Ziggy - I like the Flashpoint lights from Adorama too. Their wedding kit with a pair of 620s work nicely for me, but that is beyond Marina's $300 limit.
The link I posted earlier was just to the home page, this link is to the page with the Strobist specific kits. You want the Starving Student Wireless kit - SW1 - $215. You can adda white shoot through umbrella for about another $26.
This is going to be about as cheap as you can find a true wireless flash set up with a light stand and an umbrella and gels to balance the light temperature as well.
would it be weird to have a white and a silver?
if so...and you were doing portrait photography...(sorry so generic)..
would the silver be the main light and the white be for highlighting the dark side?
-G
Here is how I set up three light headshots. These setups use one or two lights; the third light is always on a boom stand shot through a small gridded softbox as a hair, rim, or accent light.
Black Background:
Silver Umbrella for the main, reflector for fill. This gives me the best control of spill.
Dark Background:
Silver umbrella for main, white umbrella serves double duty as a filll light and a background light. I place the white fill umbrella just of center so the soft shadow falls behind the lit side of the face for a chiaroscuro effect.
Light Background:
White umbrella main, reflector fill. Second light goes on the backdrop through a small white umbrella.
Normally I pick which setup to use based on what the subject is wearing.
i'm in the same boat...i have no experience with photography but this past weekend, i took the plunge and purchesed a canon rebel xti and a few lenses...tripod, cf cards....
my long range goal is to be able to take decent portraits of my girlfriend and children. (and other friends, if they're down with it)
this will be hobby only and not used to supplement any income.
i'd also like to eventually take pictures of some of my completed work (i'm an architect and maybe one day i'll have a decent project to document).
but first things first...i need to learn about the camera and lighting.
my budget for lighting would be up to $1,000 or a little more.
If you are shooting inside and if you have a speedlite that you can set to manual, you can skip the transmitters. I have found that I can put my speedlite on manual, set the power to 1/128 (the lowest setting), point it away from the subject (bounce of off a wall) and this light is plenty to trigger the ABs (they have optical triggers when there isn't a pc cord plugged in). At this setting, the speedlite is easily 4 stops and usually 5 stops less than the light provided by the ABs - so no significant contribution to the exposure.
All this works inside. But, take then outside or in a space that is quite large and it won't work. The ABs need to be able to see the flash from your speedlight.
My head is spinning, now i'm reading pros and cons of different options:
Continues light vs. Flash
As a beginner, i want to consider continues light, i've read about "cool" lights which not supposed to get as hot as some other. What is your take on that? I found some "cool" light kits, which might be a better choice? http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/Categories?category=COOL+FLO
Well, after few days of thinking and comparing, i decided to go with continues, cool (fluorescent) lighting. It's a bit over my budget, but it would be much easier for me as a newbie. I appreciate everyone's input, advise and help on this subject.
Thanks again!! I'll try to order my stuff sometime soon.
Well, after few days of thinking and comparing, i decided to go with continues, cool (fluorescent) lighting. It's a bit over my budget, but it would be much easier for me as a newbie. I appreciate everyone's input, advise and help on this subject.
Thanks again!! I'll try to order my stuff sometime soon.
When you start shooting under the fluorescent lights, you might want to talk a look at some of the posts here discussing this. Because these lights are not actually continuous but cycle with the frequency of the power supply, you may get strange color shifts if your shutter speed isn't right. As US power cycles at a nominal 60hz, your shutter speed needs to be 1/120 or any multiple of 1/60 (1/30, 1/15, etc).
Cavet: there may be lights out there that do not exhibit this behavior, but common ones all do.
Well, after few days of thinking and comparing, i decided to go with continues, cool (fluorescent) lighting. It's a bit over my budget, but it would be much easier for me as a newbie. I appreciate everyone's input, advise and help on this subject.
Thanks again!! I'll try to order my stuff sometime soon.
The problem with continuous burning lights of any kind is that with people images, the subject's pupils will get fairly small and some people may even squint.
For product and still-life photography, they work pretty well (especially the really expensive ones with a high CRI (Color Rendering Index).
Understand also that fluorescent bulbs are not continuous spectrum light sources, so color balance and especially color fidelity may be problematic.
