That hillside looks familiar! That was with a P&S??
Marc I am having trouble "building" my compositions with the TS panos. I forgot to ask before if you had any nuggets of wisdom to share about approaching a landscape subject with the two-frame pano in mind. If there is a trick to it, I've been missing it...
That hillside looks familiar! That was with a P&S??
Marc I am having trouble "building" my compositions with the TS panos. I forgot to ask before if you had any nuggets of wisdom to share about approaching a landscape subject with the two-frame pano in mind. If there is a trick to it, I've been missing it...
I understand the frustration. Try thinking of framing subjects with a template. I use the side by side two image stitch for a horrizontal most and the square second. With those two aspect ratios in mind, Use 4 ply black mount board to make two separate view finders, each about 4x6 in total size but with windows cut to match the aspect ratios. These can be held up to your eye at about 6 or so inches, and with one eye closed move around to find the composition. I used to do this for my 4x5, 6x17 and 8x10 field cameras
Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited November 4, 2007
Canon G9
In my quest to find the perfect point and shoot I have upgraded from my SD800 to a Canon G9
Way cool features include:
1. The very coolest ever is, in manual mode, the shutter speed and aperature are easy to adjust and when adjusting them the display adjusts luminosity according to the esposure, making it the simplest camera I have ever used in manual modethumb
2. Small enough aperature for a star, F8:ivar
3. RAW 12 mp files
4. 28mm and 420mm lens adaptors, that are acutally sharp
6. There are many other cool bells and whistles but what really brought this all on was my desire for a small VERY light weight system to take on extreme hikes and mountain climbs.
Also, I have the small ball head and brand new L bracket for it from RRS. I plan on purchasing the teeny tiny Gitso tripod as well. When finished I will be able to stitch a Mega Pano from a camer system weighing less than 3 pounds
Here is my first two image stitch with the camera taken in the hills above my house just this AM.
I like the G9 also, Marc, but i had not thought of using it for panos.
You say RRS has the L bracket for it already, as well??
You're gonna be wanting 8Gb SD cards then too:D
Yes, the L bracket is so very light and with the manual mode this camera makes panos easy, yes 8bg cards will help as the sizes of the RAW files are just under 15mb.
Schmoo,
Yes, that big honkin M11 is looking larger and larger the more I shoot with this thing. However, what I am after is a certain camera for a certain type and or style of image. The high resolution SLR with the beautiful glass attached will always create a high quality image and that works wonders for my large landscapes, action sports and commercial shoots. However, what I have noticed is while working with the SD800, I experience a freedom to experiment more. The point and shoot style creates a more editorial journalistic approach for me. Shooting hand held is a large part of that experience but what it really does for me is allow me to hold the camera up to compose with the screen rather than looking through the view finder. I find this method of composing more thorough for this style of shooting.
In its efficiency, the G9 allows me to work with the screen in hand held mode while also giving me the option of going to a tripod to create a multi image stitched landscape. So it is a kind of hyprid that I figured worth experimenting with:ivar
Wow Marc, what is that a picture of? Hopefully not a moving pano falling down after taking the previous sunrise shot. I like it though, very abstract.
For the same reasons of portability I'm always torn between bringing the big camera and the little point and shoot, no matter where I go. (although the general rule is if I have one camera, a situation arises where I will need the other) So my ears are sufficiently perked to hear and see what you find with this new approach!
Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited November 6, 2007
Schmoo,
I agree with you that we find what we are looking for. Until I know just what combination of abstract and realism works for what I am attempting I will offer myself the camera with the most freedom. I guess I have always been a minimalist. For years I only used a tripod unless absolutely necessary. Clients used the 6x7 and 4x5 chromes with no mention of a problem. Then when I began drum scanning my film and viewing the chromes at 100% I noticed slight camera movement and had to make an effort to work from a tripod. I have been using a tripod since, with a perpetual lust for the most efficient one I could find. Now that new technology has arrived I find myself looking into reverting back to the freedom of handheld. That new technology is Internal stablized lenses, combined with faster ISO and wide varriety of focal lengths. With new technology comes such freedoms but unless they are understood they are never considered a freedom. At this point there appears to be two defining styles in landscape photography, one I can only refer to as Super Realism, where everything is perfect. Perfect contrast and color in every section of the image, much like impressionistic paintings. The other more abstract, including such techniques as shutter drag, blurr motion, extreme macro and so on. With all this floatin around, I am exploring possiblities.
