What about the shot of the guy sitting inside the cabin? HDR or DLO? Either way, gorgeous capture.
=Matt=
In camera HDR, straight JPG from camera. Some of the shots of my pals inside the plane are also HDR. It works great so long as your subject keeps still! No turbulence! Btw, I believe I was using the "Art Standard" HDR preset.
In camera HDR, straight JPG from camera. Some of the shots of my pals inside the plane are also HDR. It works great so long as your subject keeps still! No turbulence! Btw, I believe I was using the "Art Standard" HDR preset.
Great photos, does the HDR mode require multiple exposures?
Folks, you can use ALO & RAW, if you use DPP. The Canon software is the only RAW converter that will retain any in camera setting besides white balance. ALO, DLO and highlight tone priority are just some of the great features can take advantage of by using DPP for your RAW conversions.
My post production workflow begins in the field. I am keeping an eye on WB, Picture Style, Saturation, Black & Whites, etc. Shooting in such a way that your in camera RAW's look great means that you can save a ton of time in post by using DPP. Everything gets carried over, what you see on your camera screen is what you get in DPP. And if you still don't like the look, DPP has a bunch if powerful RAW adjustment tools you can use to tweak the shot before going to JPG.
My workflow summary: Shoot stuff that looks great on my camera screen, tweak and convert in DPP, import into LR catalog for archiving.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom and these awesome photos, Josh. After looking at your images, it does make me want to rethink my own workflow. The light is balanced on all your shots so wonderfully, and I know it's not all about the camera. Please post some pics in Landscape sometime if you get a chance.
Folks, you can use ALO & RAW, if you use DPP. The Canon software is the only RAW converter that will retain any in camera setting besides white balance. ALO, DLO and highlight tone priority are just some of the great features can take advantage of by using DPP for your RAW conversions.
My post production workflow begins in the field. I am keeping an eye on WB, Picture Style, Saturation, Black & Whites, etc. Shooting in such a way that your in camera RAW's look great means that you can save a ton of time in post by using DPP. Everything gets carried over, what you see on your camera screen is what you get in DPP. And if you still don't like the look, DPP has a bunch if powerful RAW adjustment tools you can use to tweak the shot before going to JPG.
My workflow summary: Shoot stuff that looks great on my camera screen, tweak and convert in DPP, import into LR catalog for archiving.
Exactly how I've been shooting on Nikon for years, and I LOVE it. I remember in 2007 when these "dynamic range boosting" features first came out, the difference wasn't very visible on Canon but Nikon had it's flippin' awesome "Active D-Lighting" feature that gave amazing results... Looks like Canon now has a flawless execution of this feature, and with the new generation of in-camera HDR's to boot. (BTW, can't the 5D mk3 shoot MORE than 3 clicks now, too? At MORE than just +2 and -2 stops? That was a huge thing with me and the 5D mk2, and a reason why I loved the 9-shot bracketing on my Nikons. And I think the 5D mk3 steps it up to 6EV's worth of bracketing, I'm not sure...)
I highly HIGHLY recommend at least culling your photos using the in-camera settings that our camera comes with, whether it be Nikon View NX, or Canon's programs. (Zoom browser? What's it called?) ...If the Canon program isn't fast enough for you, try Photomechanic. I don't know if Photomechanic allows you to export high-quality JPG's from a RAW file, but it at least allows you to access the quick JPG preview.
Or, of course, just buy an extra memory card and shoot RAW+JPG. But that's so oldschool!!!! You should be using your fancy new dual card slot system for fully redundant backup, if you can...
Josh, much thanks for sharing those awesome shots and your experience thus far with DPP 3.11.10.x and the III. Reading these posts is making it very difficult for me to wait. This next week might very well be one of the last times I use my 40D as my main body for a shoot. I'm soooo ready to update the thing. This costs me double, of course, because the wife will absolutely need that nice new Swiss Bernina sewing machine about the same time. But she deserves that too. The big flat screen TV might just have to wait another year (but luckily, those keep going down in price).