When you start shooting under the fluorescent lights, you might want to talk a look at some of the posts here discussing this. Because these lights are not actually continuous but cycle with the frequency of the power supply, you may get strange color shifts if your shutter speed isn't right. As US power cycles at a nominal 60hz, your shutter speed needs to be 1/120 or any multiple of 1/60 (1/30, 1/15, etc).
Cavet: there may be lights out there that do not exhibit this behavior, but common ones all do.
Actually that's a very good point. Since a full cycle is 60 hertz in the US (50 hertz in many other countries), you need to stay at 1/60th or slower. 1/125th would only catch 1/2 of the 60 hertz cycle and it could be either dark or light.
Fortunately, many modern electronic ballasts are much faster than 60 hertz, but still not too fast compared to a camera shutter.
Actually that's a very good point. Since a full cycle is 60 hertz in the US (50 hertz in many other countries), you need to stay at 1/60th or slower. 1/125th would only catch 1/2 of the 60 hertz cycle and it could be either dark or light.
Fortunately, many modern electronic ballasts are much faster than 60 hertz, but still not too fast compared to a camera shutter.
Actually, anything 1/120 or slower will work. You only need to capture the light from 1/2 of the full cycle, starting from anywhere in the cycle. This is because the rise time of the lamp is duplicated twice for each full cycle of power.
Ok guys, you're scaring me . I've read and read so much i can't think. I've seen a lot of good reviews on the web about cool lights. I really affraid to get flash/strobes at this point, it's gonna take me forever to figure them out. And i'm affraid to get "hot" lights" for variety of reasons. I guess i have to do more reading ....
Of all the lighting gear I own, the most used is a single 430EX and an ST-E2. They have a nearly permenant spot in my camera bag. The ST-E2 lets you use the in camera meter to set the exposure and power for the flash when it is off camera which is a remarkably powerful thing to be able to do. Assuming your body supports it, you can also use the Canon pseudo modelling light which makes it easier to position the flash (albeit I usually just chimp a test shot and adjust). With that setup, I can set up a mini portrait studio if I want to, but I can also dramatically improve my candids.
This shot, for instance, was just a candid at the dinner table with the 430EX bounced off the ceiling behind me but in a pinch I would happily use that same setup for shooting somewhat more formal portraits.
The 430EX + STE2 will probably blow your budget a bit, but it is relatively simple to use for a beginner and, if your experience is like mine, you will get a lot of milage out of it. I can usually find a table to set the flash on and a white wall or ceiling as a bounce surface, so even if I bring a stand and umbrella they often stay in the car.
I understand what you're saying, i'm not very knowledgable about flash. It's ok to "bounce" when you have white walls and low ceilings. I'm looking more into doing event photography with portable studio to bring on the set, or even portraits, and again it needs to be portable. I figured, continues light will be easy to figure out vs. dealing with flash/strobe sets. As i progress myself, i more likely to upgrade with better stuff which i can figure out. At this point, i need something easy to set, shoot and go
I can't even figure out my external flash , it really sucks. I tried "bouncing" it of everything, i think i did OK with it, but not so impressive
There isn't much difference between a white wall and an umbrella. I usually prefer the wall to the umbrella, but if the walls are painted or the room layout is awkward, out comes the umbrella and stand.
On advantage of a flash is you can easily overpower most ambient light if you want to. Using continuous lights in an environment you can't darken well is going to be very difficult. In particular, neither hot lamps nor cool lamps are likely to mix well with daylight. Strobes, on the other hand, often mix quite well with daylight so if shut off all the interior lighting you often use window light for fill.
i'm in the same boat as ShepsMom...sort of...with the confusion of lighting
anyway..over labor day weekend i bought a rebel xti and fell in love with pointing/clicking.
i also purchased some magazines and books:
digital camera world
digital photographer
digital photo pro
digital photography how-to guide
black & white magazine
portrait photographer's handbook
the photographer's guide to light
portrait photography secrets of posing & lighting
closeup shooting
I'm really excited to jump in and learn how to properly use my camera (other than the automatic settings) hehe
i've looked into workshops put on at local photography stores and galleries..etc.
and i know i'm not anywhere ready for it..but today i went down and got a begginers home studio lighting kit, the interFit EX150.