Marc, you commented about holding up the LCD and looking at the LCD screen versus looking through a viewfinder in an SLR earlier. You made a similar comment when looking at some of my P&S images from Glacier. You suggested tossing my SLR I think:D
Do you feel that composing on an LCD is more like composing on a matte glass plate in a view camera, versus the more 3D like image you see though a typical SLR pentaprism? It is funny that the SLRs were developed to give a view more similar to that of a view camera versus that of a range finder, isn't it?
I find that I like composing on an LCD too, if I can see it clearly in the lighting. It seems more abstract, less emotionally involving, easier to compose than peering through a pentaprism. Not really sure why this should be true, but it is my impression.
It is, certainly, much easier to get very, very low to the ground, or very, very close to a surface with the G9 and its LCD, than with a humongous DSLR and a big hunk of glass. You do not need a right angle finder to use the G9 in these situations. Bracing the G9 on a surface, gets the lens axis within just a couple centimeters from the surface, and the extra DOF of the smaller image circle can be a real advantage also.
This would be hard to do without a ladder with a DSLR, but easy with a G9
Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited November 9, 2007
Jim,
Nothing is like looking through the ground glass of a 4x5 well except watching a dark movie while hanging from the rafters
I do think composing with the lcd is closer to the 2 dimensional print. In addition I feel closer to my surroundings and not so removed as by looking through the viewfinder of a slr.
Just printed my first 60", three G9 files, stitched, print today could not believe my eyes. I just may leave the big cameras behind once in a while. Tomorrow it is on to the new Naked light to see if the print might get even better
DavidTO point out the new software site - Naked Light - What can you tell us about it? I can't seem to find out much beyond what is on its website. Does it have backing by Apple, perhaps?
It does require Leopard, so your G4 that you had in Glacier may not be up to running it. The website says there is still 47 minutes until is the Beta version is available.
The drop down menus displayed on the website, seem to resemble those seen in Aperture in overall appearance........
DavidTO point out the new software site - Naked Light - What can you tell us about it? I can't seem to find out much beyond what is on its website. Does it have backing by Apple, perhaps?
It does require Leopard, so your G4 that you had in Glacier may not be up to running it. The website says there is still 47 minutes until is the Beta version is available.
The drop down menus displayed on the website, seem to resemble those seen in Aperture in overall appearance........
It appears to resemble the very old program that we actually owned at one point called "Live Picture". LP allowed you to work very fast by not rasterizing anything until you were complete and hit the "export" button, then it was all up to the speed of your computer to complete the job. I don't know who is behind it or much else other then the concept of not being able to destroy an image is probably a marketing ploy, as we all know any image can be destroyed! I believe that the reality is, one can simply undo where they have gone wrong, which would be similar to a endless history in photoshop, but much more efficient if it were layers/nodes that could be manipulated. i have a hunch that this will take some time before it is possible to replace photoshop and by that time I most definitely think Adobe will have an answer. I plan on looking into this and will share what I find.
Yes, the L bracket is so very light and with the manual mode this camera makes panos easy, yes 8bg cards will help as the sizes of the RAW files are just under 15mb.
Schmoo,
Yes, that big honkin M11 is looking larger and larger the more I shoot with this thing. However, what I am after is a certain camera for a certain type and or style of image. The high resolution SLR with the beautiful glass attached will always create a high quality image and that works wonders for my large landscapes, action sports and commercial shoots. However, what I have noticed is while working with the SD800, I experience a freedom to experiment more. The point and shoot style creates a more editorial journalistic approach for me. Shooting hand held is a large part of that experience but what it really does for me is allow me to hold the camera up to compose with the screen rather than looking through the view finder. I find this method of composing more thorough for this style of shooting.
