Use primes. The 50mm F1.4 I suggested will do the job, especially at F2.8 or smaller until the diffraction limits of the MKII (F10.8 to be exact) Corner sharpness in almost any zoom will disappoint you and will be very noticeable in that large of a print, especially if it's art that people will be analyzing closely. The one zoom I know that has amazing edge to edge sharpness is the Canon 70-200 F4/L @ F/4-F/10. You can grab a non IS version used for ~$500-600. The best thing for you would actually be to pan-stitch images and maybe get a 30-50MP image for that print rather than 21. It's really easy to do in PS and I've got quite a few images (not just panorama) that are stitched together 35MP+
I wish I had customers that wanted that big of a print for art cause I got plenty of gigantic images just sitting here on my hard drive... lol
I have a Canon 50mm F1.8 lens on my 5D MKll. Will this lens do as good a job as the F1.4 as regards large prints regarding sharpness?
Regarding sharpness actually yes... as long as it gets a proper focus lock... some comparisons I've seen actually rate the 1.8 higher at several apertures... it just doesn't compare in any other way (build quality, manual focus ring, focus speed, and focus accuracy)
But 50mm is nowhere near wide enough for car interiors. Yeah, it's a sharp lens but not right for the application you specified.
On a side note... why does the car interior shot need to be so huge (4x6 feet)?
I agree 50mm wouldn't do much for THAT wide of an interior shot... I wasn't aware that's what you were going for since I was focused in on your first post (didnt say anything about interiors.) One idea is that you could still pan stitch with a wider angle lens. CS4 and higher do great jobs. I've done pan macros before and vertical pans of all kinds of stuff way too wide otherwise... it can be fun Vertical panning works just as well as horizontal in CS4 so maybe you could have a workaround with a less expensive lens and as a benefit it'd make you some giant 30MP+ photos in the process for such big prints.
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
edited April 10, 2011
While we're on the subject of record-setting wide angle lenses:
* 16-xx is the widest standard ZOOM angle on the market, besides the Nikon 14-24 and the Sigma 12-24. (Yes, the Sigma is a full-frame lens)
* The Nikon 14-24 BLOWS AWAY any other lens at 14mm, even primes. Canon, Nikon, it completely schools them all. Dunno how Nikon did it, but it is the most perfection you will ever get at 14mm.
* The Sigma 12-24 is the widest "corrected" lens on full-frame, OR the Sigma 8-16 DC crop-sensor lens on a (Nikon) 1.5x crop. Both lenses are VERY decently sharp, even at 12mm, and a good buy if you're using a tripod on full-frame and simply MUST go as wide as possible without "going fish"
* The Sigma 12-24, Nikon 14-24, Canon / Nikon 14's, and Tokina 16-28 are ALL no-filter lenses, with permanent hoods, and the Canon 16-35 2.8 mk2 is 82mm, thus making the Tokina 11-16 DX (crop sensor) the "BEST" option for anyone wanting to hit 16mm on full-frame and still use a 77mm filter. (If for example you shoot motocross or other extremely dirty sports where a protective filter is a MUST.)
* The Tokina 17mm f/3.5 is, as far as I know, the widest PRIME lens to accept filters and is actually quite a steal considering price-VS-sharpness. (Although currently I'd rather recommend the Tokina 11-16, since it is much more practical for anyone who shoots with BOTH a 7D and 5D mk2, for example...)
* Just for fun: The most "obscenely huge" non-fisheye wide angle lens is probably the Nikon 13mm f/5.6, first made in 1975... http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/13mm.htm (If you ultra-wide fans want to REALLY drool, check out the distortion test photos. OMG.)
While we're on the subject of record-setting wide angle lenses:
* 16-xx is the widest standard ZOOM angle on the market, besides the Nikon 14-24 and the Sigma 12-24. (Yes, the Sigma is a full-frame lens)
* The Nikon 14-24 BLOWS AWAY any other lens at 14mm, even primes. Canon, Nikon, it completely schools them all. Dunno how Nikon did it, but it is the most perfection you will ever get at 14mm.