it has some 2 low wattage strobes , an umbrella, small soft box and 2 stands. i got a lighting instructional dvd there too.
i also got a light meter (havent used it..yet) it feels really plasticy and toy like
we went to 3 camera stores and could *not* find an infrared trigger or a pc hotshoe cable (is that the correct term?) so i used the speedlite 580EXII to trigger the strobes....
i figure i'll make a new thread about my first day with the lights and my trials/tribulations.
anyway...my goal is to eventually learn how to use my camera and take pics of my kids as they grow. (they're 12 and 13 now).
i have no time to make this more than a hobby..but i really do want to get better at it.
sorry for hi-jacking your thread...
but i figured i'd make a new one in the "whipping post" area to show my first attempt at using strobes...the begginer home studio set up.
ShepsMom...if you do have some $$$ and are ready to get lights...i would suggest just jumping in like i did...i don't feel i'm ready...but just like the camera...i figure i just have to give it a shot and learn as i go.
i'm already excited about the camera but plugging in these lights totally brought my excitement to another level
its like...your birthday x 10.
anyway....check out my thread (unless it gets moved by a mod to a more appropriate location).
thanks to all who posted in her original thread, it was all very helpful.
-G
There isn't much difference between a white wall and an umbrella. I usually prefer the wall to the umbrella, but if the walls are painted or the room layout is awkward, out comes the umbrella and stand.
On advantage of a flash is you can easily overpower most ambient light if you want to. Using continuous lights in an environment you can't darken well is going to be very difficult. In particular, neither hot lamps nor cool lamps are likely to mix well with daylight. Strobes, on the other hand, often mix quite well with daylight so if shut off all the interior lighting you often use window light for fill.
I read quiet the oposite about cool lights, where it stated then they are in perfect haromony with daylight. May be i'm missreading stuff. That was another reason to get cool lights. What the heck, i'll just try them out, wonder what the return policy is .
Congrats on your new toy Jaravis, must be really exciting!!
I read quiet the oposite about cool lights, where it stated then they are in perfect haromony with daylight. May be i'm missreading stuff. That was another reason to get cool lights. What the heck, i'll just try them out, wonder what the return policy is .
Daylight balanced flourescents do exist, but I have never used them. Aside from color balance, the other thing you want when mixing with ambient light is a brighness/power control on the lights. The better strobes have this and you can get extra control over the balance by dragging the shutter. Do the cool lights have some kind of power or brightness control? If so, over how may stops?
I found couple of sites that sell flo lights. I liked couple of the sets. Technically, i'm not as good as you might be. But i thought they were daylight balanced.
ShepsMom, You are getting good advice from people who are a lot more knowledgeable than I am, but since I was sorta in your shoes at one time, I thought I would throw out my thoughts on this subject. First, I know your having a hard time wrapping your head around the unknown scary strobe thing, but the realty is far, far less daunting. I rented some hot lights once for a product shoot. Two 750 watt tungsten hot lights with soft boxes. I had to use them at full power as close to the product as I could get them and still had very low shutter speeds of around 1/15, or 1/30, far to slow for people. The problem was inadequate light, and heat. Strobes solve both these issues. I am no expert on this, but my concern would be that the florescent cool lights you are looking at will not give you enough light to keep your shutter speeds up, and also the problem of ambient light mixing in. I had issues with the hot lights and ambient light, where as I don’t with my strobes. I was intimidated with the idea of strobes, but jumped in and bought a set of Alien Bees. When I received the boxes. I was afraid to open them. J But of course I did. Read the instructions, plugged everything in connected camera…………………held breath…………………………….pressed shutter button…………………………..holy*&^*&^(*&^ It works!!! While it would take years to become a master at lighting, it’s really pretty easy to learn to get a cook book set up for strobes that will work great for basic portraits, or products. I would encourage you ignore your fears, and think about the fact that almost every portrait photographer, and studio use strobes. There has to be a reason. Many here use strobes, there has to be a reason. Go with the heard on this one. After you get your strobes you will be writing in telling us how silly your fears were, and showing us your great results. Sam
Thank you Sam for your encouraging word. I know i'm a chicken when it comes to stuff like that . I'm still leaning towards continues lights, the light power should be sufficient enough for flo lights, if i get 2400w or more. Cool ligths are daylight balanced, and with all the reviews i read, they are much better then "hot" lights and plus, save energy. I will progress myself to strobes as time goes on.