My Smugmug
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
Pushed the 5D3 in low light tonight at a university dance. Here's a 10,000 ISO shot with the 16-35L II. Very happy with the noise level, especially considering I pushed the photo quite a bit in DPP.
Pushed the 5D3 in low light tonight at a university dance. Here's a 10,000 ISO shot with the 16-35L II. Very happy with the noise level, especially considering I pushed the shot quite a bit in DPP.
Exactly how I've been shooting on Nikon for years, and I LOVE it. I remember in 2007 when these "dynamic range boosting" features first came out, the difference wasn't very visible on Canon but Nikon had it's flippin' awesome "Active D-Lighting" feature that gave amazing results... Looks like Canon now has a flawless execution of this feature, and with the new generation of in-camera HDR's to boot. (BTW, can't the 5D mk3 shoot MORE than 3 clicks now, too? At MORE than just +2 and -2 stops? That was a huge thing with me and the 5D mk2, and a reason why I loved the 9-shot bracketing on my Nikons. And I think the 5D mk3 steps it up to 6EV's worth of bracketing, I'm not sure...)
I highly HIGHLY recommend at least culling your photos using the in-camera settings that our camera comes with, whether it be Nikon View NX, or Canon's programs. (Zoom browser? What's it called?) ...If the Canon program isn't fast enough for you, try Photomechanic. I don't know if Photomechanic allows you to export high-quality JPG's from a RAW file, but it at least allows you to access the quick JPG preview.
Or, of course, just buy an extra memory card and shoot RAW+JPG. But that's so oldschool!!!! You should be using your fancy new dual card slot system for fully redundant backup, if you can...
=Matt=
Yep. I am a huge fan of getting your stuff to look good in camera. You'll be a better photographer for it. Not to mention it saves you a ton of time in post production. My average wedding edit is 1-2 hours.
Josh, much thanks for sharing those awesome shots and your experience thus far with DPP 3.11.10.x and the III. Reading these posts is making it very difficult for me to wait. This next week might very well be one of the last times I use my 40D as my main body for a shoot. I'm soooo ready to update the thing. This costs me double, of course, because the wife will absolutely need that nice new Swiss Bernina sewing machine about the same time. But she deserves that too. The big flat screen TV might just have to wait another year (but luckily, those keep going down in price).
5D3 from a 40D is a HUGE jump! Wow. Be sure you have a decent collection of L glass before dropping $3.5k on a body. Glass before body, every time.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom and these awesome photos, Josh. After looking at your images, it does make me want to rethink my own workflow. The light is balanced on all your shots so wonderfully, and I know it's not all about the camera. Please post some pics in Landscape sometime if you get a chance.
Cheers,
-joel
Give it a shot. Get to know your camera profiles and use them. White balance, WB shift, etc. I will share some AK beauty in the landscape forums soon. But, you should know, I am people photog at heart. I even get bored shooting the Northern Lights and have to break out some strobist action and get my portrait fix.
Great shots!! I love ALaska and a bit jealous that you're in Bristol Bay! My son commercial fished that area for several years!
Sweet! It's a beautiful region, for sure. The stories we're getting during interviews with the native folks are so rich. The subsistence lifestyle is incredible.
Canon 5D mk111 software
Can anyone tell me how i can upgrade my photoshop cs5 software to read the new camera raw format that comes with the new Canon 5D mkiii.
Sweet! It's a beautiful region, for sure. The stories we're getting during interviews with the native folks are so rich. The subsistence lifestyle is incredible.
slightly OT: Don't I recall you used to be in CA - did you move up there? I'm envious - Alaska is at the top of my "must see before I die" places for me (the others are St Petersburg, Russia, the Norwegia Fjords, and New Zealnd )
To get back to 5dIII stuff - the ALO shots you posted above are going to prompt me to set it on my 7d. I have never used it (or DPP for conversion), but you've sold me on it. Since it ONLY shows up in raws if you edit in DPP it seems to me it's a no-brainer to turn it on so it's there if I ever need it. Thanks!!