* The Sigma 12-24 is the widest "corrected" lens on full-frame, OR the Sigma 8-16 DC crop-sensor lens on a (Nikon) 1.5x crop. Both lenses are VERY decently sharp, even at 12mm, and a good buy if you're using a tripod on full-frame and simply MUST go as wide as possible without "going fish"
* The Sigma 12-24, Nikon 14-24, Canon / Nikon 14's, and Tokina 16-28 are ALL no-filter lenses, with permanent hoods, and the Canon 16-35 2.8 mk2 is 82mm, thus making the Tokina 11-16 DX (crop sensor) the "BEST" option for anyone wanting to hit 16mm on full-frame and still use a 77mm filter. (If for example you shoot motocross or other extremely dirty sports where a protective filter is a MUST.)
* The Tokina 17mm f/3.5 is, as far as I know, the widest PRIME lens to accept filters and is actually quite a steal considering price-VS-sharpness. (Although currently I'd rather recommend the Tokina 11-16, since it is much more practical for anyone who shoots with BOTH a 7D and 5D mk2, for example...)
* Just for fun: The most "obscenely huge" non-fisheye wide angle lens is probably the Nikon 13mm f/5.6, first made in 1975... http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/13mm.htm (If you ultra-wide fans want to REALLY drool, check out the distortion test photos. OMG.)
Take care,
=Matt=
I did not expect this subject to get as much attention. I was having a cup of tea 2 days ago and my laptop snatched it off me and in desperation soaked itself. Its now got a unusable keyboard and my mouse is playing up as well. I am currently using an old computer that takes one hour to start up so please be patient with me as i dont get much access to it during my childrens homework period.
Ok here are some answers to your questions.
I wanted a wide lens for a few reasons, as i explained before i think my new nifty fifty is not wide enough for interiors of cars while i find my self standing a considerable distance from my subjects while i try to get a full body shot using a speedlite 580exii is useless with bounce. I have to point the flash straight at my subjects to get enough light on to them.
Yes i would like a landscape lens too but i am in a cunundrum as what path i should take lens wise. Do i buy a prime 14mm lens or go for a zoom???
Here is a picture as regards the limitations of my 17-85 kit lens on the 40D IMG_1093 by OakField Photography, on Flickr
Nearest focus distance is important to me as i have to work in a small enviroment with some of these classic cars as well. The 17 mm on a croped sensor is also a problem due to the sensor as you can see.
Yes i know big bucks can get involved here and i having a hard time deciding what i want. I guess my budget is around €1000.
Sorry for not answering you all sooner as explained. I hope this helps you.
The usual choices for super-wide zoom lenses on a Canon crop camera are:
Canon EF-S 10-22mm, f3.5-4.5 USM
Sigma 8-16mm, f4.5-5.6 DC HSM
Sigma 10-20mm, f3.5 EX DC HSM
Sigma 10-20mm, f4-5.6 EX DC HSM
Tamron 11-18mm, f4.5-5.6 XR DI-II LD Aspherical (IF)
Tamron 10-24mm, f3.5-4.5 DI-II LD Aspherical (IF)
Tokina 11-16mm, f2.8 ATX Pro DX
Tokina 12-24mm, f4 PRO DX/DX II
Of these I own the Sigma 10mm-20mm, f4-5.6 EX DC HSM and it is an extremely good value. I do generally shoot at one stop below maximum aperture for better sharpness but it's still pretty good wide open.
Many people swear by the Tokina super-wide zooms.
Understand that all of these may exhibit some curvilinear distortion at the wide end and also perspective distortion. Careful attention to horizon and some post processing might be needed.
If i were to compromise would a Canon 24-105 L range on a 5Dmk2 suit my needs?
Might be a while before i get to answer any questions as i have to collect the kids from school. Please bear with me. Thanks ziggy you are a mind of information and some of those lens look good. I will try to get back here later on this evening if homework lets me. lol
If i were to compromise would a Canon 24-105 L range on a 5Dmk2 suit my needs?