In its efficiency, the G9 allows me to work with the screen in hand held mode while also giving me the option of going to a tripod to create a multi image stitched landscape. So it is a kind of hybrid that I figured worth experimenting with:ivar
So, I gotta say, I'm really excited to have the Canon G9 and the RRS Bracket. Not only for the reasons you mention, Mark - say for an expedition where weight is a paramount concern.... but also...as a great '2nd Body' - for years I've had 2 big DSLRs... just in case one went out, I've got the spare. Now, I can be confident, taking this along for the ride as not only a fun P&S, but also as a serious 2nd camera, in case the primary DSLR goes kaput for some reason.
That, and it's about a $800-$1000 swing minimum vs. a 2nd body.
So, I gotta say, I'm really excited to have the Canon G9 and the RRS Bracket. Not only for the reasons you mention, Mark - say for an expedition where weight is a paramount concern.... but also...as a great '2nd Body' - for years I've had 2 big DSLRs... just in case one went out, I've got the spare. Now, I can be confident, taking this along for the ride as not only a fun P&S, but also as a serious 2nd camera, in case the primary DSLR goes kaput for some reason.
That, and it's about a $800-$1000 swing minimum vs. a 2nd body.
Try the 1024 video setting, just incase you want to post something on Utube, or the time lapse feature. VERY COOL features
The G9's AVI movie mode allows users to record video clips at 640x480 @ 30 fps (up to 4GB or 1 hour) or 1024x768 @ 15fps (up to 4GB or 1 hour) – and several lower resolution video options, and Time Lapse at 640x480 @ 0.5/1fps with playback @15fps.
Try the 1024 video setting, just incase you want to post something on Utube, or the time lapse feature. VERY COOL features
The G9's AVI movie mode allows users to record video clips at 640x480 @ 30 fps (up to 4GB or 1 hour) or 1024x768 @ 15fps (up to 4GB or 1 hour) – and several lower resolution video options, and Time Lapse at 640x480 @ 0.5/1fps with playback @15fps.
Beth and I are taking a backpacking trip through eastern europe (bratislava to athens via rail ) and I think this camera, a few large SD cards, and a gorillapod are coming along for the ride!
Y'all don't want to hear me, you just want to dance.
2008 Calendar
So I was @ Borders tonite looking for a 2008 calendar. Usually I get B+W urban or desolate type of theme, but I saw a color one of National Parks, with a great shot on the front. Looked at the other months, saw places I've been (GC, Sequioa, Blue Ridge), places I'm going (Arches) , places I want to go (Mt Ranier) and.... well I'll be damned! These pictures are all by Marc & David Muench.
Really nice large (slightly oversized) calendar and images, excellent color, done by browntrout publishers. Buy one. Support your local Photographer.
Interestingly enough, the first time I saw Marc's work published after he became an artist-in-residence was when I was at the North Rim GC last June. There was a tourist/visitor's guide for Utah's Parks on the table in my room. And most (all?) of the photo credits were for Marc.
"Don't ask me what I think of you, I might not give the answer that you want me to. Oh well."
-Fleetwood Mac
Thanks to the holiday season I have a bit of $$ to burn at B&H and was thinking about getting myself a split ND filter system, particularly since the Scotland workshop is coming up. What is your take on these? I recall you have talked a bit about the dislike of artificial lines that they can create in your composition. Aside from this, how do you feel about them as landscape photographer's tools? Do you feel as though they're worth toting around or do you prefer to bracket your exposures and blend them in PP?
Marc MuenchRegistered UsersPosts: 1,420Major grins
edited January 3, 2008
Schmoo,
I prefer to bracket exposures and blend in Photoshop. But the effects from the gradated split ND of about 4 or 6 stops can look pretty zainny cool
Fact is, they work real well when the horizon is straight. If not then you can make your exposure longer and wiggle the filter up and down to make the gradation even less apparent. If you don't have one get yourself a flash and the extension chord. This could come in handy to flash fill a foreground during those real dark wet days.
Thanks to the holiday season I have a bit of $$ to burn at B&H and was thinking about getting myself a split ND filter system, particularly since the Scotland workshop is coming up. What is your take on these? I recall you have talked a bit about the dislike of artificial lines that they can create in your composition. Aside from this, how do you feel about them as landscape photographer's tools? Do you feel as though they're worth toting around or do you prefer to bracket your exposures and blend them in PP?
