Lens Q?: 24-70L or Sigma 24-70 and Canon 100 Macro?

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  • jbakerphotojbakerphoto Registered Users Posts: 251 Major grins
    edited May 16, 2008
    ziggy53 wrote:
    Understand that the "scoop" modifier I use is not a bounce card. It actually works by lifting and spreading the light, similar to what you could do with a much taller flash bracket and perhaps a very small softbox. The scoop is so lightweight that it has little effect on the handling of the flash. Rather than fill, a scoop is the primary light source.

    You still need to apply good judgement regarding FEC and basic exposure settings as well as proper placement of the light, but that is also true for any flash modifier. The camera alone doesn't always work best in default settings.

    I tend to think of image processing software and post-processing as just part of the process of making good images.



    I guess I will get this figured out sooner or later.
    40D,Rebel XT,Tamron 17-50 2.8,Tamron 28-80 3.5-5.6, Canon 50 1.8, Sigma 70-200 2.8, Canon 580EX , Sunpack 383 w/ optical slave

    www.jonbakerphotography.com
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,067 moderator
    edited May 16, 2008
    unclejon wrote:
    Didnt see this one....Yea I am working on trying to get my 580 ex off camera. I bought a vivitar 283 for cheap 2 weeks ago (as the strobist says light is light) so that makes 2 and I am decideing if I should go the ebay trigger way or try to scrape together for some skyports .....Cant afford pocketwizards at this time ..Think i do want wireless though...Also would like to maybe get some umbrellas (at least one--lol). Is the strobist set up good at mpex or should I go a different route?

    Many Vivitar 283 flashes are "Not" safe to use on modern digital cameras. The problem is high trigger voltage on many of them, just so you are aware.

    I am not familiar with the "mpix setup" but it's not hard to make your own setup, depending on what else you might have.

    Shay has the basic details here:

    http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/1166287
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • jbakerphotojbakerphoto Registered Users Posts: 251 Major grins
    edited May 16, 2008
    ziggy53 wrote:
    Many Vivitar 283 flashes are "Not" safe to use on modern digital cameras. The problem is high trigger voltage on many of them, just so you are aware.

    I am not familiar with the "mpix setup" but it's not hard to make your own setup, depending on what else you might have.

    Shay has the basic details here:

    http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/1166287

    Nope I am not planning on useing the 283 on camera.....just off camera with some sort of trigger. I have a 580 ex for on camera....

    MPEX setup/strobist setup.....

    http://www.mpex.com/page.htm?PG=Strobist%20Kits
    40D,Rebel XT,Tamron 17-50 2.8,Tamron 28-80 3.5-5.6, Canon 50 1.8, Sigma 70-200 2.8, Canon 580EX , Sunpack 383 w/ optical slave

    www.jonbakerphotography.com
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,067 moderator
    edited May 16, 2008
    unclejon wrote:
    Nope I am not planning on useing the 283 on camera.....just off camera with some sort of trigger. I have a 580 ex for on camera....

    MPEX setup/strobist setup.....

    http://www.mpex.com/page.htm?PG=Strobist%20Kits

    While the contents of the kit look pretty good, I have no idea if it is a true value. Since the contents are listed it would probably be a good idea to look it all up and check the prices.

    I do suggest a 10-12 foot light stand, preferably with air-cushioned control. The extra height is handy if you ever need to work in a place where the subject(s) is (are) higher than you are, like a church chancel area. The higher stands also tend to have a more stable stance.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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