Might be a while before i get to answer any questions as i have to collect the kids from school. Please bear with me. Thanks ziggy you are a mind of information and some of those lens look good. I will try to get back here later on this evening if homework lets me. lol
Regards
Patrick
Your 17-85mm lens at 17mm on your crop 1.6x camera body has FOV similar to that of a 27mm on a FF body (like the Canon 5D MKII.) While you would gain some additional scene width using the 24-105mm at 24mm on a FF body, it would not be a dramatic improvement.
A 10-20mm(-ish) zoom lens at 10mm on the crop camera body yields a FOV similar to a 16mm lens on a FF body, for a more expansive view yet. I believe that is a much more significant improvement.
Your 17-85mm lens at 17mm on your crop 1.6x camera body has FOV similar to that of a 27mm on a FF body (like the Canon 5D MKII.) While you would gain some additional scene width using the 24-105mm at 24mm on a FF body, it would not be a dramatic improvement.
A 10-20mm(-ish) zoom lens at 10mm on the crop camera body yields a FOV similar to a 16mm lens on a FF body, for a more expansive view yet. I believe that is a much more significant improvement.
Your are right Ziggy i think i will sell my kit lens and invest in a 10-20ish lens and also invest in a 24-105 L as this will give me enough room to work with and when i have the funds i can move forward to the next stage.
It is a pity that you cant get a fitting to allow you to use a EFS lens on a EF mount but i can see where its all about the glass.
I think now is the time for action and its time to get some much needed funds for the road ahead. I will only buy new and from a recognised dealer. The road is paved with grey market lens at the moment but i will resist the temptation and keep on the straight and narrow. Thanks everyone here for your help and i will report back when ever i buy the lenses i need.
... It is a pity that you cant get a fitting to allow you to use a EFS lens on a EF mount but i can see where its all about the glass.
...
While it's not recommended to use "crop" lenses on a FF body, many third-party crop lenses (but not all) can be safely mounted on a FF body.
I can mount my Sigma 10-20mm, f4-5.6 EX DC on the Canon 5D MKII without danger and it does provide fairly good coverage of the sensor from 16-20mm. There are problems with the edges and corners but in a pinch it's useful.
Some of our DGrinners use the Tokina 11-16mm, f2.8 ATX Pro DX at 16mm on a FF body and claim high quality.
If i were to compromise would a Canon 24-105 L range on a 5Dmk2 suit my needs?
Might be a while before i get to answer any questions as i have to collect the kids from school. Please bear with me. Thanks ziggy you are a mind of information and some of those lens look good. I will try to get back here later on this evening if homework lets me. lol
Regards
Patrick
In my experience the 24-105 IQ is pretty disgusting since the sharpness was so horrible. It's an L for build quality but for IQ I've had kit lenses that do better on clarity. It's only sharp in the center and was horrid with the remaining %60 of the image. I've see others' photos taken with other copies and they look the same too. I'd stay away, especially for commercial auto photography, since you want sharp crisp images from edge, which you won't get.
In my experience the 24-105 IQ is pretty disgusting since the sharpness was so horrible. It's an L for build quality but for IQ I've had kit lenses that do better on clarity. It's only sharp in the center and was horrid with the remaining %60 of the image. I've see others' photos taken with other copies and they look the same too. I'd stay away, especially for commercial auto photography, since you want sharp crisp images from edge, which you won't get.
This is coming as a shock to the system here about the 24-105 L or are we pixel pinching here. The review on this lens here on dgrin is good.
Mabey i would be better off find some one who does car prints for a living.
I dont doubt that the lens in question is that bad but is the L really for build quality, Surely the glass has to account for something when you shell out all those bucks.
Looks like my search is turned upside down again.
I don't shoot Canon, but I know a few very successful photographers who DO pixel pinch and shoot very well with the 24-105 L. It's one you do have to get a 'good' copy of, but that applies to ANY lens.
I think the OP needs to use some of these lenses. Do you have a camera store near you? If so, then go slap a few Ls on that 5DII. Take some shots, then back home see what's wide enough for you. You're not really sure how wide you need, and I would not spend a dollar until you're absolutely sure that you're getting the lens you need. Before you shell out 1K+, you should have used the lens on the body you'll be using it on.