Schmoo,
If you decide to get some filters get the oversized "P" style filters. This allows you to move them up and down infront of the lens. I think the two and three stop splits from Singh-Ray are very good, but $$$$.. I think splits are very handy and can get the exposure very close for the sky.... Remember that they make the filters in both "hard" and "soft" versions... I basically prefer the soft version but have both. Hope this helps and have fun shopping. Maybe you can teach Marc how to use them in Scotland....
If you decide to get some filters get the oversized "P" style filters. This allows you to move them up and down infront of the lens. I think the two and three stop splits from Singh-Ray are very good, but $$$$.. I think splits are very handy and can get the exposure very close for the sky.... Remember that they make the filters in both "hard" and "soft" versions... I basically prefer the soft version but have both. Hope this helps and have fun shopping. Maybe you can teach Marc how to use them in Scotland....
Dave
Thanks for the input (and advice), Dave! I still have not decided if I'm going to go for the filters or something else entirely. At the moment I'm not sure I want to spend more time fiddling with them in the field or making sure I don't accidentally chimp out my bracketed exposures, then spending the time in PP. Tough choice! But I see great landscapes from people who don't use them (i.e. Marc) and great landscapes from people who do. Hmm.
Funny you should bring this up Schmoo, I've been mmming and ahhhing about whether to take my (not particularly good) filter system with me on the Scotland Trip.
I have to be honest I've hardly used them, I've tried a couple of times but after dropping them, getting finger prints on them and generally making a complete hash of it I've returned to bracketing and blending.
Having read Marc's comments above about his preference for bracketing I think I might continue down this route.
I haven't read the whole thread just the last few pages so forgive me if this has already been asked: what do you think of the UWA lenses & do you use them much?
I know you use TS lenses but the 24 doesn't appeal to me as I just don't think the current version has the IQ to keep up with the forthcoming generation of sensors. The reason I ask is that Im toying with the idea of getting the 14mmk2
I have the 17-40 but find the corners too soft to my liking. I do wonder though whether the 14 is something that I would actually use enough to warrent the cost i.e. would it just be too wide?. I know only I can decide that but I would noneltheless be interested in exoerienced photographers like you giving me their input
Comments
Marc I am having trouble "building" my compositions with the TS panos. I forgot to ask before if you had any nuggets of wisdom to share about approaching a landscape subject with the two-frame pano in mind. If there is a trick to it, I've been missing it...
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I understand the frustration. Try thinking of framing subjects with a template. I use the side by side two image stitch for a horrizontal most and the square second. With those two aspect ratios in mind, Use 4 ply black mount board to make two separate view finders, each about 4x6 in total size but with windows cut to match the aspect ratios. These can be held up to your eye at about 6 or so inches, and with one eye closed move around to find the composition. I used to do this for my 4x5, 6x17 and 8x10 field cameras
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
In my quest to find the perfect point and shoot I have upgraded from my SD800 to a Canon G9
Way cool features include:
1. The very coolest ever is, in manual mode, the shutter speed and aperature are easy to adjust and when adjusting them the display adjusts luminosity according to the esposure, making it the simplest camera I have ever used in manual mode
2. Small enough aperature for a star, F8:ivar
3. RAW 12 mp files
4. 28mm and 420mm lens adaptors, that are acutally sharp
6. There are many other cool bells and whistles but what really brought this all on was my desire for a small VERY light weight system to take on extreme hikes and mountain climbs.
Also, I have the small ball head and brand new L bracket for it from RRS. I plan on purchasing the teeny tiny Gitso tripod as well. When finished I will be able to stitch a Mega Pano from a camer system weighing less than 3 pounds
Here is my first two image stitch with the camera taken in the hills above my house just this AM.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
I hope it works out well for you.
You say RRS has the L bracket for it already, as well??
You're gonna be wanting 8Gb SD cards then too:D
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
That's a really nice pano from a point and shoot. Wow. The beautiful light doesn't hurt either.
Are you going to leave the 1D at home now??