I use Canon gear. For the Canon cameras to be able to fire a Canon speedlite wirelessly I would need either a transmitter or another 580EX flash.
However, I see that you are using Nikon gear. Lucky you. If I read the specs on your D80 correctly you can wirelessly fire up to two groups of lighting from your D80 without any other accessories. I am thinking that you can control and fire Nikon flash units that are equipped to be either master or slaves from your camera's built in wireless functionality. The upper end Nikon flash is probably beyond your $300 dollars, but I think that if I am correct in my assumtion about your cameras ability to do this then it would be the best, most portable option for you. There would also be zero worry about voltages etc. You could add a stand and umbrella later. I am pretty sure that you can use either the sb600 or sb800 units. Be sure if you go this route that the flash head tilts and rotates so that you can have that benifit when using it mounted to your hotshoe. I found a thread from another forum that may help. http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=24666358&q=wireless&qf=m
Hey Jeff, looks like you know more about my camera then i do . Where is that manual again
Ok, so i have an external flash, which i'm still learning and have no clue what i'm doing half the time. I'm technically stupid, so if you use some scientific terms, pardon my ignorence if i can't post an intellegent reply. With that said, i stop at Ritz camera yesterday, they only had strobes and guy had no clue how or what to do with them. We only have 2 places here Wolf/Ritz that i know of. May be i'm deathly affraid of strobe because i have no clue how they operate, connect, placed, whatever. May be i make another trip to Wolf camera, bring my camera and let them show me "how to" right there and then!
What do you think?
Actually I just price grabbed the SB800 and it is about a hundred bucks cheaper than it's Canon counterpart which puts it at $30 over your budget.
I think all would agree that wireless capability AND a flagship class flash at $330 is a bargain and definately a great point from which to build an ultra portable solution.
Hey Jeff, looks like you know more about my camera then i do . Where is that manual again
Ok, so i have an external flash, which i'm still learning and have no clue what i'm doing half the time. I'm technically stupid, so if you use some scientific terms, pardon my ignorence if i can't post an intellegent reply. With that said, i stop at Ritz camera yesterday, they only had strobes and guy had no clue how or what to do with them. We only have 2 places here Wolf/Ritz that i know of. May be i'm deathly affraid of strobe because i have no clue how they operate, connect, placed, whatever. May be i make another trip to Wolf camera, bring my camera and let them show me "how to" right there and then!
What do you think?
Which external flash do you have. Only the SB600 and SB800 will work wirelessly.
I have been able to get that much info, but since I do not have the manuals, I won't be much help in how to set the camera or flash up to make it work. The folks at our local Rits in Baton Rouge are fairly clueless, but you may have more luck there than with me here!!!
You may want to ask around in the Nikon Forum on DPReview There is a forum for the D80 there.
So if i have flash, all i will need is one strobe umbrella and soft box?
I probably need to stop asking stupid questions.....
:dgrin
Hey Marina,
I'll have a gear breakdown tutorial posted in two days if you can hold out that long.
I'll explore the cheap and expensive sides of speedlight strobe lighting. All based on Nikon gear
Type of gear won't matter in this tut though. This is just going to show you the how's and what's of basic strobe lighting in both wired and wireless setups. (wireless using pocket wizards, not the wireless mode on your D80 which is really nice BTW)
I'm breaking my gear out tonight to get all the shots of it. Doing the write up tomorrow.
I think all would agree that wireless capability AND a flagship class flash at $330 is a bargain and definately a great point from which to build an ultra portable solution.
NOTE:
You are using IR technology so line of sight is critical to fire strobes though. THis isn't a bad thing, just something to consider.
Thank you, i'm sure looking forward to your tuturial. I hope i will understand what is says
Scott, thank you for your input,
Light stand for each flash unit that is off-camera.
Bracket to which you attach/mount your umbrella or softbox
Doesn't it comes with the Kit?? "Which external flash do you have. Only the SB600 and SB800 will work wirelessly."
