Yeah, that came to mind after I posted but I wasn't sure since he also had a bavarian autosport decal under the spoiler...and the toyo tires in the window? I just don't get it.
I don't know about the Toyo tires, maybe he was sponsored?
All right you car talkers. I have an issue that I need some help with.
After washing the car, I noticed that it's covered in paint over-spray. There
is not one place that isn't. Since I don't drive it everyday, I can't tell where
it came from or more importantly, what the paint is. Needless to say, I am
more than a little pissed off.
My thoughts are to wash it again and clay it. I'm pretty sure that will
get the stuff off...I hope. But I was wondering if there's a better way before
I completely ruin the paint.
Ideas?
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
Are you sure it's overspray and not sap? In any event, overspray is the only time I'm ever comfortable with clay, but if it is overspray you don't really have a choice.
Are you sure it's overspray and not sap? In any event, overspray is the only time I'm ever comfortable with clay, but if it is overspray you don't really have a choice.
Pretty sure. Droplets are uniform and there's lots of 'em.
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
All right you car talkers. I have an issue that I need some help with.
After washing the car, I noticed that it's covered in paint over-spray. There
is not one place that isn't. Since I don't drive it everyday, I can't tell where
it came from or more importantly, what the paint is. Needless to say, I am
more than a little pissed off.
My thoughts are to wash it again and clay it. I'm pretty sure that will
get the stuff off...I hope. But I was wondering if there's a better way before
I completely ruin the paint.
Ideas?
I might be wrong here but thats a new car isnt it ? Worth a tad more than a worn out 14 year old pimp mobile BMW. Me ? ..i would be taking it to local rep car paint shop.
To take a car to a body shop just to have them clay either means you've got money to burn or your time is worth a LOT of money to you. You're better off doing it yourself, and claying is really no big deal. Just make sure you are using the fine cut clay (the stuff that's sold as if you should use it every time before you wax your car, it's pretty much all the same, even the Mothers stuff sold at Pep Boys is decent clay...you don't want to be using the heavy cut stuff that you can get from bodyshop suppliers) and use plenty of lubricant with it (lubricant comes with it) and be sure to roll it frequently (i.e. follow the instructions since this is basically what they say). It might take a bit of time, but it should take care of it.
Also, vehicle worth has nothing to do with what kind of stuff you take your car to a body shop for, the quality of the paint job is. A 14 year old car can have a much better paint job than a new car (and FWIW, in my experience, a good body shop does a better paint job and is willing to spend more money, admittedly your money, on clear coat than even MB does at the factory).
Actually, I'd be more worried about messing up the paint on a 14 year old car, especially a 14 year old BMW since that likely has the old toxic Glasurit, not the new EPA mandated water based junk.
To take a car to a body shop just to have them clay either means you've got money to burn or your time is worth a LOT of money to you. You're better off doing it yourself, and claying is really no big deal. Just make sure you are using the fine cut clay (the stuff that's sold as if you should use it every time before you wax your car, it's pretty much all the same, even the Mothers stuff sold at Pep Boys is decent clay...you don't want to be using the heavy cut stuff that you can get from bodyshop suppliers) and use plenty of lubricant with it (lubricant comes with it) and be sure to roll it frequently (i.e. follow the instructions since this is basically what they say). It might take a bit of time, but it should take care of it.
Also, vehicle worth has nothing to do with what kind of stuff you take your car to a body shop for, the quality of the paint job is. A 14 year old car can have a much better paint job than a new car (and FWIW, in my experience, a good body shop does a better paint job and is willing to spend more money, admittedly your money, on clear coat than even MB does at the factory).
Actually, I'd be more worried about messing up the paint on a 14 year old car, especially a 14 year old BMW since that likely has the old toxic Glasurit, not the new EPA mandated water based junk.
...i would still take it to a shop that knows what they are doing.
I might be wrong here but thats a new car isnt it ? Worth a tad more than a worn out 14 year old pimp mobile BMW. Me ? ..i would be taking it to local rep car paint shop.