In the meantime, trying to figure out how the heck I can afford one of these beauties. This camera really does look like the dream-machine we've all been hoping for
The discussion about ALO is making me rethink my shooting and workflow. Up to now, I've been shooting RAW without much thought for the camera settings (beyond aperture, SS, ISO, etc.) and am not looking to add yet another module to the workflow--especially when I am on deadline shooting a sports event!
However, for those shots that don't have time pressure to process, it might make sense to add DPP to the PP mix. Quick question though: does ALO alter the camera exposure settings? Or just the curves on the rendered image? Or both?
I usually meter to capture the subject and whatever surrounding details are of interest. For example, if I am trying to do a portrait where the subject is fairly dark but there is a beautiful sky behind him/her, I'll meter so that the sky is not blown *and* there is still enough DR on the subject to bring up the quarter tones in PP. IOW, I think I may be doing what the camera does with ALO enabled, but not sure. Since the total DR of the sensor is a fixed quantity, and any image that comes off the sensor is ultimately limited by this DR, it seems to me that one should be able to achieve the same effect as ALO by judicious metering choices and some PP; that ALO may streamline the process and make the SOOC version of the shot better, but not provide anything that can't otherwise be had with some careful work with the camera and PP. Does this make sense? (I am constantly surprised by the subtlety and sophistication of cameras these days, so wouldn't be surprised to learn something new about this...)
BTW Josh--beautiful shots! I also took a look on your website, and love your work! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and expertise here!
The discussion about ALO is making me rethink my shooting and workflow. Up to now, I've been shooting RAW without much thought for the camera settings (beyond aperture, SS, ISO, etc.) and am not looking to add yet another module to the workflow--especially when I am on deadline shooting a sports event!
However, for those shots that don't have time pressure to process, it might make sense to add DPP to the PP mix. Quick question though: does ALO alter the camera exposure settings? Or just the curves on the rendered image? Or both?
I usually meter to capture the subject and whatever surrounding details are of interest. For example, if I am trying to do a portrait where the subject is fairly dark but there is a beautiful sky behind him/her, I'll meter so that the sky is not blown *and* there is still enough DR on the subject to bring up the quarter tones in PP. IOW, I think I may be doing what the camera does with ALO enabled, but not sure. Since the total DR of the sensor is a fixed quantity, and any image that comes off the sensor is ultimately limited by this DR, it seems to me that one should be able to achieve the same effect as ALO by judicious metering choices and some PP; that ALO may streamline the process and make the SOOC version of the shot better, but not provide anything that can't otherwise be had with some careful work with the camera and PP. Does this make sense? (I am constantly surprised by the subtlety and sophistication of cameras these days, so wouldn't be surprised to learn something new about this...)
BTW Josh--beautiful shots! I also took a look on your website, and love your work! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and expertise here!
Certainly. However, I would challenge you this:
Go shoot RAW+ JPG, and do the dynamic range thing you do with your normal Picture styles etc. Find something nice and contrasty. Then, turn ADL / DLO / ALO all the way to the max, and re-judge your exposure if necessary... Make sure your picture style has relatively normal or conservative colors and sharpening, of course, so that the JPG isn't a totally useless acid trip of an image. ;-)
Then, when you get back on the computer, take that JPG with the ALO etc. and try to match / beat it with the RAW file. You'll be VERY surprised, especially if you nail your white balance, just how awesome the in-camera JPG is. Or at least, you'll spend a good 5-15 minutes trying to make the RAW file look the same. It is NOT easy. I dunno what it is, but at least on Nikon and I'm sure now on Canon judging by the images I'm seeing; ...it is voodoo magic.
Go shoot RAW+ JPG, and do the dynamic range thing you do with your normal Picture styles etc. Find something nice and contrasty. Then, turn ADL / DLO / ALO all the way to the max, and re-judge your exposure if necessary... Make sure your picture style has relatively normal or conservative colors and sharpening, of course, so that the JPG isn't a totally useless acid trip of an image. ;-)
Then, when you get back on the computer, take that JPG with the ALO etc. and try to match / beat it with the RAW file. You'll be VERY surprised, especially if you nail your white balance, just how awesome the in-camera JPG is. Or at least, you'll spend a good 5-15 minutes trying to make the RAW file look the same. It is NOT easy. I dunno what it is, but at least on Nikon and I'm sure now on Canon judging by the images I'm seeing; ...it is voodoo magic.
Sounds like a very useful challenge! It does take some time to get things correct in contrasty images when it's done PP, for sure. And in any case, if I can learn to get decent JPGs SOOC (or with minimal editing) it certainly would help my workflow when shooting sports on assignment.
Sounds like a very useful challenge! It does take some time to get things correct in contrasty images when it's done PP, for sure. And in any case, if I can learn to get decent JPGs SOOC (or with minimal editing) it certainly would help my workflow when shooting sports on assignment.
I will report back...
Honestly, JPG is fantastic if you have the time to get your WB awesome and nail your exposure. Just keep your in-camera sharpening near zero, and your contrast down, ...then just two clicks to your blacks & contrast in Lightroom, and BAM your image pops with perfect in-camera Canon skin tones etc. Gorgeous. A little tougher to nail in-camera skin tones on Nikon, but yeah. I love it. It's a hobby pursuit, but a challenge I thoroughly enjoy nonetheless. It really helps around Thanksgiving / Christmas when family wants me to snap a bunch of photos of various stuff, but I just don't have the time to do more than shoot-and-upload... I've gone from taking 6 months to upload family pics, to just tossing them online after just a few minutes in Nikon View NX. (Or Canon DPP)
I still shoot RAW and process in Lightroom when rockin' a 3,000 image wedding, but it's just not as satisfying as nailing it in-camera and being able to upload it within a few minutes...
Matthew SavilleRegistered Users, Retired ModPosts: 3,352Major grins
edited March 25, 2012
I'm telling you, in about 6 months or less you'll wonder how on earth you ever lived with the mk2's AF system... ;-)
Gah I'm actually getting kinda jealous now, because there are two new features that are KILLER. One, you can do 100% zoom during instant playback now with one click, (page 252 of the 5D mk3 manual, I believe?) ...and two, apparently you can calibrate AF for zoom lenses AT BOTH ENDS OF THE ZOOM RNAGE!!!! OMG that is so flippin' awesome! I haven't heard any reports of the new Nikons having such a feature, but they better add one quick or I may be borrowing the studio's 5D mk3's for weddings...
Just got back from a weekend of skiing. AF exceeds all expectations.
100% crop:
Wow! If you're telling me this is the norm (shooter error notwithstanding) then I am seriously considering cancelling my pre-order on the 1Dx and buying a 5D3! I absolutely love my 5D2 in terms of IQ (beats my Mark IV) but am getting pretty tired of having just one AF point, and the number of shots that are not quite in focus. And hell, maybe the other shooters in the well won't laugh at me anymore for having a 5D-series sitting on my lap during the game!
Honestly, JPG is fantastic if you have the time to get your WB awesome and nail your exposure. Just keep your in-camera sharpening near zero, and your contrast down, ...then just two clicks to your blacks & contrast in Lightroom, and BAM your image pops with perfect in-camera Canon skin tones etc. Gorgeous.
Maybe I will give this a try by shooting RAW+JPG to start with. I am still pretty new to pro sports shooting, so I'd hate to have a bad set at the next game. Regarding WB, I have this pretty well dialed at the local stadiums for night games, along with exposure. New stadiums might be a problem. And I am used to using minimal sharpening because that's what the photoeditors want. It sounds like it's easy to up the contrasts with JPG--makes sense--but not easy to reduce it. I also tend to put in a good bit of fill light to brighten the images of night games and even out the gradients. I s'pose I could do this as well.
Thanks again for the advice--you are especially helpful *and* practical-minded!
Wow! If you're telling me this is the norm (shooter error notwithstanding) then I am seriously considering cancelling my pre-order on the 1Dx and buying a 5D3!
This seemed to be the norm, although the camera did get fooled from time to time, but for a good reason. On their approach the skiers would dip out of sight below the lip of the jump briefly, then re-emerge and take flight. Probably tough for any AF system, but the 5D3 handled it admirably. I didn't play around with all the AF modes of tracking speed, acceleration tracking, whatever. I just used a single point with the 8 surrounding points on as helpers. Seemed to work very well, better than my 7D or 1DIIN. 140 keepers from this ~45 minute session. I also tried not tracking the skiers' approach and just doing a quick "press-click" half then full press on the shutter button once they were in the air, and the results were similar either way. That was really amazing to me. When the AF nailed the shot, which was a very pleasing most of the time, it was dead on, at f/2.8.
I can't tell you to cancel your 1DX order, but if you don't need 10fps or the extra sealing, you could save $3300. 6fps isn't exactly fast, but it gets the job done a lot better than 3.9.
Seriously impressive. Are you saying that AF is now consistently fast and accurate using the 5D MKIII?
Yes. I was astounded by how well the camera did either by tracking or if I would quickly press-click the shutter while the skiers were in the air, without tracking them first.
I'm telling you, in about 6 months or less you'll wonder how on earth you ever lived with the mk2's AF system... ;-)
Well, I had a 1DIIN and then a 7D. I always reached for the 5D2 instead of those cameras for the sheer IQ and lens functionality unless I was shooting sports. I lived with it ok. But now I don't have to keep a 2nd body around just for one kind of shooting - yay!
Gah I'm actually getting kinda jealous now, because there are two new features that are KILLER.
Does Nikon provide auto AF point switching? I loved that on my 7D and the 5D3 has it. Camera will automatically switch AF points when you hold it in portrait or landscape orientation. If you enable that.
-Jack
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Comments
In camera HDR, straight JPG from camera. Some of the shots of my pals inside the plane are also HDR. It works great so long as your subject keeps still! No turbulence! Btw, I believe I was using the "Art Standard" HDR preset.
Great photos, does the HDR mode require multiple exposures?
Yes, it fires a 3 shot burst and then applies whatever type of HDR processing you've selected.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom and these awesome photos, Josh. After looking at your images, it does make me want to rethink my own workflow. The light is balanced on all your shots so wonderfully, and I know it's not all about the camera. Please post some pics in Landscape sometime if you get a chance.
Cheers,
-joel
Link to my Smugmug site
Exactly how I've been shooting on Nikon for years, and I LOVE it. I remember in 2007 when these "dynamic range boosting" features first came out, the difference wasn't very visible on Canon but Nikon had it's flippin' awesome "Active D-Lighting" feature that gave amazing results... Looks like Canon now has a flawless execution of this feature, and with the new generation of in-camera HDR's to boot. (BTW, can't the 5D mk3 shoot MORE than 3 clicks now, too? At MORE than just +2 and -2 stops? That was a huge thing with me and the 5D mk2, and a reason why I loved the 9-shot bracketing on my Nikons. And I think the 5D mk3 steps it up to 6EV's worth of bracketing, I'm not sure...)
I highly HIGHLY recommend at least culling your photos using the in-camera settings that our camera comes with, whether it be Nikon View NX, or Canon's programs. (Zoom browser? What's it called?) ...If the Canon program isn't fast enough for you, try Photomechanic. I don't know if Photomechanic allows you to export high-quality JPG's from a RAW file, but it at least allows you to access the quick JPG preview.
Or, of course, just buy an extra memory card and shoot RAW+JPG. But that's so oldschool!!!! You should be using your fancy new dual card slot system for fully redundant backup, if you can...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Josh, much thanks for sharing those awesome shots and your experience thus far with DPP 3.11.10.x and the III. Reading these posts is making it very difficult for me to wait. This next week might very well be one of the last times I use my 40D as my main body for a shoot. I'm soooo ready to update the thing. This costs me double, of course, because the wife will absolutely need that nice new Swiss Bernina sewing machine about the same time. But she deserves that too. The big flat screen TV might just have to wait another year (but luckily, those keep going down in price).