Jeff, i have Digital Concept 952AF/NIK, whatever that means. I really know nothing about it, it was pretty much given to me brand new. I wanted to by 600 or 800 one, but since i got this for free, what the heck. I wasn't able to find any info on this particular flash :cry
Light stand for each flash unit that is off-camera.
Bracket to which you attach/mount your umbrella or softbox
The wireless part is already handled for you by your camera.
Yeah, what he said!!
Also, If it works like Canon, line of sight is needed, but should be a non issue if you use it the way you said you would. Group shots and on location studio set up.....the unit(s) probably won't ever be more than 15 feet away from your camera.
I just bought a 580EX flash for my camera. I wish Canon had thought to include this option in camera. I will have to spend $180....on top of the $400 for the flash to let me do exactly what you will be able to do.
You also will need to read up on high speed sync for daylight situations....fill flash.
Good luck, and let us know how it all works out for you.
Comments
Marina - try this link - http://mpex.com/Strobist/
The link I posted earlier was just to the home page, this link is to the page with the Strobist specific kits. You want the Starving Student Wireless kit - SW1 - $215. You can adda white shoot through umbrella for about another $26.
This is going to be about as cheap as you can find a true wireless flash set up with a light stand and an umbrella and gels to balance the light temperature as well.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Here is how I set up three light headshots. These setups use one or two lights; the third light is always on a boom stand shot through a small gridded softbox as a hair, rim, or accent light.
Black Background:
Silver Umbrella for the main, reflector for fill. This gives me the best control of spill.
Dark Background:
Silver umbrella for main, white umbrella serves double duty as a filll light and a background light. I place the white fill umbrella just of center so the soft shadow falls behind the lit side of the face for a chiaroscuro effect.
Light Background:
White umbrella main, reflector fill. Second light goes on the backdrop through a small white umbrella.
Normally I pick which setup to use based on what the subject is wearing.
If you are shooting inside and if you have a speedlite that you can set to manual, you can skip the transmitters. I have found that I can put my speedlite on manual, set the power to 1/128 (the lowest setting), point it away from the subject (bounce of off a wall) and this light is plenty to trigger the ABs (they have optical triggers when there isn't a pc cord plugged in). At this setting, the speedlite is easily 4 stops and usually 5 stops less than the light provided by the ABs - so no significant contribution to the exposure.
All this works inside. But, take then outside or in a space that is quite large and it won't work. The ABs need to be able to see the flash from your speedlight.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
Continues light vs. Flash
As a beginner, i want to consider continues light, i've read about "cool" lights which not supposed to get as hot as some other. What is your take on that? I found some "cool" light kits, which might be a better choice?
http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/Categories?category=COOL+FLO
Thanks again for all your help guys
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Thanks again!! I'll try to order my stuff sometime soon.
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Cavet: there may be lights out there that do not exhibit this behavior, but common ones all do.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
The problem with continuous burning lights of any kind is that with people images, the subject's pupils will get fairly small and some people may even squint.
For product and still-life photography, they work pretty well (especially the really expensive ones with a high CRI (Color Rendering Index).
Understand also that fluorescent bulbs are not continuous spectrum light sources, so color balance and especially color fidelity may be problematic.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Actually that's a very good point. Since a full cycle is 60 hertz in the US (50 hertz in many other countries), you need to stay at 1/60th or slower. 1/125th would only catch 1/2 of the 60 hertz cycle and it could be either dark or light.
Fortunately, many modern electronic ballasts are much faster than 60 hertz, but still not too fast compared to a camera shutter.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
This shot, for instance, was just a candid at the dinner table with the 430EX bounced off the ceiling behind me but in a pinch I would happily use that same setup for shooting somewhat more formal portraits.
The 430EX + STE2 will probably blow your budget a bit, but it is relatively simple to use for a beginner and, if your experience is like mine, you will get a lot of milage out of it. I can usually find a table to set the flash on and a white wall or ceiling as a bounce surface, so even if I bring a stand and umbrella they often stay in the car.
I can't even figure out my external flash
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
On advantage of a flash is you can easily overpower most ambient light if you want to. Using continuous lights in an environment you can't darken well is going to be very difficult. In particular, neither hot lamps nor cool lamps are likely to mix well with daylight. Strobes, on the other hand, often mix quite well with daylight so if shut off all the interior lighting you often use window light for fill.