It is new. And what I'm trying to figure are two things. One, what is the
proper way to get this sh-tuff off and two, how long will it take--because
my time is worth something. If it were clay and a two hour job, I'd do it. But
if it's going to take all day, I'll let someone else do it.
I'm guessing it will be $150-$200 to have someone do it?
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
It is new. And what I'm trying to figure are two things. One, what is the
proper way to get this sh-tuff off and two, how long will it take--because
my time is worth something. If it were clay and a two hour job, I'd do it. But
if it's going to take all day, I'll let someone else do it.
I'm guessing it will be $150-$200 to have someone do it?
No idea...i would just photgraph the offending over spray (if you can) & maybe get a few quotes. Seriously you dont know how it got there so you dont know what it is ..2 pack or enamel etc etc. As i said...i wouldnt fool with a newish dark car. I have a 2 year old silver car & you cant see anything on that scratch wise & i bet its covered in them.
I'm guessing it will be $150-$200 to have someone do it?
To have someone do the entire car? It might be as much as $300, definitley no more. If they are saying that want to wet sand it, I would move on, because from the sounds of it that would be much more aggressive than necessary. And I would say it wouldn't be a whole day but more than a couple hours because after you clay a car you have to wax it.
To have someone do the entire car? It might be as much as $300, definitley no more. If they are saying that want to wet sand it, I would move on, because from the sounds of it that would be much more aggressive than necessary. And I would say it wouldn't be a whole day but more than a couple hours because after you clay a car you have to wax it.
I'll clay a small part of it and see what happens.
Let you know what happens
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
I want to try this clay bar thing too. Does it bring back some of the luster in the paint? Does it take out minor scratches and swirls?
For $20 you can find out too I just bought a kit from Manny, Moe and
Jack...I know people that have clayed a car with some oxidation and had
very good results. I don't know how well it would work on a color like red
though.
Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
I want to try this clay bar thing too. Does it bring back some of the luster in the paint? Does it take out minor scratches and swirls?
Some will tell you yes. What clay is really for is removing overspray...that's what they were originally for, and what they still should be for but they get marketed as something to use all the time. Clay is good for taking things off your paint, and in the process it does take a small amount of clear off your paint. A very small amount, but I like to use the least aggressive thing possible.
If you've just got swirls buy some 3M imperial hand glaze then follow with a good wax. If you've got scratches you need something more agressive. Maybe the 3M swirl mark remover or even some rubbing compound. Then you follow those with imperial hand glaze, and then follow that with a wax. If you don't have scratches or swirls and just want to bring back luster (or keep luster in paint that's still good) use P21S gloss enhancing paintwork cleanser. It has no abrasives in it so it won't get rid of scratches, but it does have oils and cleaners in it that will restore/maintain luster. Restoring won't happen one time, you have to do it every few days for a couple weeks (and you have to follow it with a wax each time). Maintaining is easier, you just do it before each wax if parked outdoors or once a year if parked inside.
Marlinspike...what about some kero on a rag ? People say its a very very fine cutter Its great at pulling tar & bugs off.
I've heard that for tar, though never tried it. I've also heard alcohol (not the drinking kind) but never tried it. WD40 will do it, but I recommend you don't use that. I don't know if any of those would work on overspray though.
I've heard that for tar, though never tried it. I've also heard alcohol (not the drinking kind) but never tried it. WD40 will do it, but I recommend you don't use that. I don't know if any of those would work on overspray though.
We have had products here for ages that are simply called 'tar & bug removers' they are just car polish & kero mixed. Never hurts paint that ive seen in 20 odd years. Our roads here melt real bad in summer...the tar sticks to everything including your shoes big time. That stuff takes tar off immediately.
We have had products here for ages that are simply called 'tar & bug removers'
Yeah, we got those too, but something I learned the hard way (Meguiar's wheel cleaner) is that there's a lot of stuff being sold out there that is worse than nothing (later found out they had lost a class action lawsuit against them because their wheel cleaner stripped the paint off wheels, and that they were still selling the same formula). I'm not saying this is the case with those products or even straight kerosene, I'm just saying that's why I'm reluctant to recommend anything I've never tried.