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
looks good
Yep. I am a huge fan of getting your stuff to look good in camera. You'll be a better photographer for it. Not to mention it saves you a ton of time in post production. My average wedding edit is 1-2 hours.
5D3 from a 40D is a HUGE jump! Wow. Be sure you have a decent collection of L glass before dropping $3.5k on a body. Glass before body, every time.
Give it a shot. Get to know your camera profiles and use them. White balance, WB shift, etc. I will share some AK beauty in the landscape forums soon. But, you should know, I am people photog at heart. I even get bored shooting the Northern Lights and have to break out some strobist action and get my portrait fix.
Sweet! It's a beautiful region, for sure. The stories we're getting during interviews with the native folks are so rich. The subsistence lifestyle is incredible.
Can anyone tell me how i can upgrade my photoshop cs5 software to read the new camera raw format that comes with the new Canon 5D mkiii.
http://www.dgrin.com/showpost.php?p=1756160&postcount=87
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slightly OT: Don't I recall you used to be in CA - did you move up there? I'm envious - Alaska is at the top of my "must see before I die" places for me (the others are St Petersburg, Russia, the Norwegia Fjords, and New Zealnd
To get back to 5dIII stuff - the ALO shots you posted above are going to prompt me to set it on my 7d. I have never used it (or DPP for conversion), but you've sold me on it. Since it ONLY shows up in raws if you edit in DPP it seems to me it's a no-brainer to turn it on so it's there if I ever need it. Thanks!!
In the meantime, trying to figure out how the heck I can afford one of these beauties. This camera really does look like the dream-machine we've all been hoping for
However, for those shots that don't have time pressure to process, it might make sense to add DPP to the PP mix. Quick question though: does ALO alter the camera exposure settings? Or just the curves on the rendered image? Or both?
I usually meter to capture the subject and whatever surrounding details are of interest. For example, if I am trying to do a portrait where the subject is fairly dark but there is a beautiful sky behind him/her, I'll meter so that the sky is not blown *and* there is still enough DR on the subject to bring up the quarter tones in PP. IOW, I think I may be doing what the camera does with ALO enabled, but not sure. Since the total DR of the sensor is a fixed quantity, and any image that comes off the sensor is ultimately limited by this DR, it seems to me that one should be able to achieve the same effect as ALO by judicious metering choices and some PP; that ALO may streamline the process and make the SOOC version of the shot better, but not provide anything that can't otherwise be had with some careful work with the camera and PP. Does this make sense? (I am constantly surprised by the subtlety and sophistication of cameras these days, so wouldn't be surprised to learn something new about this...)
BTW Josh--beautiful shots! I also took a look on your website, and love your work! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and expertise here!
Certainly. However, I would challenge you this:
Go shoot RAW+ JPG, and do the dynamic range thing you do with your normal Picture styles etc. Find something nice and contrasty. Then, turn ADL / DLO / ALO all the way to the max, and re-judge your exposure if necessary... Make sure your picture style has relatively normal or conservative colors and sharpening, of course, so that the JPG isn't a totally useless acid trip of an image. ;-)
Then, when you get back on the computer, take that JPG with the ALO etc. and try to match / beat it with the RAW file. You'll be VERY surprised, especially if you nail your white balance, just how awesome the in-camera JPG is. Or at least, you'll spend a good 5-15 minutes trying to make the RAW file look the same. It is NOT easy. I dunno what it is, but at least on Nikon and I'm sure now on Canon judging by the images I'm seeing; ...it is voodoo magic.
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Sounds like a very useful challenge! It does take some time to get things correct in contrasty images when it's done PP, for sure. And in any case, if I can learn to get decent JPGs SOOC (or with minimal editing) it certainly would help my workflow when shooting sports on assignment.
I will report back...
That is the original composition. You can't take that shot with a 5D2.
100% crop:
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
That is SERIOUS awesome!!
