch the sun and add some fill to the shadows. You can see it was pretty far out.
Travis, very simple set up indeed. Don't want to work too hard.
ISO 100 for all flash was just out of frame.
#2 5.6 1/640 flash +1.7
#3 6.3 1/250 flash +1
#4 6.3 1/250 flash +1
#5 6.3 1/250 flash +1
You can see on #4 how I missed the flash placement. I needed to move the flash more towards me to lighten the slight shadow just to the right of his nose. That is the shadow that was on his left side that I filled.
Don't get me wrong this is not the best set up for all instances. He is a guy and it was harsh light so I went with what you see. If it was a female I would have tried the small box and diffuser.
Comments
Thanks for your help and thoughts as well!
http://andeedesign.com/
There's a lot here - even tho it's not all of your post
I suggested a visit to the macro forum to check out what stacking software ppl there use ... not what gear /lenses are used ... which is why I mentioned the fact that there's at least one piece of software (CombineZ) that's free
Re getting closer - without shelling out for a macro lens - a set of extension tubes might be worth trying (if you can) as these will get you much closer ... at least 1:1 with the 50mm - but you'll definitely need stacking software to get everything sharp, depending on the subject and magnification. (extn tubes can also be used with most lenses - decreasing working distance / filling frame more)
I suspect you're also not comparing like for like - re what's sharp - an old film P'nS would've had a wide angle lens with very deep dof ... this is a totally different ball game from taking close-ups of small subjects ... where dof can easily be only a few mm (or way less) ... again depending on magnification.
I'll stop here, as don't want to pollute thread any more.
best of luck
pp
Flickr
http://andeedesign.com/
Here are a couple of results:
The photographer in these shots is not me--it's my friend who helped with the setup. It was a good learning experience.
Sherry
www.cameraone.biz
Don't know why all of the images on smugmug are OK color wise but not on dgrin. Any ideas?
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www.cameraone.biz
Hi Charles,
In Photoshop, it looks like you are using a custom ICC profile: "CanonEOS5DMk2-Generic", and you are exporting/saving with that profile, then finishing the file with ACDSee Pro 5.
I believe that you need to change the profile, while still in Photoshop, to ICC profile: "sRGB IEC61966-2.1", which should display properly on most unmanaged color display systems, like most Internet browsers.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
www.cameraone.biz
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www.cameraone.biz
Is that the Neewer unit?
twin Mark IV's & a bunch of "L" glass
site ∙ facebook
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9T6IirWMtpo
I just looked up Neewer and that must be the unit. Mine does not say Neewer on it.
www.cameraone.biz
twin Mark IV's & a bunch of "L" glass
site ∙ facebook
www.cameraone.biz
I bought 2 of these not too long ago and am pretty happy with them... Did you try to move the light closer and turn it down a bit to soften those shadows? ...also running it with a shoot through umbrella will bring a bigger closer light source (but the focus of light is both tight and wide at the same time so you kind of have to bring it close to the umbrella). Using these guys adds really a different dynamic to using off camera lighting... fun but frustraiting because they behave not exactly how you would think after you have been using strobes a bunch.
Basic set up for a business head shot.
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www.cameraone.biz
These are great Charles....
twin Mark IV's & a bunch of "L" glass
site ∙ facebook
www.cameraone.biz
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Note the effect of this light in the eye.
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Same light setup just added white bkg. No kickers, used them to light bkg.
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www.cameraone.biz
Shot with one light and two lights on bkg. Sat on the stool with the light behind me.
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www.cameraone.biz
I do have a strip of 4 flash heads that I bounce off the ceiling as my fill light on occasion, were you referring to those or the fluorescent?
I use the ceiling lights only when I don't want to trip. I would advise not to use them in your photography as the color of fluorescent is greatly different than natural light. There is a way to balance them but sooo much extra work to do.
There are a few photographers who use a constant bright light in the camera room to make the pupil smaller to get more iris color.
www.cameraone.biz
Well done Charles! Did you take these on Friday? I was on the shore & saw your truck & another car in the driveway around 11:45'ish....
twin Mark IV's & a bunch of "L" glass
site ∙ facebook
www.cameraone.biz
I was referring to the the ceiling flourecent lights. I assumed somehow they can throw off the WB when using w/ flashes... I seen pics of photo studios nicely lit and just wanted to know the difference between haveing a nicely lit studio or only relying on your modeling lights to see and utilizing flash as your only light source.
www.cameraone.biz
I was home to check up on mom and my niece asked for a quick engagement session. Had a flash and reflector handy but only used the reflector for these. Put the reflector out to catch the sun and add some fill to the shadows. You can see it was pretty far out.
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www.cameraone.biz
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www.cameraone.biz
That's an extremely simple setup! Single speedlite & using the sun as a rim light. What aperture, SS & power level?
twin Mark IV's & a bunch of "L" glass
site ∙ facebook
ISO 100 for all flash was just out of frame.
#2 5.6 1/640 flash +1.7
#3 6.3 1/250 flash +1
#4 6.3 1/250 flash +1
#5 6.3 1/250 flash +1
You can see on #4 how I missed the flash placement. I needed to move the flash more towards me to lighten the slight shadow just to the right of his nose. That is the shadow that was on his left side that I filled.
Don't get me wrong this is not the best set up for all instances. He is a guy and it was harsh light so I went with what you see. If it was a female I would have tried the small box and diffuser.
www.cameraone.biz