They are breedin' em weak these days...here...hit her with this. i recon it will move the overspray.
They actually are breeding them weak these days thanks to all the enviro regs. At least you aussies get to use R290 propane based refrigerant in your air conditioners. Here we have to use R134...it costs more, it's worse for the environment, and it doesn't cool as well! But since Dupont was able to give some lawmakers some stuff they could put in a press release saying how it's better than R12 (which is debateable, it's really just harms the environment in a different way...and it doesn't cool as well) and has lots of money to donate to campaigns, it's what we have to use.
They actually are breeding them weak these days thanks to all the enviro regs. At least you aussies get to use R290 propane based refrigerant in your air conditioners. Here we have to use R134...it costs more, it's worse for the environment, and it doesn't cool as well!
Didnt know that. Yep air-cond in cars here is excellent...has to be. I even use it in the truck during winter.
Didnt know that. Yep air-cond in cars here is excellent...has to be. I even use it in the truck during winter.
Well, I guess I wasn't totally fair. It isn't simply Dupont/Congress corruption, but also mass stupidity. Part of it is that R290, propane, of course is flammable right? Well, only when it's exposed to oxygen within a certain ration (IIRC between 2% and 10% propane), and of course the air con system is sealed so that won't be blowing up on its own, and if it leaks the environment is so large that instantly the propane concentration drops to a negligible amount...but try telling people it's ok to have something containing propane in your engine bay.
Heh, I like that the 2002 is the original sports sedan...I guess maybe that's how it was intended, but looking at the specs even the ultra rare m2002 was pretty slow. I guess they handle nicely considering the time though.
Heh, I like that the 2002 is the original sports sedan...I guess maybe that's how it was intended, but looking at the specs even the ultra rare m2002 was pretty slow. I guess they handle nicely considering the time though.
No such thing as an m2002.
Variants of the 2002 were:
2002 4 spd (80hp)
2002 auto
2002tii (fuel injected to 100hp)
2002 turbo (well over 190hp which is fast for that light car)
Variants of the 2002 were:
2002 4 spd (80hp)
2002 auto
2002tii (fuel injected to 100hp)
2002 turbo (well over 190hp which is fast for that light car)
Maybe it's the turbo I'm thinking of, but I'm pretty sure I once read a write up on an M 2002 that was the first M car and never saw US shores (and only saw a handful of sales) because it was offered right smack dab in the middle of the 1973 oil crisis.
googled the turbo, yup thats the one i was thinking of, it was the coloration of the stripes that made me think M.
Comments
After washing the car, I noticed that it's covered in paint over-spray. There
is not one place that isn't. Since I don't drive it everyday, I can't tell where
it came from or more importantly, what the paint is. Needless to say, I am
more than a little pissed off.
My thoughts are to wash it again and clay it. I'm pretty sure that will
get the stuff off...I hope. But I was wondering if there's a better way before
I completely ruin the paint.
Ideas?
Pretty sure. Droplets are uniform and there's lots of 'em.
I might be wrong here but thats a new car isnt it ? Worth a tad more than a worn out 14 year old pimp mobile BMW. Me ? ..i would be taking it to local rep car paint shop.
Also, vehicle worth has nothing to do with what kind of stuff you take your car to a body shop for, the quality of the paint job is. A 14 year old car can have a much better paint job than a new car (and FWIW, in my experience, a good body shop does a better paint job and is willing to spend more money, admittedly your money, on clear coat than even MB does at the factory).
Actually, I'd be more worried about messing up the paint on a 14 year old car, especially a 14 year old BMW since that likely has the old toxic Glasurit, not the new EPA mandated water based junk.
...i would still take it to a shop that knows what they are doing.
It is new. And what I'm trying to figure are two things. One, what is the
proper way to get this sh-tuff off and two, how long will it take--because
my time is worth something. If it were clay and a two hour job, I'd do it. But
if it's going to take all day, I'll let someone else do it.
I'm guessing it will be $150-$200 to have someone do it?
I'll clay a small part of it and see what happens.