Honestly, JPG is fantastic if you have the time to get your WB awesome and nail your exposure. Just keep your in-camera sharpening near zero, and your contrast down, ...then just two clicks to your blacks & contrast in Lightroom, and BAM your image pops with perfect in-camera Canon skin tones etc. Gorgeous. A little tougher to nail in-camera skin tones on Nikon, but yeah. I love it. It's a hobby pursuit, but a challenge I thoroughly enjoy nonetheless. It really helps around Thanksgiving / Christmas when family wants me to snap a bunch of photos of various stuff, but I just don't have the time to do more than shoot-and-upload... I've gone from taking 6 months to upload family pics, to just tossing them online after just a few minutes in Nikon View NX. (Or Canon DPP)
I still shoot RAW and process in Lightroom when rockin' a 3,000 image wedding, but it's just not as satisfying as nailing it in-camera and being able to upload it within a few minutes...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Gah I'm actually getting kinda jealous now, because there are two new features that are KILLER. One, you can do 100% zoom during instant playback now with one click, (page 252 of the 5D mk3 manual, I believe?) ...and two, apparently you can calibrate AF for zoom lenses AT BOTH ENDS OF THE ZOOM RNAGE!!!! OMG that is so flippin' awesome! I haven't heard any reports of the new Nikons having such a feature, but they better add one quick or I may be borrowing the studio's 5D mk3's for weddings...
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Anyone in the market for a MKII? lol
Seriously impressive. Are you saying that AF is now consistently fast and accurate using the 5D MKIII?
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I am.
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Wow! If you're telling me this is the norm (shooter error notwithstanding) then I am seriously considering cancelling my pre-order on the 1Dx and buying a 5D3! I absolutely love my 5D2 in terms of IQ (beats my Mark IV) but am getting pretty tired of having just one AF point, and the number of shots that are not quite in focus. And hell, maybe the other shooters in the well won't laugh at me anymore for having a 5D-series sitting on my lap during the game!
Maybe I will give this a try by shooting RAW+JPG to start with. I am still pretty new to pro sports shooting, so I'd hate to have a bad set at the next game. Regarding WB, I have this pretty well dialed at the local stadiums for night games, along with exposure. New stadiums might be a problem. And I am used to using minimal sharpening because that's what the photoeditors want. It sounds like it's easy to up the contrasts with JPG--makes sense--but not easy to reduce it. I also tend to put in a good bit of fill light to brighten the images of night games and even out the gradients. I s'pose I could do this as well.
Thanks again for the advice--you are especially helpful *and* practical-minded!
It sounds like the 5D MKIII is going to be a game changer.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
http://jmphotocraft.smugmug.com/Sports/Sugarloaf-Terrain-Park-3242012
This seemed to be the norm, although the camera did get fooled from time to time, but for a good reason. On their approach the skiers would dip out of sight below the lip of the jump briefly, then re-emerge and take flight. Probably tough for any AF system, but the 5D3 handled it admirably. I didn't play around with all the AF modes of tracking speed, acceleration tracking, whatever. I just used a single point with the 8 surrounding points on as helpers. Seemed to work very well, better than my 7D or 1DIIN. 140 keepers from this ~45 minute session. I also tried not tracking the skiers' approach and just doing a quick "press-click" half then full press on the shutter button once they were in the air, and the results were similar either way. That was really amazing to me. When the AF nailed the shot, which was a very pleasing most of the time, it was dead on, at f/2.8.
I can't tell you to cancel your 1DX order, but if you don't need 10fps or the extra sealing, you could save $3300. 6fps isn't exactly fast, but it gets the job done a lot better than 3.9.
Yes. I was astounded by how well the camera did either by tracking or if I would quickly press-click the shutter while the skiers were in the air, without tracking them first.
Well, I had a 1DIIN and then a 7D. I always reached for the 5D2 instead of those cameras for the sheer IQ and lens functionality unless I was shooting sports. I lived with it ok. But now I don't have to keep a 2nd body around just for one kind of shooting - yay!
Does Nikon provide auto AF point switching? I loved that on my 7D and the 5D3 has it. Camera will automatically switch AF points when you hold it in portrait or landscape orientation. If you enable that.
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
If so, is it also limited to centre point only?
pp
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read the _ manual: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii#BrochuresAndManuals
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.