I DID IT!!!!
i'm in the same boat as ShepsMom...sort of...with the confusion of lighting
anyway..over labor day weekend i bought a rebel xti and fell in love with pointing/clicking.
i also purchased some magazines and books:
- digital camera world
- digital photographer
- digital photo pro
- digital photography how-to guide
- black & white magazine
- portrait photographer's handbook
- the photographer's guide to light
- portrait photography secrets of posing & lighting
- closeup shooting
I'm really excited to jump in and learn how to properly use my camera (other than the automatic settings) hehei've looked into workshops put on at local photography stores and galleries..etc.
and i know i'm not anywhere ready for it..but today i went down and got a begginers home studio lighting kit, the interFit EX150.
it has some 2 low wattage strobes
i also got a light meter (havent used it..yet) it feels really plasticy and toy like
we went to 3 camera stores and could *not* find an infrared trigger or a pc hotshoe cable (is that the correct term?) so i used the speedlite 580EXII to trigger the strobes....
i figure i'll make a new thread about my first day with the lights and my trials/tribulations.
anyway...my goal is to eventually learn how to use my camera and take pics of my kids as they grow. (they're 12 and 13 now).
i have no time to make this more than a hobby..but i really do want to get better at it.
more later...
-G
canon rebel XTi
18-55mm lens
60mm macro lens
75-300mm telephoto lens
canon speelite 580 EXII
but i figured i'd make a new one in the "whipping post" area to show my first attempt at using strobes...the begginer home studio set up.
http://www.digitalgrin.com/showthread.php?t=70726
ShepsMom...if you do have some $$$ and are ready to get lights...i would suggest just jumping in like i did...i don't feel i'm ready...but just like the camera...i figure i just have to give it a shot and learn as i go.
i'm already excited about the camera but plugging in these lights totally brought my excitement to another level
its like...your birthday x 10.
anyway....check out my thread (unless it gets moved by a mod to a more appropriate location).
thanks to all who posted in her original thread, it was all very helpful.
-G
canon rebel XTi
18-55mm lens
60mm macro lens
75-300mm telephoto lens
canon speelite 580 EXII
Congrats on your new toy Jaravis, must be really exciting!!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Daylight balanced flourescents do exist, but I have never used them. Aside from color balance, the other thing you want when mixing with ambient light is a brighness/power control on the lights. The better strobes have this and you can get extra control over the balance by dragging the shutter. Do the cool lights have some kind of power or brightness control? If so, over how may stops?
This site sells kits, and they let you customize to what you want in your set:
http://www.imagewest.tv/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=37
And here is another one with flo lights as well.
http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/Categories?category=COOL+FLO
I would love to hear your opinion on these.
Thanks so much!!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
You are getting good advice from people who are a lot more knowledgeable than I am, but since I was sorta in your shoes at one time, I thought I would throw out my thoughts on this subject.
First, I know your having a hard time wrapping your head around the unknown scary strobe thing, but the realty is far, far less daunting.
I rented some hot lights once for a product shoot. Two 750 watt tungsten hot lights with soft boxes. I had to use them at full power as close to the product as I could get them and still had very low shutter speeds of around 1/15, or 1/30, far to slow for people.
The problem was inadequate light, and heat. Strobes solve both these issues.
I am no expert on this, but my concern would be that the florescent cool lights you are looking at will not give you enough light to keep your shutter speeds up, and also the problem of ambient light mixing in. I had issues with the hot lights and ambient light, where as I don’t with my strobes.
I was intimidated with the idea of strobes, but jumped in and bought a set of Alien Bees. When I received the boxes. I was afraid to open them. J But of course I did. Read the instructions, plugged everything in connected camera…………………held breath…………………………….pressed shutter button…………………………..holy*&^*&^(*&^
It works!!!
While it would take years to become a master at lighting, it’s really pretty easy to learn to get a cook book set up for strobes that will work great for basic portraits, or products.
I would encourage you ignore your fears, and think about the fact that almost every portrait photographer, and studio use strobes. There has to be a reason. Many here use strobes, there has to be a reason.
Go with the heard on this one. After you get your strobes you will be writing in telling us how silly your fears were, and showing us your great results.