Let you know what happens
For $20 you can find out too I just bought a kit from Manny, Moe and
Jack...I know people that have clayed a car with some oxidation and had
very good results. I don't know how well it would work on a color like red
though.
Some will tell you yes. What clay is really for is removing overspray...that's what they were originally for, and what they still should be for but they get marketed as something to use all the time. Clay is good for taking things off your paint, and in the process it does take a small amount of clear off your paint. A very small amount, but I like to use the least aggressive thing possible.
If you've just got swirls buy some 3M imperial hand glaze then follow with a good wax. If you've got scratches you need something more agressive. Maybe the 3M swirl mark remover or even some rubbing compound. Then you follow those with imperial hand glaze, and then follow that with a wax. If you don't have scratches or swirls and just want to bring back luster (or keep luster in paint that's still good) use P21S gloss enhancing paintwork cleanser. It has no abrasives in it so it won't get rid of scratches, but it does have oils and cleaners in it that will restore/maintain luster. Restoring won't happen one time, you have to do it every few days for a couple weeks (and you have to follow it with a wax each time). Maintaining is easier, you just do it before each wax if parked outdoors or once a year if parked inside.
I've heard that for tar, though never tried it. I've also heard alcohol (not the drinking kind) but never tried it. WD40 will do it, but I recommend you don't use that. I don't know if any of those would work on overspray though.
We have had products here for ages that are simply called 'tar & bug removers' they are just car polish & kero mixed. Never hurts paint that ive seen in 20 odd years. Our roads here melt real bad in summer...the tar sticks to everything including your shoes big time. That stuff takes tar off immediately.
Just a thought. Back to normal viewing.
Yeah, we got those too, but something I learned the hard way (Meguiar's wheel cleaner) is that there's a lot of stuff being sold out there that is worse than nothing (later found out they had lost a class action lawsuit against them because their wheel cleaner stripped the paint off wheels, and that they were still selling the same formula). I'm not saying this is the case with those products or even straight kerosene, I'm just saying that's why I'm reluctant to recommend anything I've never tried.
the paint. I'm guessing they do more harm than good.
They are breedin' em weak these days...here...hit her with this. i recon it will move the overspray.
They actually are breeding them weak these days thanks to all the enviro regs. At least you aussies get to use R290 propane based refrigerant in your air conditioners. Here we have to use R134...it costs more, it's worse for the environment, and it doesn't cool as well! But since Dupont was able to give some lawmakers some stuff they could put in a press release saying how it's better than R12 (which is debateable, it's really just harms the environment in a different way...and it doesn't cool as well) and has lots of money to donate to campaigns, it's what we have to use.
Didnt know that. Yep air-cond in cars here is excellent...has to be. I even use it in the truck during winter.
Well, I guess I wasn't totally fair. It isn't simply Dupont/Congress corruption, but also mass stupidity. Part of it is that R290, propane, of course is flammable right? Well, only when it's exposed to oxygen within a certain ration (IIRC between 2% and 10% propane), and of course the air con system is sealed so that won't be blowing up on its own, and if it leaks the environment is so large that instantly the propane concentration drops to a negligible amount...but try telling people it's ok to have something containing propane in your engine bay.
I guess you shouldn't park in the grass when they're cuttin' the weeds
http://www.bmw.com.au/common_content...age/index.html
http://youtube.com/watch?v=C86SNhNhhXI&search=BMW%20Commercial
How many people are as knowledgeable as us in here?
moderator of: The Flea Market [ guidelines ]
Don't get me started on the current state of the american publics IQ.
www.zxstudios.com
http://creativedragonstudios.smugmug.com
Heh, I like that the 2002 is the original sports sedan...I guess maybe that's how it was intended, but looking at the specs even the ultra rare m2002 was pretty slow. I guess they handle nicely considering the time though.
Variants of the 2002 were:
2002 4 spd (80hp)
2002 auto
2002tii (fuel injected to 100hp)
2002 turbo (well over 190hp which is fast for that light car)
googled the turbo, yup thats the one i was thinking of, it was the coloration of the stripes that made me think M.