Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited July 9, 2008
If anyone is visiting Venice California, stop by THE G2 GALLERY and view some landscapes. I will have 10 pieces in the show that incluces some incredible shooters.
a couple of questions? (im guessing you are on location somewhere, so i would think it could be awhile for a reply)
canon 24mm T/S lens:
1. i keep thinking about that retrofit preformed on your T/S lens.
im just not getting the benefit you get from having the tilt in-line with the shift. its making my brain hurt...
is there a easy discription to explain why you did this?
2. focusing is also another topic...should i focus at the FG subject first and then tilt to get the BG in focus? ive been trying many different ways and cant seem to get focus just right... sometimes it seems that the best focus is when i have no tilt at all...so im assuming i am doing something wrong.
thanks a million!
Aaron Nelson
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Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited July 16, 2008
Aaron,
Here in my studio:D
The retrofit for the T/S is simple. By having the tilt on the same axes as the shift, you can lower/shift the lens down to see more of the FG. Then when you want the FG in focus as well as the BG you can tilt the top of the lens forward thus throwing the plan of focus, top away from the camera. When you are attempting to preview focus changes made by the tilt, it will be difficult to see, as most of the time I am tilting only 1 to 2mm, which is one or two of the tiny lines engraved on the side of the lens. I always begin by focusing with no tilt. I then focus on the FG, next make the tilt, then finally focus in a bit which means focusing away from the lens usually. The last adj is made to acquire what is called the hyper focal distance. The distance from the lens which represents the medium between the closest point and the distant point in focus.
I dont have experience with the viewfinders:cry Although, on my 1ds M3 I now use the live view and it works better than ever
The lens ships from Canon for architecture, meaning that after you shift up or down the only tilt you can make is sideways for walls and sides of buildings.
i see. ive been trying to produce an end result using the lens incorrectly.
i see the light now, thanks so much. i will try to retrofit my lens tonight...:D
i see. ive been trying to produce an end result using the lens incorrectly.
i see the light now, thanks so much. i will try to retrofit my lens tonight since i will be at toroweap north rim tommorrow....:D
There are instructions do this on the web and it's pretty simple. You do need a fairly small screw driver though. Get a good quality driver as the screws are in fairly tight.
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
other problem is i use this lens for both ls & arch so i guess i will be wearing out some screws...
thanks for the info.
Aaron Nelson
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Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited July 25, 2008
Just spent the week teaching a class at the Lepp Institute on painting with light, and we had much fun To all those in the class, I hope to see some work here and I really enjoyed all of your enthusiasm
Marc, i sure would like to see the painting with light techniques used. i can only guess how to do this
i would like to try this painting with light at bryce canyon "thors hammer" (i have not seen it done yet)(has it been done by someone alreqady?)
Marc, i sure would like to see the painting with light techniques used. i can only guess how to do this
i would like to try this painting with light at bryce canyon "thors hammer" (i have not seen it done yet)(has it been done by someone alreqady?)
i truly wished i could. i can only do one day...(oct 2nd). my on-call @ work is just a killer to my freedom.
do you take one day/evening sign up's?....
or is this the workshop with the waiting list and your just rubbing it in? lol
i truly wished i could. i can only do one day...(oct 2nd). my on-call @ work is just a killer to my freedom.
do you take one day/evening sign up's?....
or is this the workshop with the waiting list and your just rubbing it in? lol
Sorry about your work schedule. Yeah, it's all or nothing, I'm afraid.
with digital cameras and all our tools (i.e. acr, ps, etc) are warming filters really necessary for "Fall Colors"?
Aaron,
on camer filters warm the entire image or the global image. I like to color correct in regions later in post. I use the quick mask techniques we illustrated at the print workshop. However, it does take some time to refine the skill to understand just where to make color changes, as all digital image files need regional refinement, I think:D
So the answer is no if you can make your selective corrections in post.
Regarding painting with light, it can be simple but for predictable great results you really need to hone your skills. First rec, use halogen bulb flashlights, for that warm glow.
I came down with a case of Pneumonia after the the class. Not sure where it came from but I suspect the Sea Pines Inn. I'm doing better now, taking antibotic's twice a day.
Regards,
Chris
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Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited August 3, 2008
Sorry to hear that Chris. I stayed there as well, though so far so good. The things we endure for photography
Can you give the ball head,clap, pano gear and tripod make and model you use. I looking to buy more camera equipment.
Thanks,
Chris
Chris,
I use the Really Right Stuff BH55 ball head on a Slick tripod. I will update this post with the exact model of the tripod once I get back into my studio. I also use the RRS, PLC 1 with nodel slide MPR CL. Here is the scoop!
The other option for you would be the slightly smaller ball head model BH 40.
I use the Really Right Stuff BH55 ball head on a Slick tripod. I will update this post with the exact model of the tripod once I get back into my studio. I also use the RRS, PLC 1 with nodel slide MPR CL. Here is the scoop!
The other option for you would be the slightly smaller ball head model BH 40.
I use the RRS BH40 and can recommend it most highly
I use the RRS BH40 and can recommend it most highly
remember, the only reason you need the -55 is if you are using 300mm or longer lenses, predominately - or if you really, really need the knob vs. the lever.
I've used both, extensively. And I'm convinced that the BH-40 is right for me, I don't shoot long lenses. If I do, I'll get a BH-55
In fact, I shaved another 1/3 lb off my rig, by removing the LR Clamp, and just fitting my pano clamp on the ball head. The LR clamp is easy to take off, put back on, and certainly has it's uses but for me, I'll happily sacrifice the convenience of a few seconds per shot setup, in favor of saving 1/3lb +/-. I'm going on a trip where ounces matter
In fact, I shaved another 1/3 lb off my rig, by removing the LR Clamp, and just fitting my pano clamp on the ball head. The LR clamp is easy to take off, put back on, and certainly has it's uses but for me, I'll happily sacrifice the convenience of a few seconds per shot setup, in favor of saving 1/3lb +/-. I'm going on a trip where ounces matter
now there's a thought I hadn't considered...which pano head are you using Andy?