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
Schmoo,
Yes, that big honkin M11 is looking larger and larger the more I shoot with this thing. However, what I am after is a certain camera for a certain type and or style of image. The high resolution SLR with the beautiful glass attached will always create a high quality image and that works wonders for my large landscapes, action sports and commercial shoots. However, what I have noticed is while working with the SD800, I experience a freedom to experiment more. The point and shoot style creates a more editorial journalistic approach for me. Shooting hand held is a large part of that experience but what it really does for me is allow me to hold the camera up to compose with the screen rather than looking through the view finder. I find this method of composing more thorough for this style of shooting.
In its efficiency, the G9 allows me to work with the screen in hand held mode while also giving me the option of going to a tripod to create a multi image stitched landscape. So it is a kind of hyprid that I figured worth experimenting with:ivar
Another kind of point and shoot stitch.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
For the same reasons of portability I'm always torn between bringing the big camera and the little point and shoot, no matter where I go. (although the general rule is if I have one camera, a situation arises where I will need the other) So my ears are sufficiently perked to hear and see what you find with this new approach!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I agree with you that we find what we are looking for. Until I know just what combination of abstract and realism works for what I am attempting I will offer myself the camera with the most freedom. I guess I have always been a minimalist. For years I only used a tripod unless absolutely necessary. Clients used the 6x7 and 4x5 chromes with no mention of a problem. Then when I began drum scanning my film and viewing the chromes at 100% I noticed slight camera movement and had to make an effort to work from a tripod. I have been using a tripod since, with a perpetual lust for the most efficient one I could find. Now that new technology has arrived I find myself looking into reverting back to the freedom of handheld. That new technology is Internal stablized lenses, combined with faster ISO and wide varriety of focal lengths. With new technology comes such freedoms but unless they are understood they are never considered a freedom. At this point there appears to be two defining styles in landscape photography, one I can only refer to as Super Realism, where everything is perfect. Perfect contrast and color in every section of the image, much like impressionistic paintings. The other more abstract, including such techniques as shutter drag, blurr motion, extreme macro and so on. With all this floatin around, I am exploring possiblities.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Do you feel that composing on an LCD is more like composing on a matte glass plate in a view camera, versus the more 3D like image you see though a typical SLR pentaprism? It is funny that the SLRs were developed to give a view more similar to that of a view camera versus that of a range finder, isn't it?
I find that I like composing on an LCD too, if I can see it clearly in the lighting. It seems more abstract, less emotionally involving, easier to compose than peering through a pentaprism. Not really sure why this should be true, but it is my impression.
It is, certainly, much easier to get very, very low to the ground, or very, very close to a surface with the G9 and its LCD, than with a humongous DSLR and a big hunk of glass. You do not need a right angle finder to use the G9 in these situations. Bracing the G9 on a surface, gets the lens axis within just a couple centimeters from the surface, and the extra DOF of the smaller image circle can be a real advantage also.
This would be hard to do without a ladder with a DSLR, but easy with a G9
I ordered my L bracket for the G9 this evening.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Nothing is like looking through the ground glass of a 4x5
I do think composing with the lcd is closer to the 2 dimensional print. In addition I feel closer to my surroundings and not so removed as by looking through the viewfinder of a slr.
Just printed my first 60", three G9 files, stitched, print today
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
DavidTO point out the new software site - Naked Light - What can you tell us about it? I can't seem to find out much beyond what is on its website. Does it have backing by Apple, perhaps?
It does require Leopard, so your G4 that you had in Glacier may not be up to running it. The website says there is still 47 minutes until is the Beta version is available.
The drop down menus displayed on the website, seem to resemble those seen in Aperture in overall appearance........
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
It appears to resemble the very old program that we actually owned at one point called "Live Picture". LP allowed you to work very fast by not rasterizing anything until you were complete and hit the "export" button, then it was all up to the speed of your computer to complete the job. I don't know who is behind it or much else other then the concept of not being able to destroy an image is probably a marketing ploy, as we all know any image can be destroyed! I believe that the reality is, one can simply undo where they have gone wrong, which would be similar to a endless history in photoshop, but much more efficient if it were layers/nodes that could be manipulated. i have a hunch that this will take some time before it is possible to replace photoshop and by that time I most definitely think Adobe will have an answer. I plan on looking into this and will share what I find.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
So, I gotta say, I'm really excited to have the Canon G9 and the RRS Bracket. Not only for the reasons you mention, Mark - say for an expedition where weight is a paramount concern.... but also...as a great '2nd Body' - for years I've had 2 big DSLRs... just in case one went out, I've got the spare. Now, I can be confident, taking this along for the ride as not only a fun P&S, but also as a serious 2nd camera, in case the primary DSLR goes kaput for some reason.