Another option is renting. Rent a few lenses for a day or two and take 'em to the car shows.
This is coming as a shock to the system here about the 24-105 L or are we pixel pinching here. The review on this lens here on dgrin is good.
Mabey i would be better off find some one who does car prints for a living.
I dont doubt that the lens in question is that bad but is the L really for build quality, Surely the glass has to account for something when you shell out all those bucks.
Looks like my search is turned upside down again.
Regards
Patrick
Dunno. I sent mine to canon for recalibration 3 times and went step by step with testing and detailed explanation, but it really didn't get any better. Plus, I found others with the same blurriness outside of center online (they didn't notice it of course) It wasn't just softness, it was blurry uneven plane of focus and it really looked poor outside of the center, like the glass quality control tolerances were too high or something. I'll try to dig up an example if I actually ended up keeping photos from that lens, lol, not sure if I kept any.
Dunno. I sent mine to canon for recalibration 3 times and went step by step with testing and detailed explanation, but it really didn't get any better. Plus, I found others with the same blurriness outside of center online (they didn't notice it of course) It wasn't just softness, it was blurry uneven plane of focus and it really looked poor outside of the center, like the glass quality control tolerances were too high or something. I'll try to dig up an example if I actually ended up keeping photos from that lens, lol, not sure if I kept any.
Wish you would.
I have the 24-105 L and I was shocked by how much it exceeded my expectations for sharpness. I have no hesitation in using it instead of L primes in that range when it's more convenient. It has never disappointed me.
If i were to compromise would a Canon 24-105 L range on a 5Dmk2 suit my needs?
Might be a while before i get to answer any questions as i have to collect the kids from school. Please bear with me. Thanks ziggy you are a mind of information and some of those lens look good. I will try to get back here later on this evening if homework lets me. lol
Regards
Patrick
Since you're most likely to shoot landscapes stopped down at f/11 or f/16 on full-frame, and since photojournalism on the other hand doesn't care at all about sharp corners, YES the 24-104 f/4 L IS is a great all-around lens for most ANY 5D mk2 user. Honestly, if your focus is landscapes, you really don't NEED f/2.8 unless you're into star / night photography. (Which certainly is fun though!
Even then, if you get the 24-105 L, a lens like the Tokina 11-16 still serves a purpose- it works great as a fast-action ultra0wide on a crop body like a 7D, and it works great for low-light ultra-wide photojournalism when you need to hit 16mm on full-frame.
Although, from a photojournalist's standpoint, I'd rather have a 17-35 and a 70-200. So, it just depends on what you shoot and how you shoot it. Stopped down, wide open, up-close, from a distance, etc. etc.
I have the 24-105 L and I was shocked by how much it exceeded my expectations for sharpness. I have no hesitation in using it instead of L primes in that range when it's more convenient. It has never disappointed me.
Since you're most likely to shoot landscapes stopped down at f/11 or f/16 on full-frame
=Matt=
I only have a few images from it but I did have some perfect examples! Here's two full size photos stopped down to F/10 (before diffraction starts at F10.8 on the MKII) They were saved straight from camera raw.
One is at 1/160th second one is at 1/400th, both plenty fast to freeze a sun lit scene. They both have glaringly obvious IQ problems and this was a constant for all of my photos. This is after sending samples to Canon thoroughly explaining the problem, and requesting recalibration. After 3 tries Canon never fixed it either. I agree this doesn't matter for photo journalism but for anything that requires seeing it at least decently sharp.... ehhhh . If this is within Canon's standards and tolerances even after 3 factory recalibrations, then I'd mark it down as a risk buying one since I have also seen other photos with this same issue. I bought a $300 Tokina ATX Pro 28-70 F2.8 and it does a much better job. AF isn't as quick but the IQ sure beats the 24-105 that I had, and by $650 at the time .