I use the Really Right Stuff BH55 ball head on a Slick tripod. I will update this post with the exact model of the tripod once I get back into my studio. I also use the RRS, PLC 1 with nodel slide MPR CL. Here is the scoop!
The other option for you would be the slightly smaller ball head model BH 40.
Comments
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
a couple of questions? (im guessing you are on location somewhere, so i would think it could be awhile for a reply)
canon 24mm T/S lens:
1. i keep thinking about that retrofit preformed on your T/S lens.
im just not getting the benefit you get from having the tilt in-line with the shift. its making my brain hurt...
is there a easy discription to explain why you did this?
2. focusing is also another topic...should i focus at the FG subject first and then tilt to get the BG in focus? ive been trying many different ways and cant seem to get focus just right... sometimes it seems that the best focus is when i have no tilt at all...so im assuming i am doing something wrong.
thanks a million!
Here in my studio:D
The retrofit for the T/S is simple. By having the tilt on the same axes as the shift, you can lower/shift the lens down to see more of the FG. Then when you want the FG in focus as well as the BG you can tilt the top of the lens forward thus throwing the plan of focus, top away from the camera. When you are attempting to preview focus changes made by the tilt, it will be difficult to see, as most of the time I am tilting only 1 to 2mm, which is one or two of the tiny lines engraved on the side of the lens. I always begin by focusing with no tilt. I then focus on the FG, next make the tilt, then finally focus in a bit which means focusing away from the lens usually. The last adj is made to acquire what is called the hyper focal distance. The distance from the lens which represents the medium between the closest point and the distant point in focus.
I dont have experience with the viewfinders:cry Although, on my 1ds M3 I now use the live view and it works better than ever
The lens ships from Canon for architecture, meaning that after you shift up or down the only tilt you can make is sideways for walls and sides of buildings.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
i see the light now, thanks so much. i will try to retrofit my lens tonight...:D
http://www.getdpi.com/tse_swap.html
other problem is i use this lens for both ls & arch so i guess i will be wearing out some screws...
thanks for the info.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Marc,
Here's one of mine. You had a great assistant on the oak tree photo!
Good to hear from you and glad you poster your shot
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Your welcome and I really enjoyed the class. I learn a lot!
I sent my photograph in for publication. I have my fingers crossed.
-Chris
My Gallery
i would like to try this painting with light at bryce canyon "thors hammer" (i have not seen it done yet)(has it been done by someone alreqady?)
so anyway, when are we going?....:D
Aaron,
We'll be painting with light on the Return of Wild Utah trip, for sure.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
do you take one day/evening sign up's?....
or is this the workshop with the waiting list and your just rubbing it in? lol
Sorry about your work schedule. Yeah, it's all or nothing, I'm afraid.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
while im here....
Marc, a question ive been trying to figure out myself but i would like to ask you for your thoughts.
with digital cameras and all our tools (i.e. acr, ps, etc) are warming filters really necessary for "Fall Colors"?
im preparing for this years fall events and i just want to make sure i benefit from proper use of my equipment.
Aaron,
on camer filters warm the entire image or the global image. I like to color correct in regions later in post. I use the quick mask techniques we illustrated at the print workshop. However, it does take some time to refine the skill to understand just where to make color changes, as all digital image files need regional refinement, I think:D
So the answer is no if you can make your selective corrections in post.
Regarding painting with light, it can be simple but for predictable great results you really need to hone your skills. First rec, use halogen bulb flashlights, for that warm glow.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
FYI
Marc,
I came down with a case of Pneumonia after the the class. Not sure where it came from but I suspect the Sea Pines Inn. I'm doing better now, taking antibotic's twice a day.
Regards,
Chris
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Marc,
Can you give the ball head,clap, pano gear and tripod make and model you use. I looking to buy more camera equipment.
Thanks,
Chris
Chris,
I use the Really Right Stuff BH55 ball head on a Slick tripod. I will update this post with the exact model of the tripod once I get back into my studio. I also use the RRS, PLC 1 with nodel slide MPR CL. Here is the scoop!
The other option for you would be the slightly smaller ball head model BH 40.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
I use the RRS BH40 and can recommend it most highly
...pics..
The Slik 883 CF-D:
http://www.samys.com/product_detail.php?item=8036
I got it too (on Marc's recommendation) and it's great. Light, sturdy, tall, and comfortable to carry.
You do need a bushing to attach the RRS head to the threading on it, however. Remember this or your toys won't play well together.
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I've used both, extensively. And I'm convinced that the BH-40 is right for me, I don't shoot long lenses. If I do, I'll get a BH-55
In fact, I shaved another 1/3 lb off my rig, by removing the LR Clamp, and just fitting my pano clamp on the ball head. The LR clamp is easy to take off, put back on, and certainly has it's uses but for me, I'll happily sacrifice the convenience of a few seconds per shot setup, in favor of saving 1/3lb +/-. I'm going on a trip where ounces matter
Portfolio • Workshops • Facebook • Twitter
now there's a thought I hadn't considered...which pano head are you using Andy?
...pics..
http://www.moonriverphotography.com/gear
Portfolio • Workshops • Facebook • Twitter
Thanks for all of the responses!
I have a couple extra reducing bushings that I can spare. PM me if you need it. Here's where I got my Slik 883 leg set.
Cuong