That, and it's about a $800-$1000 swing minimum vs. a 2nd body.
Portfolio • Workshops • Facebook • Twitter
Try the 1024 video setting, just incase you want to post something on Utube, or the time lapse feature. VERY COOL features
The G9's AVI movie mode allows users to record video clips at 640x480 @ 30 fps (up to 4GB or 1 hour) or 1024x768 @ 15fps (up to 4GB or 1 hour) – and several lower resolution video options, and Time Lapse at 640x480 @ 0.5/1fps with playback @15fps.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
http://photos.mikelanestudios.com/
Dude. SmugMug has the HD Video Hawtness
Portfolio • Workshops • Facebook • Twitter
:jawdrop
Way to go SmugMug
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Portfolio • Workshops • Facebook • Twitter
Gallery of mine...caution, it's under CONSTANT construction! | Photo Journal
In the right light, at the right time, everything is extraordinary. ~Aaron Rose
So I was @ Borders tonite looking for a 2008 calendar. Usually I get B+W urban or desolate type of theme, but I saw a color one of National Parks, with a great shot on the front. Looked at the other months, saw places I've been (GC, Sequioa, Blue Ridge), places I'm going (Arches) , places I want to go (Mt Ranier) and.... well I'll be damned! These pictures are all by Marc & David Muench.
Really nice large (slightly oversized) calendar and images, excellent color, done by browntrout publishers. Buy one. Support your local Photographer.
Interestingly enough, the first time I saw Marc's work published after he became an artist-in-residence was when I was at the North Rim GC last June. There was a tourist/visitor's guide for Utah's Parks on the table in my room. And most (all?) of the photo credits were for Marc.
-Fleetwood Mac
Thanks to the holiday season I have a bit of $$ to burn at B&H and was thinking about getting myself a split ND filter system, particularly since the Scotland workshop is coming up. What is your take on these? I recall you have talked a bit about the dislike of artificial lines that they can create in your composition. Aside from this, how do you feel about them as landscape photographer's tools? Do you feel as though they're worth toting around or do you prefer to bracket your exposures and blend them in PP?
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I prefer to bracket exposures and blend in Photoshop. But the effects from the gradated split ND of about 4 or 6 stops can look pretty zainny cool
Fact is, they work real well when the horizon is straight. If not then you can make your exposure longer and wiggle the filter up and down to make the gradation even less apparent. If you don't have one get yourself a flash and the extension chord. This could come in handy to flash fill a foreground during those real dark wet days.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
The one I am using is made by Canon and is about 4' streatched. For what I use it for I just want an arms length.
Muench Workshops
MW on Facebook
Schmoo,
If you decide to get some filters get the oversized "P" style filters. This allows you to move them up and down infront of the lens. I think the two and three stop splits from Singh-Ray are very good, but $$$$.. I think splits are very handy and can get the exposure very close for the sky.... Remember that they make the filters in both "hard" and "soft" versions... I basically prefer the soft version but have both. Hope this helps and have fun shopping. Maybe you can teach Marc how to use them in Scotland..
Dave
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I have to be honest I've hardly used them, I've tried a couple of times but after dropping them, getting finger prints on them and generally making a complete hash of it I've returned to bracketing and blending.
Having read Marc's comments above about his preference for bracketing I think I might continue down this route.
Charlie
Hi Marc,
I haven't read the whole thread just the last few pages so forgive me if this has already been asked: what do you think of the UWA lenses & do you use them much?
I know you use TS lenses but the 24 doesn't appeal to me as I just don't think the current version has the IQ to keep up with the forthcoming generation of sensors. The reason I ask is that Im toying with the idea of getting the 14mmk2
I have the 17-40 but find the corners too soft to my liking. I do wonder though whether the 14 is something that I would actually use enough to warrent the cost i.e. would it just be too wide?. I know only I can decide that but I would noneltheless be interested in exoerienced photographers like you giving me their input
...pics..