Well if i am to get started i have to sell my kit lens that came with my 40D. Looking on Ebay id say i should not expect too much as the EFS17-85 USM IS lens, as it looks as popular as a nun with a needle in a condom factory.
So i will have to sell this lens first before i find a camera shop that,s nearer than 80 miles from my location to try out some lenses. I will have to be careful in what i buy as you would get dizzy looking at all those reviews and wondering which is right and which is wrong.
I want my lenses for really good prints that if i decide in the future to blow them up to art gallery size i should not have a problem with IQ.
An old pro photographer once said to me that he would rather have good glass than a good camera any day and i believe this is true. This is going to be an ardues journey for me as i try before i buy lenses in my budget. I will let you all know how i get on as time passes by and post some of my pictures up here for you all to see, good or bad. lol
Thanks to everyone here i will leave alot wiser in my decision making process and lets hope by the grace of God i get it right.
Exactly; in post #51 I linked directly to each reviewed lens that I listed. I also believe that all the reviews I've seen agree with each other... there's not much "who to believe and who not" out there.
ciao!
Nick.
ciao!
Nick.
my equipment: Canon 5D2, 7D, full list here
my Smugmug site: here
Exactly; in post #51 I linked directly to each reviewed lens that I listed. I also believe that all the reviews I've seen agree with each other... there's not much "who to believe and who not" out there.
Ok
I have decided to buy a Canon EF 24-105 f4 is usm lens. My season of car shows is nearly upon me and i must have a general purpose zoom within the next few weeks. When i have earned more money from the mag then i will start buying some nice aftermarket glass.
This is going to be a journey into the unknown for me but thanks to you all i think i have made the right choice.
Just one question that will bother me and that is if i go to any store to try out this lens how will i know if it is a good copy. I cant start testing the lens instore. But i dont want to be sending a bad copy back to canon as time wont be on my side.
Is there a fairly quick way of telling if the lens i am looking at instore is a good copy?
Ok
I have decided to buy a Canon EF 24-105 f4 is usm lens. My season of car shows is nearly upon me and i must have a general purpose zoom within the next few weeks. When i have earned more money from the mag then i will start buying some nice aftermarket glass.
This is going to be a journey into the unknown for me but thanks to you all i think i have made the right choice.
Just one question that will bother me and that is if i go to any store to try out this lens how will i know if it is a good copy. I cant start testing the lens instore. But i dont want to be sending a bad copy back to canon as time wont be on my side.
Is there a fairly quick way of telling if the lens i am looking at instore is a good copy?
Regards
Patrick.:D
I suggest, bring your cam plus card, and laptop if you can shoot tethered. Aim the lens at the centre of a target that stretches diagonally away from you, eg a long counter, or a large advertisement or sign, and which has high contrast detail such as text. Choose appropriate camera and lens settings. Put the focus point on that centre area. Check the test image for sharpness in that area, and DOF fall off either side. Repeat for all major whole f-stops over sample of focal lengths. 10 min. Keep smiling at the assistant and make enthusiastic intending-to-purchase noises!:D
I suggest, bring your cam plus card, and laptop if you can shoot tethered. Aim the lens at the centre of a target that stretches diagonally away from you, eg a long counter, or a large advertisement or sign, and which has high contrast detail such as text. Choose appropriate camera and lens settings. Put the focus point on that centre area. Check the test image for sharpness in that area, and DOF fall off either side. Repeat for all major whole f-stops over sample of focal lengths. 10 min. Keep smiling at the assistant and make enthusiastic intending-to-purchase noises!:D
Neil
I dont know if the stores in europe will let you set up a test like this instore. Will they let you do this in the US?
Comments
I have a Canon 50mm F1.8 lens on my 5D MKll. Will this lens do as good a job as the F1.4 as regards large prints regarding sharpness?
Thanks
Patrick.:D
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
But 50mm is nowhere near wide enough for car interiors. Yeah, it's a sharp lens but not right for the application you specified.
http://www.tkephotography.com
Okay, I forgot about that one
On a side note... why does the car interior shot need to be so huge (4x6 feet)?
I agree 50mm wouldn't do much for THAT wide of an interior shot... I wasn't aware that's what you were going for since I was focused in on your first post (didnt say anything about interiors.) One idea is that you could still pan stitch with a wider angle lens. CS4 and higher do great jobs. I've done pan macros before and vertical pans of all kinds of stuff way too wide otherwise... it can be fun
* 16-xx is the widest standard ZOOM angle on the market, besides the Nikon 14-24 and the Sigma 12-24. (Yes, the Sigma is a full-frame lens)
* The Nikon 14-24 BLOWS AWAY any other lens at 14mm, even primes. Canon, Nikon, it completely schools them all. Dunno how Nikon did it, but it is the most perfection you will ever get at 14mm.
* The Sigma 12-24 is the widest "corrected" lens on full-frame, OR the Sigma 8-16 DC crop-sensor lens on a (Nikon) 1.5x crop. Both lenses are VERY decently sharp, even at 12mm, and a good buy if you're using a tripod on full-frame and simply MUST go as wide as possible without "going fish"
* The Sigma 12-24, Nikon 14-24, Canon / Nikon 14's, and Tokina 16-28 are ALL no-filter lenses, with permanent hoods, and the Canon 16-35 2.8 mk2 is 82mm, thus making the Tokina 11-16 DX (crop sensor) the "BEST" option for anyone wanting to hit 16mm on full-frame and still use a 77mm filter. (If for example you shoot motocross or other extremely dirty sports where a protective filter is a MUST.)
* The Tokina 17mm f/3.5 is, as far as I know, the widest PRIME lens to accept filters and is actually quite a steal considering price-VS-sharpness. (Although currently I'd rather recommend the Tokina 11-16, since it is much more practical for anyone who shoots with BOTH a 7D and 5D mk2, for example...)
* Just for fun: The most "obscenely huge" non-fisheye wide angle lens is probably the Nikon 13mm f/5.6, first made in 1975... http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/13mm.htm (If you ultra-wide fans want to REALLY drool, check out the distortion test photos. OMG.)
Take care,
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I have the Canon 14mm L, and it is superb! On what points does the Nikon beat it? You can use filters with the Canon, just not screw on ones.
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
I did not expect this subject to get as much attention. I was having a cup of tea 2 days ago and my laptop snatched it off me and in desperation soaked itself. Its now got a unusable keyboard and my mouse is playing up as well. I am currently using an old computer that takes one hour to start up so please be patient with me as i dont get much access to it during my childrens homework period.
Ok here are some answers to your questions.
I wanted a wide lens for a few reasons, as i explained before i think my new nifty fifty is not wide enough for interiors of cars while i find my self standing a considerable distance from my subjects while i try to get a full body shot using a speedlite 580exii is useless with bounce. I have to point the flash straight at my subjects to get enough light on to them.
Yes i would like a landscape lens too but i am in a cunundrum as what path i should take lens wise. Do i buy a prime 14mm lens or go for a zoom???
Here is a picture as regards the limitations of my 17-85 kit lens on the 40D
IMG_1093 by OakField Photography, on Flickr
Nearest focus distance is important to me as i have to work in a small enviroment with some of these classic cars as well. The 17 mm on a croped sensor is also a problem due to the sensor as you can see.
Yes i know big bucks can get involved here and i having a hard time deciding what i want. I guess my budget is around €1000.
Sorry for not answering you all sooner as explained. I hope this helps you.
Regards
Patrick:D
Canon EF-S 10-22mm, f3.5-4.5 USM
Sigma 8-16mm, f4.5-5.6 DC HSM
Sigma 10-20mm, f3.5 EX DC HSM
Sigma 10-20mm, f4-5.6 EX DC HSM
Tamron 11-18mm, f4.5-5.6 XR DI-II LD Aspherical (IF)
Tamron 10-24mm, f3.5-4.5 DI-II LD Aspherical (IF)
Tokina 11-16mm, f2.8 ATX Pro DX
Tokina 12-24mm, f4 PRO DX/DX II
Of these I own the Sigma 10mm-20mm, f4-5.6 EX DC HSM and it is an extremely good value. I do generally shoot at one stop below maximum aperture for better sharpness but it's still pretty good wide open.
Many people swear by the Tokina super-wide zooms.
Understand that all of these may exhibit some curvilinear distortion at the wide end and also perspective distortion. Careful attention to horizon and some post processing might be needed.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Might be a while before i get to answer any questions as i have to collect the kids from school. Please bear with me. Thanks ziggy you are a mind of information and some of those lens look good. I will try to get back here later on this evening if homework lets me. lol
Regards
Patrick
Your 17-85mm lens at 17mm on your crop 1.6x camera body has FOV similar to that of a 27mm on a FF body (like the Canon 5D MKII.) While you would gain some additional scene width using the 24-105mm at 24mm on a FF body, it would not be a dramatic improvement.
A 10-20mm(-ish) zoom lens at 10mm on the crop camera body yields a FOV similar to a 16mm lens on a FF body, for a more expansive view yet. I believe that is a much more significant improvement.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Your are right Ziggy i think i will sell my kit lens and invest in a 10-20ish lens and also invest in a 24-105 L as this will give me enough room to work with and when i have the funds i can move forward to the next stage.
It is a pity that you cant get a fitting to allow you to use a EFS lens on a EF mount but i can see where its all about the glass.
I think now is the time for action and its time to get some much needed funds for the road ahead. I will only buy new and from a recognised dealer. The road is paved with grey market lens at the moment but i will resist the temptation and keep on the straight and narrow. Thanks everyone here for your help and i will report back when ever i buy the lenses i need.
Regards
Patrick:D
While it's not recommended to use "crop" lenses on a FF body, many third-party crop lenses (but not all) can be safely mounted on a FF body.
I can mount my Sigma 10-20mm, f4-5.6 EX DC on the Canon 5D MKII without danger and it does provide fairly good coverage of the sensor from 16-20mm. There are problems with the edges and corners but in a pinch it's useful.
Some of our DGrinners use the Tokina 11-16mm, f2.8 ATX Pro DX at 16mm on a FF body and claim high quality.
Neither are Canon "L" quality to be sure, but ...
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
In my experience the 24-105 IQ is pretty disgusting since the sharpness was so horrible. It's an L for build quality but for IQ I've had kit lenses that do better on clarity. It's only sharp in the center and was horrid with the remaining %60 of the image. I've see others' photos taken with other copies and they look the same too. I'd stay away, especially for commercial auto photography, since you want sharp crisp images from edge, which you won't get.
This is coming as a shock to the system here about the 24-105 L or are we pixel pinching here. The review on this lens here on dgrin is good.
Mabey i would be better off find some one who does car prints for a living.
I dont doubt that the lens in question is that bad but is the L really for build quality, Surely the glass has to account for something when you shell out all those bucks.
Looks like my search is turned upside down again.
Regards
Patrick
Another option is renting. Rent a few lenses for a day or two and take 'em to the car shows.
Dunno. I sent mine to canon for recalibration 3 times and went step by step with testing and detailed explanation, but it really didn't get any better. Plus, I found others with the same blurriness outside of center online (they didn't notice it of course) It wasn't just softness, it was blurry uneven plane of focus and it really looked poor outside of the center, like the glass quality control tolerances were too high or something. I'll try to dig up an example if I actually ended up keeping photos from that lens, lol, not sure if I kept any.
Wish you would.
I have the 24-105 L and I was shocked by how much it exceeded my expectations for sharpness. I have no hesitation in using it instead of L primes in that range when it's more convenient. It has never disappointed me.
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
If I understand it all, the OP has a 40D and a 5DMkII. I would not need much time to select an ultra-wide for either camera:
for the 40D : Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro DX
for the 5DMkII :
- f2.8 zoom : Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II USM
- f2.8 prime : Canon EF 14mm f/2.8 L II USM
- f4.0 zoom : Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0 L USM
- f4.0 prime : Canon TS-E 17mm f/4 L Tilt-Shift
In fact, I would have to restrain myself so I don't buy them all :-)
p.s. with those 2 bodies, you can switch bodies to fill gaps in focal length (ie. the 17-40mm is wide on the 5D but standard on the 40D etc.)
In the mean time, I'm stuck with my Tokina 12-24mm which I bought new a week before the 11-16mm came out :-S
ciao!
Nick.
Nick.
my equipment: Canon 5D2, 7D, full list here
my Smugmug site: here
Even then, if you get the 24-105 L, a lens like the Tokina 11-16 still serves a purpose- it works great as a fast-action ultra0wide on a crop body like a 7D, and it works great for low-light ultra-wide photojournalism when you need to hit 16mm on full-frame.
Although, from a photojournalist's standpoint, I'd rather have a 17-35 and a 70-200. So, it just depends on what you shoot and how you shoot it. Stopped down, wide open, up-close, from a distance, etc. etc.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I only have a few images from it but I did have some perfect examples! Here's two full size photos stopped down to F/10 (before diffraction starts at F10.8 on the MKII) They were saved straight from camera raw.
Click to download
One is at 1/160th second one is at 1/400th, both plenty fast to freeze a sun lit scene. They both have glaringly obvious IQ problems and this was a constant for all of my photos. This is after sending samples to Canon thoroughly explaining the problem, and requesting recalibration. After 3 tries Canon never fixed it either. I agree this doesn't matter for photo journalism but for anything that requires seeing it at least decently sharp.... ehhhh
So i will have to sell this lens first before i find a camera shop that,s nearer than 80 miles from my location to try out some lenses. I will have to be careful in what i buy as you would get dizzy looking at all those reviews and wondering which is right and which is wrong.
I want my lenses for really good prints that if i decide in the future to blow them up to art gallery size i should not have a problem with IQ.
An old pro photographer once said to me that he would rather have good glass than a good camera any day and i believe this is true. This is going to be an ardues journey for me as i try before i buy lenses in my budget. I will let you all know how i get on as time passes by and post some of my pictures up here for you all to see, good or bad. lol
Thanks to everyone here i will leave alot wiser in my decision making process and lets hope by the grace of God i get it right.
Regards
Patrick:D
One very good place for canon reviews is here:
Camera/Lens Reviews
Exactly; in post #51 I linked directly to each reviewed lens that I listed. I also believe that all the reviews I've seen agree with each other... there's not much "who to believe and who not" out there.
ciao!
Nick.
Nick.
my equipment: Canon 5D2, 7D, full list here
my Smugmug site: here
Er yeah oops xD
It's my most used lens ~ It's on my 5D2 98% of the time, and I've got some other very nice glass to choose from.
From portaits to landscapes, it's my favorite! It's IQ never lets me down
If I could only own one lens, this would be it... hands down!
Slight crop, but not much
I have decided to buy a Canon EF 24-105 f4 is usm lens. My season of car shows is nearly upon me and i must have a general purpose zoom within the next few weeks. When i have earned more money from the mag then i will start buying some nice aftermarket glass.
This is going to be a journey into the unknown for me but thanks to you all i think i have made the right choice.
Just one question that will bother me and that is if i go to any store to try out this lens how will i know if it is a good copy. I cant start testing the lens instore. But i dont want to be sending a bad copy back to canon as time wont be on my side.
Is there a fairly quick way of telling if the lens i am looking at instore is a good copy?
Regards
Patrick.:D
I suggest, bring your cam plus card, and laptop if you can shoot tethered. Aim the lens at the centre of a target that stretches diagonally away from you, eg a long counter, or a large advertisement or sign, and which has high contrast detail such as text. Choose appropriate camera and lens settings. Put the focus point on that centre area. Check the test image for sharpness in that area, and DOF fall off either side. Repeat for all major whole f-stops over sample of focal lengths. 10 min. Keep smiling at the assistant and make enthusiastic intending-to-purchase noises!:D
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
I dont know if the stores in europe will let you set up a test like this instore. Will they let you do this in the US?
Regards
Patrick:D