Sam
Thanks again!!
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Marina,
I use Canon gear. For the Canon cameras to be able to fire a Canon speedlite wirelessly I would need either a transmitter or another 580EX flash.
However, I see that you are using Nikon gear. Lucky you. If I read the specs on your D80 correctly you can wirelessly fire up to two groups of lighting from your D80 without any other accessories. I am thinking that you can control and fire Nikon flash units that are equipped to be either master or slaves from your camera's built in wireless functionality. The upper end Nikon flash is probably beyond your $300 dollars, but I think that if I am correct in my assumtion about your cameras ability to do this then it would be the best, most portable option for you. There would also be zero worry about voltages etc. You could add a stand and umbrella later. I am pretty sure that you can use either the sb600 or sb800 units. Be sure if you go this route that the flash head tilts and rotates so that you can have that benifit when using it mounted to your hotshoe. I found a thread from another forum that may help.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=24666358&q=wireless&qf=m
http://http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=24666358&q=wireless&qf=m
I hope this helps. I agree that getting one flash and learning how to get the most from it would be most benificial.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
Ok, so i have an external flash, which i'm still learning and have no clue what i'm doing half the time. I'm technically stupid, so if you use some scientific terms, pardon my ignorence if i can't post an intellegent reply. With that said, i stop at Ritz camera yesterday, they only had strobes and guy had no clue how or what to do with them. We only have 2 places here Wolf/Ritz that i know of. May be i'm deathly affraid of strobe because i have no clue how they operate, connect, placed, whatever. May be i make another trip to Wolf camera, bring my camera and let them show me "how to" right there and then!
What do you think?
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Actually I just price grabbed the SB800 and it is about a hundred bucks cheaper than it's Canon counterpart which puts it at $30 over your budget.
I think all would agree that wireless capability AND a flagship class flash at $330 is a bargain and definately a great point from which to build an ultra portable solution.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
I probably need to stop asking stupid questions.....
:dgrin
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
- Light stand for each flash unit that is off-camera.
- Bracket to which you attach/mount your umbrella or softbox
The wireless part is already handled for you by your camera.My Photos
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Which external flash do you have. Only the SB600 and SB800 will work wirelessly.
I have been able to get that much info, but since I do not have the manuals, I won't be much help in how to set the camera or flash up to make it work. The folks at our local Rits in Baton Rouge are fairly clueless, but you may have more luck there than with me here!!!
You may want to ask around in the Nikon Forum on DPReview There is a forum for the D80 there.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
I'll have a gear breakdown tutorial posted in two days if you can hold out that long.
I'll explore the cheap and expensive sides of speedlight strobe lighting. All based on Nikon gear
Type of gear won't matter in this tut though. This is just going to show you the how's and what's of basic strobe lighting in both wired and wireless setups. (wireless using pocket wizards, not the wireless mode on your D80 which is really nice BTW)
I'm breaking my gear out tonight to get all the shots of it. Doing the write up tomorrow.
-Jon
NOTE:
You are using IR technology so line of sight is critical to fire strobes though. THis isn't a bad thing, just something to consider.
Scott, thank you for your input,
- Light stand for each flash unit that is off-camera.
- Bracket to which you attach/mount your umbrella or softbox
Doesn't it comes with the Kit??"Which external flash do you have. Only the SB600 and SB800 will work wirelessly."
Jeff, i have Digital Concept 952AF/NIK, whatever that means. I really know nothing about it, it was pretty much given to me brand new. I wanted to by 600 or 800 one, but since i got this for free, what the heck. I wasn't able to find any info on this particular flash :cry
www.intruecolors.com
Nikon D700 x2/D300
Nikon 70-200 2.8/50 1.8/85 1.8/14.24 2.8
Yeah, what he said!!
Also, If it works like Canon, line of sight is needed, but should be a non issue if you use it the way you said you would. Group shots and on location studio set up.....the unit(s) probably won't ever be more than 15 feet away from your camera.
I just bought a 580EX flash for my camera. I wish Canon had thought to include this option in camera. I will have to spend $180....on top of the $400 for the flash to let me do exactly what you will be able to do.
You also will need to read up on high speed sync for daylight situations....fill flash.
Good luck, and let us know how it all works out for you.
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture